It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
My land teaches me how to farm
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
My land teaches me how to farm
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It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
Visit Redhawk's soil series: https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil
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I am definitely expecting it to shrink down, but I am going to stay optimistic and hope that most of that happens over the winterJay Angler wrote:That sounds good Logan! I will mention with kitchen scraps, just as how your compost "shrinks" a lot while decomposing, the same will happen with the contents of your barrel. I just topped up a raised bed I made last year, which had sunk 6 to 8 inches out of 26 inches from decomposition and settling.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
I expect it will happen gradually - if anything, composts are more active in the warmer months. This is not a bad thing - you're building healthy soil. I don't know what you're planning to plant in it, but I would plant something like a tomato that will grow and tumble over the edge and if its base is lower than the barrel edge, it won't be so shaded it won't grow. Similarly some medium height beans. In fact, most plants will grow towards the light, it's just that something like butter lettuce may be encouraged to bolt if it has to grow tall rather than wide.I am definitely expecting it to shrink down, but I am going to stay optimistic and hope that most of that happens over the winter
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It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
I am finding more and more, that many "weeds" rather than competing with your desired plants, actually support and shade the soil, so like Fukuoka does, I'm much more inclined to only weed stuff that *really* invades (that would be creeping buttercup in my ecosytem) and I'm even known to transplant dandelions! Many more "weeds" are edible than I used to know, and some that aren't edible are still medicinal in small quantities. That said, in a small space, there are times when snipping plants off at the ground, or a little higher up so you knock them back but not kill them, to give other plants more space is a good thing.I suspect that there are some weeds mixed in there, but given how many different flower varieties I planted, I have no idea what is a weed or what isn't.
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I will definitely be doing that over the following winter! I wasn't expecting to have a dedicated garden area (outside of the few potted plants I have around here) but if I had known ahead of time, I would have at least 12 barrels here full of logs and food scraps ready over the winter. The amount of settlement in the first barrel was my fault - when I placed the raked up lawn debris (leaves, dead plants, small twigs, etc) under the soil, I did not pack them down, so the rain-heavy soil quickly did that for me and sunk things down.Jay Angler wrote:Your plants look happy, but I can see in the photo how much the first barrel settled. In a perfect world, I'd suggest you build new barrels early fall, and plant anything that might overwinter or at least survive part of the winter (like those Austrian Winter Peas!) and then plan on having some fresh compost for topping up in the spring before planting.
Do you know if it would be fine to add scraps and plant material directly over the winter instead of adding compost? I was thinking that I could either shallowly dig them in, or place them on top / under the winter's mulch. At the moment, a traditional compost pile is not an option (due to the landowners) and something like a tumbler is more expense than I am willing to spend at the moment.Jay Angler wrote:At least one old book I read recommended that every bed should get two inches of fresh compost every year if you're cropping it heavily. It is amazing how much compost it would take for even a small number of beds! Doing some chop and dropping and mulching would reduce that need I expect, because both support the microbes that you need for healthy soil.
I agree! I am not sure what types of weeds are good or bad here due to a lack of experience, so I am erring on the side of caution and leaving some that I like the look of. The bottom left and upper right of the first barrel's photo has some wild lambsquarters that seems to be doing well. The only ones that I know are an issue here are the grass (which spreads fast and makes it hard to plant) and the wild carrots (which grow tall and wide, with a tendency to outshade the plants I want).Jay Angler wrote:I am finding more and more, that many "weeds" rather than competing with your desired plants, actually support and shade the soil, so like Fukuoka does, I'm much more inclined to only weed stuff that *really* invades (that would be creeping buttercup in my ecosytem) and I'm even known to transplant dandelions! Many more "weeds" are edible than I used to know, and some that aren't edible are still medicinal in small quantities. That said, in a small space, there are times when snipping plants off at the ground, or a little higher up so you knock them back but not kill them, to give other plants more space is a good thing.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
I would put it under the mulch and I would consider putting bags of leaves around the barrel as insulation if you can get away with that with the land-owner, and possible clear plastic over the top, so that at least on warm sunny days, the dirt in the barrel would get warm enough for some decomposition to take place. The trick will be to keep the quantities fairly small, and if it's mostly veggie scraps, you may have to add something dry mixed in, like chopped cardboard. The issue will be the tendency for it to wait until spring to suddenly shrink down, and you'll find the soil level dropping after you seed, but so long as it doesn't drop so much that the plants don't get light, is that really a problem?Do you know if it would be fine to add scraps and plant material directly over the winter instead of adding compost? I was thinking that I could either shallowly dig them in, or place them on top / under the winter's mulch.
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I currently have a fourth barrel that I've been throwing greens and browns into, although it has a bit of a fly problem at the moment due to putting too much meat in.William Bronson wrote:Maybe set aside new barrel for "active" composting ,a mix of greens and browns, and heavily mulch the established drums.
I don't think I would be able to put bags of leaves, unfortunately - but I think I could pack snow around it to keep the heat in. A drop in soil level won't be too bad, I can always add some more in the spring, and I think that they would get enough light even if the soil level drops a bit. Since the soil level has already dropped in the first barrel, I think that would be a good barrel to study and measure where the light reaches in it at different times of the day.Jay Angler wrote:I would put it under the mulch and I would consider putting bags of leaves around the barrel as insulation if you can get away with that with the land-owner, and possible clear plastic over the top, so that at least on warm sunny days, the dirt in the barrel would get warm enough for some decomposition to take place. The issue will be the tendency for it to wait until spring to suddenly shrink down, and you'll find the soil level dropping after you seed, but so long as it doesn't drop so much that the plants don't get light, is that really a problem?
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
When in doubt, doubt the doubt.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
Some peppers have evening low temps that stimulate them to set fruit, and some seem to need to be a certain size. My friend had given up on her Thai Dragon, and now it's got fruit, so don't give up hope!Logan Byrd wrote:
1. Three more plastic barrels were filled up with logs, food waste, and woodchips. I transplanted a year-old Habanada Pepper bonchi into one, and while the plant is growing very well and producing many flowers, I do not see any peppers on it. I never got any peppers when I originally grew it indoors as well, so it may be bad genetics or a variety that requires outcrossing? Either way, I am expecting nada from it.
I've heard that spinach is easier to grow as a fall crop, so please keep us posted.2. A few days ago I placed three spinach varieties into one of the barrels, with around 15 seeds for each. Noorman, Old Dominion, and Securo. There's nothing to report so far for germination, but this is my first time trying a fall crop so I am hoping it does well.
Even if you don't get fruit, you're getting roots and biomass, so let them enjoy their life. If you get a chance to see a Bumble bee that's had a pollen-bath in a squash flower, I expect you'll at least smile - funniest looking yellow ball I've seen in a long time!3. On the ground, there was a honeydew melon plant that self-seeded from some scraps I dropped, although it looks like the soil was poor there since it hardly grew. There is also a watermelon plant that I intentionally planted using David The Good's melon pit method, and it is doing very well, although I fear I started it too late to get any melons from it.
I made some specific wooden trellis panels that fit a barrel, although they've died of old age now. They fit around the "back" of the barrel (north in my case) and provided a place for climbers to grow. If your barrels are in a line close together, you could train it to run along the back of three or four barrels, putting down roots as it goes?The barrel with the birdhouse gourd needed to be loosely staked in place - we have had an unusual number of storms this summer, and each time it stormed, the vine would be thrown into a different direction and all of the fruit would be lost. In the future, I think I would run the vine across dirt so that it can set down roots rather than running it across the woodchips.
My son loves them fresh, but I'm not so keen. However, we both love them in muffins or mixed with apples in apple-crisp, and they freeze well, so if they produce well for you, you may just need to think of other uses for them.I got 50+ cherries of different sizes off the one plant, and while I didn't like them as much as I thought I would, I will try some other cultivars and see if I like them better.
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I won't give up on it, but I don't think I will attempt to bonchi it again and carry it forward into another year. I have been very happy with the barrels overall - I will definitely be replicating this once I have my own place, although I do not know if I will be here next year to see if the barrels perform even better the second year.Jay Angler wrote:Some peppers have evening low temps that stimulate them to set fruit, and some seem to need to be a certain size. My friend had given up on her Thai Dragon, and now it's got fruit, so don't give up hope!
Congrats on getting more barrels filled - "creating" that much volume of "pre-soil" is harder than it sounds, but having filled several large raised beds this year, I have great appreciation for the work involved. That said, they will produce food for many years with little top-ups as well as the learning experiences of what grows in your ecosystem.
I will! I don't like removing plants that I've intentionally planted, since even a late planting will give me experience with watermelon plants for the next year. The only exception to this rule of mine is if a plant starts to endanger other plants or structures, like a vine that slips into house siding or something among those lines.Jay Angler wrote:Even if you don't get fruit, you're getting roots and biomass, so let them enjoy their life. If you get a chance to see a Bumble bee that's had a pollen-bath in a squash flower, I expect you'll at least smile - funniest looking yellow ball I've seen in a long time!
That is a good idea and something that I will try. My current setup is a grid-like pattern, so a barrel, then a gap the size of the barrel, then another barrel, and so forth. My initial idea behind that was that I could grow plants in between the barrels, since over time the rain would wash nutrients from within the barrel down to the soil below it. I didn't get a chance to see if that would have made a difference this year, but if I haven't moved, I'll try that next year.Jay Angler wrote:I made some specific wooden trellis panels that fit a barrel, although they've died of old age now. They fit around the "back" of the barrel (north in my case) and provided a place for climbers to grow. If your barrels are in a line close together, you could train it to run along the back of three or four barrels, putting down roots as it goes?
Frogs are one of my favorite wild critters here - I've also noticed that leopard frogs seem to be hanging out wherever I put down woodchips (including the pile of woodchips that I have been slowly using) although I am not sure why they do so. There's a pond on this property that is very loud in the summers due to the sheer number of frogs that live in it, but tree frogs are more of a rarity so I am very happy to see them enjoying my garden as much as I do.Jay Angler wrote:I'm so glad you've got happy frogs! Frogs are suffering with loss of habitat, polluted water, toxic insects and so many more issues, that if you've made a happy place for frogs, that's awesome!
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
It's never too late to start gardening, and even the smallest project is worthwhile.
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