Hello! Grafting question

New member, but have been lurking for several months.  
I have lots of questions.  
First question;  I have/had a 20th Century asian pear with fire blight, This is the second year I have had it and has been infected both years. I have pruned iit several times and now is back to about a 12" stump.  Currently there has been no symptoms for a few weeks and is beginning to put out more new growth.  I also have a Shinko asian pear that has shown no signs of fire blight.  I want to graft the Shinko onto the 20th Century.  My question is can I graft to the remaining trunk or should I graft to the rootstock and remove as much of the 20th Century as possible.  Novice grafter and is seems like it would be difficult to graft to the rootstock since only 2" is above the soil.

Welcome Nick.
I'd say you have a better change of making a strong graft on rootstock,
I'm not a great grafter at all although finally after years of half assed attempts i did some 20 takers this year.
Crown grafts are not very strong over time and if there's a disease, new shoots might not have it. Might not....

Why not wait until autumn and graft on some new rootstock?
For the price of a cup of coffee you get a disease free rootstock.
It also buys you time to investigate the type of rootstock your type of soil needs.
Could be the reason your tree got sick in the first place.
Nurseries and supermarket-plantstore chains where most people buy their cheap plants and seeds will sell anything.
The more problems the trusting client has the better  because they'll return in despair and that's a great chance to sell them chemicals to poison the garden further, creating more problems for the world to solve with more chemicals. Fantastic business model.
There's rootstock for dwarf growth, middle and big trees as wellm ballerina's what have you!

Good luck.

Sounds like good advice.   This spring I grafted the 20th Cent to a Bradford pear and it seems to be doing fine, lots of other factors though.

But.......... I don't know if I can resist the temptation to experiment.  I was thinking about trying to bud graft but I think I will wait until spring and bark graft onto the rootstock.
I will take the time to research the rootstock options and may try that also.

2” definitely doesn’t leave you much to work with. a few extra inches of the 20th century shouldn’t hurt too much if you keep on top of shoots that want to grow out of the 20th century wood. what’s the width of the stub that’s left?
it should be possible to crown graft on there but i’m not sure i can recommend that a newbie grafter try it…do you have dormant scion from the shinko, or were you hoping to use wood that’s already growing out this year?

Width is close to 1.5", maybe a little less.   About 10-12" of 20th Century remains, Fire blight was in the trunk about 16" above where I pruned to. No guarantee that I got it all but the wood appeared healthy and it's budding out.  I do not have any scions, that's why I was considering a bud graft.   If it lives until next spring I can have dormant scions, either my own or will purchase.  
Wasn't sure what a crown graft was so I googled it, what is the difference in crown graft and a bark graft?  
This spring I had a Bradford pear in my yard that I was going to remove, for fun I decided to practice grafting.  I gathered some pear prunings, (both of the mentioned asian and 30 year old unknown European), some had been laying about outside for up to 2-3 weeks and some for only a couple of days.  I used these on the Bradford.  Then decided to graft to some "wild" callery pears along the edge of a field.  I did whip and tongue when the sizes were similar and what I called a bark graft when the rootstock was much larger.  This was all for practice/fun, and to work on techinque.  Most of these are currently growing well.  
Considering my inexperience and the quality of the scion material I was very surprised/pleased.