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Disease resistant soils

 
Posts: 13
Location: Nova Scotia
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I want to build disease resistance in the soil of my annual/perennial vegetable garden as well as in my fruit bushes as the incidence of diseases can greatly decrease my ability to seed save and grow a large variety of crops and has a massive impact on my resilience. Does anyone have any information on how to build disease resistant soils? I would be very interested if anyone knew how to inoculate your soil with fungi that would outcompete soil pathogens. I am aware of Trichoderma Harazium but being roped into buying them every year (as my climate is too cold to overwinter them) does not align with my views. Thank you!
 
gardener
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Welcome Nick! I think you've come to the right place, we're all obsessed with Our Best Soil here.
I'm going to direct you to our own Dr Bryant Redhawk's Epic Soil Threads.
He is literally the man who knows this topic and has graced us with so much information here.
https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil
Links are in that thread. Have fun and look forward to seeing you around here!
 
steward
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I am a believer in soil health and building soil through the use of organic matter,

First, start making compost.  Folks can never have too much compost.

https://permies.com/t/38994/composting/Composting-place

https://permies.com/t/174946/composting/Composting-dummies

Second start finding sources of wood chips.

https://permies.com/t/120453/Great-Wood-Chips

Third, learn to grow mushrooms.

https://permies.com/t/174814/Step-Step-Instructions-Growing-Wine

https://permies.com/t/176222/Experiences-Growing-Mushrooms

Cover those beds with compost, wood chips and mushrooms and I see success in your future!
 
Nick Kulik
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Location: Nova Scotia
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Thank you everyone those look like some excellent resources that I certainly will be trying! I’ve never thought of growing mushrooms as food in order to outcompete fungal diseases but the prospect is rather exciting, I love getting two outputs for one input! I’m now thinking of growing them under my sunchoke patch and my valerian bushes. What fun
 
pollinator
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Nick,  An initial disclaimer:  I am not a representative of the vendor nor the manufacturer of this product, nor obtain any compensation from them in any form.  

I have used SoilGuard (Gliocladium virens.....aka, Trichoderma virens) quite successfully in preventing damping off when starting tomato and pepper seedlings indoors in the spring.  The product listed here:  https://www.7springsfarm.com/products/soilgard-microbial-fungicide-5-lb-bag?variant=41621324169421&aa_source=google&aa_medium=cpc&aa_creative=554572136046&aa_campaign=15015030199&aa_content=127454790174&aa_placement=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1920BhA3EiwAJT3lSeNJ3gVhCWWzoImqjmsKKoadZMUQX23CGcs2IpfZEsU6RLOD-HweGBoCJq8QAvD_BwE

would go a long ways to assisting with many diseases that may affect your beds, but I can't speak to how it may suppress late season diseases because I'm only using it to produce healthy seedlings for planting.  Granted, the fungus in the product will tag along with the transplant and help to protect certain diseases in the garden, but (for example) we still get late-season Septoria on the tomatoes.  So it's difficult to say how protective it would be against foliar diseases.

More to your question:  I have found that a handful (~2-3 tablespoons?) of the product mixed in with damp potting soil/compost and kept moist for several days will produce a fair amount of mycelial growth (brown colored) across the top of the soil.  By default, as a soil-dwelling fungus, I'm assuming the entire mass of potting soil/compost to be infused with the mycelium.  This *usually* can be stored in a cool place for at least a year or two with little loss of viability.  Just let the mass of soil and fungus dry down over a few days (no watering), then bag it up and place in a cool place like a root cellar for storage.  This will provide at least one leg of your disease control strategy and be provide ideas for culturing other suppressive agents for your garden.

A bit technical, but a good conceptual overview can be found here (appears to be open-access):   https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/10.1094/PHYTO-09-22-0324-KD

Good luck!
 
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