Hmmm... Introduction. I can give a short summary of the things I wish I knew when I first started farming fibre. Maybe something here will interest you.
The first thing to consider is where you live. What you grow will depend entirely on that. So, for example, you wouldn't want to grow cotton if you live too far north or south, as cotton is not frost hardy, and it also depends on day length to produce fibre.
Learning about your
local fibreshed may be the best way to get started (or Fib
ershed for those in the US). In all likelihood there will already be people growing fibre in your area, have a look around and see if anything inspires you.
I can't stress enough how important it is to start with something that grows well in your area.
Flax & Linen: This is insanely easy to grow where I live and requires very little if any
irrigation. It's sewn early, while the soil is still damp and cool, then takes off when the summer hits. Processing the plant into cloth is a challenging learning curve - but not that hard when you get the hang of it. People who already know how to work with wool tend to have the most trouble learning. Till the earth, broadcast the seeds, grow the stuff, pull it up and dry it, ripple it, rett it, break, scrutch and hackle, then and only then can we spin it. The seeds you can save for next year's planting (seeds last about one year, upto five if properly dried - see
Carol deppe's book resilient gardener on how to dry seeds for long term storage) or for eating, or for animal
feed. Fibre flax won't produce as many seeds as seed flax and seed flax won't produce as nice a fibre as fibre flax.
This is my favourite fibre to wear next to my skin, and the most comfortable in warm weather. It requires very little soil fertility, but benefits from a bit of animal manure. There aren't many pests that bother flax either. For this reason, flax is well suited for organic growing techniques.
Nettles: If you live somewhere where stinging nettles grow wild, then take advantage of them. They love marshy, poorly drained, acidic, nutrient rich soil... the low marsh downhill from the
compost heap. Nettles double as food for critters, food for humans, medicine for humans and livestock, dye plant, soil builder, and a fibre plant. Some people have strong allergic reactions to the sting, but the sting (supposedly) goes away when the plant is dried.
I've had limited success processing the fibre from nettles. It was very common in the middle ages, but there seems to be very limited information on how to do this. It's very similar to flax, and was often used interchangeably in the early medieval period. There are some slight differences that crop up when processing nettles to fibre. The retting and breaking is the same, but from there, it differs than linen.
Judith Mccuin has some information about how first nations on the West Coast processed nettles in one of her books.
Cotton: The plant grows well enough where I live, but it's only hardy to about 10 degrees C. So I grow it in pots and bring them inside in the winter. The day length is wrong here for the cotton flowers to set. There are some lovely natural cotton colours, green, brown, white, cream, &c. I've worked with it, and it's very enjoyable. A charkha wheel or a spindle wheel work well for making cotton thread.
Hemp, jute, sizel, &c. I haven't tried these, but they are possible depending on what part of the world you are in.
Llama: Llamas are wonderful guardian animals. Once you start keeping a few large livestock, you would probably get a llama. The llama berries (poo) are excellent on the garden. Very good for increasing the hardiness and circulation of the plants, and it requires no aging time. You apply it right out of the llama if you like. Llamas also make excellent pack animals.
A lot of people scoff at llama fibre, but I find it can be lovely. One of the biggest problems with llamas (AND EVERY FIBRE ANIMAL) is that the farmers don't seem to realize how much influence diet and minerals have on the quality of the fibre. Sure they are hardy and can live on very sparse picking, spending a few extra dollars on mineral supplements will transform the fleece from compost to award winning fibre.
Alpaca: A lot like llamas, only less useful. They make fibre, alpaca berries, and work. You can spend the big bucks and get a $40,000 alpaca, or you can rescue an abused one for free and pamper it back to good health and after a couple of years, create the most gorgeous fibre.
Both llama and alpaca fibre are about 4 times more insulating than wool. The fibre has very little crimp and a lot of weight per volume, which means that any garment made from 100% llama or alpaca fibre will hang heavy. This fibre is usually mixed with at least 30% sheeps wool, quite often a 70/30 mix wool/alpaca is popular.
Sheep: Sheep are awesome!
I love my sheep. They make manure, they mow the grass, they act in entertaining ways, they make wool, make
milk and they make tasty dinners.
Once you get into fibre animals you will need to decide if you want to eat them or not. If not, then don't bother breeding them. This is my opinion. You breed sheep, it makes more sheep, if you don't 'rid yourself of the extra sheep, then you will VERY QUICKLY have too many for the
land, their health will suffer, you have poor quality wool. If you don't want to eat your sheep, then see if you can find some rescue animals, and make certain the males have been wethered (balls gone).
The biggest advantage of growing sheep is that most of the cottage industry tools are designed for processing sheeps wool, or as it's know in the fibre world: WOOL. All other animals produce fibre/fiber. In English, after about the 1650s, wool refers to only sheep's fibre, although the term 'wool' was popular term for yarn in the first half of the 20th C. it was only used as a clever way of mislabeling the new synthetic fibres.
There are lots of ways one can go with sheep. One way is to find a good fibre sheep that does well in your climate. Heritage breeds will fetch a higher selling price for raw fleece, as most handspinners are well trained to want only specific kinds of wool. Specific rare breeds will also make the lambs easier to
sell for breeding - you get less money this way than for meet, and you won't sell them all, but it's an option. The downside of this is that these sheep usually have a very limited genetic diversity and are more prone to problems. Depending on the breed you can't register the animal if it has mixed genetics, so if you are going purebred rout, then this is a problem you would have to live with.
What I'm doing is creating my own
landrace of sheep. I've choses some starter ewes that have good genetics, then I choose a ram each year from a variety of sheep that have the traits I want. I want small sheep, with good health, easy birthing, high twinning rate, but low triplets or singles, excellent handspinning fibre, more or less a single colour per sheep, but a variety of colours within the flock, and delicious, tender adult meat. The downside of this, is that selling my fleece to spinners is very difficult as they aren't farmers and don't understand how to work with a fleece that isn't a specific breed.
With sheep, the quality of the fibre is only half genetics, the rest is care and proper mineral supplementation (which changes on location and time of year).
Goat: There are fibre goats. I've never met one. General goat care is all about training the humans to interact with the goats correctly so the goats don't become violent, and proper nutrition. I'm guessing fibre goats are the same.
Bunnies: This is your second most space saving critter.
You wouldn't think it, but the smaller the livestock is, the more time one needs to dedicate to keeping it healthy. Fibre bunnies are very time consuming.
Bunnies breed like
rabbits and can very quickly become overcrowded. Most fibre bunnies don't produce good meat... so... what are you going to do with the excess bunnies? Build 8 new cages the first year, 50 new cages the next, 1500 the year after that? Breeding rabbits requires thinking about what will happen to these critters. The most horrible thing I've seen happen to bunnies is someone gets three, breeds them, changes their mind about killing them, has almost 20 rabbits living in the space barely adequate for 3.
Bunnies are tricky, but can be very rewarding if you do it right. Angora (the fibre from angora rabbits, fibre from angora goats is called something else) is a very sought after fibre and can fetch quite a decent price IF you know where to sell it. If you get a rabbit that makes good meat as well as fibre, they are the most efficient producers of animal protein of any livestock.
Looking at bunnies from a permaculture point of view is very interesting. When I raised meat rabbits I hated that the rabbits were breed to eat only commercial feed and couldn't stomach a handful of greens. Yet, when my dad was a kid, the rabbits only ate greens. There is a lot of interesting work being done with rabbits, and if I was growing them again, I think I would probably catch a wild one, make certain it's health was pristine, then breed it in with my domestic ones to increase their genetic diversity.
If one's never cared for livestock before - and pets don't count - rabbits are a good starting point. One or two fibre rabbits, not a breeding pair, learn to care for them, brush them daily, keep their nails trimmed, &c and so on.
Silk: Most common silk producing moths are either Bombex (eats mulberry) or Tussah (eats oak). You can buy the larvie pretty easily and it only requires a few cubic feet to raise them... and access to fresh
trees.
There is another option for growing silk moths, and I suspect this is going to become very popular soon, is to grow indigenous moths. Where I live, the
polyphemus moth is
native, and will willingly eat about 2 dozen different kinds of native trees that thrive around here. They produce a large cocoon, but not as fine a silk as the more traditional moths. I suspect a bit of breading will greatly improve the quality of the silk. One of the popular methods, is to make a bag from remae and cover a branch or seedling of a tree with it, put the worms on that tree. Since it's a native species, one one that poses little threat to agricultural plants, a couple of escapees are not considered harmful. I prefer to grow mine inside just because I feel bad about letting domestic animals into the wild. Most places in North America have native silk producing moths.
Dye plants: A big part of a permaculture fibre farm would include dye plants. When I started with dying, I focused on plants that already grow in my area, then branched out to some of the other more common ones. Just a note, many dye plants can easily become invasive species.
Skills and equipment to transform fibre into cloth: How far do you want to go? Do you want to send your fibre off to the local fibre mill and get it back ready to spin, or do you want to wash and process every stage of fibre prep. If the latter, it takes a lot of time while you are learning. I can talk more about this, depending on what kind of fibre you are interested in.
Some styles of making cloth include felting, weaving, knotting, knitting, crochet, and a whole lot more. Each requires different equipment, and if you are making yarn, each benefits from different style of yarn making - all this stuff about a balanced yarn, and how you '
should' make yarn, only apply to the first few hundred
yard. Making yarn for specific tasks, usually break all the rules they teach you as a novice. A lot of people have difficulty understanding this, but the end results are vastly improved if you can break your training and customize your spinning to the task.
The Big Book of Handspinning will help you here, but I warn you, it's highly technical.
Selling: This is the part most farmers have trouble with. I came to farming from the fibre world, so I already knew the members of the local guild, what shops have a focus on local artisans, &c. Most of what I sell is actually handspun yarns for knitters. My favourite yarns to spin are very fine weaving yarns however.
Resources:
<---how do I make video go happy?
a bunch of videos about fibresheds
Fibershed
TransistionVictoria, Flax to Linen Group
Flax culture, from flower to fabric by Mavis Atton
The magic of linen : flax seed to woven cloth by, Heinrich
The Intentional Spinner
Tough Love For Rams - if you have any male sheep or goats, intact or otherwise.
In Sheep's Clothing - a hand spinners guide to sheep breeds
Fleece and Fibre Sourcebook
Wormspit - everything you want to know about raising moths
Harvesting Colour
Big Book of Handspinning
Anything peak your curiosity?