There are a huge number of variables involved in this question. Among them are your climate (tropical, sub-tropical, temperate? wet, arid, moderate? Seasonal rains or balanced precipitation throughout the year?); your topography; your existing biome (wooded, grassland, savannah, swamp, etc.); wind exposure, sun exposure; animal impacts (wildlife in significant numbers on the property? Domesticated livestock? What kinds of animals/livestock, i.e. larger herbivores, primarily birds and small rodents, etc.?)
"Best" is a hugely subjective term. For some people a money intensive approach that requires minimal labor on their part is "better" than a low monetary cost method that involves lots of physical work on their part. For others, that equation is reversed.
One question is whether you can use P.A. Yeoman's keyline plowing techniques on your
land. That will depend on your topography being suitable and your being able to get a
tractor with a Yeoman's plow type subsoiler to work your land. Keyline plowing improves aeration, greatly improves
water infiltration and distribution and generally promotes the health and welfare of the soil biology. Yeomans had tremendous success building soil and I think that the keyline plowing was part of the reason.
How large a piece of land are we talking about? Methods that will work well on one acre and are manageable may be entirely out of the question on 20, and vice versa.
In terms of what to add to the soil, I would get compost started as soon as possible and when it is going well, make compost tea and use that to inoculate your soil. Introducing the microbiology that way has a tremendous impact (see the work of Dr. Elaine Ingham on this subject).
Be a bit careful with seaweed as it can add salt that you do not really want or need in your soil.
Wood chips can be used to grow
mushrooms. The mushrooms will both give you an edible yield and prepare the woodchips for introduction into your soil, along with lots of mycorhizal fungi. You could use the wood chips as mulch and inoculate with something like wine cap mushrooms in the place they are being used as mulch. Again, you get mushrooms as a yield and the woodchips get broken down faster to become nutritional soil.
When you compost, remember you need to balance nitrogen rich materials with
carbon rich materials, so put some of that straw into your compost
I don't know
enough about the indigenous microorganism approach to comment on that part.
I would not worry about adding rock powder. You really don't want to go adding "Everything" on the assumption that all of it is needed. Unless you have some soil testing results, or observations of the currently growing plants, that clearly indicate your soil is short in some mineral you could provide with rock dust from your concrete making, I would not recommend adding it.
One risk with trying to do so many things at once is that you will burn yourself out and not have the
energy or focus to get them done.
Something else to consider is the
permaculture guideline of "slow, small solutions". Do a thing, do it thoroughly, observe the results and follow up with another thing, step-by-step. It may not make for the fastest best results, but it avoids the fastest worst results
