kevin batselier

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since Feb 13, 2014
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Recent posts by kevin batselier

Don't sweet about the makers mark there where hunderds of different makers/models back in the day with there own marks just curieus about it.
10 years ago
You learn from your mistakes, that's how simple it's. Stil you can find old steel snaths for cheap. Paid 3 Euros for snath + blade on a flea market some months ago in good enough shape (read as not perfect but good enough after some toutchups)
10 years ago
Hm. I would say good try buuuuut if that is a classic dutch/flemish scythe blade (looking at th vid it's) you might be in trouble. The tang angel on those is huge (30° sometimes even more) that is the reason why the store bought steel snaths(handels) have the short grip near the blade and the long near the but it changes the overal "workangel" of the snath so the tip of the blade doesn't dig in to the ground when in use. Best thing to do is to hold your scythe like you would use it and see if it rests on the belly with the up.
If so, your in the money! If not... i am afraid your snath is not gone work at all.
I live in Flanders and restored several steel snaths+blades and made the same misstake with the first.

PS: What is the makers mark and text on the blade? can't tell on the vid.
10 years ago
Just a thought (hav some experience with bad soil+tonnes of wind+drought from my work)
why don't you use pebbles or small stones as mulch and use woodchips in the soil to make it a bit hugelisch in combination with compost, IF you can get it. Also shade and wind cover is gone be huge. my personal experience watering trees is that does in the shade and with some wind cover grow beter and need less water. trees that stand in the wind and full sun are a nightmare to get going to the point they no longer need assistence.
As for irrigation: I am not against drip irrigation but since NM is almost dead dessert i imagine it's needed long term. drainage tubes can be used as well. Dig them in about 30-40cm (doesn't have to be exact) loop them round and conect them with a T joint. this way the water get's in the rooting zone of your crop where the plant's need it the most. the stones don't absorb the water as fast or as much as the woodchips but still protect your soil from the sun and wind and they arn't as easily washed away or blown away.

In any case just my 2cents...
10 years ago
I can get my hands on some socald 'Blue clay' at work.
My question is this: can it be used for making cob for a RMH?
10 years ago