Edward Sutton

On 8/04/2021 Since I let my son's Dunstin Chestnut tree dry out in the pot and loose it's leaves, in the heat.  I planted it in a 24 inch by 24 inch cube of a hole.  I added alternating layers of dirt, peach scraps from processing fruit for canning (and pits ), and a modest amount of 10-10-10 fertilizer, some bagged topsoil / bagged compost/ and 1/3 of a 5 gallon bucket of water.  Then drove three wood stakes around it to prevent getting mowed by the zero turn mower, when it gets to zooming around.

I found a pdf of the method, and EGW's description, and the more modern description that seems to adapt what was originally stated.

Here is the pdf link to the modern adapted method and how EGW stated the method used then in Australia, where she was at at the time (drained swamp land.)

EGW method - modern PDF

the youtube of the modern adapted method



The Ellen White Method of tree planting as is described by EGW in the PDF - rocks, rich dirt, dressing (barn yard manure )

I will try both methods (rock/rich dirt/big hole/barnyard manure)  and (the method adapted in the pdf / video )   when I purchase new fruit trees and keep you posted.  Both fruit trees will be the same variety planted on the same day.  

What does the variety ronde de bordeaux taste like, production levels etc ?  I like the production I got from my Kadota figs when I lived in Arkansas.

I will try this when I purchase new fruit trees and keep you posted.

G.May
I would love to give them a new home.  I don't know how to PM here, so my mailing address is:
876 Nichols Road
Dixon Springs, TN 37057

If the moderators would tutor me how to privately message or privately share, I would appreciate it.

However the strawberries need a new home.  

Thank You for your generosity.

[size=12] Also you might consider in the mid fall piling ground up leaves around it and holding them in with a wrapping of chicken wire, then once spring arrives, pulling down the leaves from it, spreading them around it in the feeder root zones, spreading wood ashes ( maybe one or two pounds) over the feeder area (a six foot radius ) prune away 1/3 of the mass of the bush, then after enough growth of greenery, a few weeks later in the early summer pinching all the tops.  Save all your banana peels and blend them up and pour them around the fig roots.

The fig sounds like it can not build enough energy to fruit under it's present conditions.  Pruning away some of it's focus on green vegetation might redirect it to fruit production.  If the soil it's in has too much nitrogen, consider spreading a one inch of sawdust plus the wood ashes over the radius of the feeder roots, and work it in lightly with a potato digger. That will tie up excess nitrogen, and increase the potassium.  Perhaps that will encourage fruiting.  And contact the WNC extension service near Asheville, and ask them how to put the fig in high gear to fruit.  

It sounds like the fig survives winter, but is too drained to fruit, then the season shuts down on it too soon.

I was born and grew up in WNC.  Where is the closest town to your stubborn fig ?  I am living in TN now.  

I suggest that if you still have the fig, and still don't want it.  That either you sell it and require whoever buys it to dig it up, or dig around the trunk, enough to wrap a chain around it sufficient to keep it in one piece, put an old large truck tire rim under the chain as close to the fig as possible, and hook the other end of the chain to the hitch on a big pickup truck, or a tractor and pull the fig up and out.  It sounds like a good root stock fig that could serve you well in a different location.[size=12]