klorinth McCoy

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since Feb 13, 2011
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Southern Manitoba, Canada, Zone 3B
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Recent posts by klorinth McCoy

As Glenn suggested, drain to daylight and build the site up.

I live in a very flat high clay area. In my last property I built up a couple acres by a total of 3’ and sloped the entire area away from the house/garage in all directions. That kept the amount of water at the base of the foundation to a minimum. Cracking of the ground is always going to be an issue. As long as the footings are below the frost line and sloped out as Glenn suggested you shouldn’t have an issue with shifting.

My other suggestion would be to do a sloped insulation/water skirt around the house. At least 2” thick rigid insulation sloped 1/4” per foot and extended out 4’ or more. That will not only push the water away, but also move the frost line. If you don’t want to use the rigid insulation then go with a layer of straw sandwiched between heavy plastic sheeting. Anything to insulate and waterproof.

I have lived in a +100 year old house with a rubble stone foundation. As long as I maintained the proper slope for drainage I did not have a problem in our heavy (almost pure) clay, even with the frost line down at +60”s.
3 years ago
I agree with Rebecca on looking at traditional designs from hot countries.

You can also look at designs from pre electricity American South. Porches and overhangs that shade in the heat, and windows that open up and down along with a counterpart on the cool side of the house to encourage cross flow of air thru the whole house. High ceilings are also a good idea to cause stratification of the air. Ceilings 9-10’ high.

Stairwells and open areas between floors can be used as chimneys for airflow.
3 years ago
One other suggestion I have from personal experience is to not skimp on the quality of your building. Do it right the first time.

It's not about the amount of money you put into what you build. It's the quality of the building. If you build it right it will last for longer and you won't be replacing it in just a couple years.

This is especially true with animals shelters and buildings. Cows, goats, and pigs are hard on them.
3 years ago
$10,000 fibre mill to go with our flock of sheep.
Then a $7,000 mobile pen and handling chute.

Frustrating
3 years ago
How much land is this? How many acres of each zone are you working with?

How many animals are you planning for? Are you bringing feed in or producing it yourself?

Are there any fences in place or will you be building them?

I assume no barns, coops, or weather shelters are already existing so you will be building them.

I’m no authority on permaculture. My experience is with grazing sheep, pigs, and poultry. Planting and maintaining pasture is a major part of that and it takes more effort than most people think.

Get fences, buildings, and pasture in place and ready before adding the animals. I have made the mistake of getting stock too soon and it takes years of hard work to recover from that. Don’t do it.

Access to water is also very important for your stock. You need a good plan and system in place. Running water and/or the ability to move it to the animals. I used 1000 litre totes to move water to my stock. They worked well until my flock was up to 80+ head. At that point the hot days of summer meant refilling a couple times a week to ensure fresh clean water.

Rotational use of the land is also important. Don’t keep animals on the same ground for too long. Ideally move them as the forage is eaten down. Cows graze high grasses, Goats a little lower. Pigs and chickens then clean behind. That will give maximum use of the forage and then dispersal of the manure. The pigs and chickens help reduce the flies attracted by the cow patties when they spread them all over.

If you want to colllect manure use a central pen or coral where the larger animals can be fed and watered each day after coming in from grazing.

There is sooooo much that could be written
3 years ago
Ranson,
Thank you for the response. I too have lots of experience with wet hay bales. Years of feeding livestock gave me more than I would like. That is actually a major reason for me asking about adding lime to the bales in some way. I know a lime wash (white wash) helps to prevent mold growth so it made me wonder about some way of applying it to the bales before plastering them. That way you might reduce the risk of mold caused by internal condensation during the cold winter months.

Glenn,

My gut tells me that you are right about a dip adding too much moisture to the bales. I don’t know how to add enough for good effect without moisture soaking into the center during the drying phase.

I was picturing spraying the bales as possibly the easiest method. I just don’t know if that would get enough lime into the straw for it to be effective. That is why I was wondering about spraying all sides of the bales and not just the exposed surfaces of the finished walls. I just don’t have enough experience to guess.

One of the things I really like about Hempcrete is it’s lime based resistance to mold. If I could get some of that and the insulation value, plus ease of stacking bales, I would be very happy.
3 years ago
I am very interested in these techniques. I have plans to use at least the girdling technique for the posts on future cabin.

My only real question is if this would be as good on deciduous species. I have only seen mention of coniferous species being used. Can I use it with poplar, elm,  oak, etc?
Has anyone ever heard anything about the pros and cons of adding a lime wash to the bales prior to using them?

I am specially thinking about reducing the risk of mold and rot.

I’m picturing a light dip or spray that would soak into the outer couple of inches on all sides.
3 years ago
Finished it. Very good read. Well worth it. Good explanation of why he did what he did and why you should think about it. I love that he gives very practical and useable information. This is not a fluff book like so many others, just talking about nice sounding ideas they promise will change your lives and the world. He is talking about simple and easy to follow actions that will have a direct Impact on your soil, forage, and livestock. He tells you what to do and why. He gives clear direction of what to use and how... exactly what I like.

Buy it and read it.
6 years ago
That looks like a great read. Fits perfectly with how I am already looking at our pasture.
Thank you for the recommendation I will be reading it.
6 years ago