it sounds viable in theory as your barrier medium is shipping container. But mushroom manure is "spent" by commercial criteria, that spent material is sold to gardener's because it's still jumping with life. if you think you can keep the moisture out I don't see it eating a container and if it ever did it would be from going past the metal and into the inside of the home.
You could ask him to define what he thinks are the characteristics that differentiate a philosophical permaculture adopter from an ardent big black-book landscape trotting designer.
I think we don't hear enough about the different depths permaculture can take people in so many ways in their lives. I think allot of people could find themselves and see where they fit in by hearing about the different character traits that permaculture is inclusive of.
I hear the theoretical possibilities of what your saying and thinking wow if fungi can do that, I know where to get lots of fungi. Then I took a hard look at the risk being heavily weary on knowledge and foresight and said there's no way we know enough about fungi to wrap ourselves in it, never mind a fruiting body of mushroom can go through asphalt but think of the climatic predictions you have to control. If 1 pipe burts in the lifetime of your home even if it never rains it would be enough to start a chain of conditions that the mycelium could exploit, and naturally eat your home.
Even when i think about cement I know it cracks with time, it's not that the fungi attack their barrier but more that you can't guarantee the barrier and you don't know every variable that nature can chip at over time.
I dunno it's like the statement "if it was alive it can live again in compost" gives me the chills about this as much as the statement is exciting in the context of compost.
I can't expertly dismiss or extol what you suggest, but one aspect of me says great Idea I'd love to find out if it works. The other said this is a mans life were talking about and permaculture critical thinking says that caution should be applied were it's impossible to know enough to control the outcome.
There are other items that serve as 100+ year insulation but they might not fit your bio-region, have you herd of a aquatic plant called zostra? After composting it you get almost pure silica remainder which nothing can feed off of and is better than hay.
sugar isn't what turns apples into vinegar per se, it's the vinegar fly's that spread the bacteria the vinegar needs if you don't have mother of vinegar available. If you want to go crazy a cup to a gallon it's already overkill inoculant, the apple poly phenols content in the unripe apples that fall when the tree's self pruning are 10 times higher. That's what we get from vinegar, temperature has more to do with alcohol lockup because it's late in the apple season and the bacteria shut down. I'm with you sugar does make a difference but i tasted one of our apples that was 2 inches big and it taste the same just strong poly phenols that in crap apples = cramps. I tried to find some data on unripe apples and vinegar but it just turned up more study's on apple polyphenols but I would like to know if adding a margin of sugar helps guarantee the deal. But it's hard to guess with so many species with such different sugar contents at different growth phases. If your worried about fallen apples n somebody hatching in it before you get it, id make the vinegar for the animals.
a follow up now that im not typing from my phone.
Calf hutches are what your looking for, portable domes for shade and rain shelter, there thin walled and you can hop inside and lift it over your head if needs be.
I use them for the ducks, but they have multiple design's and can even come with a small fence so you can feed in if you have a fleet of calves or just one goat you want to keep in today.
In a fenced off situation I would just leave them open and hay it down with bedding, your manured and mulched garden or tree planting is ready to go when you move them to new pasture.
a pear tree isn't the mean machine root producer let's say a willow or a river red gum is. Those go deep mining looking for water and food and they may find it by going through your basement wall. Pear's arn't that robust at all, I can't think of many fruit tree's that are.
I don't see any theoretical problems to the mix just don't think your balancing ph, more than your adding lime to your coffee as a additional nutrient. a 50/50 mix could be disastrous, same thing goes with how you apply it, ash on the leaves kills spiders and acute foliar application could really screw up plants. On the flip side if you can apply it onto mulch the ash will boost the coffee's slug repellancy while dry and slowly at potash as water leaches it through the soil layers. I can't seem to do anything delicately so i usually throw grounds at the plants in the rain hoping to hit slugs in the face and let the rain wash it down. I figure why put it where slugs might be, put it where there going so each time the climb it falls in their face. I wonder if at the right moisture would coffee help bind up the ash so it's less mobile, or would it just destroy the bacteria that the worms are actually feeding on when they go at coffee grounds.
Is this an apocalyptic scenario or is there a specific health reason why salt can't be used in lacto fermentation. I know I've substituted juiced celery for that nitrate powder they put on meat to cure it, but the same could be said about lime and where will you get your citrus from for your ferments. For now salt is pouring out of our ears and during the apocalypse salt will probably be a subject of murder, but until the reckoning that never comes thought human history I have no advice to subvert salt for the sake of it. If were going judgement day circumstances we might have a wee problem not getting radioactive milk.
thats pretty tempting but I think i still want to grow into a mango tree or olive tree and live 1000 more years.
But turning into a bushel of payote will allow me to communicate with the user long after im gone.
Thats the trouble with bentonite it really deserves equipment to push it in so you get it right for all your money spent. A hand dug pond could be tamped in layers but where talking 1-2 inch per lift and your also the one moving the dirt.
I don't know what area your in but if you had a plant like okra that really goes slimey fast, you could wet the ground feed the cows in rows so they have to travel the whole pond each day, then slap down vegetation that goes really manky and slimey then cover it. The cows will do 85% of the compaction and you won't have to port clay back in. Dig till your tired then run the cattle routine so you can see them standing in each area. It doesn't have to be a perfect pond right at the first fill, but it should algae up pretty fast with the seeped manure and clog itself. Dam's have 1 impermeable wall but the back of the dam can leak allot till the landscape is saturated. All the better for the adjoining areas, the last step in really sealing an earth pond that's single handedly built is to put a flock of ducks on it till it seals then take the ducks off as a yield.
Cow put down a much heavier psi for every step they take, do you ever wonder how those beast stand on such small feet. Pigs do it by tilling then walking on it with some water, Cows do it by brute force but won't work in water which is better to seal once it's filled with poo.
how steep are is the up slope, that's where cows wont work as well without vegetation. If where talking about a now thing, yes you could feed them hay but it doesn't turn into a gel at the base of the pond. It's got to be sappy vegetation like crushed pumpkins for example or allot of fresh grass.
It's really the shape that defines who's most appropriate for the job and right now it's sounds like pigs chasing food and when it starts to become bare soil and there going for the roots start adding water so it goes muddy, then a little more each day till there full on wallowing in the sun.
The word your looking for is gleying your pond with manure as the binding agent.
There are more steps than just filling it with manure and then water, without those steps you could cause a malaria outbreak of mosquito's.
The manure is mixed by the cow's with green material, usualy you grow a crop in the pond then they go in to eat it and the poo and the vegetation is compacted. Or you layer it with quick to slime out vegetation like fresh grass, then seal it with cardboard or plastic so it doesn't break apart. Depending on the climate the material forms an anaerobic gel that seals the pond. The pigs do the same over a longer period unless you have allot of pigs. It can be done with vegetation alone but I don't have 12-15 inches of grass to lay over a pond sealed with plastic and cardboard. Is it a natural pond sites or are you planning to excavate in a dam wall style? If it's naturally a pond site it's probably fertile enough to grow a crop of pumpkins and root crop to get the pigs to till it down hard.
Its not enough of a vacuum, I've done it but into a smaller drum, allot smaller. You can do it with forced air, but that manks with the economy of the heater. But your auto exaust system idea sounds great from a component durability salvage point of view, so it might be worth the trade off. I use the rocket mass heater design to run a drying room so I'm trying to create bleed off into a small room so I can lower the humidity. All the moist air sucks into the stove, the design of my piping coils under the deck floor so I have to force air in exchange for all the turns i had to make. If not a rmh i think those retort kilns could certainly make use off the parts, I'm not into making biochar, but I am into charring bones for potash and calcium so a nice small one could use the smaller piping from the muffler.
If you want a dvd series that is more informational than inspirational I would start with Geoff Lawton's dvd series. It's not that it's not as inspiring as the rest, but it's more structured to highlight educational topics from food forest establishment to how to build a compost heap.
I think you can even get a discount if you buy a combo pack.
If you search for sepp holzer on youtube and specify video's +20mins his videos are practicaly public domain now as they've become very old. Buy his books if you really want to dig into what sepp teaches, the videos get you excited and your more likely to make a mess without some background education.
It sounds like the grass seed was in the mulch, the fastest thing you can do if you have the weather for it is solarize the grass with black plastic. In that heat and lack of light they will die off and shrivel up the roots. It's not the greatest thing for your bed's soil life but neither is a grass garden. You could try flipping it and all sort's of things, but if it's really from the mulch, new seeds will keep germinating in waves. I made that mistake long ago, now i only mulch with hay that is rotten. If it's not the hay seed it's something else, the method still works in hot weather. I tried it with clear plastic in boggy ground and it failed, the plants had enough light to pump the ground dry sweating into the plastic.
awesome stuff I never knew how to properly start water chestnuts, why I keep throwing them in water to rot is beyond me. I had the same problem with water rest till I tried it in soil. I thought my chestnuts were bad but it was really my moron technique
I have 6 tiny ponds in my front yard and 6 super tiny tire sized ponds down the side of the house running downhill. I got an easy one for you and you even get a panting berm out of it for every one you do, plant a free bathtub in your soil, berm the earth around the tub and cover the edged that are flush with the ground with walking stones. There's always a free bathtub, i found two in my backyard, and they dig in an afternoon, I put those feeder fish in them, frogs show up, salamanders show up and I grow duckweed and cattails no mosquito's. When i don't have tubs I dig a stress relieving hole of any shape till i get to tree roots, i layer that building plastic 4 layers thick and I bury the ends under the berm. The ducks have two 10x6 foot ponds in their run, with tubs you can always drain them to sterilize them, grow mussels to fix phosphate then throw dirt in them after you harvest. I don't go for anything overboard or else I feel like I can't have many of them or share the technique with people of less resource.
I thought about it, if I had an image for every element as a node with a corresponding picture i could build networks of relationships that could be output as a quilt of images in their hierarchy of dominance and group those into cluster's that are also sorted into a downward connecting tree that are fit into a simple quilt. The quilt is navigated by depth and any node/image in the tree can take you to any of it's connections. It would probably take most of my life to examining components and figure out all the connections, but building one of those for a design is easy because i'm limited to only connecting the clients elements.
I don't want to build such a thing while i'm still young and spry for digging in the mud, but I know which tools need to be connected to do it. It would sort of end up like those silly floating screens people touch in sci fi movies, but with clicking.
It sounds like something I'd like to do with my older years, create a program for navigating infinite potential of the connections in permaculture which is no different than nature inclusive of humanity.
On the comment of them not hoping fences, I think it might depend on the breed, my muscovies flew/walked up a 4 foot open roofed duck tractor. They will stay in a fenced area as long as they can't expand there wings and go up the fence, I use sticks along the fence to stop them and sometimes the sticks grow into tree's. Meat ducks also have a way of big breasting a weak fence down to the ground by leaning on it as they climb, mine use to go under the fence at first till i made a "J" shaped fence and let the grass stitch it into the ground. Free range birds work best in a woody system of tree's and shrubs, herbaceous gardens are to paradisaical for them to control themselves.
how do make multidimensional connections simplified and digestible, that's a tough one. all you can really do is simplify its presentation to the viewer. the expounding of the permaculture design manual is about ad simple as it gets while being honorable to the truth of its complexity. its no small book, and it would be even harder software to write. I work with non linear node based connections for a living, and the truth is the more you label the more compounded is the brain fry. All you can really do is display the hierarchy of connections in cascading fields of dominance. outputs may dwarf inputs in something like a chicken if there is a greater field like incidental forage systems available. it could go in reverse if your buying feed in, so your software would need a quick means of reconnecting large networks of connections. I've used those connect the bubble presentation programs but they lack a database of elements you can template. permaculture seems to stack connections to the brink of stroke inducing revelation. the only thing I know of that emulates that many interdependent connections is 3d software n that's not simple or friendly at all.
what can I say but dumb it down for the client, n manage the clutter of stats internally to the degree you can handle, there's just no easy way to linearize life systems
moves at night are good, moving it 3 ft per day is better. I moved mine 5 feet once during the day n the bees were pissed, they swarmed the old spot for hours when there hive was 5 feet away. bees get angry with me at night cuzz there no as busy and everyone who defends the hive gets lost in the dark.
lindy they destroy by bulldozing, and rooting for bugs that flips plants. Large plants and deep mulch help allot, since ducks like muscovy are mostly looking for insect's when there smashing stuff. They do a good job when use's at times of the year, if you have creeks yeah they will generally come to the garden to nap n crap, just remember a sitting duck is bait for allot of things if you clip their wings. If you don't clip them your birds may fly south.
I think this guy has a case if he's on the record as stating his medicinal use to the employer prior to going into treatment. I get why their policy is nobody who "hypotheticaly" could be on drug's by virtue of having taken drugs outside of work can be on the machine, but it's no surprise to the company if he really told them, he's entitled to me moved from the heavy machinery job. But they fired him as if it was the discovery of a concealed social disorder of drug use. That's the issue I could support, regardless of the chosen drug
are you sure it's only 100 gallons of water you need to move? that's less than half a cubic meter of water, or are you saying per day you'd need to take that much load off. If your not going that far an extension cord for the outdoors isn't unreasonable so you could run a lower input pump for longer. I use an energy hog pump that couldn't be run on solar and it takes me an hour to fill a cubic meter tank = to 250 liters. That last me about 1 week in the greenhouse if it doesn't get any rain water off the roof. You could do it over longer with a smaller hose but solar is going to bite the dust on you in overcast weather without a battery store. if you can put in swales you most likely could build a 500 gallon pond in a day, and put multiple ponds along the back of the swales allowing you to slow the run down and store more for the drought. Dig a pond a weekend and in a month you could be holding much more water than you could manage to recycle by pumping it back up over an over when it's already wet. Pumping back up is not bad for trying to give the water another chance to infiltrate, maintenance of drip irrigation along the swale isn't worth it unless you had a large storage you were dripping from uphill all through the dry season. What you'd get out of more ponds/ mega micro dam is allot of micro climates, sun reflector's, increased humidity and water storage you could syphon down onto the lower swale makes the manual digging a minor input with a much greater output of multiple benefits. Throw a few feederfish into the ponds and you'll have no mosquito issues, and you have spots to stick aquatic plants in the summer. Even in my lawn I have dug holes and placed bathtub's in them in no time at all, just to add another water source for ducks, frogs, fish and plants.
I'm gunna try the rabbit's on it probably dried at first in volume then try it fresh and check for diarrhea, Creeping Buttercup is the least poisonous of the buttercups and would make a great forage and last into the winter.
http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicweeds/weed_information/weed.php?id=3 Although it is usually avoided by stock creeping buttercup is more palatable than the other buttercups and may be grazed. However, it can cause diarrhoea in sheep and cattle. Creeping buttercup is said to deplete the land of potassium and may have an allelopathic effect on neighbouring plants.
Creeping buttercup plants are attacked by a number of insects, fungi and grazing animals. Partridges, pheasants and wood pigeons eat the seeds. Chickens and geese readily eat the leaves. Creeping buttercup tolerates rabbit grazing but growth becomes more prostrate.
I was thinking that flax could be the coconut coir of the temperate zone in our potting mixes. I thought of steam blasting them and chopping up the fiber for potting soil so I'm not importing a product that should stay in the topics. But I don't know much about the flax economy, is the value added in refining it to linen pants or flax itself? flax oil ain't cheap and neither are pants, could its water holding capacity rival coir? or am I blaspheming flax?
Water logged acidity and low organic matter. There bad browse for mamals as it causes blisters, my rabbits of had some dried the ducks can eat it but only when starved of greens. They won't get it under control by any mean's, what you have is an opportunity for bee's right now between the early nectar sources and the late onces comes buttercup by the yellow droves to carry the bee's through a wet late spring when everything else that flower's is gone in a week. You can't mulch with buttercups unless you have a total soil barrier or have dried them severely, there a wonderful fire barrier but i've had plenty continue growing when thrown in a bucket that collected rainwater. They really can take inundation and drought really well. You might as well put bee's over it and get a honey yield cuzz bee's or no bees it's going to seed and grow insanely from the rhizomes. The only way i've found to to suppress it and their seeds is to solarize the ground for a summer then pull off to trigger germination then solarize it again all winter, but that's no broad scale solution. They can be anywhere between 6 inches to 2 feet tall depending on how happy they are, the only thing i've noticed seems to hold them back is potato's but you have to block their spring head start.
Your post is asking allot but you havn't given many clues. Where are you located? how can I know how much water corn needs if I don't know if you live in the desert.
It seems by your description that you've lucked into success and now abundance is backfiring. There's allot of things you could do but I don't know how most advice would mix with your experience, but there's no spray an insecticide then add 10-10-10 fertiliser solution right off the bat.
The ant's may no be harming your plants at all, they could be farming aphids which are the ones harming your plants. Depending on where you are, something like gardening successfully could be a monumental struggle depending on your ethics or as simple as drop a seed and walk away.
Are you working with native soil conditions? did you just dump a bag of sea soil into a garden box? Do you have animals? There's allot to think about if someone wants to give good advice, I don't want to shout out feeds the plants urine and spray the ant's with tobacco tea if when done wrong you could loose everything.
which of your questions do you want answered the most?
That's the goal of a charismatic orator who's suffers from megalomania, that's not the ultimate potential of someone with a gift for potency of mind and speech. To ignite people to think with a mind of their own chased by reason and ethics is the capacity of a true orator not just someone with swindling rhetoric.
someone will eventually show up that can answer your question. A PDC is as far as I can remember suppose to teach you how to think as a designer rather than excessively go into techniques of how to garden.
Raised bed's are a tool in permaculture but knowledge about raised bed's can be gleaned by allot of places or master gardening courses. Raising a bed is as old as terracing a slope, it's probably why it's taken for granted in permaculture as a given, but if someone has it in their background and becomes a teacher they could really get into it as a science.
I hope you find what your looking for, I don't know of anyone doing enough of what sepp does to theme a pdc the way sepp can. Allot of people do it, but not on any production level in the style sepp does at least in america. Best of luck though, it seems like most of us you just have to pick what interest you here and there from the strongest sources. I don't think anyone could answer a complex question that was meant for sepp, nobody has being doing it that long or on that large of a scale to actually know what happens.
hand dug earth dam's that should sort you out step by step, everyone says bentonite without factoring the cost for the volume you need buy and compact into the soil. It's not something you sprinkle and fill, if you can't afford a backhoe you can't touch bentonite.
Gley lining is the answer that's probably not ready for you, you've got the structural issues to deal with before dealing with will it hold water. I've been growing catails in bathtubs i dug into the earth, cattails can invade down to 3 feet or grow well in 2 inches.
All you have to do is take that earthen dam video and simplify it for ponds since the scale is so much smaller.