I took it all apart, but this machine was only used for 2-3 yrs before the family got a tractor, so everything was still quite nice. I will say it's a lot to take apart and get lined back up. I would call them barrel type roller bearings.
My tractor is a 1957 farmall cub, so speed will be less of a factor than if pulling with a modern tractor! It's slow!
Ok, because I seem to be the only punk rocker in the permie space......this is my favorite punk song that also has a save the planet theme, a lot of punk bands are politically and anti society minded, but the early 2000s sort of stepped that up a bit....NOFX Franco-unamerican
The islands on the south west of Ireland get a good sea wind....
So the thatching was laid then a rope with two rocks would hand across the whole roof in a grid system, I've seen rocks on top and rocks hanging down a foot or two from the facia. So the other side of the roof has the same thing so that the whole system is balanced...
I too am a trench and burry edges guy, it is the fastest cheapest and most effective method as there is no under for the wind to enter. The only time it will blow off is in a crazy wind due to high and low air pressure, and we are talking 75 mph plus winds.
Looking at dragging this with a tractor I thought well I don't need the bracket for the doubletree, but thanks to David Stienbach for asking because that distributes the tension.....so I got an aftermarket draft bracket and rod......it chain it to the hitch till I get horses....
Thanks for the catch David!! You saved my tongue socket from busting!
From that German wheel I got a few weeks back, this way I can concentrate on construction and the ratios are all figured out for me....
I was trying to pie your meat smithing thread, at the same time you pied me, it wouldn't let me, might be a time delay thing.....I went to make sure I had pie and saw yours on the list.....well, that might be why!
Yes, handle making is very time consuming! I get in a wierd place where it's never good enough and spend a day fooling with it!
I would cut the bottom sharp points off with a saw and give her a try! Did you wedge it at the top?
I usually start with a handle, use it, change it, use it, change it, each time refining it to fit me and the work......yours looks like a great start! It will serve you well! The one thing I would do is cut behind the beard so you can get fingers in there, that way you can choke up for small cleanup jobs.
Be observant to what the tool and your body is saying as you work, that's the best teacher.
Hand tool use is far superior in both the finished product and the ability to teach the user. Unfourtunately it is a part of tradeswork that has been in decline for a long time, and I don't see the youth picking it up in great numbers....
One of the most beautiful things about hand tools is that there are so many regional differences in history, each area met the same challenges in different wood and with different materials to make tools with. However the similarities to how the different regions answered the same questions with how they constructed the tools that were used by tradesmen is remarkable.......
I figured I might still need a board, but I was gleefully hopeful!
My gasket came out in one piece and is still quite thick and plyable so I put it in again (more hopefulness) if I need to replace it I will likely use a sheet of closed cell foam and cut out a new one.
When I bought this it had a stub tongue set up for tractor drag, I will likely make a new tractor hitch and stub it a bit longer. Then get a new tongue when I get ahold of some horses. I don't like it but......
All he had were pre painted tongues I would rather an ash tongue be tongue oiled, the original purpose for that oil......but there will be time for that, I might even run it through the jointer to clear the paint.....anyway, it's done! If we get the property it will be put to use!
The bolts are a combo of countersunk and carriage bolt so that they sit flush on the bottom they are sickle bar bolts purpose designed.
I'll get the info on the sections, he said he cuts 5 acres of hay and after 2 years they are still sharp. But he said no one sharpens them because of the shape of the bevel, I'm gonna try with a round file.
The three open guards at the inside of the bar allow you to cut and lay the grass without the grass board, this way it all dries more evenly than having that end piled up by the board.
I make handles, even if you find one it will be one you need to adjust for the flat side, buy buying one will make it easier for sure. Do what you are comfortable with, there is no one way is right.
File if you have a ton to remove for sure, start with the stone after it is sharp from the file, and get it sharper, then flip the stone and get it sharper, then get 400 grit sandpaper and wrap it around a flat chunk of wood and do it all again. That's probably good but you can go 600 grit and beyond too.
The diamond stuff you can get later to make it easier, what you have will do fine.
Oh sharpen the flat side too, so it is polished flat, perfect sharpness is two perfect planes meeting if the back is rough you will never get sharp, because one of your planes is ruining it.... If you look at the thin edge and it reflects back at you on its edge it is dull, it should be a black line because there is no flat spot to reflect...