Looked at that council axe....is it sharpened on both sides? If so, that's your problem for sure, one side should be perfectly flat even where the eye the handle fits in is....that's a requirement, in fact you can buy new ones as left or right side axes, with the flat on opposite sides.
A broad axe is for vertical hewing an adz is for horizontal hewing, the slick is a joint plane and all around workhorse that is like a huge chisel.
This is how I sharpen, I didn't have enough hands to do it so I clamped the axe in my legs....but I sight down the blade from above and run the stone back to front and circular return stroke, it can take time, especially to get it there the first time, this back up axe will take 4 hours to sharpen because it is super dull.
Drawknife for making handles, or buy them if possible, I have seen guys whittle handles and sand them smooth.
Here is a quick top view sketch of the V notch I am talking about, the dotted line being your snapped line, you see the notches are progressively larger as the amount to be removed increases....then just use the normal axe to pop the blocks off and the v will keep you from ruining the finish, but you can waste the main part of the wood to be removed fast....
I highly suggest an old axe like say a Wedgeway or other high quality antique, I'll put a picture up of my backup Wedgeway, you can get them on eBay fairly often, just try to get a clean one that doesn't look like it was buried for years! Get one without a handle as the handle is junk and just costs more shipping, or ask them to cut the handle off. I got mine for $63 and my backup for 54 I think, I keep backups of old tools, because I am a tool addict and I don't want to not have one when I need it.
If new is the only option, Gransfors Bruks is the best out there, and biber Classic is right up there, traditional woodworker sells biber.
I quit the stone a while back and use a diamond stone instead, it moves the metal faster and stays flat so no lapping required. Still takes time.....
I move logs with a tractor to a staging area, then by can't hook from there, I peel as I roll the final feet to the supports, that way I roll the log less times.
Go to a v notch instead of scoring chops, this will reduce time, but hewing isn't the fastest way to arrive at a beam, it does take time, and a youthful back!
I use old axes and new, and different shaped ones, because they all do something good but not everything, I have some that like knotty wild grain, some that are trouble all day in that same log, but are sweet fir straight grain clear logs.
So here is a picture of my backup crew and my new framing slick, this is an old Wedgeway broad axe, and a plumb brand shipwrights adz both were eBay cheap buys just wait till one is going cheap and grab it. The slick I made...
Are you using a string line to locate your hewn surface, that helped me when I was starting. Also chop stop cuts to depth then remove the wood between, then use the broad axe as a skew chisel to get your final smooth surface........if you want details on these let me know, not sure you might already be doing them...
Hewing is the imperfections that are arrived at while striving for perfection. I know some old guys who border perfection!
Do you have a draw knife? There is a technique called chasing a ring, where you remove one or more growth rings and follow the growth of the tree rather than applying your will to the shape. This could allow you to harvest in spring and remove a number of rings leaving a winter wood ring as the exterior ring. Thereby slipping bark easily, having the toughness you seek, and removing the sugary spring cambium layer......but let's wait for an expert.....
I just see a big head being heavy, and going from a big heavy head pressing on the nerve to a big heavy head working to relieve pressure on the nerve. I am sure it is better the more body wieght that is above the effected area, but I can't see the harm in trying it if the pain is that great.....right?
I find myself wondering if one of those inverting deals would help relieve pressure, like the kind you strap your ankles in and hang upside down......even if it's temporary relief I bet it would be worth it.....?
Well no matter how much I sharpened it it still had a crown and I wanted it nice and flat, so I took it to my friends sharpening shop and he machine sharpened it. Then over to another friend who makes tack for horse drawn equipment and we played around with a sheath for it......I think it is officially done now! The pouch that it fits into has Branding mark in the leather, I thought that was cool, they won't use that for tack so......
I'm in western PA, we are in fact in M worm country, so that's that
M worms and cocci are able to affect sheep also, but it's not as scary as it sounds if you know what to do.
Goats get a tolerance to cocci over their lives, mostly get trouble in high stress times like weaning, travel, etc
Having meds on hand is important, and makes all the difference.
M worm is easy to do preventative measures for, again just being aware and having the right meds.
There are several goat forums that have vet techs and really well experienced people there all the time, it would be worth joining one to learn and for if you have an issue, because they are all goat focused answers come fast and reliable info is shared. I am on two, both have very trustworthy help available, fast.
meningeal Worm is a concern where we are, it is carried by deer, and needs slugs to complete its lifecycle....unfourtunately the drugs that control it are off label for goats, meaning they are intended for other livestock. So I would consult a vet about treatment and prevention.
Half acre is about a 100x100 foot area, they should be fine, mine are on 50x50 ft and there are two small mud spots, In front of the barn door from in and out traffic, and in the spot they stand and watch me work.
I suggest letting them out to browse around occasionally, goats don't mow grass like sheep, they prefer the brushy bits.
I see this as being at someone's house, if you curse in front of their kids they may ask you not to, and talk to their children about that was not within the house rules....
Difference is that no one says " hey kid I can say ( curse) if I want to and it's not right for your mom to stop me."
I think also if you do something wrong, it's not personal, just accept it and move on.......I think forgiveness is abound here, unless there is some auto kick out thing that exists...for some terrible choice or another....