Alison I know what you mean about stubborn animals I had a tread going for ages in a colony rabbit forum called "angry rabbits" they would shake there feeder until all the food fell onto the floor, then they'd poo on it and give me the feed me look.
Try a few drops of molasses on their dry feed, if they go for it with no additives you can build there familiarity to surgary goodness before adding in the beneficial elements that are masked by a little sweetness. In the end to I realized the store bought pellets had sugar added and my home made pellets didn't, once i mad pellets with a little bit of goodness added they ravaged the pellets into their tummies and got big and strong and produced great litters.
Ali, you already have the answer but I think you read the recipe wrong
Pat colby taught me this one
copper sulfate "de-worm", flowers of sulfur "acid", apple cider vinegar "acid", animal dolomite "alkaline", kelp meal "iron + trace minerals", rock dust "minerals and of course "MOLASSES" you mix that all up with boiling hot water till its really well blended, then add it to either pollard or watever they eat that will soak it up.
Even my rabbit's and ducks get that recipe everyday except I use it as the moisture content when im making pellets rather than force ducks to eat it poured all over ground wheat. They hate it that way but they still ate it in a day back when my ducks use to flop over and go lame from anemia. Now it's not even remotely an issue. If a duckling goes lame it's usualy garlic water for 3 days, but again that's before i started putting it in the pellets.
I don't know where that Pat Colby recipe comes from the tell you the truth, Geoff Lawton taught it to me in the permaculture soils dvd "which is on youtube" if your looking for proportions.
When things are beyond that recipe I'm most likely going to live and die by Juliette de Bairacli Levy - Grandmother of herbal medicine.
Complete Herbal Handbook For Farm And Stable <------ thats all you need if it ruminates, she has other books for dog's and people and kids and so on. All that can happen is you don't have the herb worse case, and can't figure out a substitute or think deep enough to see what the parallel herb is in your climate.
She's the real deal, she's lived life the way you have to for the wisdom to radiate from your bones. I think you can tell i love her...............
heres a trailer for her movie, i went forever on just what I learned from the movie before even buying the books.
You really got to fight that urge to want yields so soon, i was on the brink of buying goats, then when i herd how long it would take before i could brag about cheese things got hairy. I started looking for that mother child combo with an extra female to breed right away.
Everything I came across sounded suspect, always the same old "too many animals" reason for selling. It's not that you have to be a goat expert to get a great deal in life but really how much effort do you want to put into a new creature just so you can get the yield.
There's allot of sloppy things breeders do, that a week's worth of wormwood and rosemary would solve but it might require you to read an entire book in 1 few nights to have that kind of info on your side. I want to say go for it, I wanna go for it if I was in your position but it's about your ability to overcome todays handicaps tomorrow. If that's the kind of go getter you are dive in, nobody is going to sell their best animals just because. I went through the same thing with my rabbits, i had no idea after a month of waiting for a top breeder to find me a rabbit she'd normally cull id also have to wait 5 months for them to breed. When the time finally arrived nobody did anything time after time. I started feeding them apple cider vinegar and everyone got preggers and have turned out to be great mothers and friendly after spending 5 months being angry, skittish and biting rabbits.
So i think you can do allot to turn any creature around if you got the gut's to wrack your brains over them and crawl around in thorny bushes looking for some weed that could save the day. But if your just looking for goat's to put on pasture and manage themselves, the way you describe the situation is making me nervous.
Nervous because I too have F'ded up bigtime thinking with my heart not my head, i'm so glad i didn't get those goat's i don't think i could do them due service given my situation 80% of our pasture is made of a poisonous weed that even blisters the skin on the indestructible goat.
Thank God, i wonder what the heff's with the link i found stating 45 dollar's worth will do 1 pound, I really hope I read it wrong maybe it was one pound of inoculate with no stated application rate. I'm sorry if I misread it it's been a long weekend of dry plucking, evisceration, offal pressure cooking and dog food sausage making. To top that off I think I burnt my dinner of dry aged duck.
Did anyone ever find a link for somewhere selling kudzu root in canada or even the us?
I need something to fight this wisteria, my bee's don't need it and my ducks and rabbit's could sure use the kudzu where nobody can use the wisteria. Dam vine killed my hopes and has gone up 50 ft and smothered one of my pine tree's. I wish i had kudzu to hold back the blackberry and invasive mints aswell.
What? 45 dollars of inoculant for a pound of lupin beans, what are they selling you a quarter teaspoons worth? Something doesn't make sense there a billions of bacteria in the packet, are you mixing it with water and then sloshing the seeds in it or you applying it dry?
I'm all for cutting out the MAN but something doesn't sound right about your application rate, I checked out windcrestorganics.com and saw that BS they put on there site to sell more "overpriced inoculate". The average application rate of most inoclate's that cost 2 bux is 8-16 pounds.
I don't know why my google searches arn't turning up any australian sites selling lupini rhizomes, they carry that stuff in the average feed store like we do bean rhizomes. Whover windcrestorganic's is seems to have cornered the internet search market and has gone way too far in there profit ethics.
I'm sorry I havn't been able to find an alternative site to point you to but 45 dollars vs 2 dollars, 1 pound vs 16 pounds somethings just wrong. It's like they've gone to the trouble to reproduce a packet of rhizobium and want to retire off of it. I've got a few lupins that are on their 4 year in the same spot, maybe I should dig up some roots, pop of some nitrogen nodules and fire up the pressure cooker.
There something weird about north america, i find anything the eco fascist deem invasive seems to always have a clamp on seed availability. Pampass grass seeds at 100,000 seeds per head, but if I buy a see pack of pampass grass for 4 dollars theres 10 seeds in it, as if it was collected at the tip of a volcano or something.
I don't even want to ask what you paid for the lupin seed's but for god sakes don't spend that 45 bux. There must be another common name for lupin why the google searches are coming up so empty.
I wouldn't stress about it if it's been composted properly, if he's got 30 horse chomping through pesticide city who's really screwed?
What I would be worried about is if the horses have been heavily de-wormed and the manure is not composted properly you could really wipe out what worms you do have in the soil.
It's why I wont feed horse manure to my worm bins, because I might never know. Mind you if you have yourself a tractor or a backhoe you could make a killer windrow or heap of compost with the horse manure to really rev up the organism's before you lay it out broadscale.
I know how you feel about being desperate to add life to the soil but if you have the means you could re-mediate any nasty's with an 18 day compost and have a more amplified effect than manure alone. I don't know where the worms come from but after a good hot compost your looking at 10 to 30 worms per square foot being added to your soil vs feeding the worms that are or are not in the ground. Either way your making positive moves, don't discount the an-entropic effects of life working for you day and night even if you "could" loose some beans in the shorterm.
If you don't plan on teaching anytime soon why take a pdc just for the sake of ticking a things to do box. It's one thing to take a local pdc because of how it leverages your education with your bio region, but you want to be able to see the land with a designers eyes when choosing property. I don't know if your planning on changing your living to fulltime farming or just living out in the stix as off grid as you can while still working. A heavy pdc by some international wrecking balls like Bill Mollison himself and Geoff Lawton is on a completely different level than digesting a "permaculture principles" course.
If your going hard like that you might have the warbucks for peter lawtons system, it's mainly the flood trays that save on water and manage the plants that set's them apart. The elite roots system produced by 3d pots are bar none the best way to go into nursery production for yourself or in surplus sales, I'm look at this for myself. I can't imagine being able to produce competitively and buying in another growers tree's you don't know, I dont even see it as frugal but simply critical. Check out this video of the scale he's working on in his home setup, 10 racks to me is a serious small scale system. Being able to grow tree's on to the advanced stage without root retardation is just another level of certainty you can operate on that others can't.
I was pretty exited when I saw the thread topic and it came with a youtube link. Even the titling of the video made me thing this was it, terracing in the tropics first hand footage. But then I saw how short the video was and how it was an illustrative guideline, then I got pretty sad.
There terracing in the temperate on smooth grazed treeless hills and that's great, then there terracing in the tropics where things are allot more jungly and unstable on slopes. Allot of south east asia has mastered working with karst limestone, super sharp, super brittle, super sinkholes. I'been searching years for just a glance at how they do it.
Maybe someday itle turn up on youtube but todays not the day. I tried googling the dr's name to see if there where real pictures anywhere, but the name is too common and i'm getting nothing. Do you have any additional links?
I've seen those numbers before, but it's not clear as the difference between aged and fresh urine. The aging should make enough of a difference to where the fertilizer might be more of a balanced soil boost than a grow juice fertilizer.
The one thing I haven't figured out, and that's probably because of being mathematically deficient but how do I equate mg's to potency? I know the #-#-# represents ratio in regards to each other, but i'm trying to wrap my head around a liter of urine to 100 sq ft is = mild, medium, or large dose.
I've never been an npk guy so I don't really know what's strong or not, just what will or wont burn, I've never trusted those powder npk soil test so just because it says adequate it doesn't really say for corn vs dandelions. This might be something I can only find going through hydroponics literature, they seem to be pretty gung ho about steroids so there probably pretty precise with there measurements. I'm thinking of the time i read curly leaf equals too much nitrogen, then thing of 5 days prior when leaves where turning yellow so I sprayed. I assumed its diluted because it was an irritant not because it might be overloaded with nitrogen, but now I have to wonder if 2 liter's urine x 16 litres of water, is way to much for a 10x16 greenhouse. I don't really want to wait for things to turn yellow in order to feed, but I don't want my plants smoking crack either. I gotta search the net im sure somewhere it's going to say 1kg to the acre and i'll be able to do the math from there.
One thing I picked up from the article that I didnt know but recognized from last year when I was just learning and putting it on too strong. Curly leaf is a sign of too much nitrogen, it goes fully after 2 weeks but that's what taught me to age urine and back off the concentration if I can't avoid foliar feeding. The nasa doc was pretty cool but they went to far with the math when I was just begging for a list of content's by percentages and then by mg's. I'm going to re-read it when i can focus on the descriptive of the content's rather than just a list of elements. I like the aging bring things down to 1:1:1 in theory, id much rather digest sheet mulch into compost, and have that slow release to the soil than dump and run and have plants get upset.
pickling urine is as easy as pickling anything. It's just the lacto fermentation recipe with no solids. 4 litre's of urine, mix with a quarter cup of whey, quarter cup molasses, and a cup of water. The urine provides the salt that id normally add to the pickle jar, and the sugar is to feed the lacto b. short term. In bokashi terms I'm still using way to much whey from an inoculate perspective but i always lean on the side of overkill. I stoped putting the worm lechate into it as I found it would fizz for 3 or so days and Id have to burp it like the normal lacto fermentation process. I leave the jug's near the heater for 3 days to a week so the bacteria's well in peak performance temperature's before storing them outside indefinitely. This all came out of using "liquid bokashi starter" to spray animal bedding to stop the ammonia and digest the bedding and manure, which worked so well I thought why not use it on urine, it can't be much different than the bacteria that work in aquaponic systems if it's arresting nitrites and turning them into nitrates.
There is salt, but by the time you dilute the stuff 10:1 with water for application it's nothing to stress, and must of the crystal particles collect at the bottom of the jug so just don't use the last bit in the spray mix.
So I finaly found a pylon cost me 20 dollars, and as soon as I paid for it I felt like ugh how did I end up here. The cones I made from sheet metal failed as they were to small for the drakes, so I cut an opening in the extra large pylon and thankfully the drake did fit. Bad news, the drake who had been clawing me to pieces walked backwards out of a 3 foot long cone and left while I was getting ready. Maybe chickens are different, but with the claws of a muscovy the rubber of a pylon is like sticky boots.
I just mentioning this for posterity in case 5 years from now someone reads a post on pylon's for waterfowl, it doesn't work without a sheet metal lining........
stale urine doesn't become stale urine if you pickle it with lactobacillus and molasses, it doesn't go into an ammonia state and gas off or explode the jug your storing it in like urine can. I've be refining the ratios in the recipe all winter and have safely directly applied it as a foiliar spray, because soaking just the soil is impossible unless its through drip irrigation. Mind you the pickling does bring the ph down to about 4.5 so it's best to grind up some eggshell into the jug to buffer the acid and add calcium to the feed.
I'll never get enough fresh urine within the window of fresh to get anything done broadscale. But you could feed a greenhouse off fresh, but it still wreaks and nobody will want to work in the room, I didn't like using it at all when I started but the pickled urine just smells like moderately sweet and faintly like urine at a distance.
What say you? i've been through all the urine threads and theres allot of regurgitating of warnings based on other website which are regurgitating undocumented warnings. All the stuff I read about large scale community urine collection for use on farms, they aged their urine to starve pathogen's, never using fresh off gassing urine which requires soil bacteria to convert it into a form that can stabilize the nitrogen.
Outdoor's during the winter I spray my mulch with the same urine, whey, molasses, worm leachate mix to break down the hay over winter. I no longer use leachate in the greenhouse mix, I found it would break down any decaying organic matter like lightning. Any plant that was weak disappeared into white fuzz and into the soil in 2 weeks, and all the healthy plants grew on just fine right beside grey fuzz. I do like it as a test for resistance to diseases for seed saving, but I'm not a fan for how quickly it show'd me how weak 1/3rd of some species where.
Well keyline plowing goes back to black and white photos, the wallace plow was the largest selling agricultural implement in Australia in the 80's. In regards to how much or how little they work well there's to many factors to make some sort of salesman's pitch about it, hillside vs valley swales on an on. I was mainly looking at what most permaculture enthusiast fail to be logical about, the downsides that can produce failure and swale blowout's is addressed in detail in the G.Lawton B.Mollison pdc, There's allot that if you overlook something as simple as a cattle track above your swale is enough to blow out the walls in a serious storm which nobody can say doesn't occur in their situation. If you want to wet up ridges a keyline rip line is just enough water, but I wouldn't send a 1 meter wide 12 inches deep swale full of water towards 1 singular point in a swale. Swales don't work if there not level they just become a drainage ditch, the best of both worlds seems to be more of the worst of both downsides. If only the land underground was as uncomplicated as the academic presentation on how water will infiltrate soil.
I think the knee jerk reaction stems from not living in a bio region where feral cats can be the dominant species. I could never understand a world in which my house chihuahua roams the street's of mexico in mobs scavenging and playing up a rabid storm. But as a permaculturist I know it exist, allot of tropical countries have the same problem with goats. I've also herd Bill Mollison say there's two things you should never keep on a farm and that's peacocks and goats, but if you miss the context in which he's saying it the wisdom he's speaking from could be considered absurd. Especially when he's said it in the lecture on goat forages, working cat's into permaculture when it comes to the outdoor's is simply up to somebody else who doesn't have evidential reasons against cats given there circumstances. A free range cat kennel of pedigree hunting cats could be a money maker.
It sound like a plausible fusion but the problem that jumps out is with attempting to infiltrate more on the ridge. Depending on the soil type it would seem the best way to soak in more where it's needed, but it doesn't address blowout's in the uncompacted swale wall during event rainfalls. You only have to have 1 in a year to domino all the swale walls downhill in the same place. A much more practical approach would be to put event rainfall compacted spillways on the swale when the water reaches a peak holding capacity at the ridges, staying on contour has to do more with the greater purpose of filling dams. If your in a situation where you have high drainage soils then his approach wouldn't be as dangerous in producing a swale wall breach.
Swales are a tree growing system, I think keyline is a better pasture system.
The two don't fight, they just occupy different niches.
Juliette de Bairacli cured 3000 sheep of black scour with green herbs, milk and molasses.
In Ethnoveterinary medicines used for ruminants in British Columbia, Canada.
Lans C., Turner N., Khan T., Brauer G., Boepple W.
Journal of ethnobiology and ethnomedicine 2007
They list slippery elm, white willow, Dill, Marshmallow, plantago - plantain, pot marigold, stinging nettle, Pacific Silverweed.
Juliette's skill are extensive so green herbs just doesn't cut it without a list when your talking to the matriarch of western herbal medicine.
Neem "not that I would want to drink the water after" " stops metamorphosis"
Garlic "that I could tolerate drinking as medicinal water" I've seen it work somewhat with mosquito's but maybe I didn't have enough garlic in the water.
Try this documentary about earthen dam's built in india by hand.
Dam building with no dam experience is really hard to pick up from books and youtube snippets. Everything is happening to quickly when your watching a timelapse of an excavator, nobody stops to detail any why's.
After year's of hoping a video would demystify the process for me I finaly found one, and it's got such great fundamentals that everything else can be expanded out from there.
unfortunately there is no diy trick to it, I mulled and mulled and bit the bullet and bought a small scale hammer and pellet mill. The recipes and the artistry of pellet making is something else all together.
I'm only soso self sustaining animal feed from last season but that has more to do with my failings than what can be produced in the space.
What I found about drying forage, milling it down and packaging it into food units was the astonishing amount of forage I could include. So many things that the ducks don't have the bill for, or the rabbit's can't get there nibblers through.
The first shocker was the ducks can eat the entire Jerusalem artichoke plant and the rabbit's will eat the entire blackberry plant. Now normally each would only take the leaf but the stem would be ignored, due to thorns or shape unless it was really green and soft.
After that everything else I could find in the yard fell in line, all of the nasturtium plant, pea vines, radish stems, squash vine, sweet potato vine, mustard plant, lemon balm plant, all mint family vines, bindweed, weeds, dandelion, plantain, buttercups, maple leaves. On and on the only real ingredient that shades the mix towards rabbits is the amount of alfalfa and mint, they really go for it, the ducks aren't mammals so buttercups don't poison there mouth.
All I can get my hands on is mixed with what I can't at the moment, wheat, barley, oats, corn, pea seeds, black sunflower, flax, canola meal. After that it's just rock dust, copper sulfate, flowers of sulfur, powdered eggshell, kelp powder, apple cider vinegar, molasses, non chlorinated water and whey to wet down the dried greens to the right moisture content. As the season's gone on the recipe's change based on what I have available or at this time of year have to buy in, so I don't make the best pellets yet and i've learned my lesson about seal containers vs paper bags. If it's too most the pellet can start to bokashi because of the yeasts and lacto b. It still can be fed out as more of a silage but it becomes that layer mash stuff for the ducks, and the rabbit's revolt and shake it all out of there trays.
In the summer they get what they get fresh when we can give it, but I don't trust us when it comes to being habitual with attention. One clutch of egg's get's hacked and we fuss and toss green's twice a day by the 3rd clutch where too busy digging a swale or something. I don't think it's ethical to keep animals and not provide them the highest degree of optimal conditions one has within their capability. If i had known more when i first started they would be able to freerange 90% of their diet. Maybe this year but I don't know, so for me I chose pellets as my best way to serve them, hopefully they will use them less and less over time but at 28% protein for sunchoke stems vs buying corn, i'm giving my ducklings the best start by giving them pellets and bugs.
This season i'll do allot better in production and therefor in self reliance of feed. The hardest part so far was building a rocket stove dehydrating room on the front of the house, without drying there would be no storage, and the time it takes to dry vs how long the feed last says i'm going to have to build a hayloft of sort's to store bagged greens over the entire season. I feed around 18 ducks for about 6 weeks with 1 day of pellet making but it takes 3-4 days to gather and process the goods. So I've got to process more so i'm at around 5 days work to 8 weeks of duck and rabbit food. Hopefully my bunnies will be an edible weight before they really start chomping into the adult food.
I wish this app would allow for drawing path's instead of squares, roof water's great but even the crude box i drew in front of my swale says i'm in the market for 200k L of water. I don't even want to consider that true but I'm terrified it's true at 1500mm of rain per year. I'm trying my hardest this winter to shove as much of it underground as I can, but I know she's still running off. I dug a 3 by 10 foot hole about 3 feet deep, I don't know why the ducks told me to I guess. It had a trickle of water coming in last night. This morning it's full and I didn't even get a chance to think about grading it or compacting it, the thing is already spilling down the hill once again. I get the feeling an afternoon with an excavator and I could really put a quarter acre dam in, but I think my landlord might finally figure out i'm trying to put 15% of his property underwater.
Yay Heritage Breeds, I'm also with Dave on the Giant Chinchilla scene thanks to dave.
Dave one side note I finally did get my rabbits to breed and they turned out to be great moms with no help from me. But my bunnies are only 3 at most 4 weeks old, and they've been chomping into hay for over a week and I caught a guy a the pellet tray two days ago. I don't think these guys are going to drink milk for 3 months, do you have any pictures of what size they appear to be when you harvest? I herd there digestion wont go for fresh forage even if though it can handle hay so Im keeping it to my homemade pellets n hay for the moment. Is fresh forage what you meant by when to harvest?
It appears giant chin's are the 7th most rare breed, at one point does one try to shift to spreading the breed via pet sales rather than rearing the breed for destructive purposes. I can say I raise giant chin's but i can go from having 20 rabbits back down to 3 parents in 1 processing day. Where if I was able to sell rabbits at 50 dollars a bunny i could theoretically get more for the rabbit and not have to eat it. I didn't know rabbit lovers where specific about the rabbits they keep so I figured nobody would care that G. Chin's are rare when theres so many rescued rabbits out there that need homes.
I don't have a tirolesa sprayer yet, but I plan to in the future for monolithic dome construction. But to those who have has anyone tried using it for broadcast seeding? I wondered if the exit shute was big enough, as I presume the velocity would get seeds decently into the soil vs hand tossing. At first I was thinking hydroseed posibilities but the muck it distributes is more a sludge pump task.
I drew up a crewed version of my stove setup, it's all done with stove pipe, as that's what makes it portable, i only had to cut two holes in the barrel lid for gas in and gas out. What's not in the drawing is the metal stand I have it all proped up on or the pavement slabs I have boxing in the combustion area and the backfill of rocks to slow the heat down.
I also noticed in one of the austrian sepp video's I watched, Sepp doesn't de tusk his pigs, he says it's there most important digging tool. But what I couldn't see from the videos is does he castrate his boar's. He's raised some pretty wild animals so I wondered if his view translated to the pork he raises.
It will work, i built a rocket stove dehydrating room, and it's a pretty drafty affair seeing how I used salvaged roofing and glass walls. It was a brutal first construction for a single person to do with two metacarpal fractures in their hand after falling off a roof in a midnight canopy building session.
With all the unisulated walls of glass, and gaps in the roof the room dry's at 86-95 F. If i didn't have all that glass the tempurature would be even higher, the outside temps were around 50f at harvest times, the only thing you might have an issue with is the excessive loss of humidity over time but if your in a sauna for more than 2 hours you've probably passed out and are on your way to the next life. The rooms 8 feet wide by 16 feet long, that's a pretty swank sauna and i build it over gravel so I know I broke allot of insulation rules and it still works. One note my rocket stove is uninsulated and vents under a deck floor so all the heat is lost to the air on purpose. It's configured to burn pellet's and is disasemblable in about 50 mins. So if your not renting like I am you can be way more efficient and do something permanent.
I've done that, i'm sad to say I did 1/4th an acre of that on a 30 degree slop. I terraced the eroded hill with that and stuck it with every sprout seed they sold at the health food store. I can't believe it worked and the bee's went crazy, and the ducks and rabbits have been eating the dried and pelleted cover crops all winter. The manure won't grow every seed i put in it, but it sure grows radish and mustard's like a wall. There was over 1000 slugs that came out of it, that wasn't great but i brought down 700 of them and I was astonished. Somebody had plasticized the hill and grew tree's that plastic is 8 inches down, under it is powdered sand and over it is 8 inches of pine mulch soil that grows nothing and can hold no water. Out of it grew fierce salmon berry that i cut down, pulling up the plastic and laying the really aged practically potting soil if no so crusty dirt flat out 4 inches thick really changed things quick for something I did in july. The radishes and brassica ground cover push on into the winter and are cut and come again until the ducks stamp it out. Now it can be mulched with none manure carbon and I have an instant garden that will be loaded with compost corridors for the spring.
Now this is starting to evolve into something really exciting. I just got my second email on this subject aparently theres a large goverment rebate program in the US that ends tomorow so their trying to get everyone interested on the monolithic email list to put a deposit down to qualify for the rebate. Here's some text from the email, I never was totaly clear when something declair's it can do "#KW" I think they mean how much it can generate per hour but I'm never sure if they mean per day.
The wind turbine is built to set up on top of your dome and produce no sound into the
dome itself. The wind turbines come in 5kW to 250kW. They are going to average
something in the neighborhood of $3.25 per kW. So you need to give us an approximate
size of what you want.
Approximate size is measured at average high wind speed in your location. If you are
building a 50' dome you are probably limited to 10kW to 20kW if you are putting it on a
100' dome you are probably limited to 100kW to 250kW depending on your location and
wind speed. 250kW is as large as we want to take on one of these advance orders.
“But,” one may ask, “what’s the difference between putting a windmill on a dome to putting it on a rock pile? Can’t be that different!”
“Nay, nay,” I say. There is a huge difference.
In the late 1990s through the early 2000s, Dr. Morris Boughtin did extensive experiments resulting in conclusive proof: moving wind over a smooth dome increases its speed. That’s because the wind has to travel farther, so it speeds up as it goes over the dome.
That’s about a 25% speed increase that translates into about double the pressure on windmill blades. In other words, going over the dome, the wind has about twice the power it would have going along side of the dome.
This is so kickass for dome owners, I'm not terribly sure how it would work for earth domes, but that's more to do with the size of those domes in comparison to the cost of mounting on the structure safeless. But here are some links to the monolithic article and the company that builds the turbines.
Does anyone with a track record in wind turbines want to critique this time of wind generator? I will eventualy be setting up in an area that has seasonal hurricanes and when i look at the max wind speeds of the average wind turbines i see online they will all rip off and kill a cow during an average tropical storm.
The great thing about most toxic plants is their poison's are usualy suited to their predators. I have a plant called buttercup which gives blisters in the mouth "Only to Mammals" the ducks have been trained to chomp it down, I have a jungle of mint family plants which ducks wont touch but RABBITS come down hard on. There's a terribly poinsonous plant at the edge of the property called giant hogweed, it can leave your skin burnt for years after contact, but the shoots are edible for just a few weeks all i'm missing is a hog.
Its crazy how with enough research almost everything has it's match. In the case of Datura it could be "stoners"
12 bucks for an ounce of seeds, it toxic but not aleopathicaly toxic like watering your garden with soaked fresh cedar juice. It's mainly a matter hallucination and anything that can do that has the potential for overdose.
The worse i can imagine is it wigging out soil life but you could probably get arrested if your slurry was that strong. If it came in through horse manure and it was as bad as imagine there should be a dead horse to go along with it.
Everyone lives in different relation to their animals, the downside of decapitation is a matter of shock i supose, damage to the carcass with uncontrolled flailing, and total shutdown of the blood pumping out sufficiently. It's the same reason you don't cut the windpipe but only the veins. There's not a great deal of sensation when we have major rapid blood loss even people can describe it as light headed and then blackout. Decapitation seems instant enough but nobody's lived to tell. I prefer to master the low to no adrenaline dispatch, even being placed in the cone itself reduces stress in comparison to being grabbed by the neck and shoved flat on the stump.
I'm not really after what to do in a pinch, i do fine in a pinch. I'm looking at what I can do for my birds from the start of their life to the end of their life.
Well it sounds like your trying to attract the right questions so that you can give a brief to yourself of your idea's and what's implementable or realistic compared to what's not.
I guess you kind of have to start back at the basics of water, access, structure before really getting buzzing on plant's, techniques, and capacity.
You being on a pre existic farm I would presume you have access to implements others wouldn't. What are your earth working equipment capacities like. Do you have leeway when it comes to the cultural condition of your family. Something as simple as what constitutes a pleasing to see raised bed varies greatly.
find a local practicing permaculture designer, it's pretty much like hiring a mentor. You've got design idea's but you may not have the experience of strategy or implementation, it's not a bad thing it's a I don't want an acre of bean blights because I did to much work or work at the wrong time. The forum's are great, but nobody is responsible there's no seeing you succeed or fail. Sometimes it's allot of people shouting you should do what I do, and yes when your lucky a tidbit of advice can turn your world around but you can't make them come online later and answer follow up questions. You can even use another practicing designer to figure out where your idea's stand on comparison to what else is being implemented for real people who only have this as their source of income. It's allot different when you really trying to farm vs garden, life's just not hinging on things in the same way. Gardening is more exciting especially if your the permaculture experimentalist type, homesteading is the great middle road, you run your farm like a garden.
Anyone have an experience in how deep can leftover sunchokes in the ground can be mulched without giving them problems coming back next year. Were in the bc raindump season and i'm laying the mulch down 12 inches thick. I've only done sunchokes in new plots so far but now there maturing and I just don't want to kill over my sunchokes in the spring. I'm use to burring them pretty deep for starters but I don't know what there like for chizeling through hay. I could always pull mulch off and let them come up in the spring but I really don't want the rain directly pounding the soil anymore.