Years ago at a campground, I had a family staying there in a tent. Protective services showed up, apparently they had been at another camp for some time. Point being that there is a time limit to children in tents, and that is probably different by state. Those people were warned and moved off camp in a week. It was right after the 2008 fall.....
But that is a good point Tyler made, do look into that.
I've been making hay rakes for a while and they do really good in the garden as a bed prep rake too, but if you have a raised bed or hugel they can be too long....so I just turned this little hand rake!
Yeah, if comparing 2012 standard to 2012 hurricane its straps and a new shingle nail pattern etc. I was comparing a stick built floor to the monolithic foundation needed there.....if you go up north you could still do a footer and crawl space rather than a slab/footer and get away from the need to cut open the slab to dig up broken pipes...trust me I had many a pile of dirt in the living room floor while I was there!
Really the comparison is no codes/2006 vs 2012 codes plus hurricane addendums.
I suggest a different approach, the goats will asses themselves, just plant plants that accumulate the right minerals that are also edible to them and let them do what they are born with the instincts to do. If they get low on copper they will seek out white oaks, if they need iron you will see them seek out tap rooted weeds....etc.
As long as you either have these in their pasture, or take them out like I do, then they can seek out the things they need on their own, it is only when we take their freedom away that they cannot do this.
There are two spots that are about 5'x5' that are bare dirt one where they stand to watch me in the shop, the other right outside their barn door. I have a big bench and stones and logs that they climb on, the climbable things help with the trampling of the soil. There are about 25 different grasses and weeds that I have in there now, added a few last year, hope to add more this year. They are not in a permaculture system as of yet, as I am living on the campground that I serve as ranger on, so our hands are tied as to how much we can do.
Goats are climbers by nature, so if you provide enough big stones and logs so that there are two more places than goats they will play on that and not trample your pasture. Use their natural tendencies to your advantage!
Dan Boone wrote:A subset of "lumber" is specialty hardwoods. I've seen people on eBay selling billets of wood that were cut with a bandsaw to just fit inside the standard sized Priority Mail shipping boxes. Species on my property that might have enough value to cover shipping when sold like that include (based on the eBay listings I've seen) honey locust, persimmon, and osage orange.
Dan, I've probably thrown this at you in the past, but even if so, it bears repeating. Osage orange (horse apple, hedge apple, bois d'arc, maclura pomifera) brings big, big bucks from bowyers. They'll gladly give you $70 for a 4" x 4" x 60" piece if it's straight-grained. That straight grain, of course, is the catch.
Actually if you can find the more skilled bowyers, they like the wavy stuff they make snake bows now, it's a sign of skill to get a bow out of the harder billet....
That's an American scythe blade, believe it or not my ace hardware carries an aluminum handle for that type.... Austrian scythes are very popular but are physically different so filter any info you get through the knowledge that your blade is flat not curved in three directions. That is a good price!
My wife got one this year, 1957 farmall cub, it's a tiny machine that has very cheap parts, runs a very small 9hp gas engine, so it is thrifty too, we mostly need a trailer puller, and maybe some other tasks, but we don't need the weight to plow barrow or dig, so a small thrifty machine with the highest priced part being $100 and most parts being $15 was right for us. I replaced the muffler repaired the transmission gears, changed all the fluids and bought a crank to start it with for about $85....oh and $900 purchase price
Yes we are on international building code 2009, there are new codes always being developed so states and municipalities adopt a specific set for a given time, then move up usually to the next three year increment.
This is a southern magnolia bowl I did green in 2008, it's 3/16" thick. It was fun to challenge myself on the thinness but I enjoy making thick bowls that are more utilitarian than just for looking at....I will see if I can get a picture of my big maple bowl soon too, it won't sell because no one has a table big enough.....I did a bed for an xmas present last year, my best friend is an Amish carpenter, he did the flat work I did the posts free hand from our own design.
I am in Lawrence county, I am looking into the same questions. There are a lot of new things happening with the outdoor boilers that everyone has. The other issue is insurance. I'll update any solid info that I can find, I'll be interested in anything you can find, but counties may have differences. We are currently on 2009 building codes if I remember correctly, I moved from Florida and they were already on 2012, I tend to build above code anyway so....
I have, But I tend to enjoy spindle work a lot more than cross grain turning. I also have a sawmill so green spindle stock is easy to come by. But recently I have been trying to get all my turning Done out of storm felled trees, reclaimed lumber and such. I started by making really fancy Bodhran drum sticks, and was getting about $40 each for 9" sticks with antler and brass mountings, I am also a student of bagpipe making which is a lathe based deal as you can imagine.
This year I had a 36" honey locust fall, along with a 20" shagbark hickory, so I have about a thousand running feet of 2 1/8" square blanks 12' long
Did you or will you build your spring pole lathe? Are you doing a ceiling mounted pole, undermounted pole, or actual sapling still rooted?
So I have made about 37 bowls out of a storm damage cherry from a few years ago, the rough turned blanks have dried and been used but I had a few left so I finished one today. I like a bead at the top so it can be used as a harvest basket by tying a string in a loop to catch the bead then another for a bucket handle. I'll be sending this one somewhere for x-mas
I would, if considering pouring around structure, look toward having a metal replacement made, something in square or rectangular cross section that has large flanges welded to either side that can be used to bolt through the rim joists. You can quadruple your strength at the same time as reducing the number of members crossing through your "filling" material.
Again this really should be engineered to suit your structure, no matter the solution used.
One would be surprised how much impact just slamming the door on a wall with no joists has, and the collective movement of that action over time. My house is poorly framed and I flex the wall when I shut the door, visibly moving the wall, if that wall were not contained top and bottom I would have over the last four years scooted the wall off the foundation in the local area around the door. Exterior doors wiegh from 10-30 lbs that is effectively a hammer that you are impacting the wall with.....
That has a big dose of it depends....heat moisture site and mixing all have variables in this. If you turn it very often and keep the nitrogen high enough to keep it working I would say 2 months is doable?.....but you get to have fun doing it too!
Wood chips will take longer but add more long term structure and nutrients to your compost. I like a wood chip rich compost when I use compost, some do not, some of that is the intended use some is personal preference.
To me more wood is always better, in my soil or in my shop!
It is the roof failure in those picture that cause the walls to fail, if you look it is from the flattening of the roof pitch that the walls react. In fact I have arrows showing the force acting on the roof and into the walls only after the roof has reacted to force......
As the pitch of the roof flattens the top plate of the wall will be pushed out in the case of rafter removal, joist removal takes years but eventually the rim joist will fail and the walls will drift off the footing either into the house or out of the house, but they will eventually react to forces. However the roof is still structured so it will remain on pitch. This is simple structure physics, that I can prove in a structural model or a scale model.
So, any roof wieght or roof loads are directed straight down through an engineered system that contains the load in a plumb force, if there were parts missing the roof load could under some circumstances begin to spread your structure. This is why in old block shops from the 50s you will often see an all thread bolt every ten ft going from one wall to the other perpendicular to the ridge of the roof.
Just a reminder to watch for it that's all, once it moves it's difficult to move back into place.....