Yesterday a good friend found a young injured sage grouse in his yard. We decided to put it in one of my unused paddocks to see if some protection and water would be enough for it to get back up to speed.
While we were getting things set up, a morning dove that's been hanging around decided to show our little buddy how to use the watering dish.
Thanks Betty. The drawings were mostly done in Adobe Illustrator. I used some hand sketches scanned in and sketchup to get proportions close to accurate, but mixed them all together in Illustrator.
To date I only have one "coop". It was built almost 100% from extra materials I had laying around. Well that's an exaggeration. I had purchased some metal roofing with the intent of doing some kind of covered paddock pavilions and was pleased to find a source at $0.50 per sq ft. The rest is pallets, scrap wood, old hardware, and left over fence stain so I get less flack from the HOA (fingers crossed).
Basically, I have a metal roof at a 45 degree angle so the chickens can't sit on it, with an even higher flat roof over the whole. The nesting boxes are under the shed roof, and the roosts are up high under the flat roof. I'm sure that's confusing. It's 2 pieces... high flat roof with no walls only posts and roosts underneath... tucked under that and facing the roosts, angled roof with nesting boxes underneath. Hope that helps.
Ty Morrison wrote:So, I get the earth sheltered part, but it seems that the loss of the solar-gain wall on the hillside slope is contrary to the Wofati principals. What is behind the notion of three sides buried?
I've seen this question come up quite a bit. It's a common misconception that wofati design has anything to do with solar gain or passive solar design. Paul has gone on record stating that he wants to prove the design will work with no regard whatsoever to solar aspect or orientation whatsoever.
It's all about thermal inertia. Not pictured in any of the drawings here is the "umbrella". This detail is possibly the most important part to pulling off the no heating or cooling thing. Here's the idea in more detail: some of John Hait's stuff
Lee, I'm not smart or experienced enough to tell you for sure, but it looks an awful lot like the comfrey I've got growing on my place. Maybe put a shovel through it and move half to another spot if the original regenerates and the transplant does well… if it's not comfrey maybe it's something equally magical?
Jeanine, funny only a permie would ask such a thing. I've been mentally grinding on that one for over a year now. MUST MAKE USE OF THE BIG HOLE. Currently I'm retooling that area. Making the hole deeper then a bunch of gravel will be going in. I'm hoping to create a type of air well effect and channel any h20 to an even deeper hole yet to be dug.
Ty, I'm thinking the above method with black locust, sans creosote, might last a REALLY long time.
As for the load calculations, more like 3' of both soil and snow would be a safer figure.
In Mike Oehler's book he has some nice little drawings of how to work poles into built-in furniture and features. I think I might have been a bit sleep deprived when making the above model and have updated it since.
After a couple more back and forths with Tim this is our current design:
R Scott wrote:What don't they like about the current one (other than the size)?
Do the posts bother them? Would changing the timber size and making the span a little bigger make it easier inside? Or are they not a problem and you should reduce the span so you can use smaller timber?
It's mostly the size. 400 sf just a little cramped in the middle of winter with 3 kids and all.
Tim's ok with the posts. Other than the size, the greatest concern is to streamline the building process. We've switched up a few details with the beams and how things will go together after that. More details to come as we work through things.