You can make this as big or as small as the tire you can get, there great no think ponds you can lay down in a half hour. It won't take the standing water away but footpath swales would allow the drop in level in order for the earth to weep water and surface flow to drop into a channel. If you have to bring in soil to make a raised bed that does suck, but even raising a bed 3 inches with the soil from the footpath just trippled your drainage compared to last year. Most of my raised bed where made of pure mud thrown onto a trench of hay, woodchips and rabbit manure. If you can keep the mud draining all winter you wont end up with a brick in summer. I look at my beds after a season and I can't believe I use to be standing where 2 feet of loose your boot break your hip mud once was. I've done allot of pseudo hugelkulter by digging a hole filling with with material and then putting the soil back at ground level to form a raised bed. I don't know where it all goes but I have a few spots that seem to now take an endless amount of water without flooding.
Check out a few examples of tyre ponds, it's in the design manual which of course made me run out and fill my trunk with trip after trip of free used tires.
I think the thing to remember is that's a very vague and at the same time quite promising descriptive. 17 inches is an average, they didn't say in the valeys or on the ridges, over a rock or on the flats. That layer of caliche is minor and your soil is mineral rich, break through it and plant trees. When you punch holes in it they don't reform, it's probably calcium based but you have allot of potential mineral abundance which makes it minor if it's described as brittle. Raised earth plantings take care of the water table, and if you can use footpath's as swales you can squeeze in allot of ponds. I managed 6 in an 1/8 and i never fall in and they just add so many opportunities. I'm sad to say my live in landlord hasn't taken a blind bit of notice of all my work in 4 years, but really I have to thank layers of bamboo.
we have plenty of high water table where I live, the walls of the basement leak and the well overflows. I've trained my landscape to channel and drink water until every inch is subsoil saturated for the year, and when i've hit a limit I take the water elsewhere. I love having catails in the lawn from buried tire ponds. I've made chains of them and fed them water from downhill off a gutter that went through pvc pipes full of watercrest. Where I live I don't want to call urban because of the bears, but I suppose if I can get to a megaplex mall in 15 minutes it's urban enough to cost 1.25 million but I only pay 1600 in rent. I've done allot but it sounds like your working with about the same space as me and when it evolves and complexes people are overwhelmed and can't really see anything in particular.
Clip there wings, it only takes 30 seconds a bird twice a year. The only reason not to is because there unprotected ducks that need to be able to fly for safety. If my ducks flew I don't think id ever see them again.
compost tea last 36 hours from when you cut off the air, compost brewing run a max of 36 hours because you run out of food. You put on your brew friday at noon and sell it saturday morning for use by sunday night. As for scale casting tea can be made for any amount you have available from a bucket of water mixed with a cup of castings up to a bucket of castings mix with 250 gals of water. I'm not a big fan of storing worm tea although i did store alot of leach-ate when I had a rain through bin, I find when i live by 36 hours being the brink I have no worries.
I have on of those geo tea brewers now but I started with an air stone like everyone else, I think if I was to do it again I'd have more fun building a flowform aerator but the blower is more tight packaged. I'm also moving into using my blower instead of a shop vac for static aerated composting so it's paying itself off.
Recipe's i've tried allot but if your going to market I'd stay pretty basic till your in the mood to buy a microscope or potentially kills someones plants. Molasses, kelp, fish hydrolosate, humic acid. That's my take no risk recipe but I never follow it unless i've hurt a plant in a previous trial, honestly the only time i ever hurt plants is tripping over the hoses or getting impatient while watering in urine. I hit some point I can reach and then I just start spraying cuzz im sick of being careful, when i get diluted urine on leaves they curl up for a week then come back. Mind you when I pickle urine with Em-1 I can spray all i want and it doesn't hurt leaves, but don't try it unless you know how to say im sorry about this plant.
Home brew for my yard follows the standard 4, but then i go for comfrey juice, whey, horsetail tea, blood, flower, nitrogen fixing bacteria, a packet of " paul staments" fungi beneficials, willow tea, wads of duck shit, coffee grounds. The last two i put in the bag not in the water. These ingredient on there lonesome or in tandem can throw your mixed bacterial or fungal dominant depending on your soil agenda. I've never killed anything from any of this stuff your client may not want mushrooms appearing next year where they inoculated heavily, it's not worth it to do wiggy stuff if your not going to test it for the high quality branding of your product. I brew for 18 to 24 hours depending on the season 36 hours when it's cold like 40-50f.
If you really have that much comfrey I'd powder it and sell it like kelp, I don't think i'll ever feel like i have enough comfrey no matter how much I put in, I'm well over 100 and i still feel itchy that I could use another 100.
What do you guys thinks of working at getting a better shred of the compost material going in rather than sifting a finer product on the outbound? I put my last heap through the wood chipper for the greenhouse an the material came out lovely all those composted balls of rabbit poo and hay turned to textured powder and coir like fibers. In this case is was an afterthought because the chipper needed sharpening and was clogging. But Im setting up for my spring in ground heap and I figure i'll get an even better compost if I shred my material down on the inbound. The shredder size is linked to the scale of the enterprise from the 2 inch branch chipper up to the tub grinder if your looking at 10+ cubic meters. I hated my home built sifter it would take 3 days to sift enough for seed starting but the time it took me to fork dry compost into a chipper was reduced by 10x. I only have about a cubic meter worm farm so i'm a little on the small scale for anything other than on farm applications of worm tea in elicit amounts to increase biological digestion of my sheet mulch. I think there's much more money in a 5 galon bucket of castings if that goes into a 1000 liter tote and get's use in contract spray applications, or weekend live sale of compost tea that can be diluted up to 50:1 post sale. Marketed as a live pro biotic foliar spray that can't be stored but must be used brings in repeat customers. It's not that 45 dollars a yard for compost doesn't sound great but for what I can with compost and worm castings to extend it's primary micro-organismic purpose it seems like you could get allot of mileage out of 5 gallons of high quality castings brewed and sold by the gallon. 5 bux a galon times a 250 gallon/1000 liter tote is good money for your time spent even if you sell compost tea for 2.50. I would much rather have a contract to deliver 1000 litres to a farm or nursery irrigation system for 500 bux though because I can brew 3 times a week and need less customers.
I guess im arguing value adding to the subject of income in worms and compost. I've found it such an effective solution for the economy of my garden that I can afford to experiment with going too far and laying down the maximum in a season until soil maturity.
you can use capillary mates with a root barrier to keep soil blocks from turning into concrete blocks, i find I wreck blocks alot in the greenhouse in may. Too much water on too many overcast days and the seedlings can end up damping off, miss 1 watering between 11 and 4 and depending on your soil mix you can come back to concrete which doesn't wet easily. I've done vermiculite, worm castings and coir. I've never tried any in my life and i had made a batch of soil blocks that mutated into fuzz so I gave in and tried something conventional since soil blocks seem to be built for it. It did work but I can't really ever buy that stuff again on the scale in which I want to live my life so I went back to working on a homebrew that suits my resources.
I've done allot of experiments with sand, and the truth is if you don't have some rigid criteria for how you want to be able to operate in awkward design implementation situations I would go with something organically conventional. Coir, compost, castings, minerals and water and you'll be fine, I don't like how heavy my soil blocks are with sand, but sand I can always have and so can I compost so Im perfecting my blends.
your dimensions sound like the standard, but if you got the wood and wire to space no rabbit ever refused the legroom to hop more than once. You asked how big vs what is the standardized minimum, i keep my giant chins in a really big pen that would infuriate most case breeders. I just find when they have litters it's a meat locker by harvest time, so i keep them in about 30 inches wide by 5 feet long by 4 feet high. I have open kennels so i can get in so it's not exactly a hutch, but i feel there's just enough space for them to get enough back and forth that i don't feel like im keeping veal. I have 4 does and 1 buck, so there's always someone with a growling litter, I think if I had new zealands I would be happy with 3 feet by 3 feet there just not going to get to 12 pounds and stretch out to 2 feet long.
So i think your spacing's pretty normal and well tested, I know if I had caged rabbits i could fit 3 times the amount in the same space but I wouldn't be happy and id probably have rabbit problems i don't have now.
You know what I found nature thinks of cayenne pepper and chilli flakes, they make seeds delicious. I put enough pepper on 2 handfulls of sunflower seeds to kill a man and my ducks and the squirrels polished them off.
Honestly if the ducks are wild you need a predator to either regulate their population or keep them a bay, but it's got to be a live dynamic deterant. Weather usualy destroys most deterants effectiveness. I've use cd's strung to tree's to blind the hawks as they swoop down to try and attack my ducks, works great on sunny days...... doesn't stop anyone at night and on overcast days which is 50% of my year. So any one static technique wont hold up, but a roaming dog isn't static so you can never relax, that's about it for idea's from me in the case of wild ducks which arn't grounded by wing clipping.
zone 3 freeze, i would add worms and start a new bin with the egg laden contents of the old bin. Just like seeds that can sit in the cold on the ground all winter and still sprout in spring your worm eggs are looking for favorable sustained conditions. They moderate their population so before all your worms bit the dust they cached their future in eggs. If your going to keep your bin warm till spring I would add worms to keep the material leftover working, if worms are functioning then your eggs will hatch over a long period of time, if you leave your bin fallow it could go anerobic which the eggs can pick up on and delay hatch. Doesn't have to be a tonnage but you don't want bacteria or fungi running out of balance while there's nobody to eat them.
I'm trying to think of a disorder that would "one by one" your rabbits over such a long period of time, It's like im looking at an accumulation of something but each rabbit is showing a different genetic tolerance.
Have you done any autopsy on previous rabbits that passed away and found any observational details that you could add? I don't want to shout out mucoid enteritis and have you dwell in multiple fears that have no basis in evidence linked to your rabbits.
But I do want to help even if it's just adding an additional brain to search the internet that might open a door not previously considered. I know what it's like to go from plenty to genetic breeding stock scarcity in a flash, we'll pull together so you don't end up giving up on rabbits.
It's always a bummer knowing when someone gives up there's one less place where life can exist.
Thats fantastic they built the most baddass bokashi setup and flipped it to silage, I'm excited I know i can handle this.
I have a moisture meter and a cement mixer for when im making feed pellets, the hammer mill will do lovely for sizing things down.
I've been afraid of silage for some reason even though I lacto ferment my ass off with everything I can put in a mason jar, maybe it's just scale anxiety that I havn't looked at rationally.
I collect all these rural brochures for 3rd world countries because that put's the projects into my economic bracket and the resources required are as available to me on this side of the world as they are to them.
I dry everything and it stays green, but I think the animals deserve that pickled goodness i stuff in my face at dinnertime. It's simply on another level of nutrition that concentrated dried material can't compete with, even though that dry forage is superior to conventional inputs.
A couple more details maybe, did someone give you these ducklings? I'm wondering how I can help you but I don't know how while trying to think of whats best for the ducks. I don't know your local market and if your targeting pet owners or meat producers. Youtube can help you with sexing your specific breed if that plays a role in your enterprise, are you a homesteader trying to go to a market like craigslist with your ducks? Sometimes another permie is just looking for a start and might give your ducks a great home, if it's just about the expedience to cash well then an open market like craigslist might be were your market lives. If the ducklings don't have a mother, then as long as there sold in groups to someone else with experience they should be ok.
Ken Peavey wrote:Have you pelletized anything?
How is it working for you?
If you have done leaves, what sort of issues present?
How does the energy output compare?
Is an extra few pounds of ash each day such a hassle?
What a difference a year on the forum makes! I was asking these same questions last year and nobody could answer.
But guess who can answer now!
So your right in line, i bought a pellet pros hammer mill and pellet mill and had them shipped to canada. I run them off my dryer outlet from the kitchen....... yes i make a uncleanable amount of dust......
Hows it working, it works great for how small scale I was allowed to get in the game. I've had a few bumps along the way because I started from zero knowledge, but katie at pellot pros held my hand from way back right up to calling me on thanksgiving weekend because she was worried. I exclusively pelletize or fail to pelletize only things that have zero pellet recipes. I don't know what my malady is but it's like I don't understand basic chemistry but in a maverick I've made it work. I no longer try to pelletize grain with dried forage anymore, it's the stupidest and most time consuming thing i've done with my machines. I get pellets but I had to go back to the feed cement mixer allot of times to adjust the recipe, only to have the pellets explode while in storage at the slightest hint of moisture. I finaly mastered it when i learned to use grass as a binding agent but it's overkill for ducks and rabbits like there hay long. What they go crazy for is jerusalem artichoke, comfrey and lemon balm pellets, they eat the whole sunchoke ground up stem and all.
On the question of energy output, now where getting in to regular stuff pellet mills can do. I've only done it for fun but yes if your material going in is energy neutral like grass from a reel mower you can make enough pellets with electricity to be producing more than your consuming. But it get's dicey as you have to reduce most materials down to a quarter inch particle size give or take the material.
I use wood pellets in my rocket stove dehydrating room but that doesn't have much to do with home pelletizing unless I lived off wood fuels. I get mad sometimes when I think about how much energy I could get out of a free 40 yards of woodchips, so im not saying it's not worth four or five days work to put away a pallet or two of pellets. But you gotta have that material on hand, the more you go searching with fossil fuels to make wood fuels the more you should of just bought a pallet worth for the winter.
I find for want sillyness I want to do seasonaly over a grueling weekend of hauling and rumbling is fine for now to keep my animals happy but it wont pay itself back until I'm living a fulltime permaculture lifestyle on a larger scale. I did use it constantly when I took 10 months off to farm hard, but I think i would get really bored with it if i kept making the same thing over and over. As much as I made a mess, working with forage was really exciting as you try to build upon each ingredient to forfill the components needed to pelletize. I've had too much water and I've had to little, I know i couldn't live without the moisture meter either.
I hope me spouting off about pellet mills might get your mind thinking of what other tangents you could be pursuing if your seriously thinking of buying.
don't have a ratio science panic over living systems, if your in the 1/3rd manure 2/3rds carbon vicinity your method of composting while mainly dictate at what stage do you amend from there. An 18 day active aerobic compost is going to have allot of different key moments where you can adjust things as there going and your observing. In that style of process your going to be directly interacting with the biological process through it's phases and stages, It's such a real time engagement you can watch a bone go from fresh to bone meal. The longer methods ameliorate themselves over vaster expanses of time, what was once too acid has finally broken down enough eggshell to go neutral for instance.
Once you read a few charts on common material ratios you can start to extrapolate there characteristics onto other things that are not on the list. I've never been able to find a calculate that could do the math on how much pee to how much woodchips, but I do know the grand variable is surface area over any other quantity factors. So whether or not to shred can take an unknown or out of balance ratio and put it back into a biologically available range.
I've stressed my brains out over so many things in the beginning that it just turned to procrastinating, but good honest information based on experience over authoritativeness seems to really put the shovel to the duck pen.
You can absolutely make veganic compost without meat or manure, but again you now got a heap of alfalfa ton your hands to do battle with 2 bales of hay and you've got to shred it down with a force to make it available.
Your might want to ask Fred Morgan one of our moderators, I've been to his sustainable funiture website and they grow some jaw dropping tree's and well let's not talk about how awesome the furniture is.
I don't have any first hand knowledge, oh how I wish I did. But since your question inspired me to get resolve an issue I've been paralyzed by, I thought I should at least say thanks.
I was looking at a couple of sites that sell the flatbeds, and I think I could actually handle the concrete abutments which is what most of the install is about. What kind of education were you able to find or do you have a background that makes you familiar? I'm coming from having never poured a post hole but I thought bridges were out of my league for life. It took me 5 mins to realize this is in my capacity and im quite excited, I don't know if these will be available on an island where i'll end up but I'm inspired flat out as a designer.
Whoa! what type of hidden gem is this? I can't even find the book you mentioned as I've already opened 5 other tabs of other books on a myriad of subjects that I could never get hard data on. I think one of the things allot of us miss in permaculture is how much good documentation there is out there on things like what to feed muscovies, to how do I transplant my coffee plants for this food forest I've been spouting off at the mouth about. Thanks you so much, this page is like an arsenal of farm income streams and how they've weighed out for real farmers on the ground across the world.
my group membership isn't approved yet but could you tell me where is the regional dominance of this group? I'd drive down to washington to find perrenials I can get, but oregon will need a rental car.
Rick is there not enough to start a compost heap? I don't know why but every winter I end up with a deep freeze of frozen crap that I thought was food. It's a pain getting the tempurature up to 110f in 4-6 days if you wanna go intensive, but it melts and heats up just dandy being all extra broken down from defrosting. Soo many balls of frozen cabbage and strange dead body's of things like the hawk that got electrocuted, or a mountain of frozen failed to incubate eggs.
Honestly if i find myself in an ethics pinch between sorting out how to ingest something I reject rather that give away something I don't want proliferating. The coppice firewood timber trees are able through bio remediation to uptake those negative salts and heavy metals that are going to destructive distillation. The same can be done with septic effluent and allot of mulch, mind you not legal in most parts. The problem with trying to use them as a compost activator nitrogen wise is the water soluble salts when it comes to bacteria and fungal life. It's not something I want to cut in with my other permaculture ventures, but I wont say it's not biologically possible to achieve results. My recommendation is coppice firewood, mix it like a compost in the mulch and let time and water hold it in layers to get your coppice tree's established. But you have to follow it up with compost and other additive measure to inoculate the proceeding generations of leaf fall and mulch.
Patric you might have to Typher Latifolia them out and then turn your pigs in on the Typher. I unfortunately really want skunk weed in the duck pen to mop up their excesses and hopefully be one of the few things they don't murder, they even butcher the first waves of knotweed shoots in the spring before they let it go up to be their summer shade. The only way to fight a bog plant is with a bog plant, Catails grow fine in the swamp you don't have to have surface water.
You make a good point on this topic and have me thinking what would I do with the salt if everything around me was my land. I'd have to go with evaporating it and reclaiming the salt, I don't even think I would waste the wood boiling it off but simply leave it in a solar cooker.
I think just by asking the question you've solved it for allot of people, what would I do if there was no elsewhere for my problems to go. Reusing it for animal purpose is grand depending on what kind of salt you started with. I grew up thinking salt was salt and if you want to get fancy there's pink salt, my wife brought home a bag of grey pebbles and they mashed like icing in the mortar. That salt I drink with water and it helps me not get dry mouth from drinking too much water.
I found it well better said I got home from work for once while my wife was awake. Im way off on the word pollard I should have known better at that guess.
It's called a columnar apple This could very well be the species of apple for the temperate fruit bearing tree circles.
Wait a minute one of the apple tree's I have is called a something " my wife told me and I didn't listen" It's a pollard apple maybe, basically the apple tree has no branches and just goes straight up and bear's apples on the trunk/stem Im not sure what I consider it.
Those apples would take off in a circle scenario because there's little lateral competition and there's no pruning. I always thought it was a broke branch of one of the bigger tree's that got planted but it's a totally different type of apple tree she says. Im itching to do a jerusalem artichoke circle for rabbit forage, but now im going to harrass my wife for a list because if other fruit tree's of this perticular growth habit are available that might just be the tipping point to tempurate banana circles of explosive yields. Now I can't say it would out produce one mature apple but one mature apple tree can also bite the dust in 1 season, where my stick apple tree's have survived everything.
You really have to read his book. I don't know what to say it's like the man declares a love for bees so astute and unrelenting that you just give in that he's the truth. I find that I got a real education in the subject of apiculture that I can honestly say I did it for the bees not for myself, what I learned really transformed me. I'm not going to quote from a book his decimation's of the other hive approaches, but he does identify the driving agenda's of his time that radiate strongly until today.
Top bars are cool, that's appropriate technology worldwide. I wouldn't make a warre hive without a table saw and a nail gun, that's appropriate to me and most people doing it as a living. So a warre hive has limitations as a technology in your permie tool belt, but for the amount of positive interactions the philosophy brings I'd still do it the hard way.
I hope you do choose to read it for yourself.
I wasn't recommending as I havn't seen your location, im mainly providing my personal workaround for skillset limitations. You can't do what I did inside a house if there's a wife about, i added a room to the outside of the house so my mistakes could be forgiven. When going under the ground level left me confused i simply build another a deck over the floor so i had a new floor. This reduced my stress allot as like my inner genius said hey who want's to work in the cold why not add glass walls first so theres no room to do anything safely. My RMH is disassemble because im renting so being able to pick up a 8x10 deck and retrieve my 40 feet of tubing is a bonus, your planning on selling so a proper sub floor heating system is more work than I can recommend to myself. Retrofit is harder than starting from scratch.
the only trouble is that spent slush is also known as good compost. Gley is anaerobic yes but the goal is a biological gel not just any anaerobic breakdown will work for gley. Think 8 inches of banana leaf covered in carboard and soil, the methane digester wont be outputting enough for any pond building session in 1 go. The breakdown needs to happen in place so it bonds with the earth, even the sluggy juice can't be layed thick enough before it would slide and pool.
Sorry to put a downer on a great concept, if you really want to apply gley as more of a paste then fresh albumen full cow manure is your friend.
I run my rabbits on deep litter and we plant straight into it with a cover of compost right from the pen. Mind you hay alone can't tackle the ammonia on it's own, you need 6 inches before the biology is at a critical mass to balance with the animals daily input. I lean towards korean natural farming in the arena of using basically molasses and whey to inoculate the base with lacto bacillus. This seems to wipe the ammonia right out and begins tilting the litter into the bokashi camp at that depth.
That looks like soooo much fun, I'd pay 25 bux a turn to do that.
As for that car that wouldn't stop, ugh that's my life growing up back east. I got a love hate with sliding objects, i love how helpless you are about something moving so slow but hate how helpless you are about something moving so slow. Funny Sad is a bitter drink.
Am I correct in considering the fruit tree circle to be an adaptation of the banana circle system. If so it's only appropriate to certain tree growth pattern types, it's not the shading out that's the issue but the tangling and stunting of one another via shading. In the case of a palm let's say the tree's race each other upwards and resolve the spacing with each other via their mono stemlike nature. It doesn't work with tree's that unpruned would naturally form a cone, but I can tell you a willow coppice circle hasg some serious advantages.
Aside from the risk of pioneering I say go for it for better or worse as someone defied conventional thinking when the banana circle was invented. You may not hit it with one type of fruit tree, then score a big one for all of us with another.
If you use the RMH in a sub floor heating fashion it could really add to your resale. "radiant floor wood stove" sounds like a juicy perk without the renovation. Now the flip side to it is depending on your background the project could prove to be a disaster, I build a small one for a drying room and doing the subfloor with my no experience was so hard i gave in and just raised the floor 8 inches by putting deck boards over the piping thats sitting on the former floor. RMH's are scalable so North of 60 is more of a burn tunnel diameter and wood refill rate issues than a can it do the job issue.
Ernie I'm down for what your suggesting, I've never herd of the subject till this topics. I took a wild guess and found those images on the net, but I cannot testify of what you guys are talking about. Are there any pictures for what seems to be in prototype stage, I just wanna ready up on what this breakthrough provides.
how much gas did it give you?, my variety can only be eaten on fridays and saturdays because there is no work in the morning.
Mine are super knobby but grow great fodder for the animals, sometimes they'll come out with 2 inch stems that a give to the rabbits as popcorn wood.
Do you mean these? I read the spec's on ceramic tile flue liners and it's pretty kickass. I bought 2100f rated flue pipe to make a bastards burn tunnel with no clay, but these ceramic molds beat that hands down and probably would have cost me the same.