1. You have already done the first great thing - create a simple link to the cards. Permies.com/cards is easy to remember.
2. On the permies.com/cards site, bring the Amazon link to the top of the page and make it obvious. It is a great deal, especially with prime. Bring it to the top, with the price and a thumbnail if possible. Make it very obvious at the top to find. That way, anyone driven to your site can buy it before they read all the other stuff if they want to.
3. Think of a survival/permie topic that you can break into 4 or 5 five minute segments of audio (like 5 points of rendering human waste harmless, 4 points of building a hugelculture, etc.). Record the 4 or 5 segments and at the end of each pitch your cards and use the permies.com/cards link or the amazon link.
4. Ask Jack to play the multi-segment series daily on his show over a week. It will only take up 5 minutes of his show, but would give you daily exposure. Give a little, get a little hopefully.
5. You might also follow that up with posting to some survival forums a link to the series so that they can listen to it as well.
Tim Eastham wrote:Sunhives are unfortunately illegal to use as a beehive in the United States. All hives are required to have moveable frames for the gov't to inspect the brood chamber.
Why would the inside bars not count as moveable frames?
I stand corrected. I have never seen one with moveable frames before. Very cool. Those probably wouldn't work in FL or TX. We have issues enough in certain areas with comb collapse of the standard TBH depth.
My inspector hates me enough with a TBH. He would probably go ballistic with one of these.
Do you split hives during swarm season to stop swarming in some hives?
I have had a TBH for a year now. I caught a swarm a year ago and this is the time of the year for swarming. I could create another second hive if I wanted to with a split of my existing hive. Some research I did suggests that letting them swarm may actually help them break pest cycles.
Do you normally do any splits or do you let all the hives swarm? If you let them swarm, do you have failures of the hive left behind because they are weakened by the swarm?
I don't really need 2 hives but I would like to maintain the one I have. A swarming would give me a new queen, which I believe would keep my hive vitality strong but I am concerned it could also spell the end for the hive if the hive beetle population rises too highly during the break in brood that happens during the transition of royalty.
We have lots of hive beetle issues in FL. They only cause an issue, though, when the hives are weak. Otherwise, the bees dispatch them or imprison them.
Mountain Tranquility Farm
The curling can be stopped by straightening two comb and putting a new bar between the straight ones. They will maintain their bee space and draw the new one straight. Keep doing this checkerboard technique and continuing to move out the follower boards until the hive is built out. Anytime you harvest a comb for honey, place the bar between two comb instead of on the end.
Any time you want to harvest old brood comb to reduce chemical load, move it on the backside of the honey wall and return in a week after they have hatched out the babies. Then, harvest the old comb and place a new bar between two bars with comb.
It is over a year later, but I will chime in on this thread. I chose TBH because I wanted the bees to have the experience that I consider most bee like. When it comes to TBH, you will be removing a lot more wax than a conventional hive. Here are the reasons why I think this is not only OK but beneficial:
1. Bees step all over the comb. Each comb probably receives hundreds of thousands of tiny bee footsteps on it each day. Some of those bees just returned from foraging for water, pollen, or nectar. This will cause a buildup of whatever the bees encounter in the wild. In an ideal permaculture world, this would be fine. But in our world of chemicals, they will be accumulating chemicals on the comb. Slicing off the comb and making them rebuild it reboots this. Every other part of the hive is non-continual. Queens, workers, and drones die and are replaced. Honey is consumed. The only chemical weak link in my opinion is the wax.
2. In nature, when the hive is attacked by a mammal, they will take the comb. So, if I want the honey, I believe I should take the comb too.
3. I think the cost to the hive is negligible, especially compared to a modernly managed conventional hive. The only reason why they reuse the comb is to shorten the cycle to fill them back up with honey. The only reason why they want that situation is so they will be able to harvest more honey. When you take into account all the honey that will be taken under this technique, I would be hard pressed to think that the economics of the hive are any different than taking the comb.
4. Causing them to rebuild comb gives them the opportunity to change the comb size to fit any changes in the hive. Whether it be genetic changes caused by a queen change or environmental response, allowing them to rebuild the comb makes sure the hive is designed in the best way for their current surrounding, genetics, and environment.
I love gardening in FL. Stating extreme weather cases like hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes, etc. are just that - extreme cases. We have had no hurricanes since then. I lived through the 3 hurricanes and yes it sucked. Florida may be considered in drought but drought is a factor to indicate a deviation from a normal. There is no normal in climate. It is always changing. Central Florida, where I live, gets 50" of rain on average per year. Fifty inches! That is not moderate rain - it is excessive! I love it! Tampa suffers because the system in Tampa is designed to water lawns based upon what they expect to get from rain, not what they actually get.
Our list of what we can't grow is so small and our list of what we can grow exceeds most other places in the United States. We can garden year round and most of the time don't need to preserve food unless we just want to be eating those loquats, grapes, or pears in off season times. We have conventional greens in the winter/spring and tropical greens at other times of the year. We get 2 season for annual veggies and wouldn't want to grow tomatoes in the summer anyway because the cilantro bolts then
Most of our legume trees don't have nasty thorns, but they are considered invasive by the people that make us sad.
And we have tons of lakes to fish and wild pigs to hunt too.
Pietro's is attending Seminole Springs Herb Farm's Spring Festival this weekend (5/17/14) if you want to check them out there. They usually only bring half their varieties (4 types). They do grow all 8 varieties though.
I have some basic newbie questions about cover crops. I have purchased some seeds and I am wanting to cover crop where my lawn died. I basically just have sand for soil here in Central Florida. The mix is beans, vetch, and oats. The grass in the area is dead. How is the best way to seed the cover crop? Should I turn the soil to flip the dead grass? Should I toss down the seeds on top of the dead grass and put a thin layer of soil over them? Should I just toss the seeds on the bare ground? Should I used a thin mulch like dried grass clippings, hay, or straw? Will cover crop like the sand or should I mix in some organic material?
It sure would be nice to see some closeups now of the beds to see how they have done since early spring...
I live in Florida so the internet is my only way to really see this project unfold. Hopefully someone is documenting the transitioning of these beds over time. We don't get many opportunities to see things like this here in the U.S.
Isaac Hill wrote:The swales are oriented to the contour, the suntrap is oriented to the sun. The planting of the trees is contingent upon the swales so you will have to superimpose the suntrap map on top of the swale map.
The picture on page 58 of Gaia's Garden is great. I love the food forest and keyhole beds layout. I also like the ideas in Chapter 10 for growing a food forest. The pictures show a progression. Where I run into confusion is assimilating the idea of swales in Chapter 5 with all the other stuff in the book. It seems like swales are mentioned in Chapter 5 and then never talked about again.
If I integrate swales to slow the water off my 1/4 acre lot and integrate a suntrap system, how do the swales come into play? Do they just run through the system with trees and shrubs and keyhole beds just planted where they symmetrically lie? Or should all the suntrap components be planted or designed on contour?
Nicole Castle wrote:Tim, are strawberries really annuals in your zone? What kills them? Here, they are typically grown commercially as annuals but are still very much perennials.
We have very aggressive nematodes in Florida. Strawberries have no defense. I have often wondered if I could plant them amongst some mashua to block the nematodes but I have never tried. Sometimes they can limp their way to the next season, but unless you have nematode free soil, they will be weak and pathetic and then dead.
I guess another way to describe what I am saying is that Permaculture is holistic. You can apply it to diet as well. Observe, interact, observe, interact. As for what works for you, Paul puts it best when he talks about individual Permaculture situations - it depends. Just like not overgrazing small properties, some plants not growing well in certain locations or certain times of the year, or any other farm situation - diet is similar. People have different genetics, living styles, activity levels, stress levels, food reactions, or physical limitations.
I think you will find that everyone has their own ideas about what to eat or what not to eat. In the end, you just have to find out what works for you. I lost 30 pounds and have kept it off for 3 years by eating the opposite of a Paleo diet. I am not against that diet - it is just not for me. I weigh 155-165 lbs, which fluctuates based upon the time of year. I exercise randomly and I don't count calories. I eat meat once or twice a week. I eat lots of grains, nuts, fruit, and beans - but seldom soy except in my coffee and my cereal as milk and tofu a couple times a month. When I eat meat, it is the best quality I can find in my area. I spend a long time cooking & preparing it, and try to rotate the cuts. Most of the time it is the cheaper cuts (beef roasts, whole cornish hens, chicken thighs, etc.).
I don't eat dairy. I don't eat pork. I do eat pie - just not lots of it
Find what works for you by feeling what works for you - that is my advice.
Few years behind you on this one and in the same area. How did it fare for you and did you find any good understory nitrogen fixing plants for zone 9? I myself have thought about goumi but don't think the understory will work for it. I think I am going to try some comfrey for mulch, which is not a nitrogen fixer but I think should grow pretty well here in partial shade. Most others' full sun is our partial shade. I have killed many plants following packet directions for sun exposure here.
Nick Garbarino wrote:Thanks Tim! I just happen to be making a trip to Tallahassee soon, so I'm going to stop by there and pick up a few goumis. Really appreciate it. Are you anywhere near Hernando county? Are you growing a food forest?
I live in Orange County (Orlando area). I am jumping in this fall when trees ship. Last year was observation, this year is soil building and planning, and this fall (when they start shipping fruit trees) is the beginning of my transition.
Basically, conventional breadmaking has around 75000 part per million of gluten. You must be 20 ppm or less for gluten-free label. This study was able to produce bread with 12 ppm using a special sourdough starter. That makes it gluten-free!
Jocelyn Campbell wrote:Some folks, especially if they are new, or are just jumping in due to the book giveaway, aren't clear on what exactly is a "forum" and what is a "thread." Here's some screenshots that I hope can help.
Jocelyn Campbell wrote:Bumping this thread back up for more podcast requests! Apart from interview requests, here are some questions from folks following the real sounding name request.
Richard Hasting wrote:
She is worried (as am I, if I have to be honest about it) that we will screw something up, make mistakes, fall on our faces, and lose what capital (read "go Broke") we have before we are actually able to make it a going concern.
As a loyal listener, I'd love it if you addressed such a concern. I think that the fear of uncertainty is what keeps most of us from diving into the unknown.
Gary Abshire wrote:With many of us seeing our growing season coming to an end perhaps some podcast on some fall/winter activities would be a good idea.
Site preparation for dormancy
Crops that can be harvested all season
Did I miss any other questions in this thread that haven't been covered yet? (Again, as part of Paul wanting to encourage a healthy community, the requests should be from real sounding names.)
Any new questions?
How about a podcast on fungi? I have had some discussions with some people on another thread about recovering chemical-laden property with fungi. I haven't heard Paul talk much about fungi and they seem like a very important addition to a permaculture system.
Do you think that if I inoculated mycelium in my yard it would help my grass in the front yard from needing so much water?
I also guess I should create some sort of barrier to the north. My yard slopes mostly from north to south with my house at the south end of my property. There is a house to the north that slopes my way as well. This means I get THEIR runoff. Maybe for the first few years I should just garden in raised box beds until I get it all sorted out. I will still grow lots of plants in the rest of the yard, I just won't consume them.
As for the previous orange grove, they haul in so much dirt to build these neighborhoods it probably doesn't matter much anyway.
ryan112ryan McCoy wrote:Does anyone know a solid PDC offered on the East Coast? Ideally in North Carolina.
I have wanted to take one, have been tempted to fly to the West Coast, but the environment is very different so many of the plants talked about might not work here. Any thoughts?
With in permaculture circles, what is considered to be the top tier PDC? link to their site?
NCSU has their course, Intro to Permaculture, online. It is a 40 hour course taught by Will Hooker. I have been watching it. It is very good. He owns the garden that is on the front cover to Gaia's Garden Second Edition.
The Greek philosophers had an ongoing debate about how we should look at our world. Some believed the world should be pursued through defining the Universals, which were the overarching grand ideas of the 'why' of everything. Some believed the Universals should be defined through the Particulars, which were sort of the low level 'whats' that they were observing.
Christians (as Paul would say I sign up for the Jesus package) believe that the teachings of Jesus are the core to not only how we should live our lives, but to the character of God himself. Jesus even chastised some of his followers once because someone was doing good works in His name but wasn't on board with Him. He told his disciples that if you do good things in His name then you are on His side.
When I first started looking into permaculture I didn't care about the ethics. Most people will not care initially. It is the observable that moves people, not the reason for the observable. It is not until someone notices the particulars and asks your universals that the ethics should be revealed. Christians are supposed to live a life that causes others to ask the why, not to ram the why down their throats. Christians can't hold non-Christians up to our standards. We can't judge them. Maybe permaculture should do the same.
Ultimately, Americans make choices in the food realm based upon a tripod of 'ethics.' They are taste, convenience, and cost. If you can show them how those three are affected in their favor, the ethics will come as part of the package.
paul wheaton wrote:So I ran the program and it came back with Tim Eastham as the first two. His email is in the daily-ish email list, so I gotta say the permies.com server somehow loves this guy. Who am I to argue?
From the remaining eight, there was one from Toby, four with emails not on the daily-ish email one fluff post and one name that looked like it didn't meet the new naming standards and one from Jesus Martinez.
So we have two winners and need four winners.
So I ran the program again. Another Toby post, another from Jesus, several more with emails not in the daily-ish email list and Nancy Sutton and Brenda Groth.
I will notify the four winners via email to get their snail mail details. And they MUST respond withing 24 hours.
To the rest of you: go buy Toby's Book! If Toby sells a big gob of books today and tomorrow, it tells other authors that visiting with us here at permies.com pays off big and then we'll be giving away a big bunch of books every week!
Yippee! The server just knew I was new to permaculture and I didn't have a copy of the book yet. It wasn't until Jocelyn and Paul explained the forums during the contest that I finally understood how the forums are organized. Now it makes sense. I have listened to all of Paul's podcasts and have learned bunches lately. Thanks Paul and Toby for the book and all you do.
I have lived on my 1/4 acre lot for about 5 years. I bought the home new. The property was formerly an orange grove. The first 3 years of my stay here I was a bad boy. Pesticides (lots) and herbicides on a regular basis in addition to recommended chemical fertilizing. Basically, if it was alive and not grass I attempted to kill it (and spent a lot of money doing that). Now, I am trying to clean it up. Last year, for the whole year, I didn't put anything down in the backyard. Yeah I had a some "weeds" (like sow thistle which I found out is edible). Some grass died too. However, I am now seeing bees (to the blooms on the "weeds"), worm castings (which I had never seen before), and critters coming to dig up the bugs.
Are these signs that my backyard is healed? If not, is there a mechanism by which I can eliminate or remove the toxins without replacing all the dirt manually? I plan on putting in a raised bed garden soon and will of course add new dirt for that, but what about eating the cow thistle or other "weeds" growing now in the grass? And what about if I throw food seeds directly into the existing dirt?
paul wheaton wrote:
Maybe that's the thing. An advertising campaign.
I know that I could scrounge up a couple hundred dollars .... maybe I should put together another kickstarter thing. Maybe I should find some sort of PR company that will be able to figure all that out and then I just need to do a kickstarter for the fundage .... but .... wait, that won't work. Kickstarter stuff is all about pre-selling artifacts. An advertising campaign has no artifacts.
You can get creative with the tangibles. A food truck in my area did a kickstarter to redo their truck. People who pitched in a little got invited to a catered party and people who pitched in a lot got their name on the truck.
As for getting the word out, I think you have to find out the audience you are appealing to. Is it all of America? Is it farmers? Is it suburban homeowners? According to this article (http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=13107752), 57 million homeowners are under HOAs. I am. I can't even move a plant in my front yard without HOA approval. I can't replace grass with beds without approval. They definitely won't let me mound like a conventional hugelkultur bed. I can do a raised bed (wood framed inches high) in my backyard, which most people are used to seeing. If I could bury the wood under the raised bed that would probably be ok. They probably wouldn't let me put in a 5ft hugelkultur bed. I think you should define your audience, tailor your message for your audience, and then create material to get their attention (whether it is funded by a kickstarter or a moneybomb or some other method).
I personally think you are going to have to possibly back off the ideal hugelkultur concept for the HOA masses if they are your target. Maybe a conventional raised bed with a slight side of hugelcultur crazy (like burying the wood under the frame like Jack Spirko did), but the whole hugelkultur idea will just seem crazy to them. You have remarked often about your scale and how people more than 2 level up look crazy. Maybe you should create a Wheaton hugelkultur scale that transitions people from straight bed (flat garden) to Sepp style bed sloooooowly
Has anyone had experience growing them in FL? My wife loves asparagus. Are they perennials here in FL? Do they just die out in the winter? Here in FL it might be good to maybe stagger them to grow before the tomatoes, so the they don't compete for space. I assume the companion benefits would still apply even if they are not growing at the same time right?