I've set up, re-set up, and refurbished ancient nurseries.... Ask Me Anything!! Under a tree I would not worry about putting them "up" on anything, I would prepare the ground with a graded gravel bed and weed fabric if you have a rampant weed problem already, if it's kind of subdued and only grows very low growing things that wouldn't grow up in to the pots I wouldn't worry about it too much.
There will be weeding!!! Try and identify which sorts of weeds are very rampant from seed, here we had a sort of spurge that was perennial, would go from seed to dropping seed in 30 days, and poisoned plants around it.
Also, try to be creative, go to garden shows with very choice plants and sell them for profit and exposure, put effort into growing the very best plants without using toxins, and look into a fertilizer injector- something like a siphonex will get you started, something like a dosatron or dosamatic will be a good long term investment. You will have to fertilize, don't kid yourself, a good analogy is a plant in a pot long-term is like a bird in a cage. Bird in wild would select whichever seed it needs and seek it out, find calcium, find grit, etc; bird in a cage needs everything it could possibly ever need brought to it. A good organic system is do-able, if you ever use chemical fertilizers, be VERY CAREFUL!!! Good results can be obtained with a careful hand and an injector, easy to get fake good results while killing the soil..... VERY VERY VERY HARD NOT TO POISON THE WATERWAYS WITH PHOSPHORUS!!! One could do this easily with organic as well, be careful! You might think of this and plant things to absorb the runoff down stream, cannas, cattails, colocasia I have used before. THINK OF THE RUNOFF, MAN!
A dream system would be to find the low spot on the property, where runoff will collect, tilt the land toward there and make a pond with fish and plants, and use the pond water for fertilizer, diluted. One could get away with planting plants in good organic soil, well drained with pumice, and a bit of rock phosphate, and watering with the pond water, using the sludge from a filter in a fertilizer injector for rapidly growing plants.
Sounds like the evil scale. Scrape 'em away with a q-tip (or fingers) and isopropyl alcohol, coat stems but not leaves with vegetable oil & soap emulsion, repeat like an obsessive compulsive person. Pick them off repeatedly.
I love abutilon. Especially the red ones. Maybe try a cutting in water, may be easier to kill the scale.
I whacked a bunch of it one time using *****WARNING- EVIL SPRAY WARNING--- ORGANIC BUT EVIL----*******
pelargonic acid- trade name scythe. Did that after the goat catastrophe, I don't get poison ivy and petted a kid and 'infected' the whole household. Trying to save a crazy asian pear variety that I got from a non-english-speaking woman from budwood directly from korea.
You could probably do the same with some high-strength 30% acetic acid vinegar, if you use either wait til a hot, sunny day, spray it down wearing a tyvek suit, throw away tyvek suit, repeat maybe once. Profit???
Poison ivy weakly comes back so if you can whack its leaves once or twice it will die forever, but the poison doesn't break down easily so be careful.
#1- the grass looks like an aristida, almost an educated guess. Grasses are impossible to identify without the seedhead present and blooming. Could also be a poa, but I don't think it is. Both genus are quite variable.
Give it about 2 more weeks and take another picture, get a closeup picture of the spikelet (flowering part) if you can.
#2- I've heard quercus lobata is the largest, though it is based on anecdotal information.
First guess is a poliomintha longiflora. True mexican oregano. This is truly a guess. Great stuff if that is it, I may ask you to send me cuttings..... They do have a salvia-like flower.
And, they have the benefit of being the highest ORAC per gram of anything.
If you can get a better/closer picture I can ID it with certainty.
Your mystery plant is blue cohosh, Caulophyllum thalictroides. I've never seen this in the wild before since it doesn't grow commonly in my region, but it's so distinct that it was easy to key out using the Carolina Key.
Either erigeron/conyza bonariensis or conyza/erigeron canadensis. If the leaves are slightly hairy, canadensis, if the leaves are smooth, bonariensis. I guess bonariensis, though I can't quite tell 100% from the photo.
Winter/summer annual, tough to get rid of, host for a true bug that attacks legumes, and presumably has a taproot.
It's a scut, I'm pretty durn sure. Could be salvia judging from pictures but salvia would only have two stamens.. you are correct, four "thin" parts and one "thick" in this case means four stamen and one pistil.
No problem on picture quality, in the same boat myself.. botanists aren't rich unless they work for monsanto!
Now to track down the species... Scuts are quite numerous with widely varying habits and leaf shapes. Can't rule out it being an introduced species.
Nice little forest garden in any case! Nettles are delicious and scuts are quite medicinal!
These guys, which I grow as well, are technically lycopersicon pimpinellifolium. My favorite cherry tomato. Be forewarned however, the stylus is longer on the flowers, which essentially means they cross with all your other tomatoes as opposed to selfing like tomatoes generally do.
So if you save tomato seed from any plants around while the currants are blooming, you get all disease resistant currant crosses.
I will second that, it's how I learned and indeed every botanist I know (wife, her dad, co workers) learned themselves. Using a key is how they teach plant id in graduate school, and you really must know basic botany first. I recommend the book botany in a day, and an example of a key I use is 'The manual of the vascular flora of the carolinas'. Though I'm not exactly in the carolinas, and either way would get you genus-close for anything in the southeast.
It has really helped to know a 'plant god' like my wife's dad. And the key method is what he uses for the rare plant that stumps him (which does happen even to plant gods).
It looks close, but the way the flowers are presenting themselves makes it different from any lamium species I'm familiar with.
Lamium, scutellaria, and salvia are quite closely related. Lamium was actually my first though. And, it may indeed turn out to be a lamium, hence the request for a stamen count. I'm used to being able to dissect mint family flowers, a 'cheat' way to determine genus.
The way I identify unknown plants is to use a good key. With a good key it is only a matter of taking a close look at botanical details and narrowing it down by trial and error. That way I can get close even if it is a plant from a completely different part of the world.
First guess is a scutellaria, can't say that for certain. Any way you could dissect the flower? Pull it apart and see if you can count the stamens(pollen producing organs).
Scutellaria have 4 stamens.
Would be easy if I were right there to see the botanical minutia.
What part of the world are you in? A bit removed from my area.
AFAIK, it is a completely made up plant. Asked a few other professors and tried to find references to cultivar with no avail. It is plausible a cultivar has been named "jerusalem" in the past, as there are thousands, but no references could be found.
This is a specialty of mine. Try planting s. purpurea in a water garden pot/bucket without holes. Pure peat for soil (I use 1/3 coarse sand, must not be alkaline. Soak soil in soft water, water only with rainwater or very soft water.
Alternative would be byblis, perhaps better at catching garden pests. Or plant s. leucophyllum and shelter, much more vigor and catching ability.
Second the humidity. A rh of 70% eliminated the need for miticides in. my greenhouse, even among extremely vulnerable species. Pot growers purportedly call them "the borg" so hold no illusions about elimination vs control.
The only two games in town for commercial organic growers are bt and floating row covers. For the home gardenet, the eight year old with a badminton racket and instructions to kill all ugly green butterflies come intio their own. Collard greens can be a catch crop.
First guess as to damage is flea beetles judging by appearance. Also, is likely passiflora incarnata if you are in the US north of middle florida. Good, fruit has MAO inhibitor properties, making it a relaxing antidepressant. Also, unlike say pharma mao a/b inhibitors don't worry about eating a bit of tyramine, the santo daime drink ayahuasca without special diet so the harmine/tyrosine thing seems a bit of a myth.
Evidently the wild populations produce seed, possibly being dioecious, whereas the cultivated populations are parthenocarpic. I bet if you got a few thousand seeds and made a trial garden luther burbank style (minus the racism haha) you could develop new, more permie-friendly varieties. Most tropical fruits could benefit from such treatment as long as a permie is ruthless in culling for permie plant-values.
Apologies for lack of reply, building new greenhouse biz and my only 'puter is a crappy, crappy smart phone.
re:above, the banana indicated for the southeast united states is the "Veinte Cohol", a filipino variety that if planted around april 10th in the southeast, will produce a bunch big enough to ripen indoors by the end of october, making it field crop worthy for a large portion of the southeast, and on the south/west side of a house would produce quite reliably well into zone 7b.
I should be offering tissue culture-grown specimens of this variety some time later this year.
"Presently, borax is still available in Switzerland (15), but shipment to Germany is not permitted. In Germany a small amount (20 - 50 grams) may be ordered through a pharmacy as ant poison (it will be registered)."
Too bad they consider marijuana schedule 1, meaning no possible medical use. Their own data obviously contradicts this. This is a symptom of allowing politicians dictate drug policy as opposed to letting doctors and medical professionals dictate drug policy.
Here's a link to a non-psychoactive, 50 state legal product that has many if not most of the same benefits of simpson oil/phoenix tears. Note the "hemp oil" they refer to is not hemp seed oil, which is a good thing but completely different; this "hemp oil" is essentially simpson oil made from industrial hemp.
Maybe an enterprising caretaker could perform a simpson-style extraction on the wild hemp that grows throughout the midwest?