Early Early Bird pricing has expired, but regular Early Bird pricing is good through the end of July! If you have any questions about this course, please feel free to contact courses [at] pdxpermaculture.com
Basic surveying and layout are essential skillsets for every farmer, homesteader, designer, and consultant. In this six-day course (Sept. 8-13), Tom Ward teaches the use of many types of analog (non-battery operated) surveying tools, along with advanced skills in keyline, pond and swale layout, mapping skills, and other core competencies for design and execution of permaculture projects.
Students will become familiar with swale, terrace, ditch and pond layout, profile cross-section drawing, keyline and trail system locating, solar assessment, ditch and wiggle water way layout, small cabin orientation and pad layout, staking, note taking, and compass and map reading. We will use telescope-like devices and other hand tools such as sight levels, pocket transits, builders levels, A-frames and various vertical measurement rods, as well as measuring tapes and wheels. The course will include flagging for trails, swales and ponds, as well as observations on the landscape with mapping of topographic, ecological, and cultural data.
The 72-Hour Permaculture Design Course is a prerequisite for getting an advanced certificate from this course. Others may have the certificate held until they have a PDC certificate. You must complete all six days of the course to get your certificate. The course is open to all who have a working knowledge of Permaculture.
When: September 8-13, 2012
Where: Atlan Center, White Salmon, WA (More about venue below)
A deposit of $250.00 is due with registration. At time of registration, you can indicate when you will be ready to pay the remaining balance. Remaining balance required to secure early bird pricing will be due by the following dates:
John Polk Wrote: From my info, Cercocarpus montanus is deciduous, not evergreen.
John, I'm fairly certain that Cercocarpus montanus would be evergreen in a climate "with 3 days below freezing last year surprising everybody." It has an enormous range (much of the US west of the Mississippi, minus the plains), and if you consult the literature, you'll notice that its deciduous/evergreen status runs the gamut, generally correlating with the climate that the source is from.
So I don't really think we're disagreeing here, but I just wanted to speak up to say that this is a plant that behaves differently over it's broad range. A reminder that it's really important to check our regional assumptions/experiences at the door with all of these great inter-regional and even inter-continental conversations going on on this site!
Cercocarpus montanus...which I believe is native in some parts of Texas. Evergreen, nitrogen fixing...drought tolerant...grows to 12'+...slowwwwly.
For pine species P. edulis (Colorado Piñon), P. sabiniana (Gray Pine), P. cembroides (Mexican Piñon)...several others...
Depending on your rainfall ("central texas" is a tough descriptor to work off of, given the size of the state and huge drop-off in precipitation as you move west), you may be able to do Elaeagnus x ebbingei or Elaeagnus pungens (Silverberry).
I'd bet someone from your bioregion would have a bunch of other ideas too!
Conveniently, the specific bacteria associated with lupine is named Rhizobium lupini. I googled around for cheaper source, and like you, didn't find much.
I'd second the idea of finding some native lupin in your area, although instead of interplanting, you could just remove a small amount of topsoil around the plants, and incorporate that into the soil you will be seeding into. You should get plenty of the rhizobia that way.
Craig, I don't think this has already been mentioned, but forgive me if it has. You can also top-work them, i.e. cut them back to a stump, let new suckers coppice back, and graft or bud (budding often more common with stone fruit) onto those....see the links below for more info.
Doesn't apply to everyone here, but for those with a business tax ID, you can get wholesale prices at the following companies. Hida tends to specialize in smaller japanese hand tools, like kamas and hori horis, and other nice japanese woodworking tools as well...definitely worth perusing... Terrabonne has a much wider selection of gardening tools, including those that you mentioned. If you have a business tax id number, even if your business is completely unrelated to gardening, you can probably get a wholesale account.
This also gets down to a level of distinction and discernment that would be so much better examined through long-term documentation and monitoring, which the Pc movement is more than a little deficient in. Hopefully in a decade's time we'll have some better data, or at least stories, to support the effectiveness of these different methods.
There is another problem associated with wood chips in general (not just those containing aromatic oils and resins, but all wood chips)... they do take up nitrogen from the soil while decomposing so, under ordinary circumstances, could make it necessary to add nitrogen for the first couple of years they are in the soil.
The book also has a great chapter entitled "The Myth of Nitrogen-Nabbing Woodchips". Enjoy!
Latin would help here, are we talking Oxalis or Rumex?
Assuming we're talking Rumex acetosa (Garden Sorrel), in which case part shade can work fine, but not full shade, in my experience. I don't have as much experience with Rumex scatatus (French Sorrel), but I'd imagine it's similar.
Landscape Architecture is a pretty cut-throat field to get your start in. I did a lot of reading on it when I was choosing a major as well and decided that it looked a lot like law when you're trying to land your first job. Quite frankly, no matter how you look at it, unless you are paying for your education as you go, you will have to plan on working in a firm or for someone for a few years to pay back student loans.
Just a quick counterpoint here: I would disagree about the cut-throatness of the field. I'm not an LA, but do about 90% of what one does, and firmly believe that there is a TON more room in the professional services realm of permaculture. Way more demand than is currently being met. One of the big issues in the field is that most of the folks putting themselves out there as "permaculture designers" have very little experience (they're fairly fresh out of a PDC, don't have a good handle on design process or communicating design ideas, poor technical knowledge etc.) If you've got a good head on your shoulders, good people skills, AND a landscape architecture degree under your belt, you'll probably be able build your own practice fairly quickly. Even just being able to produce designs that LOOK professional gets you a long way in the permaculture world, because the average quality of work being done is fairly low, IMHO.
When you do your internship, find a firm that's doing the types of projects you want (sounds like broadacre?), get out in the field as much as possible, etc. etc.
I would agree to some extent around some of the I would agree with some of Lori's cost/benefit thoughts. My sense is that if you don't want to be a full-time designer...school may be overkill. If your primary interest is this managing a farmstead thing...you probably don't want to have that much debt...and probably don't need an LA degree/license. If you're managing a prominent demonstration site, and there are lots of folks coming through, that'll probably bring in enough design work in-and-of-itself.
Would be happy to give you some other thoughts if you want to contact me thru contact page on website below...
Maackia amurensis is a fairly common street tree in the Portland, OR metro area, and widely available at local nurseries. Both of those facts would tend to suggest easy culture. Sounds like a good one to play with.
As to your comment that the cold temperate region of North America is limited for large, long-lived N+ species, some of the following are native or proven in cold temperate N. America, and some of the others are sure worth trying:
Several Robinias including R. neomexicana, R. pseudoacacia, and R. viscosa.
A bunch of alders, including A. incana, A. cordata, A. rugosa, and A. tenuifolia.
Multiple species of the genera Elaeagnus, Hippophae, and Shepherdia that are pretty popular in Pc circles, notably E. umbellata, H. Rhamnoides, and S. canadensis, all hard to at least -40º F.
Equally hardy species of Myrica.
And then there are some pretty hardy (Z4-5) species in Cercocarpus and Ceanothus.
Linda Chalker-Scott has a small chapter on allelopathy in her great book The Informed Gardener Blooms Again. You can find it here.
One issue that she doesn't directly address is this:
While the chips of these aromatic species won't necessarily inhibit growth or otherwise damage plants, they will inhibit fungal consumption of lignin, and other microbial processes that break the chips down into soil. So if one of your primary considerations with mulch (and if often is) is soil building, you're better off with a species that didn't evolve aromatic oils to inhibit fungal growth.
I left home at 16 yrs, and discovered Permaculture right around the same time. I went to Bard College at Simon's Rock, which also happens to be where Dave Jacke, and a few other notable Permaculture folks went. I dropped out pretty quickly, and that has worked out well for me...as I found I learned better through direct experience...but individual results may vary.
One piece of advice I often share with young folks who are excited about Permaculture is to try finding one specific area of focus, to which Permaculture can be applied (pretty much anything), and master that as you also learn more about Permaculture. The permaculture movement hasn't been very good at providing good examples and opportunities outside of farming and gardening. But there is much work to be done in the realms of appropriate technology, economics, community organizing, etc. etc. etc. So if farming is the thing that gets you really excited, great, but don't forget that there is a whole world of much-needed activities to which permaculture can be applied.
Best of luck, and feel free to get in touch directly through any of the links below.
i have a bit of a related question ,a week or two back i took a bucket load of cuttings off of both of these,as well as a grape vine..i have them in water now. last spring i was able to get them rooted this way and gave to friends. but it took about 5 weeks or more.
would i do better potting them in soil, adding peat/loamy potting soil to the buckets and keep damp? they're kept indoors
I can't speak as much to the kiwi and goji, but with grapes, this is what has worked well for me (and is roughly what you'll find in commercial grape propagation literature):
Hardwood cuttings (a.k.a. ripe or mature growth), 4 nodes in length. Tie with rubberbands in bundles of 30-50, and pot up half their length deep in #1 or #2 pots in damp sand. Re-pot individually, with two nodes buried, when temperatures are starting to get into the upper 40s consistently. I've had close to 100% success rate with this technique, and have generally found grape propagation to be extremely forgiving, and quite tolerant of un-ideal conditions.
From what a nursery-owner friend has told me, I'd expect goji to respond well to a similar treatment. Though come to think of it, I believe she propagates by half-ripe wood in summer (in a frame, with mist, I believe).
Not sure with kiwi...I've only seen it done in a greenhouse....and a lot of the literature suggests "...in a frame." But from what you wrote, it seems like you may have had luck in the open with both goji and kiwi? Would be curious to know.
I have a few thoughts for you. Hope they're useful.
Goji: I have found this one to be a little bit difficult to establish, but once going, very productive. The main problem is usually with a sort of powdery mildew, which for some counter-intuitive reason doesn't seem to set in until we hit the DRY SEASON?! Spring growth is often very vigorous and healthy, and then come early July, the mildew sets in and causes some amount of defoliation. This seems to be more prevalent on some sites more than others, but I've never been able to reliably correlate it to obvious things like microclimate, air flow, humidity, soil quality, etc. etc. It has definitely been a head-scratcher. If anyone else has a theory, I'd be very excited to hear it!
I know of several plants around Portland that are bearing heavily....many pounds every year. They can get quite large (and hell are they thorny!), but they seem to take their time in doing so. I've definitely seen growth and fruiting rates vary widely by site...but again, haven't been able to get a sense of exactly what variables that correlates to.
Kiwi: My experience in Oregon says that you're much better off with Actinidia arguta (so-called Hardy Kiwi) or A. deliciosa (fuzzy). Between those two, A. arguta is by far my favorite, as I rarely see A. deliciosa ripen on the vine, where as A. arguta does so without fail every year. I also think the taste of A. arguta is far superior. The lack of fuzz on A. arguta also means that you can just pop them in your mouth....and the small size is cute.
As far as A. kolomikta goes, in almost a decade of working with edible landscapes in Oregon, and planting and/or tending to it at least a dozen times, I've almost never seen it fruit well (or at all!), and I've never seen it fruit reliably.
Camellia: I've found this to be a pretty easy one. One thing to keep in mind is that they can tolerate a considerable amount of shade. The most utilized tea plants I've seen in Portland are on the north wall of a 20' tall garage. They're not necessarily the most *productive*, but they put on enough growth that at least one household gets a good portion their caffeine fix taken care of.