Well...not really. For good livestock management, one has to cull as a type of natural selection in order to have healthy stock and to maintain health within the flock. If you never cull/kill one, you can eventually compromise the health of all the others by letting sickly birds remain in the flock. In domestic animal husbandry, the farmer is the predator, of sorts, and is responsible for creating the "survival of the fittest" paradigm for the good of the species he is running on his land.
It sounds lovely to just let flocks of this or that bird stroll around your lands doing beneficial things, but that's just one part of good stewardship of the animal and land. There is another part that is necessary to all good management of animals and that is killing the weaker animals so you don't keep disease and parasite carriers within the flock. It's for the good of the whole that some may have to be sacrificed.
That is, if you care about the good of the whole flock. Therein lies the part about true compassion, both for the weaker animals and for those that are compromised by their presence. If you wait to kill them when they are really sick and suffering, you've let them down. If you wait until their weak immune systems expose the whole flock to disease or parasites, you've opened up more birds to suffering and it results in having to kill birds that wouldn't have had to be killed if the job was done right in the first place.
Jay Green wrote:Eventually, you will have to kill an animal if you raise animals. Particularly a prey animal. To end suffering from injury or illness of some kind there will be a time to kill. If you cannot do this, it's not advisable to have them...unless of course you have someone who can do it for you who is on call 24/7.
If you are vegetarian because you have a heart for the animal, but you cannot provide mercy when they need it, it kind of cancels out the reason you are not eating them, isn't it?
you misunderstood me terribly, if the animal need mercy you can count on me to do it.
if I raise chickens I will need to cull some of them or sell them if I need to keep them from over populate my land, and I don't want to do that, so I am thinking in raising peacocks and sell them as ornamental birds as a way to solve this dilemma.
Maybe it was this kind of phrasing that confused me...it seems as if you are looking for a way to never kill a chicken, by using peafowl instead...but that doesn't mean you'll never have to kill a peafowl, so it left me wondering if you thought this would be the case.
Dale Hodgins wrote:These are horny ducks, they aren't rapists. I don't think that word should be kicked around loosley or for comical effect.
While I agree that rape should not be kicked around loosley, and I did strangely find this funny. I think that in this case rape is the right word. I say this because rape means non consent or the use of force. And I'm sure that poor little duck would not consent to being killed in such a fashion. No living thing would. So it is the right term. I'm trying to channel Stefan Molyneux here.
I would have to disagree with this. The ducks were mating and it's an instinct, not an act of violence. It's natural instinct and it's up to the flock owner to prevent such events from taking place. Not many matings in the wild are by consent of the female...many of them run and run and must be subdued before mating can proceed. That's just the way it goes and shouldn't be made into something dirty or bad by the observing humans..I think anthropomorphizing the situation can cause a lot of mistakes in animal husbandry from inexperienced humans.
Rape is a crime of violence, not a natural instinct, and has no place being referenced in the case of animal matings.
With a messy bottom and crop stasis, I'm wondering if he didn't have candida albicans...or thrush, as it's commonly known. Some call it sour crop and it can extend throughout the entire digestive tract and looks like gleet on the other end. Did you happen to look in his mouth for lesions?
There are a few treatments that you can keep in your arsenal that can help if your flock gets mites but I can tell you that we kept chickens for over 30 yrs before seeing a mite and only then because we got chickens from a place of poor husbandry. When I got them I had to find something that could help them that was in the realm of natural, so here are a few things you can try:
Castor oil and NuStock for leg/scale mites, wounds, worms, fungal infections: Both are effective with just one treatment, in most cases. Both are comprised of all natural ingredients that are not harmful and only beneficial. Of the two, I am impressed with both...but the castor oil also can be used for deworming, if you so desire, as well as an antibacterial and antifungal treatment for wounds. I've never had to deworm a flock in all my many years, so that's just an option if you need it. The Nustock is good for wounds, fungal skin infections, hot spots on dogs, rain rot on horses, mange, etc. and is comprised of sulfur, pine tar and mineral oil only.
Dusting for lice and mites: Wood ashes help, sulfur dust can be found in any garden department and can be used to treat roosts, bedding and nesting material, as well as the birds and is effective as well. Some use lime for dusting the birds and bedding, as well as walls and roosts. If none of these work and you have a persistent case, Pyrethrin is a natural substance derived from the chrysanthemum flower that is very good for this. Do not confuse it with Permethrin, which is a chemical preparation that is more harmful to the environment, the insects and the animals in your care...not a good one to try, in other words. I don't use DE because of it's ability to harm beneficial insects as well, though I know many throw DE around like it's money, I never recommend it.
Worms: Castor oil is safe for humans and animals alike and has been used for centuries for this. Raw pumpkin seeds contain cucurbitin, a chemical that can paralyze the worms until they detach and are flushed out of the bowel along with the feces. Ginger root is another natural antihelmintic, as is garlic. Simple soap in the water acts as a surfactant and helps to dissolve the oils that protect the skin of worms, allowing them to be killed by the digestive acids and enzymes in the bowels. Black walnut hulls, while still green, are used for deworming. Charred wood has been used for this as well and one can flake off the char and add it to the feed mix....for other livestock, just place it in their pens and they will gnaw the charred bits off the wood.
The best treatment of all is to use preventative measures such as providing good dusting opportunities all year round, clean soils underfoot by providing free range, well managed deep litter in the coop to encourage beneficial microbes underfoot and predator bugs that prey on mite larvae, feeding and watering indoors where vectors such as wild birds, rodents, etc. cannot access feed and water. Treat roosts and nesting boxes if your area is prone to this problem, but not the bedding and the bird unless you actually HAVE a problem. Feeding fermented feeds or adding mother vinegar to the water can create a hostile environment in the bowel of chickens that can help prevent worm infestations but will not deworm a bird already infested.
One very important tool that no one ever mentions and that is yearly culling for health, performance, conditioning and appearance and feed thrift. Culling for these traits can naturally eliminate the birds that carry parasite loads due to poor immune system function and old age, while also preventing problems like egg bound, internal laying, prolapse, etc.
Avian biologists claim that 90% of the flock's parasites are being carried by 5% of the flock, so by eliminating those 5% of birds in a yearly cull by targeting the traits of a bird carrying heavy loads of parasites, one can keep problems like this down to animals who thrive well with an acceptable load of parasites and also breed for more of the same.
There are other all natural treatments for these things if one wants to dig, but these are the most commonly found and some of which I've actually used and can attest to their efficacy.
Eventually, you will have to kill an animal if you raise animals. Particularly a prey animal. To end suffering from injury or illness of some kind there will be a time to kill. If you cannot do this, it's not advisable to have them...unless of course you have someone who can do it for you who is on call 24/7.
If you are vegetarian because you have a heart for the animal, but you cannot provide mercy when they need it, it kind of cancels out the reason you are not eating them, isn't it?
Here's the info I found when contemplating feeding the acorns to the chooks. The wild turkeys eat them like candy around here, so you can take these study results with a load of "acceptable risk" in mind but I passed on gathering and feeding them to the birds and let them decide for themselves if they were food that was necessary to their free range diet. Not sure that I've ever seen one of my chickens eat one, but I'm sure it happens now and again.
Cornell University’s Dept of Animal Science states: “Generally, tannins induce a negative response when consumed. These effects can be instantaneous like astringency or a bitter or unpleasant taste or can have a delayed response related to antinutritional/toxic effects … Tannins negatively affect an animal’s feed intake, feed digestibility, and efficiency of production. These effects vary depending on the content and type of tannin ingested and on the animal’s tolerance, which in turn is dependent on characteristics such as type of digestive tract, feeding behavior, body size, and detoxification mechanisms.”
Their studies have shown the following information worth noting:
Animals fed diets with a level of tannins under 5% experience
depressed growth rates,
low protein utilization,
damage to the mucosal lining of the digestive tract,
alteration in the excretion of certain cations, and
increased excretion of proteins and essential amino acids.
In poultry, small quantities of tannins in the diet cause adverse effects
levels from 0.5 to 2.0% can cause depression in growth and egg production,
levels from 3 to 7% can cause death.
I've never owned a dish washer but have seen plenty of them in action....you can have 'em. First, the wasted time and water to rinse the dishes BEFORE the actual washing? ReallY? They have every great technology known to man but a person has to pre-wash dishes before machine washing them? It makes no practical sense to me at all. Then, I've seen the dishes that come out of those machines and I'd not eat off one...the food residue left on the silverware and pans is gross.
We've always washed dishes in bleach water and so the issue of germs is a moot point, be they in the sponge, rag or on the dishes. The time it takes to do the dishes,one would have them done before the machine got up to a dull roar. Air dry vs. wasting electricity to dry dishes? That's a no brainer...that's the same as comparing machine clothes dryers to a clothesline. No contest.
They claim they use less water but if you add in the pre-rinse, the actual wash and the having to wash the dirty dishes left behind after the machine is done, it just all dissolves into the ridiculous, as do the claims that they make life easier and save time. Some advancements are not advancements at all, just clever marketing ploys that fool people into thinking that they have progressed past an outdated method of doing something...but when it comes to doing dishes, they get cleaner, use less energy, time and effort simply by doing it by hand. And the knowledge that they are indeed clean..well..that's priceless.
From where I'm sitting that Emperor isn't wearing a stitch of clothes...
Standard recommendation is 10:1 ratio but I find 15:1 a better fit for a mature, breeding age rooster. As they age into later years and breeding isn't a goal, you can get by with a few less hens and still not have too much wear and tear on the hens as the rooster won't be as vigorous.
For 2 young roosters I'd have nothing less than 30 hens for good breeding and minimal fighting for hens. YMMV
I agree with what Adam has stated! Good advice. I'll also add that she is not producing enough milk right now to warrant going through all the trouble of trying to milk her...it may seem like she is feeding this big calf and would have plenty of milk but as time goes along and the calves eat more and more graze, they will only nip under the cow now and again. This is a natural drying up of the mother as calves age. She may still produce a little because the calf does continue to nurse but that is all she really has...it's not that she is not letting it down, she is only producing that much.
The calf is doing damage to her teats and may even be causing some mastitis in that large quarter...you might feel of it to see if it is hard or hot to touch. In the long run, that kind of nursing can really cause scaring of the teat. It would be in her best interest, and yours, to separate her completely from that calf. You can do this more easily if the calf is placed where she can still see it, smell it, etc. but cannot physically be in the same fencing with it. Eventually that bond will start to fade when the calf is no longer nursing and living in her space.
It would be interesting to see how it goes along, maybe you could check back here with updates?
Locks on your animal cages and electric net fencing around your fruit trees and gardens are well within your rights on your own property...the fencing, of course, is for the "rabbits and deer" that try to damage your fruit trees~if it shocks a kid, it won't be any permanent damage or even leave a mark...but it will leave an impression. Any psycho dad at that point would have to explain to the court why his child was trespassing on your property unattended by an adult. That and a good perimeter fencing with locks on the gates should be a good fix.
If you have to lock your property down like Ft. Knox, so be it. As for the pushy neighbor? Privacy fencing....lots of tall privacy fencing so that he cannot even see what you are doing on your property, let alone complain of it.
I've raised white chickens for 37 years in high raptor populated areas and never lost a white chicken to one(most of those flocks were 30-50+ birds)...only lost one chicken to a raptor, actually, and that was a barred rock who roosted up in the barn loft. I always have many white birds in my flocks, as I have raised White Leghorns, Brahmas and White Plymouth Rocks many times...my current flock has White Rocks and Delawares in it as the majority of the flock. Free ranging is as successful as your preparation for it and, when well prepared, losses to raptors are minimal, be the chicken black, speckled or white.
CX aren't the only white bird one can raise on free range with great success, as my success with the several white bird breeds I have utilized in the past can attest. Your friend's one experiment is not conclusive, nor is the mortality rate of the CX. I've raised them with 0% mortality rate. Many people do if they use the proper methods.
CX aren't normally part of a DP free range flock and I process them around 3 mo., so they are a non issue for free ranging. I free ranged 54 of them all over 3 acres last year without one loss to a raptor, but they only ranged for less then 3 mo., so this makes them an easy bird to free ranging successfully, as the longer a bird is out on free range in its life, the more chances it will be preyed upon. As these birds are primarily raised for meat, being soft-hearted isn't really compatible with raising the CX breed anyway.
From that description it sounds less of a kid issue and more of a parent issue, so the screening of the type of people included in the project might be a more efficient criteria, and not so much as if they have kids or do not have kids. Any mother who goes off and lets her kids wander around creating messes and getting into trouble is the issue...not the mere presence of the children. Teaching and supervision belongs to the parents and should not be considered a community problem unless it's going to be approached with a community solution of daycare, with different people taking turns on child care.
Not the kid's fault but the character of the parents at that point....ground rules and consequences are a good place to start, as it's entirely unreasonable and irrational to expect that your community have only people who do not currently have children and will commit to never having children for the duration of the project. Maybe this part of the experiment should be developed along with the land and other aspects~ proper social etiquette and structure within a planned community, with learning and instruction towards building it into your project as well. One simply cannot have a community with any level of success without rules of how each are to conduct their behaviors that affect the whole community.
I expect that taking a school age kid and yanking them out of school/sports/whatever else and taking them to a farm and suddenly demanding a huge chore list when non were demanded before is going to have a profound and possibly very negative effect. Add to that some very negative social encounters in the new situation and they will have a strong opinion of the country life.
That expectation isn't exactly accurate..it all depends on how it is approached and the nature of the family structure and the children. We moved to 110 acres when I was 10, the youngest of 9 siblings, only 4 of which were still home and in school, but where the older sibs floated back and forth from "out there" to where we lived. We developed land, built log cabins, lived a mile from anyone and 20 mi. from anything, foraged and grew most of the food, did without, made do, no utilities and all work was the hard kind from daylight to dark...and often before daylight.
The high school kids were the most affected but not by much..those same individuals have been working all their lives to get BACK to our homesteading lives, so it didn't have a "profound and very negative" effect on them at all. Nor did it on any of us. We still participated in school sports and school functions as Dad permitted and still attended public school, though now the walk to the bus was a mile.
As for the OP situation, I've been functioning as a single, working mother for the past 27 years and raised 3 boys while doing a lot of the same type of living you want to achieve with your spouse and children. When you have a partner that doesn't want to participate it's much the same as having no partner at all...you do it by yourself. You can lead a horse to water and you cannot make it drink...but you can salt its food and make it thirsty, as my granny always said.
Lead by example, work at all the things you wish to accomplish without complaining that she never helps or participates in your dream. Just put your head down and work, get to where you want to be with or without her. Could be when she sees how much you enjoy it, how much money is saved by it, how much more available cash is evident and can be used on wants instead of always on needs...could be that she might get some common sense and help you in your goals to better your family situation.
If not...just keep working and get what you want out of life, the same as she is doing by NOT participating. Each to his own if that's all the partnership than you have..it's much the same as not having a partner at all. I've done it, accomplished it and it can be done...with her or without her.
I agree with Chris! Set boundaries, implement a system that accounts for children, delegate authority over supervision of said children and come to viable solutions that account for the fact of children. Nearly every homestead in America was worked with the presence and, eventually, the help of children. If doing it better means that children are eliminated, then it's a very short term homestead...they are the next generation that will carry on the work being done.
Valerie Acquard wrote:I am facing my first ever chicken slaughter Tuesday. I am making my own bleach jug cone thanks so some advice I've seen on here.
I am looking for more advice though on the plucking. I have a huge metal pot I have purchased just for this. At a yard sale it was a steal! But I don't have a propane burner like I've seen more people using to heat their water. I do have a access to a weber BBQ, and some lump hard wood charcoal. As long as I'm temping the water this should work right? And then I can use the coals to burn off the pin feathers right?
Also, does anyone wash their chickens before plucking? I am interested in keeping some, or most of the feathers, but this bird has been getting down right dirty the last few days. She is white (my neighbor didn't have the heart to kill her or I would never have a white bird) so the dirt really shows. Or is the hot plucking water enough to clean the feathers?
I'm excited about this. I know it's the death of an animal, but I feel like I am ready for this, and can't help but lick my lips every time I pick her up. She just feels juicy to me. I never felt this way about the rabbits we used to raise. We will raise rabbits again one day, but they just don't compare to a well fed chicken. I'm hoping she will be tender enough for maybe some home made buttermilk deep fry.
Curious as to why you would never have a white chicken?
No, no one washes a chicken before plucking. The scalding water is just to loosen the feathers, though some add a little soap to the water to get the water to penetrate under the feathers better, I've never seen the need for it. The water penetrates just fine without it...but it won't get the bird clean, with or without soap, as the bird is in the water for mere seconds only.
You can collect the feathers into a pillow case afterwards and wash them in the washing machine and dry in the dryer.
You don't burn off pin feathers..these are normally scraped or picked off. I think you are referring to fine hairs that folks singe off but those are easily scrubbed off when you have the bird in your sink for a final cleaning...a clean scratcher will do the trick. No singeing necessary.
I would never remove a chick from a hen...she will brood it far better than we ever could, especially a lone chick. A chick raised by a hen is much better on forage, is healthier, is better at flocking and socializing. There really is no need to handle chickens unless one shows birds, so the increased flightiness of the chick raised by the hen is a desirable trait in a flock..it can mean the difference between life an death out on free range.
I've never had a rooster kill another and I agree with getting a young cockerel that can learn the job from the oldster. This has worked well for me in the past and resulted in the oldster being eventually dethroned but not harmed in any way and him still having his few old gals to herd around. It's immensely easier on free range for two roosters to avoid one another, particularly if the top roo is the young up and comer of the flock and has won his position from the elder.
The only sure and true way to tell is to take them off the roost and night, insert a gloved finger gently in the vent and palpate the next day's egg through the intestinal wall. Don't press on it but you can sure enough feel it in there. That is a chicken laying the next day. Mark all those who do not have an egg in the chute. The next night, do it again...any birds who were marked the night before and still don't have an egg in the chute are likely not laying steadily enough to pay for their feed. I can forgive a chicken who lays every other day in peak laying season...but not one that doesn't lay for two days in a row.
Now, this time of year is not the time to determine laying, as most birds..even the good layers...can have hit or miss laying during molt season as the nutrients needed for laying steadily are diverted into new feather growth. The very best time to test for laying is mid to late March...any bird that IS laying will be laying at that time, full bore.
The only reason I am culling in the fall is I'm no longer into high egg production now that my kids are grown and moved out, so I'm nursing along an older flock who free ranges for most of their nutrition and only needs a little supplementing in the evenings. We have a history, this flock and I, and I'm allowing a little sentimentality to enter into our growing old together. They are all too old to expect full laying from them and some are so old that they are showing signs of body changes and moving a little more slowly...I want to cull them before they get any laying issues or joint pain or have a hard time in the winter. I'll keep a bird for sentimental reasons for a season or two, but will not ever let one become debilitated from old age issues....that would cause suffering and also waste her meat. These birds mean too much to me to have them wasted.
This will likely be my last flock, so I'm letting them go along as long as possible..but all good things come to an end.
Adam Klaus wrote:beautiful hens Jay, very nice. how do you go about locating a good breeder for WRs? Must say, I'm interested.
This is the man to contact...honestly. This man knows more about WR breeding probably than anyone in the nation and he can direct you to folks who have bloodlines from some of his birds. I heard he got out of the WRs recently due to scaling down for health reasons, but he can give you some names of breeders who have his lines and others.
You'll want the king of DP birds for laying and for meat...the one breed known to be superlative at both and are hardy, have great feed conversion, longevity of lay and pack on more meat than any other standard breed chicken and still put the eggs in the nest every day. They forage on free range well, socialize well, go broody enough to reproduce but not so broody it ruins their laying records, a calm and regal bird. White Rocks!
Here are some sample pics of heritage line WRs from excellent breeders.
This last pic are my birds....6 yrs old and still putting eggs in the nest enough to pay for their feed..and these are just from old hatchery stock genetics. This will be their last year, I'm afraid, as they are no longer laying as well as they used to do but they have given year after year of excellent laying, right up on par with the Black Australorp. The difference being, when I process these old gals, there will be plenty of meat on the carcass. They are a good 2-3 lbs heavier than most all other standard breeds I've owned.
It's the time of the year for a little slow down, especially if you are experiencing high temps.
My birds slowed down during the hottest part of July but are starting to pick up a little, though they are molting pretty steadily now. My mature hens are 6 yrs old and 4 yrs old and, out of 8 hens, I'm getting 3-4 eggs only...and two of those are from two of the 6 yr old gals. One of my hens is just off a brood nest and mothering some birds, so she won't be laying just yet. So..that leaves only 3-4 eggs out of 7 girls, even though they are pretty ancient in chicken years to be laying that steadily in a summer slowdown time. Normally I'm getting 5-6 eggs from 8 old girls.
I've got a similar pic at that age...so funny!!! My CX and the DP bird were free ranged together and fed the same ration, so not as big a difference in size but still remarkable difference all the same. The one on the left is a little cockerel and the CX is a pullet.
Could be...free rangers are very deft at getting out of enclosures and more so than birds who have never known freedom. They will spend their whole day walking the fence and looking for weaknesses..and they will be looking overhead for any way to leap the top. The only thing I've seen that will hold in dedicated free rangers is electric poultry netting or extreme, fortified fencing with a topper. The only thing we use the deer netting for now is to keep them OUT of something.
I know there is a world of options in building one of these, but the post should instruct a beginner well enough to build one successfully. Let me know what you think.
I caught your build and blog over on the Chicken Forum! VERY nice build and design! More folks need to be aware of how cheap and versatile this kind of construction can be. I've even made sheep sheds out of it that withstood incredible high winds without even moving....cattle panels are right up there with duct tape and zip ties for me~truly a material that every homesteader needs to keep on hand.
Jessica Gorton wrote:Are there any other 2 gal jugs that people have found that worked as well? I'd like to raise chickens, but I'm not a fan of bleach...
But your neighbor may be....ask around about who uses bleach and see if they can start to purchase it in the 2 gal. instead of the 1 gal. jugs...offer to pay for it, if you have no other way of obtaining one. I've not found any other kind of jug that conforms to the body as well as the bleach jug though some report using kitty litter jugs and such, I've not tried them. They don't seem to have the right shape, from just eyeballing them.
Bob Blackmer wrote:Jay~ I like the bleach bottle idea. That's some great recycling/up-cycling. I was wondering how you attached them to what ever you might be using, and how long do they hold up?
I attach them with roofing tacks..they have a broad head that doesn't pull through the plastic. They can last for quite a few years like that. One can even place a piece of wood over the jug lip and attach the nails to the wood so that the stress points are not on the plastic directly around the nails but I've never had to do that. I've not had one pull through and fall down yet and that's with many a heavy bird being processed.
Yes...I agree. Free ranging allows the birds to decide where and what kind of nutrition they glean at different times of the year. As they are constantly on the move and utilize different grasses in different seasons, none are ever overgrazed nor are the insect life completely predated. The only way any one area could ever be over foraged would be if one overstocks their pasture/range area and they obtain breeds that will not move away from the coop area. Starting with good stock known for good foraging is key...production reds, blacks, Buff Orps, silkies, EEs..all are not suited to long range foraging. I've not seen~nor heard accounts of~ them get very far from the coop area.
My birds forage all over 3 acres and into the woods adjacent to the meadow, spreading their manure into all areas, while depleting none. We've seen the overall pasture improve over a couple year's time, as well as our fruit trees on this land producing for the first time in 15 years on this property. And that's with a small flock...imagine the potential of a larger flock on this space. I free ranged 54 CX the first year and was simply amazed at the ground they covered and the amount of hunting and foraging they did...they barely made it back to the coop before dark.
Yes, I recently gave a processing demonstration where the people had these very deep, neatly made killing cones of aluminum flashing. They were a disaster as each and every bird was able to flail about so much that it popped out the top. I was quite disgusted with the inefficiency and ugliness of it all,as many were there to see chickens killed for the first time.
Finally I had to explain why this was happening so they wouldn't get the idea that this was all part of the process and necessary. It isn't. The cones that they were using are slick, not at all shaped to provide good conformation to the chicken's body and were too wide at the top to prevent the birds from getting their legs back in and levering themselves out of the cone. Because there was not allowance for the shoulder width in these cones, the birds could easily shrug their shoulders and wings enough to contribute to the flopping out as well. They also could withdraw their heads back into the cones making it necessary to reach up and get them over and over.
Then I pulled out my $3 2 gal. bleach jug cone, mounted it on the fence and showed them how a killing cone is supposed to perform. The birds we were killing that day were approx. 13 lb CX birds and a few BO hens. They all fit equally well in the bleach jug cone, not one bird was able to flop out, no excessive struggling could be performed because feet were outside the jug and could not be placed back into the cone, the shoulders couldn't shrug..they fit tightly into the jug that molded neatly around their bodies as their weight pulled against the plastic.
Here's a few pics of the cheapest, best cone one can use...and they've never let me down, last for years, are easy to clean and hold any size bird I've been able to grow~with never a bird flopping out even once:
I've always chuckled over this tale! Love it! Also love it because it is similar to a story I know of someone in my county that hit a buck on the road, merely stunning it. Loaded him in the truck and took it home, planning to shoot him later and claim he killed it with his bow. He tied it to the porch post in case it awakened while he went in to have some supper. The deer awakened. It then proceeded to run off with the porch post still tied to his neck, causing part of the porch to sag and be torn up a bit. They saw that deer later with a length of rope around its neck but no one ever got a shot at him. The post from the porch was not still attached to the rope...
Rick Roman wrote:Thanks Jay. I've heard so many great things about fermented feed here on permies, but don't remember hearing anything about its effect on egg flavor. Gotta try it.
It has more benefits than that, even! But, you can also improve the taste of your eggs in that manner by simply adding ACV to the water on a continual basis...but that doesn't yield the same benefits as the FF, so I no longer have to do that to get the better flavor of eggs. Now I just feed the FF.
Su Ba wrote:Jay, really interesting! How do you make the fermented feed? I'd like to try it on my own birds.
Here's a thread on BYC about it......there are a couple of them there. This thread was started when I was researching better ways to feed meat birds and it sort of evolved from there. I've learned a few things since starting it, so the whole thing is a good read as others have experimented and found their own revelations about FF:
I'll never go back to just feeding dry feeds any longer..the benefits have been myriad and all good. There's a thread on here about them also wherein I describe the list of benefits of this type of feeding.