Earthworks, ponds, swales, hugelkultur, tefa.
Introducing a creek where there currently is no creek. 4 dvds.
greywater, hot water from compost; pooper; soapnuts; laundry
food forest, polycultures, guilds, intro to gardening.
I have been looking for a place to purchase, at least 3 acres, but have been having a really hard time finding land. I have spent what must be days online looking for empty land, I had a realtor that claimed to specialize in farm land, I can't find what I'm looking for.
What I'm looking for:
-empty land at least 3 acre
-within 45 minute drive of a decent sized city in NC (Raleigh, Durham, Charlotte, Winston etc)
-no HOA, no covenants, no restrictions
-Not in a neighborhood
-Has some flat areas
-Ability to have power and high speed internet to site
-Water on site(spring stream river or pond)
-not land locked, able to access
-not next to a highway, power lines, sewage plant or the like
Honestly I can't find anything listed that isn't either really bad land or hundreds of acres for millions of dollars.
I'm very interested to see how this turns out, keep us updated Paul! The showers look great! I bet the pile is still getting warmed up.
One thing to consider is that while pex is a great product and relatively inexpensive it has a lower heat conductivity factor. Copper is a much better conductor than pex. I've read as little as 12% in some places, other places say 60% more. I guess you could do a cost analysis if you wanted. You could also do a retro fit to the pile, add another new pile next to the first one, use cooper in that one or a ton more pex.
I picked up some pex off Amazon for $28 for 100 feet. Copper pipe on there is running about $110 for 100 feet.
If it were me, but of course its not, the nerd in me would do two similar piles one with pex the other with cooper and compare in an experiment.
You got the process right. I generate my word document and create the content. From there I typically hand it off to my graphic designer, he makes the ebook cover graphic and then themes to ebook content to the cover and dresses things up a bit. In word you can go to File > save as > PDF or if you have an older version there is a free converter called CutePDF which works great.
I can't emphasize this enough, with ebooks, the cover is EVERYTHING. Good content will mean nothing if you have a bad cover.
After that I load it into a service that automates the payment process and delivery of the ebook. There are a lot of services out there, but I like getdpd the best Check it out here GetDPD Click here
It is $10 a month, but if you sell a few a month its worth it. I literally don't have to do anything and the money just shows up. Done and Done. The other advantage of this service is that you can have the ebooks stamped, so if someone does share your copyrighted material, you know who it is that shared it.
I don't recommend Amazon, they take too much and have restrictions. On top of that, most ebooks on there don't ever make $500, about 5% make above that and about 2% make more than a few thousand. The other advantage of get dpd type of service is that they do affiliates. This means you contact someone with a similar topic website, say, I have this product, here is a free review copy if you like it and will do a post about it, I'll give you 20% of each sale you generate. This means you can sell your ebook without having the traffic (yet, while you're building a following). If you are very targeted with who you approach, you can get some sales.
When you contact a blog to see if they will do a review or become an affiliate keep these things in mind:
1. is it highly relevant to their blog, do your homework!
2. Keep it simple and remove barriers to sign up as an affiliate
3. Demonstrate why its relevant and valuable to them specifically
4. Be professional, friendly, knowledgeable and responsive.
Remember they are helping you, even if you have affiliate programs that pays them, demonstrate value and be appreciative.
In Paul's podcast he mentioned how angry he gets when people email him like he owes them sometime. I have people all the who email me, "how dare you do it this way!" or "you need to post this" or they want me to cover their stuff and its so off base from what I do or I have no idea who they are. Build relationships before you need something and do things for others before you ask things of them. People are willing to do a lot for a friend, that's what you should be.
Totally Lisa! I have been there and it is very difficult to overcome. I usually come home, change, eat dinner and watch a tv show. at the end of that show, I turn off the TV and go to work. It's hard, but it will mean the difference between a life of coming home feeling drained versus realizing the potential of an empowered life. I used to get home at 5:20 eat and chill for an hour and then work untill 11pm. You can do it!
So as mentioned I run a website, which is on tiny houses. Each month we have a online get together where we have a few guests and talk about some topic as it relates to simple living. Paul's podcast inspired me to do this months chat on building micro businesses and simple living. It is the ultimate pairing, reduce you financial needs through simple living while boosting your income. Below are the details, its all free and always a good time.
This month we will have Kacie Erickson, Ryan Mitchell and Macy Miller will be on to talk about businesses and tiny houses. How to set up your own micro business to free yourself from the rat race and start to maximize your life's potential! We will talk about how to go about setting up and running your own business, limitations and benefits of doing that in a tiny house. The more people who are a part of this conversation the better off we will all be, log in and join us with your ideas, questions and concerns, lets hash some info out together!
This chat will be:
At first we used cement mixing trays that we just sat on the ground and filled with fresh hay. They have slick bottoms so they just slid when we pushed the coop. Now we have milk crates filled with hay and we hang on hooks on the inside of the door, makes it a little easier and yet still removable.
Now that I think about it, Paul uses a mobile coop to lock the hens up in at night in his paddocks. You could do the same thing with this, just open the food hatch and use your paddock fencing option around it.
It also depends on the room, if you can dim the lights or shade the windows. Since you are going to be doing a good number of training sessions I'd spend the money for a quality projector made for business presentations. They have come down a lot in price and I'll echo what people said about extra bulbs, they are pricey.
For the sound system check out the Fender Passport systems. They are very simple, portable and reasonably rugged. Don't forget to do research on a good mic, it can make all the difference even if it isn't an expensive one. Lapel mics are good for talks.
I never expected to end up living off my residual incomes, but this year I left my day job because I was earning more off the residual than my day job. Starting out I had no special skills, advantages or knowledge of any of this, but I researched a lot. I started out saying, "all I want to do is cover the cost of my web hosting" The next thing I know, I was earning 10 times that, the dollars were real, so I decided to work at it a bit more.
I live a simple life, but its a good one by any modern standards and I do more and enjoy it more than many. Paul is right, you really just have to get out there and do it, if you don't try you never achieve anything. You start out small, a few dollars a month and it builds. Things seem to slowly snowball when you do what you love. This applies to web traffic, readers, income and happiness, always snowballing.
I use a mix of Google adsense, ebooks, published books, events, affiliate sales, and teaching permaculture mini-workshops. I try to avoid physical products or things that can't scale easily; I prefer to automate things as much as I can. Once you start to earn a little, you can work a little less, which you take that time and work to come up with another way to add a few dollars. Stacking functions is the perfect concept for how you build this. As you do, you not only add to what is coming in, but it seems to increase in magnitude (that snowball effect).
A first it was a few cents, then it was a few dollars from adsense, then since I had built a following, I could charge $15 an ebook. The ebook established me as an expert, so people started seeking me out, so I am rolling out a conference now that is $300 a ticket. We got some things in the works that will bring it to another level.
The level of freedom that you get from this is small to start, but it builds, so you do what you want and stop being a wage slave. It has a profound impact in your life and in your business. The best part is that I do what I love with people that I have an amazing connection with. The difference between this and my day job really struck me one day when a talented coworker of mine got laid off because it was a spreadsheet decision and no one in the office cared. Compare that to my business now, I know these people, we care about each other and we work together because we like each other, not because we got hired into the team.
I couldn't agree more with this podcast, I have the exact same sentiments. I've been of the mind set that you need to set the ground work for success then "just do it". That attitude has worked out well, I had no knowledge on how to build a business, sell products, or do marketing, but I researched it and did it. The outcome has been this year I left my day job because I was earning more residual income than I was at my 9 to 5!
So it is totally possible, with a lot of hard work and a commitment to producing results. For me it meant working 9-5 then coming home and working 6 hours, fast forward to today and I'm thankful that I spent that time the way I did. It takes time, hard work, patience and being smart about where you put your time and energy. Like they said, don't think you are going to make millions, but if you can cover your cell phone bill each month without having to do much for it, awesome! That's how I started, I said "I just want to cover my costs for web hosting", the rest is history.
My stuff generally focuses on web based ventures, I try to stay away from tangible good because of the overhead that comes with that, but you learn some principals and you can apply them universally most of the time. One thing that I have struggled with is how to make the jump to other markets or niches. I have a fairly niche site, so my market is limited, if people have strategies I'd love to hear them.
As you do this, you will see that things have a snowball effect to them, you grow slowly at first, but it has a compounding effect. As it grows, you earn a little more, which means you can spend a little more time on it, then it grows more and you earn more.
Paul, I like this topic a lot and think the outcome can have life changing impacts. I'd love to chat sometime with you about it, maybe even a Part 2 of residual incomes podcast?
I am glad to see 2 votes for scythe Supply, they are who I went with. I got their outfit/kit: scythe, snath, stone, stone holder, pening jig, and a how to book for $190
I have used the Scythe I got from them several times and like it a lot. Once you get the hang of the motion you can move right a long. For full disclosure, this can be hard work, you are moving your whole body with it and you'll have to take some breaks. I wouldn't have to mow a large lawn or field with this, but to clear some fence line, knock down some tall grass or make limited quantities of hay this will work well. The grass after this will be somewhat rough so this is more utilitarian than anything, for areas where I'd like to have a "lawn" , I'm still going to use a lawn mower
The one thing that we tried and need to improve is that the autofeed (the [_] shaped PVC thing) doesn't work as well as we liked, sometimes it gets clogged. I think the angle of the elbow is too sharp, that will be an update for version 5.0.
With this system since the chickens have all the grass and dirt to root for bugs, we have feed available, but they eat very little of it. maybe a few ounces a day for all 15 birds (we have multiple coops, not shown).
I am working my way to a paddock shift system, but wanted to share our current setup in case people wanted to see a chicken tractor setup that works well. I know Paul isn't keen on chicken tractors, but this system works really well for us and I think the chickens thrive in it. We let the chickens out every now and then, but we give each chicken at least 10 square feet while in these. We have had a few losses over the years to predators, but generally pretty good.
This is version 4.0
The tractor can be moved by most people, there is a hatch to easily access the food and let the chickens walk in and out, We have a hanging waterer, roost bars at different levels inside. It gets moved every day. In the summer we flip the tarp to the silver side to reflect the heat (and run it in the shade), in winter we flip it to absorb the heat. In this method they get new food and ground every day, I have never seen the chicken poop build up and in three years I have done about an hour of cleaning in this thing.
We are in Charlotte, NC so we run them in this year round.
This is what I currently have, it gets moved every day. In the summer we flip the tarp to the silver side to reflect the heat (and run it in the shade), in winter we flip it to absorb the heat. I like this setup a lot, but would like to move to the paddock system like I mentioned but want it to be made even easier. With this system we have lost 2 chickens over the past 3 years to predators (we are in a somewhat urban area), but they were getting old and soon to be harvested anyway.
I was hoping to not have to shut them in every night, I'd design the food forest to have plenty for them to eat and have an auto waterer so if I had to go out of town for a few nights I could. Right now I run chicken tractors that I can leave them be for a week or so. I'd want to design it to be equally as little work.
I was curious, when setting up a forest garden and having a few chickens running through them how do people handle the below. I was thinking of having a few sections that were fenced in so I could just let them be, then rotate in a paddock shift like system:
I am finishing up building my home and soon it will be time for me to finish out my kitchen, I will be adding a solar system in a year, but I was going to track the 12 month power usage to determine size of my system.
I heard that induction hot plates are very efficient, but it looks like they are pretty high powered. Does anyone have any experience with them or have an idea how practical they are if I want to move to a 100% solar powered option?
So I am moving to some land and will be putting in a 1 kw solar panel off the grid (batteries) system, because of the location of the house it isn't going to work to put the panels on the house, but there is a perfect place 450 feet away that gets great solar exposure. So my question is, will this distance present a problem? What voltage drop will I experience with this distance and would it be better to convert it to AC at the panels or at the house?
About a year ago I had a chance to attend a two day class taught by Neil Kinsey, I literally took 30 pages of notes front and back, my mind was fried every day because this stuff (for a level 2 gardener) was complicated. I didn't know about the DVD and I just ordered it (via Paul's link) so I plan to watch it a few more times.
I really love Helen's perspective on this, I think she is the perfect balance for Paul on a subject like this and she obviously brings a huge amount of experience in a pretty humble way. I think the big take aways for me were that it isn't just NPK, its more about the relationships between the elements and to realize that in science, there are no truths, there are only theories.
Black Mountain is an awesome place! I lived in Asheville for 5 years, but have spent a good bit of time in Black Mountain. I live in Charlotte right now, but would be happy to swing by when I am up that way. As someone pointed out you have Earth Haven right in the same town, which represents one of the strongest intentional communities in the US and also is a think tank in terms of permaculture. In terms of permaculture in NC Earth Haven is an amazing resource. The only think about our climate here is the humidity, it can be awful at times and it does get hot here too. The other thing you will need to content with is our local red clay.
Red Clay at first seems difficult to work with, but it is high in nutrient and minerals because they are negatively charged particles and attract important elements. The down side to it is that water infiltration is really difficult and ability to hard pan so easily if it dries out when exposed. If you do an initial till, just realize that it will make clods and then they dry out into hard balls if you don't amend it heavily right away.
The other note is that clay particles have an enormous amount of surface area. In a table spoon of clay, you have the surface area equivalent of a football field... Literally. What does this mean? When you amend soils you can put in a dump truck of compost into a large bed and it barley looks any different. It almost looks like your compost just disappears. The name of the game is to get as much mass in between those clay particles as possible. I typically try to kick start things with a ton of compost and Peat Moss (or coconut coir for a more sustainable option). From there I will do cover crops and crop and drop along the way. I will broad fork as needed to make sure there isn't any hard pan and to improve water infiltration.
So when you get here and start to set up your beds, don't be sparring with the compost, go all in.
Yes, the whole world has water quality issues, but it is site specific. What are the problems with your site?
I am looking for a way to purify water for drinking and cooking around 10-50 gallons a day so it is safe. I am still shopping for a 20-30 acre site right now, but there is a chance that I will be in farm country with potential chemical seepage and possible livestock manures entering the water ways. Even in the best of locations you could face issues, I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I would like to avoid filters and chemicals because of their impacts on the environment (waste after use, impacts of manufacturing, etc). I know I can boil water, but that will not get rid of chemical compounds and if you have ever canned, you know how long it takes for large quantities of water to start boiling.
As of 2006, waterborne diseases are estimated to cause 1.8 million deaths each year while about 1.1 billion people lack proper drinking water.
Water generally needs treatment before use, depending on the source and the intended use (with high standards required for drinking water). The quality of water from household connections and community water points in low-income countries is not reliably safe for direct human consumption. Water extracted directly from surface waters and open hand-dug shallow wells nearly always requires treatment.
Appropriate technology options in water treatment include both community-scale and household-scale point-of-use (POU) designs.
The most reliable way to kill microbial pathogenic agents is to heat water to a rolling boil. Other techniques, such as varying forms of filtration, chemical disinfection, and exposure to ultraviolet radiation (including solar UV) have been demonstrated in an array of randomized control trials to significantly reduce levels of waterborne disease among users in low-income countries.
Over the past decade, an increasing number of field-based studies have been undertaken to determine the success of POU measures in reducing waterborne disease. The ability of POU options to reduce disease is a function of both their ability to remove microbial pathogens if properly applied and such social factors as ease of use and cultural appropriateness. Technologies may generate more (or less) health benefit than their lab-based microbial removal performance would suggest.
The current priority of the proponents of POU treatment is to reach large numbers of low-income households on a sustainable basis. Few POU measures have reached significant scale thus far, but efforts to promote and commercially distribute these products to the world's poor have only been under way for a few years.
On the other hand, small-scale water treatment is reaching increasing fractions of the population in low-income countries, particularly in South and Southeast Asia, in the form of water treatment kiosks (also known as water refill stations or packaged water producers). While quality control and quality assurance in such locations may be variable, sophisticated technology (such as multi-stage particle filtration, UV irradiation, ozonation, and membrane filtration) is applied with increasing frequency. Such microenterprises are able to vend water at extremely low prices, with increasing government regulation. Initial assessments of vended water quality are encouraging.
Whether applied at the household or community level, some examples of specific treatment processes include:
Porous ceramic filtration, using either clay or diatomaceous earth, and oriented as either cylinder, pot, or disk, with gravity-fed or siphon-driven delivery systems. Silver is frequently added to provide antimicrobial enhancement
Intermittently operated slow-sand filtration, also known as biosand filtration
Chlorine disinfection, employing calcium hypochlorite powder, sodium hypochlorite solution, or sodium dichloroisocyanurate (NaDCC) tablets
Chemical flocculationW, using either commercially produced iron or aluminum salts or the crushed seeds of certain plants, such as Moringa oleifera
Mixed flocculation/disinfection using commercially produced powdered mixtures
Irradiation with ultraviolet light, whether using electric-powered lamps or direct solar exposure
membrane filtration, employing ultrafiltrationW or reverse osmosis filter elements preceded by pretreatment
Some appropriate technology water supply measures include:
Deep wells with submersible pumpsW in areas where the groundwater (aquifers) are located at depths >10 m.
Shallow wellsW with lined walls and covers.
rainwater harvesting systems with an appropriate method of storage, especially in areas with significant dry seasons.
Fog collection, which is suitable for areas which experience fog even when there is little rain.
Air wellW, a structure or device designed to promote the condensation of atmospheric moisture.
Handpumps and treadle pumps are generally only an option in areas is located at a relatively shallow depth (e.g. 10 m). The Flexi-Pipe Pump is a notable exception to this (upto 25 meter). For most deeper aquifers (<10 m), submersible pumps placed inside a well) are used. Treadle pumps for household irrigation are now being distributed on a widespread basis in developing countries. The principle of Village Level Operation and MaintenanceW is important with handpumps, but may be difficult in application.
Condensation bagsW and condensation pits can be an appropriate technology to get water, yet yields are low and are (for the amount of water obtained), labour intensive. Still, it may be a good (very cheap) solution for certain desperate communities.
The hippo water rollerW and Q-drum allow more water to be carried, with less effort and could thus be a good alternative for ethnic communities who do not wish to give up water gathering from remote locations, assuming low topographic relief.
The roundabout playpumpW, developed and used in southern Africa, harnesses the energy of children at play to pump water.
tel jetson wrote:I would do a nice, solid greywater treatment with reed beds and hungry floating aquatics like Lemna species, et cetera, followed by a slow sand filter for potable water.
90% on bacteria seems pretty good to me. what viruses are you concerned about?
90% effectiveness against E.coli, coliform and cholera is too big of risk. Since it doesn't really have any effectiveness against viruses, it would be pretty crazy. There have been quite a few documented cases in the US of ground water contamination with viruses and some serious ones, Hepititus A and Giardia will not kill you if you're healthy, but you will be seriously sick up to 6 months, excluding you from working. If one of your chickens or other animals (wild or domesticated) where to poop somewhere along the process, you could easily introduce giardia.
From the CDC Website about well water in the US:
The Top 5 Causes of Waterborne Outbreaks in Private Groundwater Wells
1. Hepatitis A (CDC, CDC-Water)
2. Giardia intestinalis (CDC, CDC-Water)
3. Shigella spp. (CDC, CDC-Water)
4. E. coli 0157:H7 (CDC, CDC-Water, EPAExternal Web Site Icon)
Tied for 5th:
Campylobacter jejuni (CDC, CDC-Water) and
Salmonella serotype Typhimurium (CDC, CDC-Water)
Hello all I have been trying to come up with a way to purify water for drinking that would be done in a permaculture way. So I am looking for solutions to make water potable, not just grey water. Part of the criteria I have for this is that I wouldn't need to purchase replacement parts (filters or chemicals) and ideally not require electrical power. With peak oil the ability to get things like filters and bulbs etc are shaky at best. Something with 10-50 gallons a day production capacity would be ideal for the individual or family for consumption, cooking, bathing, etc.
I have explored a few options
-Biosand or Slow Sand Filters seem the closets option, but they do not really take care of most Viruses and are only 90% effective with bacteria
-Solar water distillers are great, but have a really low flow rate: 5 gallon production needs about 200 square feet surface area in the cool season
-Wells can become contaminated, can run dry, are costly and most often require power.
-Rain catchments often mean dealing with unwanted heavy metals from roofing materials
-UV treatment is a very effective way, but what happens with the power goes out or when the bulb breaks
-Ceramic filters are highly effective (such as Berkey water filters) but I don't like the idea of relying on needing to order filter after filter, what if one day when oil runs out, no more filters from China
-Chemical treatments - highly effective but bring in questions of what those chemicals do to your body and you have to buy them
How are people tackling the potable water issue from a permaculture lens?
I have your Perennial Vegetable book and both books of the Edible Forest Gardens (up next after the book I'm reading now). I wanted to ask about forest garden planning.
Could you talk about your approach to placement of plants, tree, etc when starting a food forest. Geoff Lawton talks about placing fruit trees, nitrogen fixer trees, and other types of trees intermixed, then all your understory things. He also mentions overplanting because they don’t all make it and obviously you want plants next to each other than benefit each other. How do you decide what goes where, the spacing, how many, and density of plantings? What guides your decision when making small gaps in the canopy to allow light to grow understory crops?
Are there any tools (software or web based) to help with mapping, forest gardening planning etc that you'd recommend?
So I understand a good deal about cover crops, the different species, the various benefits, etc. But it is a very intellectual / theoretical understanding; Every thing I have read is from a more traditional gardening approach (till, seed, weed, harvest, rinse and repeat). All the guides I find online are about either large scale mono cropping (using seed drills) or people who cover crop, till, plant, cover crop till, plant. But I am having trouble with some of the applications and feel like I must be missing some really basic things as things don't seem to line up when I think them through. If I till each time I want to put a new cover crop down, you loose a ton of nitrogen in the process and disrupt the soil structure. But how the heck do you cover crop and do no-till?
Charlotte, NC USA
42" annual rainfall (mostly in winter, fall and spring)
hot humid summer (low 70's high 90's)
Cool winters (low 20's high 50's)
Red clay soil
So here are a situation that I find myself in, could someone help me out with the details and process?
So assuming I am starting out at a brand new 4 acre site that has sat unattended for a while, it is cleared land, meddow-lawn-ish and I need to build the organic matter and get things kicking. The goal is to have 1/2 acre as zone 1 garden, and then most of the remaining acreage be put into forest gardens.
Would I, just for the first round, till the whole thing and immediately seed cover crops? I would wait for them to do their thing, chop it and drop it, right? Then what? How do I get the next round of cover crops going without tilling? Over-seeding most likely have a really low germination rate or fail completely because of poor soil contact and depending on the time of year, if in the summer, seeds would dry out within 6 hours without constant watering. So how do I continually bring in the next round of cover crops, create the mulch and then grow the next one?
Once that is figured out, am I understanding it correctly that when I go to build my food forest, I just dig holes where I want the trees, maybe do some broad forking around it before I start dropping in the understory stuff? I can use some techniques huglekulture too when I am deploying this.
Another thing I just don't get. Preventing compaction in no till? I understand that the root structure opens stuff up and you can use things like radishes etc to open thing up even more, but it still seems like things will get very compacted. If you have a large space, how do you prevent compaction and hard panning without fancy seed drills etc?
Just thought of something. In rain barrels for every foot of elevation you have, you get 0.4 psi. I wonder if this would be a constant that might help calculate the height of the tower and the resulting pressure in terms of psi.
Yes I would use this in a situation where I could get the height of the water to be above where I need it. I wouldn't plan to pump it up there. I know the big industrial sized ones are very tall, one in Canada is 351 feet tall. But what about small scale use? Would 20 feet work or 10? I wish I could figure out an equation to punch in the height and see the output of PSI from the valve.
I was watching a lecture of Bill Mollison and he went off on a very interesting tangent about Trompes. I have never heard of such a thing, at first it seemed a little bit like a perpetual motion machine, too good to be true. But after looking around a little bit, it seems there might be some possibility that this is a viable thing. Anyone heard of this, can speak to the viability of it as an alternative energy source? Anyone know how tall it needs to be to create a decent amount of pressure?
A trompe is basically an elevated funnel connected to a long pipe that water is poured through, the funnel has air ports that pull air into the water. The air and water flows down the pipe and into a tank with the input port and exit port at the bottom on opposite sides. The water fills the tank because the water is flowing in faster than it can exit (the exit port connects to a pipe that rises above the top of the tank). As the water fills the chamber, the air rises to the top of the tank and displaces the water down. As this happens the air pocket builds in pressure. At the top of the tank a air valve can be open and closed to gain access to the pressurized air. The pressurized air then can be used to drive air powered tools, spin a turbine for electricity and when released, the preasure difference cools the air as a sustainable Air Conditioning function.
I was looking around and found that of the research that has been done when it comes to rain barrels and other catchments that the water coming off the roof is dangerous. Many roofs are asphalt which are loaded with tar, zinc, and anti fungal agents. For metal roofs, the galvanized kind are prone to release of the heavy metal zinc. These can be mitigated by the first flush diverts, but they are still present. I am sure to that these will release most of the particles in the first year or so, but still, it is kinda scary.
Are there any roof types that allow for water capture and don't leach dangerous carcinogens?
I am trying to do some research on which scythe to buy and which snath (handle) to buy. I think I have narrowed it down to an Austrian blade and a snath that handles are adjustable, but that's as far I have got.
Does anyone have suggestions for which type and company I should consider purchasing for tall grasses, mainly non woody stems?
This is the kick off meeting for the Charlotte Permaculturalists discussion group. We welcome people who have never heard of permaculture and those who are well versed in the topic. Gardeners will find many of these topics very useful as it brings a new perspective on gardening and deepens your understanding. Environmentalist will appreciate the practical solutions to many of our biggest environmental problems. Permaculture is a design system that allows humans to coexist with nature in a sustainable nature.
Permaculture is a very broad approach and I have found that one of the best way's to learn to read some and then discuss. So that's what this group is all about. Each time we meet, we will have a short and easy to read article posted before each talk. Take a few minutes to read over it and then come ready to discuss. It's that simple and its free!
How To Sign Up:
We ask that you sign up for free and get the first reading at our meetup group here: http://www.meetup.com/Charlotte-Gardeners-and-Permacultureist/
Feb 25th at 6pm at the Charlotte Northlake REI community Room