I have been meaning to post on this topic but did not get the pictures taken so procrastinated. I used the ones in the second post. Looks like the ones in the first post could be make from fruit separator trays cut in strips and then pairs and then folded and stapled into clamshells.
On to my success story. I used them to air layer the side shoots on my indeterminant tomatoes. As mentioned they need to be tied or taped to the tomato cage to keep them vertical. After a week they had a good foot ball and could be cut off and transplanted. because the side shoot was already in bloom it went right into fruit production. by end of season produced as much as the mother plant
Hans Quistorff wrote:Interesting! here with wet mild winters it never seems to reproduce from seed. It is a popular ornamental and propagated by division. I had to move the one on my farm and it took digging a 3 foot circle 3 feet down to get it out. The seed plume is attractive in fall and early winter but becomes thread bare by spring. Maybe the torrential rains that blow up here from Hawaii will shift further south with climate change and solve your problem.
Is your plant definitely female? The male plants here on Australia have equally impressive blooms. The propagators, to my reading, have managed to hybridise a sterile variety. You might be on a money-spinner for large potted grasses as features. Not surprised about the size of the hole. How are you using your plant on your farm? As a feature of windbreak?
Apparently the females are illegal in Washington state but the males are propagated by division and sold freely for decorative purposes. I just put it beside the driveway to make a transition statement between zone two and zone one. My Google search revealed it is an invasive problem in California and has escaped in Oregon so if one chooses to use it in their landscape, do not import seeds or wild plants.
Interesting! here with wet mild winters it never seems to reproduce from seed. It is a popular ornamental and propagated by division. I had to move the one on my farm and it took digging a 3 foot circle 3 feet down to get it out. The seed plume is attractive in fall and early winter but becomes thread bare by spring. Maybe the torrential rains that blow up here from Hawaii will shift further south with climate change and solve your problem.
Definitely wise to separate theme. Also there is a lot of soil on the leaves which could be contaminated. soil may not be uniform in consistency and nutrition. At this stage watering with some compost or worm tea might boost the plants immune system. Covering the surface of the soil with crushed charcoal has been effective for me in keeping the soil damp while protecting the plants from soil splash.
I'm planning on making some new beds that I will let go a bit wild. Just let things flower and self-seed. I still plan on getting a harvest from them but I want to just let them do their thing and see how it changes from year to year. Just a fun experiment and there are some plants that just don't play nice in a vegetable garden but would do great in this setup.
So Daron, basically that's what I've done with my volunteer arugula (that I don't know what variety it is) and now after 3 years of letting it go wild it survived the winter snows and has gone amuck and taken over my whole garden area! So now I have the joy of pulling out plants abundant as weeds only they are 4 ft tall flowering and delicious. There's just too much of it! Help!! How do I bring this wild abundance under control?
Use a scythe or sickle to cut it before the seeds develop. The difference between wild and permaculture is culture indicates controlled perennial production.
Nan Narz wrote:May i request fir a summarized version please .
i.e.. ratio of cultured lactid acid to milk, waiting days, etc
You are working with live organisms in variable environments therefor exact formulas are not practical. The general rules are: to cold reproduction will be slow; to hot will kill; body temperature rapid growth. Too little starter may be slow to get started or allow other organisms to dominate; to much starter may inhibit reproduction by the acid content. Looking at what you have make an estimate and apply the permaculture principle of recording and observing the results.
I am at 47.25 North so the 7 foot tall glass on south and west sides penetrates all the way to the far side of the 18 foot square structure. Morning sun is scarce but winter evenings tend to be clear. so I left the east side insulated. I would like to reverse the shed roof to slope north and dig the current south slope of the floor down and insulate the roof. I find supplementing light is less expensive than electric heat. During the summer only 4 feet on the south side gets a lot of light but the setting sun still comes all the way in. The summer usage is for tomatoes and basil. The north side of the greenhouse is devoted to New Zealand spinach which produces the largest leaves with about 2 hours of direct light.
I fill the greenhouse with barrel planters in the winter and then move them out to appropriate microclimates this time of year.
You probably have the same pattern cloudy nights are no problem but clear nights the radiant cooling can be extreme. So I should use some other insulation on the north and east and use my rolls of carpet to cover the glass on clear nights.
If I am understanding correctly that these are your own starts and a small size an old refrigerator or chest freezer would prevent temperature fluctuation and light stimulating the awakening of the buds.
Gilbert Fritz wrote:I finally got the IBC tank into place in the greenhouse. Before I fill it up and figure out how to connect the pump and radiator, I'm trying to figure out how to keep algae from growing in the tanks. Any thoughts?
First thing is to keep the water in the dark. I the water going to be in a closed loop and not open like before?
personal experience. I have found that liquid pectin (Certo brand) with grape juice to be very, very effective
Back in the 1950's I was calling on an elderly man taking care of his elderly mother who told me his mother had insisted on this remedy. Since I have come to understand what is the possible mechanism of action. Pectin is a soluble fiber meaning fluids dissolve into it. This holds irritating compounds, expelled by the liver into the bile, until they are expelled instead of being reabsorbed back into the blood stream. Another factor that I learned more recently is that These soluble fibers can be digested by bacteria in the colon releasing butyrate and other compounds that are anti inflammatory.
Jordan Holland wrote:From what I understand, osteoarthritis is the body's way of shoring up and protecting a joint that is having problems. Modern medical techniques tend to treat inflammation as a disease that should be eradicated. But I understand inflammation to be healing. Force stopping inflammation with things like NSAIDs or corticosteroids would also logically force stop the healing. If there is arthritis, there must be some stress factor causing it. Misaligned skeleton, physical trauma, emotional stress, lack of certain nutrients, excess of certain chemicals, something. I heard one doctor say, "If your doctor tells you it's from old age or 'wear and tear,' fire your doctor!" If the inflammation is stopped without eliminating what caused it, the problems will likely persist. I think the food as medicine approach is the right track. Food provides building blocks to regenerate. The kicker is what caused the problem in the first place?
My specialty is finding the cause. Generally antalgic posture, that is holding the body in an awkward position trying to avoid pain but causing pain where too much stress is placed as a consequence.
The knees have to straighten at an awkward angle on the stairs if the spine does not flex to keep the center of gravity in the right place. I am not allowed to use the word by state law because it is reserved for doctors diagnosis but what they are saying is that the joint [arthrose] has an itus or osis which is a reaction to an irritation. Some foods are pro inflammatory making the repair process to slow and others are anti inflammatory regulating the repair process properly. Note in my signature line I also help people with magnet therapy. Magnets speed up electrons changing how water reacts in the tissue. The negative side being anti inflammatory and the positive side pro inflammatory thus can be employed to assist in the repair process.
I constantly have to move new trees out of my plum groves. there was a massive green gauge plum which is a prolific and strong grower with very sweet fruit still looks green when ripe but is strongly cling stone. it has cross pollinated with a yellow plum which is more free stone so I am getting crosses that have the best combination. The oldest grove of Italian prune plumes is the least hardy the trees succumbing to disease after about three years but it keeps propagating from the roots.
Because I believe we were put here to take care of it; what it says to me is I will take care of this eventually but you are welcome to help make it a garden or park with the hands and legs you were given to carry things around and chop them up.
It appears that they have drains on the back half way up the sides which is good. For ease of watering put a flexible drain pipe in the bottom coming up to the surface on one end, Fill around the pipe with gravel and then sand up to the drain holes then planting soil. That reservoir of water in the pipe, gravel and sand will last a week or more. For the shady North side I recommend New Zealand Spinach. It is a vine with leaves that look like the spade on playing cards. The leaves get larger and more edible in the shade. It produces an abundance of seed all along the vine at each leaf node so it can be kept going after the winter freeze. Flowering bulbs can be interplanted in the fall to come up first in the spring. I have bluebells that have come up and multiplied for 10 years with only 2 hours of sunlight one at sunrise and one at sunset..
I am on a very old farm. Most of the fruit trees were planted in the sandy upland slope but a plum grove was planted in the clay wetland below. It has done very well but invaded by popular trees which I have harvested for wood. the popular roots continue to invade the field beyond but get mowed a along with the alfalfa that came up from the horse droppings. I cut that section when the alfalfa has set seed but not released it yet and spread it to the less permeable parts of the field. Moles are a big help making drainage tunnels. There is a natural swale where the water collects on the surface then fallows the mole tunnels out into the hard areas.
These are the figures I found for Yacon. 10 pounds per plant in our growing conditions according to supplier, Calorie calculators listed 54 calories for 100 grams and 90 calories for 1 ounce fresh root. It can be dried, juiced and reduced to syrup. I plan to eat it fresh over the winter liftin one plant each month so I went with the last figure for calculation. So that gives me 954 calories per pound times 40 pounds = 3616 per year for 4 plants. The 2 1 pound tubers that I ate over the last 2 weeks averaged about 2 ounces per serving eaten like a sliced apple. use period would be about 4 months so divided by 3 for the year. I hope that helps.
planting considerations: Can be started by planting corm in one gallon container and transplanted after last frost to full sun to 3 to 4 square foot area of deeply turned well drained soil. Needs a lot of water during heat of summer so possibly a plant for a grey water situation,
Separate point The reason the gallon of milk lasts me a month is because I turn it into yogurt as soon as I get home. When I was able to pick it up fresh from the cow before it was cooled it was even better. I still have a heated water bed so putting a jar in each corner keeps it just the right temperature to culture over night. The cream that cultures on the top of the jar is the best you will ever taste..
You are in a good place according to Google search. food co-ops near you some have a storefront, some have pickup sites, some make deliveries. I really like working with mine, sharing berries I have in surplus and buying things that are too difficult for me to produce in my 80's. The digital age makes it so much easier. I don't have to worry about picking too much because customers order over the weekend for distribution mid week.
When I pick up my gallon of raw milk once a month I can look through the window beside the refrigerator and see the cow being milked. The meat chickens are mowing and fertilizing the lawn. The freezers for the grass fed beef and pork are at the back of the hay barn in a separate section serve as tables for sorting and bagging the food for distribution. Depending on the arrangement of the co-op you may be able to volunteer to help with distribution and get to know the producers.
Mason bees are effective early pollinators and easy to introduce to greenhouse from cold storage at the right time for pollination. Leaf cutter bees can be introduced when temperatures are high during the day. I have a good population of mason bees which I share surplus with Crown Bees and order the leaf cutters.
Not a saw hoarse but a saw buck: Bolt 3 junk poles together so that 2 make an X shorter on the top than the legs and the 3rd that does not stick out the top and shorter for the third leg when the X is opened, With that you can put a tripod on each end of the log.
Buy your dog some food.
I 0d out the things I probably won't grow and increased the % of the things I do grow to a reasonable maximum number of plants and reduced the onions to 0.1% still too many plants but I am using top multiplier onions as green onions so I probably would have to eat half a pound per day to make that percentage but I harvest them daily though less than 1/4 pound.
With the selections I made it calculated a possible 90%. If I get the numbers for grain flax, millet, lentils, buckwheat that I use regularly and can grow it should be possible.
`I will be raising wheat and converting that into chickens and ducks That will be a whole other calculation.
I will be 81 this growing season and I have social security and income from my therapy services so I will not push myself to meet the goals but I will try to keep track of some things and see if I can add to the knowledge base.
Nicole Alderman wrote:Anyone have any tips for where to find clay affordably? Would it be at the local garden/hardware store? My soil has nearly no clay in it (it's "gravely loam")
Try cat litter. When we sift it out there are balls just the right size made with liquid nitrogen fertilizer. I add them to my compost bin for trees. Any way it is probably the easiest source of clay that can be mixed easily with compost. If you do not have your own I am sure there is a neighbor that would be glad to give you some to upcycle. Possible disease vector so not appropriate for vegetable seed.
Depends on your cover crop goal. As you mentioned adding nitrogen rich organic matter is usually with terminating and incorporating. But your goal of producing an overwintering crop is very worthy. Having roots feed the soil with exudates over the winter may be all your soil needs. In my case winter wheat grows all winter and produces chicken feed in early summer. The straw provide mulch and the roots can be left in the ground when transplanting squash and pumpkins. Winter hardy kale feeds me all winter and then a few of the strongest are left to produce seed for the next year. Good to reach out for others observations. Add your observations, make a plan, implement it then adjust the plan based on the results. Share the results on the forum.
The middle rail (why does this thing even exist??) needed to be cut to allow the insertion of our new window framing.
To nail the middle of the vertical shiplap siding. In my fathers day they avoided it by putting the shiplap on at a 45 degree angle which braced the structure at the same time. He did that building concrete forms for our infamous Purdy bridge.
Do you have a plan? Comfrey is a perennial root not something to be planted casually or with the intention of moving it later. Every little rootlet left in the ground will regrow. It does not belong in the cover crop forum for that reason. It is highly valuable as a chop and drop companion plant if that is your intention. It can act as a ground cover and root barrier if that is your intention.
Steve Thorn wrote:Yeah I agree that ripening time seems to be a big factor for some of the disease issues.
I also wonder if the apple is generally more disease prone because of the "over breeding" that has been done with it, whereas the pear may have more "wild and tough" genetics still.
More likely by over selection for sweetness and then grafting large numbers of genetically identical trees. Asian pears are an example of this in comparison to traditional varieties which historically were planted as pollinating guilds instead of production monocrops.
Hans Quistorff wrote:For dehydrating Seckel was my family preference. So my sister and her husband planted seedlings from our grandfathers homestead on this farm. Only one came true. It tends to produce only every second or third year. The other trees are three times larger and produce massive amounts of fruit. The fruit is very biter with an alum taste and very slow to ripen after falling or being picked. Experimentation proved that pickled or dried the alum flavor is nullified though it has less of the cinnamon flavor of the Seckel.
My suggestion is if you find productive seedling trees with the bitter flavor [which is a common characteristic] They may be useful when processed even if they seem unusable when fresh.
Might be good for making perry.
Actually we use them when making cider because they tend to make the cider clarify settling out the solids more rapidly and giving more complexity to the flavor. I checked perry is the proper term for fermented pear juice. These are not quite sweet enough and too bitter to use alone. Other pears that may be undesirable fresh may be good for making perry if they have the sugar content as other threads on this forum have mentioned.
An interesting contrast on my land is that apples which have been on the farm for over100 years have many more diseases and are plagued by fruit maggots. Whereas pears that were introduced 25 and 10 years ago do not have either problem. I suspect that the maggot difference may be due to the time that the fruit ripens because the late ripening apple tree has few maggots. On the other hand it is more susceptible to anthrax scabs than the early ripening Gravenstien. What have others observed with different varieties?
For dehydrating Seckel was my family preference. So my sister and her husband planted seedlings from our grandfathers homestead on this farm. Only one came true. It tends to produce only every second or third year. The other trees are three times larger and produce massive amounts of fruit. The fruit is very biter with an alum taste and very slow to ripen after falling or being picked. Experimentation proved that pickled or dried the alum flavor is nullified though it has less of the cinnamon flavor of the Seckel.
My suggestion is if you find productive seedling trees with the bitter flavor [which is a common characteristic] They may be useful when processed even if they seem unusable when fresh.