Any spot that you put down a "woody" or straw mulch, 2+ times a year, is an excellent candidate for growing Garden Giants and Shaggy Manes... Repasturize the oyster SMS and broadcast over the above area(s).
Use genuine leaf mould as your soiless seed start. For added insurance; use some willow water in the first watering or two. Water starts from the bottom, using a tray...
Though I have yet to try it; I've read that a thin layer of course sand on top of seed starts can/does help. Hope to remember to try it this year.
This is my dream/goal, once I have the good fortune to be an unbridled steward of a piece of land:
1. All kitchen bits with be grubified: bsfl, housefly grubs, etc.
2. Leaf litter will be separately composted for the production of leafmold: nature's soiless seed starter
3. All non-used woody bits will be fungified (there can be multiple stages to this if/when farming mushrooms).
4. Manure is either naturally broadcasted or locally concentrated (chicken roost, camelids, human, etc). Concentrated manures will be handled depending on setup. Regardless; humanure would be composted... On aside; it cracks me up how humans will work knee & elbow deep in all manor of manure but their own, lmao. Between children and being a caregiver, I have no fear of my own species manure and certainly not my very own.
Each one of these creates a concentration of developed soil matrix, as a compost bin would. So yes, there would be some wheelbarrowing. But moving some awesomeness around 2~3 times a year is a workout that is much looked forward to.
As mentioned; backfilling with stone and coarse sand works well. The higher the clay content of the neighboring soil, the more backfill below the bottom of the post will be needed. As depends on amount of rain and typical relative humidity of the region.
One possible means by which to aquire the beneficial fungus, is to locate a thriving speciment of the heath family out in the unadulterated wild; such as wild cranberry, blueberry, huckleberry, azalea, rhododendron, etc... dig down a little bit, just inside of the plant's dripline, to see if any of the fungus can be found. It will be creamy-white to khaki in color and growing from the plant roots. It is extemely delicate...
I have yet to look into a source for the powdered material for inoculation. Something I ought to do. Especially when talking of more than just a plant or half dozen to be inoculated.
More information than you'll probably ever want, lol:
Yes; it is... I just added "medicinal", for those that did not know it
Also. Be sure to inoculate the blueberry roots with ericoid mycorrhizae. This will be o e of the most beneficial thi gs you can do for any plants in the heath family.
Given your location, I will assume a highbush variety(ies)... That being the case; intersow some medicinal red clover with the subterranean clover. It should handle the acidic soil okay, by all evidence here where I live.
FYI: eating snow will dehydrate you (and animals). It requires massive calories to turn snow to liquid and then bring it up to body temperature for assimilation. Far more than you get from it.
Find a compatible subterranean clover for your area. They handle acidic soil and heavy shade the best of clovers. They are an aggressively reseeding annual, which makes them excellent for aerating and mulching the soil. They are rather drought tolerant as well.
I use straw... Chicken manure, kitchen waste and straw. No need to turn the pile. Not only does the straw provide the needed carbon, but it also keeps the compost aerated.
About a decade ago, my Dad built a "cord wood fence". It was framed up with 2x4s and a real roof. It ran East/West, along the North side of the yard. All summer long, the South-bound winds blasted into it. The wood dried fast and the yard remained shelted from the wind. Winter winds came out of the South; so using the wood then released any baffling effect.
I have ordered a batch of 25 chicks, at two different times, both received at the beginning of November. One group went outside within an hour, that year. The next group went out within a week, that year (due to some delays in setting up the outside brooder area. Our winters are mild in temperature, but nasty in the way of rain and wind... After two weeks, they had a door to come and go as they pleased, into the larger hen yard.
That depends in county. Different laws pertaining to housing. Some involve kitchens. Some involve individual dewellings. I need to study up on this as well (here in Oregon)...
Some of the most fertile land can be found in the lowlands of the Umpqua and Rogue Rivers. Both are fed initially from the volcanic rich Cascades and stretch all the way to the ocean. Unfortunately; much of the Rogue is uninhabitable do to geology.
Think outside the box. Connecting two dwellings via a large greenhouse (kitchen on either side) might bypass some hurdles?
Alfalfa will be a no-go in acidic soil... However Subterranean clover and buckwheat are excellent annuals that will build your soil and readily seed if allowed.
Something that can be started right away, until you get some bug farms setup: put down seven sheets of outdoor grade plywood (or the like). Every day, move one to a new neighboring position, they call the birds to their lil treat...
This can be done in an area you are wanting to suppress unwanted growth and do light surface tilling
Just be careful when shopping. Ironically; I've discovered many vegan clothing uses man-made synthetics, which I would consider WAY worse than using sustainably raised animal products.
Generally speaking; a heated coop is not a good idea They will be less likely to forage as long as they would otherwise. They will not be as adapted, causing potential death of the whole flock, should your heating source fail.
Providing them a roost(s) up off the ground a few feet within a coop that shelters from wind and rain, but with good ventilation, will make for happy chickens. Be sure to include means to let in the early first rays of morning sun, as this will encourage them to get up and out and start their day of foraging.
Using the "deep litter method" is both a convenient and excellent way to facilitate a small boost in buffered temperature, with hardly any input from yourself. As the days grow shorter and colder, they will roost longer and leave more manure beneath their perch. An occasional top dressing with straw, sawdust/chips or the like, beneath their roost(s), will provide for some excellent Spring dressing in the garden, orchard or as a compost amendment.
Ben Stallings wrote:..... if your plan is to make an ecosystem that grows for years without disturbance, then annuals (at least growing from seed) will not fit into that plan... or if they do fit, it will be very close to the house.....
I would disagree... livestock and wild fauna do an excellent job in the facilitating of annual's reseeding, in a pasture/woodland setting
Edited to add: finished reading thread and realized my point was already made.
Good question. That particular genus causes stomach/digestive issues. But this particular species has very low levels... Pick the mushrooms young, for eating, when still in their "button" form (before the caps open up)... Just don't make them the main course of your meal three times a day for three days
Stropharia rugosa annulata is an excellent mulch fungus It even thrives from being disturbed! Handles partial shade to full sun and is edible in moderation (mushrooms should always be cooked).
Speaking of which... Does anyone know where to get tinfoil within the US? I "think" I'd like to get some in lue of usi g aluminum foil. Though; I've got some research do to first
You making a hat?
Nah. I prefer wool for that
Just want to move away from combining aluminum with food related things.
Speaking of which... Does anyone know where to get tinfoil within the US? I "think" I'd like to get some in lue of usi g aluminum foil. Though; I've got some research do to first
do to geology.
