There is a major difference in how the wood is loaded in a RMH vs other wood stoves. With a RMH the wood is external to the combustion chamber and exposed to the heat of the stove. This allows the wood to dry prior to being burned. With other wood stoves the 'charge' of wood is internal to the stove and all of the moisture must be cooked off in order to burn. The phase change from water to steam requires gobs of energy.
An older lady told me about 6 or 7 years ago not to put out my tomatoes until the blackberries bloom. The blackberries have been correct for the past 6-7 years. Last year they got it down to the day...they bloom the day after the last frost. I’m in SW Virginia.
You could put wheels on one end. Depending upon the tractor you may be able to pick up the non-wheeled end when moving.
I do something similar with pallets and let the wood dry where it fell or where I unload it from my pick-up.
I have a masonry stove so need to split my wood more than a convential wood stove. I get used feed sacks from folks who farm that way. After splitting the wood it goes straight in a feed sack which then get stacked. As they breath the wood still drys well. When I need wood, just grab a feed sack. It's removed some on the wood handling. I was thinking of using hardy kiwi vines to tie bundles before I 'developed' the feed sack method.
Well done on the wood shed. My civil engineering background agrees that some cross bracing on the walls would be a smart investiment. There are bound to be some 'interesting' forces towing this across uneven ground.
Jean pain plus? What if you ran an extra hose next to the water heating hose? This extra hose would have holes drilled in it so that you could add air and or water to the compost pile. As you can't turn a Jean Pain pile (easily) this would appear to let you simulate turning.
I don't have access to much composting material currently so figured I'd 'put this out there' for others who may. Cheers...Paul
Here are the clean up instructions for a broken CFL. The first direction is to open the house up and air out ....any small energy savings are out the window.
Have people and pets leave the room.
Air out the room for 5-10 minutes by opening a window or door to the outdoor environment.
Shut off the central forced air heating/air-conditioning system, if you have one.
Collect materials needed to clean up broken bulb:
stiff paper or cardboard;
damp paper towels or disposable wet wipes (for hard surfaces); and
a glass jar with a metal lid or a sealable plastic bag.
DO NOT VACUUM. Vacuuming is not recommended unless broken glass remains after all other cleanup steps have been taken. Vacuuming could spread mercury-containing powder or mercury vapor.
Be thorough in collecting broken glass and visible powder. Scoop up glass fragments and powder using stiff paper or cardboard. Use sticky tape, such as duct tape, to pick up any remaining small glass fragments and powder. Place the used tape in the glass jar or plastic bag. See the detailed cleanup instructions for more information, and for differences in cleaning up hard surfaces versus carpeting or rugs.
Place cleanup materials in a sealable container.
Promptly place all bulb debris and cleanup materials, including vacuum cleaner bags, outdoors in a trash container or protected area until materials can be disposed of. Avoid leaving any bulb fragments or cleanup materials indoors.
Next, check with your local government about disposal requirements in your area, because some localities require fluorescent bulbs (broken or unbroken) be taken to a local recycling center. If there is no such requirement in your area, you can dispose of the materials with your household trash.
If practical, continue to air out the room where the bulb was broken and leave the heating/air conditioning system shut off for several hours.
Science and Math are our language for ATTEMPTING to describe reality. This language is not fully developed. I’m an engineer by schooling and once I understood this fact it helped me considerably. RMH work – now can we figure out how to make the math describe this reality.
Yes, if the steam is condensing inside of the house then that heat would be realized inside of the house.
Just listened to this podcast and happen to be a civil engineer. When building any structure the first thing you want to know is the strength of the soil where said structure will reside. Maybe Sepp was digging around at the bottom of that property to assess the soils capacity to support the dam? One of the first steps in designing is getting the soils drill rig on site to see what you are working with...
I liked the conversation about installing a crown on the dam and not planting trees on the structure.
I've seen 'discussion' about the efficiency of the RMH. The moisture content of the wood may make the math work better for the number crunchers out there.
With all other wood burning stoves (for house heating) you insert the wood and then burn the stove. If the wood has 10% moisture and you put 10 pounds of wood in the stove you have actually placed 9 pounds of wood and 1 pound of water. It takes a considerable volume of energy to boil water and that energy is taken out the chimney in the form of steam. This is why it is so important to have dry wood. It takes almost 1000 btu’s to boil 1 pound of water plus the energy to get it to the boiling point. That is the amount of energy in ¼ to ½ pound of wood. Our 10 pounds of wood is now down to 8.5 pounds of heat producing wood. I'd guess that boiling off the water also decreases the efficency of the burn.
With a RMH the wood feeds into the stove. As the wood feeds towards the stove it has a chance to dry out before going into the combustion chamber. If the wood completely dried out then the preverbal 10 lbs. of wood would actually be 10 lbs of heat producing wood and would give RHM a 15% advantage in this theoretical comparison.
I’ve seen a few threads where people are trying to get their heads around the efficiency differences between RMH and other wood stoves. I haven’t seen this topic discussed.
Are you aware of a list of profitable waste streams?
Coffee grinds can be used to grow oyster mushrooms, the compost can then be feed to worms providing more worms and castings.
I can get a pick up truck of saw dust for $20. I can think of many uses for the sawdust. Biochar, more mushrooms, compost.
Kitchen scrapes. Methane digester, compost, pig fodder....
Your chat on the Permaculture podcast rekindled some thoughts I have in this area.
A good list of common wastes and uses could provide people with a nice income source anywhere.
I wouldn't mind paying for podcasts. It would be nice to get a short description of the ‘pay for podcast’ content. Then complainers would have less basis to complain if they didn't like the 'paid for' content.
Thank you for all of the free information - I have found it very useful. Having paid nothing the value received is infinite - regardless of dividing by zero in the economic analysis. Cheers.
I've used a window screen over the yellow jacket nest and then the boiling water mentioned earlier with successes – after dark of course. I've also heard of using a shop vac next to the hole - turn it on and suck them up (your power source could be deemed as toxic). I had a co-worker who would use ammonia and bleach down the nest. He’d use the window screen and then get away from the gasses and listen to the ground buzz. I’d classify this is less worse than most chemicals or gasoline that many folks use.
Hope these help and that those twin boys don't get stung.
Rocket mass heater cooling (oxymoron?). An evaporative coiling coil at the 'mouth' of the rocket stove would chaperon the humid air out of the house (fan driven) and the thermal mass would retain the coolness in the house. A concept for humid environment cooling - Virginia for me.
I understand there is a workshop pending and thought that this may be a good place to vet another concept. A 55 gallon drum could we switched to a plastic one to prevent rusting of the metal one.
The fan would only run at night while the house air is warm and the outside air is cooler. The warm air has more cooling potential. The make-up air (outside air) is cooler so it to would help cool the house. As the evaporative cooling cool is at the dew point by definition the thermal mass should stay above the dew point - hence no sweating.
If the stove were feed directly with outside air then the fan could run all/any time.
Try using the rocket stove as an evaporate cooling device. Here's my thought: Set up an evaporative cooling coil at the intake of the rocket stove such that the water cooled air is blow into the rocket stove. The stove's thermal mass will adsorb the coolness and the humid air will go out of the stoves exhaust. This would require a fan to power the air flow thru the coil and stove. The humidity goes outside and the cool stays inside. The cooling coil could be as simple as a wet towel over the intake with one end of the towel in a water reservoir. Do this process at night while the outside air is cooler so that the 'make-up' air that is entering the house is cool. The warm house air would do the evaporative cooling work. Then in the morning turn off the fan and close up the house. I use a fan at night and close up the house during the day with great results we call it mountain AC in southwest VA.
Another cooling option is to use a sprinkler on your roof. Perform the mountain AC at night - then keep your roof moist during the day so it doesn't get as hot. Wanna keep you house cool - don't let it get hot. If the attic isn't 120-140 then the house doesn't get nearly as hot.
I have wondered about running a soaker hose next to the heat exchanging hose. Cap the end of the soaker hose. It could be used to pump air and or water into the pile. This would appear to be a useful addition to a pile that you can't easily turn. Thoughts?