Greetings Peter McCoy, excited about your book and thank you for sharing your wisdom with us.
I have a couple of questions so I will try and be brief:
(I am unfamiliar with mushroom terminology so please forgive me. )
1). I'm assuming that mycelium follows succession therefore there would be 'pioneering' types as well as 'mid' climatic' and so on. So I was wondering what type of characteristics or common strands one would shoot for in early development of landscapes when threes are sparse (humid climate by the way, mid south USA )
2). It seems that hogs, oaks, truffles,mushrooms, hardwoods in general are symbiotic and are essential to forest ecology, so since I use hogs for my preferred method of gardening( and it fits my context, yes!) I was wondering if perhaps hogs could essentially prep, then harvest mushroom beds that they themselves could inoculate landscapes carrying spores via snouts and hair.
It appears that pigs rooting for the infamous truffles are a benefit for both the truffle and the pig not to mention the trees. Sort of let the pig do the work(mushroom pruners), although this is a much more slow approach I figure harvesting of mushrooms for the family and providing fodder for livestock is a win-win. So, are pigs potentially good growers of mushrooms, and is there a specific window they would need to hit to proliferate the mushrooms.
Really excited to hear your input. Thank you for hard work and generosity.
So here in the midsouth or at least memphis TN we are considered the top end of the subtropics and it's hot and humid with an average rainfall of 54 inches. I always thought we were temperate but I guess we're in that weird gray area. So you think that type might do well here?
Excellent info thank you. So in regards to slaughter, at what weight or week or year or years do you typically butcher? To borrow from the another livestock animal the pig ( totally aware it's a different beast and different marbling, fats, etc) but most old timers here think you have to slaughter most animals young to be "tender " but some of the older animals are much better for curing, charcuterie, or just a better flavor. We all know some of the high production models of big ag has commandeered flavor in order to cut feed and have higher turn around, so with that in mind, when are goats prime for butcher? Thanks. Again really great stuff here.
Greetings, so here in the midsouth everyone says goats need worming treatment and hooves trimmed. I was thinking that if I have plenty of woody browse for these guys that they won't be as acceptable to parasites or worms and if I have a portable shelter with areas to climb on they can maybe sort of need less hoof trimming. Are goats not accustomed to more rockier terrain? I thought that taking the sweetgums that are in there 2-4 growth to let the goats eat what they can reach and then go behind them and pollard them below and keep pulsing them on new growth. Thoughts? Is there certain breeds that are less succetpable to disease or more pest resistant in areas of avg 54 in rainfall?
Hello Pam, my name is Justin Koenig. I live in Somerville. I would love to get in touch with you. Email @ email@example.com I'm slowly building a permaculture business and would love to connect with some local permaculturists. I'm excited to find out about you and your project.
Hey guys, I haven't been on this forum in a while. I'm in Somerville is there still room for another permie? I'm actually trying to develop my permaculture site/farm in here in Somerville. So glad to hear there are others.
So I'm learning more about the nursery biz, and one thing that came up was when selling liners or plants grown out a full season(as I understand it) certain nurserymen ad a slow release fertilizer to keep plants alive. I was wondering if I had rabbits, could their manure serve as an additional assest and become that slow release fertilizer? My thoughts were, more natural and I'm already getting many functions from the rabbit anyway. Thoughts?
I vote for a dairy animal when your land can support it. Here's a little graphic I drew up to explain. (For fun) I know everyone here probably is aware of these features already but I thought of the chicken sketch used in the designer's manual and thought I'd make a cow one. I don't have the means currently to trick this sketch out on the computer so some scrap paper and a scanner at work and walah! The cow is what comfrey is to plants in the multiple functions category, in my humble opinion, but a pig comes in pretty damn close as well. (truth be told, I'm more of pig kind of guy). Please add more to the list that I missed. Hope you can read it.
Okay, Mr. Klaus, here is a barrage of questions, feel free to answer as you wish, and understand I am aware of the void one may lose themselves in if they get caught in every little detail. See photos at end of post.
Genetics: I know breed plays an important role in developing your herd, more importantly the phenotype of the animal, so I am curious as to the role body frame plays when looking for or aspiring to, develop a healthy dairy herd. I'm borrowing ideas from the beef side of things (Johann Zeitsman and Kit Pharo and small frame size cattle[not miniature]) and wonder if it applies to dairy cows for maximizing forage/milk production conversion. I know you mentioned body fat, but some of those older breeds still seem to be very tall and large frame cows, is that something you've looked into or experienced? If one has smaller acreage (5 acres) is it better to use say a Dexter vs a larger breed like Brown Swiss or Guernsey? In other words does a herd of 5 Dexters equal the same as maybe 2 Guernsey's in terms of forage/milk production/profit? Last question concerning body condition, when a cow is fresh, is it normal to see some ribs start to show, or does the older breeds maintain enough body fat assuming forage conditions are optimal? It's hard to know body condition for dairy cows when all I've been around is beef cows. Frame size illustration below.
Milk Stations: Have you any insights on what makes a good milking station like maybe a list of do's and don't's when designing this type of area? Things like; concrete flooring vs deep bedding, location of milking equipment, feed troughs, and the things that make it a place the cows want to come to be milked. I figured this issue was just as important as pasture management. Example of one found online below post.
Calving: Do you try to calve at the same time of year or do you stagger the herd in order to have milk available all year round? My brief experience with beef cows is that not all mamas hit at the same time so when the bull is left in all year, the calves seem to show up all year as well. Unless perhaps you have a very strict culling practice where if mama doesn't make it the first round she's gone. How long do you allow the calve to nurse when the cow is fresh, all the way until she self weans? Then what milk shop shuts down for the season, in other words, is your milk season based solely on the cows natural milk cycle or is it extended?
Well, Mr. Klaus I think I've bombarded you enough, I look forward to your insights. The little jersey bull in the photo below was my first calf and I just wanted to share it with everyone. I think the photo demonstrates how raw milk is not the only healing product of cows, look at the face. Cancer groans when it sees an image like that. Thank you.
I want to ask a follow up question to managing baby beef to justify having a bull, because like you I think ecologically a bull needs to be in the pasture, so are you selling them as pasture beef, or eating them yourself to offset costs?
Mr. Klaus, I just wanted to say thanks for all your hard work and your generousity in sharing your knowledge and experience with me and many others. You have played a big part in helping me start my farm. I now have a milking cow named Pauline ( name was my three year old's contribution) and 17 acres waiting for a steward to nuture it. I look forward to hearing more of what you have to say and hope you and your family recieve many more blessings in the future.
This has probably already been discovered but just in case there is a photo on treeplantation.com of a black locust tree with filled with goats demonstrating its durabilty. I dont know how to link to photo. Just thought it was cool.
That photo is pokeweed and if I'm not mistaken its poisonous if not cooked properly, referring to young shoot and leaves. Berries are poisonous. I was told by many old timers who ate it to survive that they had to boil the leaves 3x changing water each time to remove toxins. One man told me if you scrape off the red outer skin on the young shoots and fry them they taste kinda of like fried okra. I don't know all the details. Just be safe and double or triple check before consuming questionable plants.
Tim, those are cool designs. I am very interested in the side hugel/garage door project and can't wait to see further development. The only concern that creeps up for me is support for the hoop rings in the center. Growies and add a lot of weight. But overall that design is something I just might have to steal, mwhohahaha.
Thank you so much for answering my questions I look forward to reading your articles and book. I love the idea of keeping it simple but at first glance it all seems so complicated but it seems simple principles can eliminate much of the bewilderment. Thanks again.
When grazing cattle and towards the finishing phase, what kind of pasture do you gravitate towards? Do you look for pasture with good mix of grass with seed heads, or in other words do you look for grasses for the cattle to graze the top third( energy ) of plant to pack the pounds? When do you need energy of plant and when do you need lower parts of the plant (which I think is higher in protein)? Also do you open the stock density so the cattle can really choose all the ice cream plants they want to get poundage or is it better to graze the pasture in higher density in order to make the pasture better or ready for the next grazing.
When deciding on which bull to keep, are you basing it solely on your personal characteristics you desire or do you let multiple bulls within the herd and let them basically show you which ones to keep. I know this probably addresses larger herds and not small operations but I was curious. Does nature decide for you and you manage within that realm or is it the producer's call in who stays and who goes. Also I heard Kit Pharo (I think) said we'd be better off if breed selection was based off of 7-8 year cows, is that a feature you look for in your management, keeping heifers from 7-8 year old cows? Thanks.
Yes, I was curious about the curing part. Much of the old timers around here( near Memphis, TN) say you couldn't do it they way they did because it doesn't get as cold or stay cold long enough. So, how does the traditional way work with warmer weather? They also told me to be sure and put enough salt around everything especially the joints. Does that sound about right? I have one more question regarding boars taint, I was under the impression that if you butcher a boar that has been away long enough from sows in heat, that he will not have that problem, but everyone around here says you gotta castrate them but if you don't to be sure to cut the balls first right after the kill. Ask Brandon if cutting the testicles first will or does help to eliminate the taint. Thanks.
I recently bought a boar about a month ago. In my excitement and because I was thrown a curve I hastily brought the boar home and continued to raise it unaware that he had only one testicle.
I just thought it hadn't dropped. Well it seems that indeed he has only one testicle. Do you think he will still breed my two gilts or should I swap him out?
Obviously genetics play a role, but breeds and genetics have also been over emphasized and turned into a market. He has a brother(the pig) that I can swap out(free) but its an hour away. I like my boar and his demeanor, but I don't want emotion to guide me and i want to do what is best to kick start my herd. Any thoughts, or should I play it safe and switch them? Thanks
When building ponds, does Sepp plan for certain types of access for livestock upon completion. I know the ponds we had on our farm growing up were open to cows and fish did not thrive very well or at all. Probably due to management and too much access, but I was wondering how he waters his animals, does he use fencing or certain earthwork structures like rocks, wood, etc. that perhaps guide the animals to access but do not let them cause too much disruption. Does he recommend a certain amount of time before he allows animals to access new ponds?
Thanks for the great advice. It is my intention to be courteous to my neighbor and slowly demonstrate something better than a desert lawn and hope that it ripples through the rest of my street. But for now I am going to cure my soil, grow food, share, and hopefully improve on our community. I thought that maybe a hedge that was slightly low growing yet creates a sufficient barrier might lessen the chances of shading out some of my future fruit trees from my south sun
I live on a 1.8 acre lot next to a guy(nice guy) who manicures his lawn like a golf course. Currently there is nothing separating our lawns aside from the slight distinction of his "perfect" grass budding up next to my weed friendly yard. I have some rough sketches that show what I am dealing with. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, his lawn is on the south side of my property of which I was going to design a slight food forest that was going to favor the sun direction. I want to create a hedge of some sort that will block me from him mostly to keep his fertilized-pesticide practices away from my food but at the same time trying not to cause a problem and he call "the man" on me. Are there any recommendations on how I might deal with both the sun direction, certain hedges that I can manage pretty well that will benefit us both, maybe even inspire him to reconsider his golf course fixation ( he doesn't golf, hahaha) I trying to think of ways to keep leaves and others things from maybe blowing in on his property, though secretly I wish the weeds over there to heal his land.
Well, I think I figured out the type of tree it is by researching all your suggestions, and it appears to be a black gum, Nyssa sylvatica. It does indeed have a single pit, and the leaves seem to match the photos I found online. So thank you to everyone for your help.
I discovered this in my father-in-law's pasture in the tree line, it was pretty large tree with little purple berry-like fruit. Any idea? A coworker suggested it being some relation to a wild plum variety.
I'm new to permaculture too, but maybe we can help one another. I live in Somerville. I was looking for some seeds, namely things like comfrey and pear seeds. Also check out Oleo Acre Farms in Stanton , Tim Ammons knows a bunch of perm-esque things.
So these are growing all over my father-in-law's garden, and he just planted pumpkins, and he is pesticide trigger happy individual and wants to spray everything. Even suggested putting jars over the pumpkin sprouts and spraying round-up around them.(absolutely horrible idea and mindset) I was trying to identify them and see if perhaps they were more beneficial than he supposed. I think they are redrooted pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus), or related to Amaranthaceae family, but I am not sure. If so, I thought I read they were edible greens for raw salads or good cooked but I wanted to have some other opinions so I left some photos as attachments. If anything they seem like they would be a good mulch plant. My goal is to hopefully sway him into the direction of permaculture, especially since he recently bought 100 acres and plans to have some vegetable gardens, cows, chickens, maybe a pig but its hard to break that mentality. Your suggestions or replies would be most welcomed. Thanks.
So its now early July and I plan to have my hugelkultur beds built by the end of July perhaps early August. I live out side of Memphis, TN (Zone 7a) and I was wondering when I should plant and what I should plant. Since it will be August. Should I shoot for winter vegetables, what kind of cover crops, nitro fixers,etc. should I consider. I am aware that I will have to find what works best through observation, however, I was wanting maybe a few suggestions. Thanks.
I was watching a PDC online from here, and someone planted pear trees right next to their house, not only for the fruit, but because it also acted as a source for shade which would help keep the house cooler. I was wondering if this technique could possibly damage the house or its foundation because of the root system. My hope is that the roots aren't a problem and that I can have both a cooler house and the fruit. Any experience, thoughts, recommendations with this theme, "too close"?