Not really answering your questions, since I am in a quite different climate than yours. But don't forget about timing of the harvest. You probably don't want the edibles to be ready to harvest when school is on summer vacation.
The idea is to start a permaculture nursery that specializes in Soviet varieties, selling seedlings and possibly seeds. I see there is enough interest, and since I grew up in the former Soviet Union and have friends and relatives in quite a few of the Newly Independent States (including Central Asia), it could be a great fit.
However, before I even try to explore the export regulations in those States, I need to figure out how to legally import the seeds to US.
My question is, what do I need to do in order to import to the USA seeds of perennials, trees and shrubs from abroad? I am talking about a dozen of varieties and maybe a couple of hundreds seeds each to start, with plans for expanding in the future.
1) Do I have to submit an "Application to Import Plants or Plant Products" to USDA?
2) Should I try to qualify under Small Lots of Seed Program?
3) Form 587 (assuming I need it) calls for a specific "Port of Entry", does it mean I will not be able to receive the seeds by mail?
I planted mine from seed a couple of years ago. Did not need to stratify; all growing strong now.
But it would probably be easier to do it by division - then I would not have to babysit the little plants.
We had several pretty large fires in the area last year. Lots of firefighters, lots of fire retardants used. This year a record crop of morel mushrooms is expected.
My question is: are those morels safe to eat?
I know it might sound weird, but could there be such a thing as myco-weeds?
When we bring "mushroom kits", "mushroom patches" or mycorrhizal fungi (= likely non-native mushrooms) to our gardens, could they possibly escape and outcompete native fungi, similar to what invasive weeds do?
There are products on the market that contain more than a dozen of different species of mycorrhizal fungi, plus even more species of beneficial bacteria... Are they safe for the nearby forest, I wonder?
Oliver, thanks for the wonderful video!
I bought it a while back, and every time viewing it I find something new that I missed (or was not ready for) before. Very inspirational and full of useful advice. Highly recommend.
I guess you don't have kids around if you want to attract coyotes? And do you have bears around? Keep in mind that they can come, too.
Our dog keeps the coyotes away, but is powerless with the rabbit population.
We had pretty good rains recently, so I am not too worried about the non-irrigated part of the property for now!
We are also doing great regarding wildlife. A few bird feeders during the winter and a few birdhouses make wonders to bird population as well as mice, squirrels and chipmunks. Rabbits like vegetables and green manure. Gophers, ground squirrels and deer love the fruit trees. Yellow jacket wasps really enjoy the raspberries. Everyone is happy (but me )
I am glad your almonds and apricots are doing well.
I had a few trees sprouting and doing well in the irrigated area. I hope they are the offsprings of hardy varieties, though. Since all the stones from local and store-bought (and grown in milder climates) fruit go to compost, now I have no idea which ones have sprouted! Oh, well. Let's see if they make it through the winter.
There is one particular plant I am after. It grows naturally in the mountains of Uzbekistan, extremely drought tolerant, thrives in poor soils, somewhat hardy (certainly below -10C) and produces tasty little apples about 2-3cm in diameter.
Does anyone grow those? I am not sure about the proper botanical name.
Sorry for the delay. Roughly, if you can tell us where are you - what is the terrain like?–
Figuring out what your land wants to grow is a challenge - once you know, or at least begin to understand, that's when life begins to get easier and interesting.
I am in a forest right now. North Idaho, pretty close to Canada.
However, I feel it's not "business as usual" this year, because of the drought. I have an acreage with a few thousand trees, mostly Douglas Fir, but also Grand Fir, Alders, a few Aspens... And I saw quite a few of the trees, mostly young ones, die last year. And it is getting worse now. I wonder, how many of the trees will survive. There is no way for me to irrigate all of them; the earthworks that have been done before aimed to solve drainage problem, not watering. Will the drought end this year?
I would not want to live in a desert... But with the wildlife (deer, rabbits, gofers), cold winters, and the drought, all my attempts to introduce new varieties of trees have failed. Only fencing and irrigation work, but I doubt it is doable on an acreage.
I wonder why nothing really wants to grow without irrigation in my place? Young autumn olive, comfrey, oregano - all wilt or do not grow.
We've had very unusual weather this year, and are officially in "moderate drought" conditions right now. Looking ahead, it might be a good idea to plant a few really drought tolerant edibles.
I have one young Manchurian apricot tree that is doing well, but since it was rather expensive I irrigate it. I am not in the best location for apricots, since late freezes are very likely to kill the blooms, but certain years might have some luck. Never heard about anyone growing almonds here, either.
What drought tolerant plants can you recommend for my climate, which is "typical inland Northwestern continental Mediterranean climate, with cold, snowy winters and dry summers with large diurnal temperature swings from hot in the day to very cool at night"? It usually gets to -10F (-20C) during the winter.
We have a variety of herbs like yarrow, dandelions, etc. growing wild, but what about edible shrubs and trees?
I tried several times to start with store-bought mushrooms, and did not have any luck. Sooner or later, all of them got moldy. (I blame not having a sterile environment). And the ones that got moldy later, still grew very slowly from the very start.
As a result, at this point I find buying grain spawn more economical. I then multiply it by sterilizing more grain in a pressure canner; so I can use more grain to inoculate the straw and it gets colonized really fast.
Did you make little holes in the bag so that the mycelium can breath? It does not look very healthy to me...
I think for the purpose of determining which substrate works best, I would use a conventional method of inoculation. Because otherwise you might never know if it's the method that did not work, or the substrate.
Black currents have a very strong taste that many people in the US are not used to. Red and white ones are more mild, but also less cold and deer-resistant.
Look at what others grow in your area. For me, it's raspberries. The climate is perfect for them, as well as PH - so they grow really well, which is a huge advantage.
I grew oysters last year. First inside, in a spare bathroom. Then moved them outside. Recently dug most of them in a garden bed, hope they will produce some more fruiting bodies. Great project for kids (and adults who want almost instant gratification)
We have an unusually warm February here. Temperatures are about 10C (20F) above normal, reaching 14C (57F) during the day. My perennials are waking up at least a month (or two?) before they "should" - currants, honeyberries, autumn olives, even some raspberries have swollen buds or even new leaves.
I've read somewhere about putting snow in the root area to prolong dormancy... but it looks like it's too late already. Will try to cover at least some plants when it is snowing or freezing hard.
Will they survive? Or, on the contrary, are we going to have a wonderful year with much longer than usual growing season?
I did my hugelculture bed with branches that were left by the previous owner who cut firewood on the property. Obviously, I was not able to stack the branches dense enough and there is tons of air pockets between them - making it an ideal habitat for mice.
By the way, I worried if Autumn Olives can become invasive in my case. But it looks like they might not - before fully established, they need regular watering. A few of mine "almost died" last summer. So it might be the reason why they are not classified as invasive west of Mississippi.
I've heard that many of the nursery trees are replanted twice - first when they get from dirt in wholesale nursery to the pot in retail nursery, and then when you buy it and plant to the ground. Thus, it's essentially no different than buying a 3-4 years old tree that has been in a nursery pot for two years.
Russell Olson wrote:I've had Jujube, Pawpaw, hardy kiwi, Goumi, and Schisandra die back to their roots and sprout bigger and healthier the next season, in a warm winter I'd expect minimal dieback from these.
American persimmon, chestnut, pecan, hickory, and blackberry all grow slowly but do just fine. Ripening time may be an issue with these. I've gotten blackberries late in the summer from the new primocane varieties.
Basically anything else is doing great though, even with some brutal winter temps last year. Grapes, apples, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries, blueberries, lignonberries, siberian kiwi, and annual vegetables all should be fine where you're at. Look for keywords "siberian", University of MN, University of Saskatchewan, Cornell, "cold hardy" "-20"
Russell, I have never heard about Schisandra before, but it sparked my interest. Do you use it as medicinal? Which variety is it, and where did you get it?
Penny's climate sounds very "Siberian" to me, too.
Welcome to the club! I am in a very similar climate here, in North Idaho. The description of your property matches mine pretty well.
There seem to be several other people from Montana on this forum, search for their posts for ideas. Also, search for Michael Pilarski - he apparently is successful growing a food forest in our climate.
And do not forget about quality fence, and a greenhouse for the tomatoes!
Michael Qulek wrote: I purposely wired the pots in such a way that they got tighter when pushed inwards, but pop apart when forced outwards. I'm hoping that as the trees grow, the new root growth will simply push the pots apart over time.
Some of my trees have been in the ground for 6 years now and don't show any signs of it being a problem yet. It could be a race though between tree growth and metal breakdown. It's really a mute point though, because the gophers and ground squirrels are so bad at my location, that NOTHING survives without hardware cloth!
I don't quite understand how the pots can fall apart when they are in ground, with the dirt holding them.
I was thinking about making bigger pots, but they would need bigger holes and more hardware cloth...