In late winter I attempted my first grafts. The rootstock was Bud 9 and Northern spy scion. I kept them stored in the garage using wet sawdust until I could plant in the spring. I'm getting ready to plant now so I checked one of the grafts and it looks like the grafts didn't heal. They were supposed to be whip/tongue grafts but I only managed to do a splice graft (first timer but I practiced). Plus the rootstock and scion weren't comparable thickness. So I'm wondering whether I should still plant the rootstocks even though the grafts didn't work, let the rootstock have a leader and then graft onto it down the road. Or not plant and retry next spring with hopes of having better success with the grafts? I buried one of the rootstock to propagate for future use. I guess either way would be okay I'm just discouraged at this point and wondering if I have better options. Thanks
Thanks everyone. I agree the first shrub like plant looks like something in the pea family. we mostly get black locust but I know it's not that. The leaves are thick and almost fuzzy (almost mullein texture). Locust are thin and smooth. (It's not something I planted). The third pic that's the plant at full maturity. If I remember from last year. It's gone by mid summer. I like that it pops up so I'm hoping to identify.
Im interested in what others say but I heard conflicting reports regarding buckwheat. They are in the Polygonaceae family and I remember Frank Cook saying that everything in this family is either edible or medicinal but nothing poisonous. So my tendency would rely on his word. I guess moderation is the key to everything and luckily everything has a season.
Cool stuff. I've seen some of your videos on YouTube before including the one where you hand dug a pond. But I was wondering if you could explain building that micro pond in this garden. I would like to incorporate some of these in my space. Thanks, Aaron
Hi, Trying to decide whether to keep these in a perennial garden. Kinda eliminated dandelion and chicory from the possibilities but not 100% on that. Leaves foot long or more and no flowering yet. If anyone has suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Aaron
@Joseph. This might be for a different topic but I wonder what you think about high brix gardening and growing nutrient dense food. I'm curious because I'm thinking (perhaps incorrectly) that even though a plant survives and produces seed that plant isn't necessarily worth saving if the soil is poor. Because your essentially creating plants that tolerate poor soils and not increasing health. all this of course comes from reading their literature of late and I'm curious what others think before heading down this path. That being said you personally have inspired me to save seeds and I appreciate what you bring to permies
I believe Brian Kierkvliet is a biodynamic farmer. He has done podcasts with Paul about it. He has YouTube videos of his own and is famously in Paul's video about using horsetail tea on his squash plant. i haven't personally taken a tour of his farm but from what I can see from various videos he has a great system setup to harvest water and nutrients on his property. Enjoy listening to Brian.
One last thought/suggestion is to build some insect habitat (insect hotel) around the gardens for predatory insects. Not sure who those predators would be or their specific habitat but YouTube or google could help with that.
Not sure what what work but maybe try dill, oregano, nasturtium in the mix. Oregano when flowers attracts many thin waist wasps (I believe they're called). A must have in any garden, imho, but it does spread. But aside from that I would recommend a soil test just to cover your bases. Living in CA I'm sure there is some university that does them. UConn does soil test here any it only costs $8/sample. Well worth the money.
Off the side of the house we have an annual vegetable garden. Two years ago this was typical suburban lawn. I attached soil test below. Overall I'm surprised that it isn't that terrible. The ratios seem to be a concern though especially phosphorous to potassium. Other comments in the report was that sample was low in organic matter and nitrogen. I have some worm casting and small amount of compost I just started (trying 18 day hot method). This year I'm trying square foot garden method so I already planted and seedlings are coming up. I did sow some vetch that hopefully the birds haven't got. Any help on interpreting or fixing potential issue is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Aaron
Anyone have a bad experience with mice/voles/moles eating their tubers? I have numerous tunnels and mounds and nearby plants have been destroyed (grape/alpine strawberry). I'm wondering if containers or digging them in the fall is a better option for me.
Texture is similar to purslane. We are still in late winter in CT but this entire plant is bright green. I found in the garden where amaranth has been growing past couple of years. Interested in knowing what family this belongs to. Please see pic.
This is an old article that I remember reading a few years back. Toby Hemenway has some responses in the comment section that are definitely worth the read. I thought Eric Toesnmeier also responded in the comment section but perhaps they have since been deleted. Not sure whether that was his choice or the authors.
Just a word of advice as far as using the plastic bag method to stratify the seeds-I recommend using mostly sand or clay (something light in color). It may sound silly but black seeds in dark colored dirt/peat moss are hard to find. I also discovered most of my seeds turned to mush so perhaps be careful with adding too much moisture. I started with 10 seeds and ended up with only 2 in pots. But such is my luck.
I'm curious where the original 3 days of wetness reference came from. I generally feel statements like that are overblown. So on day 4 the plant dies? I live in CT the 9th wettest state and haven't seen any adverse affects of rain (currently in a drought).
Looks like cabbage moth damage. Check for similar colored green looking caterpillars. I would check your soil. I go with premise that poor soils lead to unhealthy plants which are then eaten by insects.
I did seed balls with a variety of plants but unfortunately can't identify what came up. (should take notes next time). It looks like a kale leaf but lighter in color. I took a nibble and it is hot like wasabi and peppery in flavor like nasturtium. Thinks for any ideas.
I came across these saplings under some pines in my yard. I believe they are hickory. If so is there a way to identify what kind of hickory? More importantly I would like to move them to a better place in my yard. The small one is about 6in and the other is about 2ft. Is now a good time to transplant? Is there any special method to transplanting?
Marc he is trying to establish something resembling a forest. I rarely see grass as the predominant player in any forest. I think his original question implied looking for a practical, less intensive way to get rid of it. In practical terms how long do you think doing nothing would get rid of grass?
Plant something else there wouldn't that imply getting rid of grass? Simply planting something doesn't get rid of grass especially in a well established yard. My personal experience involved the very laborious task of turning the top layer over or wheelbarrow somewhere else and then layer on leaves and woodchips. Grass still comes up in spots but I'm hoping it wont be able to compete in the long run after things get established.
I would be interested in what others say but in my experience raspberries quickly colonize an area and crowd out anything near it. I have mine as an understory to larger trees. Started with 5 and 2yrs later have too many to count.
I wanted to identify the purplish plant with alternating leaves. I tried to track this last year and if I remember correctly it doesn't stay purple and becomes shrub/tree like rather than flowering plant. Right now its next to rhubarb under an apple tree. Ultimately wondering if it should stay or go.