It is very likely that all the earthworks that your up stream neighbor did, has somehow moderated the highs and lows of the creek on your property.
maybe it a win-win for both of you, or maybe he has depleted his top soil but enriched the sub-soil which then empties out on your property. It might have taken a year for his earthwork to charge up the soil so maybe that is why there is a disconnect.
It is also possible that someone is pumping up alot of deep aquifer water, and charging the water table.
Most adenine-type cytokinins are synthesized in roots.
Cytokinins (CK) are a class of plant growth substances (phytohormones) that promote cell division, or cytokinesis, in plant roots and shoots. They are involved primarily in cell growth and differentiation, but also affect apical dominance, axillary bud growth, and leaf senescence. Folke Skoog discovered their effects using coconut milk in the 1940s at the University of Wisconsin–Madison.
SWALES: Build ditches/swales/depressions every row to collect water and give it time to soak in.
WOODCHIP: This will help house good soil life, water and minerals, cut down on evaporation and run off, help aerate the soil via soil life.
BIOCHAR: If you are worried about the hay/woodhip catching on fire, this can be incorporated into the soil, and it will hold more water, aerate, house soil life, hold mineral
ROCKDUST: This will add mineral that you soil is missing vs just the usual N_P_K fertilizer, the water in your soil will now contain extra dissolved mineral so less water needed
MICROBES: Fungi have much more water-efficient "roots" and they can mine the minerals for the trees and trade it for sugar, All those microbes, pooping/peeing/decaying is manure.
LEGUMES: These guys will fix most of the nitrogen that you need and when they die/decay/chopped/eaten-poop. they will release the nitrogen that they have.
They already survive a week while being shipped to me. And they are already dormant so as long as they are kept moist you have quite a few days to plant them out
I like to soak them in a pucket of water for 1hrs with inoculant in it.
then place then in the usual 3FT WIDE hole, compact the earth
then water and compact the earth some more.
I recommend not adding any amendments to the hole, but you can top dress with whatever you want (rockdust, biochar, fertilize, etc)
You can however work in amendment into the soil as deep as possible over the entire plot of land/orchard, before planting, this will increase the fertility of land evenly.
In botany, a sport or bud sport, traditionally called lusus, is a part of a plant that shows morphological differences from the rest of the plant.
Sports may differ by foliage shape or color, flowers, or branch structure.
An example of a bud sport is the nectarine, at least some of which developed as a bud sport from peaches.
Other common fruits resulting from a sport mutation are the red Anjou pear and the 'Pink Lemonade' lemon which is a sport of the "Eureka" lemon.
The roots normally produce the growth/master hormone for the top part of the tree thus inducing earlier fruiting and dwarfing. The hormones might travel and even affect the gene expression of the top part of the tree but sir layering will not give you a hybrid of the rootstock and graft.
Think of the "natural preservative" that we historically soaked rail way ties/lumber in. The oil that is in biochar can be vaguely similar, and so it can suppress plant life. Of course given time fungi will break it down.
Also if the pores of the biochar is filled with lets say regular cooking oil, said oil will not let water and the minerals that are dissolved in the water to enter the pores and be trapped, for later use by plant/fungi 'roots'
Why is biochar good:
1)instead of the dissolved minerals leaching out of the soil the bio-char/activated charcoal loosely hold onto it until the plants need it.
1b)with the plants having absorbing water with higher amount of mineral it will overall need less water to get all it's required dissolved minerals
1c)with all the fungi "roots" growing in the biochar, plants can just trade sugar with fungi for minerals instead of wasting time using ineffective+wasteful plant roots
2)The pores of the biochar will house alot of microbes that are all pooping/peeing (manure) and decaying so more bio-available mineral that is readily available
3)The pores of the biochar houses "good" microbes
4)The pores of the biochar holds water like "sponge" so less frequent watering
5)Regular biomass will capture carbon for 6month -300yrs until it dies and then it rots and turn into CO2 in a a season or two, at most 7yrs. But biochar will not rot for thousands, maybe millions of year. so less greenhouse gas.
Nitrogen fixing plants do in fact take nitrogen from the air to build their cells vs taking it from the soil like other plants.
Nitrogen fixing plants WILL NOT however just squirt it out everywhere for other plants to use it. Other plants only get it after the nitrogren fixing plant (roots/leaves/fruits/seed/stem) has been killed and it decomposes.
Now if a cow or bird or bugs comes along and eat the nitrogen rich legume and then dies or poop/pee, the nitrogen will be released from the plant and enter the soil.
All that said, just letting nature take it's course (bugs/birds/winter/etc), without you doing anything special alot of legume will release 150lbs of nitrogen per acre. I think dutch clover can release 150lbs per acre. Not too sure how much Goumi releases. But every single nitrogen fixing plant species "fixes/release" different amount of nitrogen so you would have to plant the best one for you.
But the real take away if to keep your soil life very active, with all these worms and microbes pooping+peeing and dieing and decaying you will have alot of nitrogen available. so encourage soil life.
You can add bio-char anytime of the year. If I had to pick a particular time, it would be in the fall:
1)The bio-char get to leach just a bit more oil from it's pores
2)It get to "steal/absorb" minerals from the soil until it reached an equilibrium without affecting growing plants.
3)It is still warm enough for the microbes to cross-colonized the bio-char and also the soil.
4)It gets to absorb water/snow melt
5)It is worked deeper into the soil over the winter, and less worry about biochar dust or drying out.
Biochar(vented sungas) is different from charcoal kiln. Charcoal is made at a lower temperate so it pore of the charcoal is filled with oil/tar that actually suppress plant growths for years, eventually it will leach out but it will take a really long time. It also releases unburnt hydocarbon into the atmosphere. From what I have read bio-char made at 450F is the best, lower temp and it contains too many oils and higher temps and the yeild goes down and the pH of the cio-char gets to high
One option would be to grow herbs.
A 4inch pot of thyme, rosemary, sage, etc can be sold for $5+.
Check the price for a tiny spring herbs at your usual superchain supermarket.
So with just 1000sqft you could be looking at 4pots per sqft and $5 per pot for a total of $20,000 in revenue. $5 *4 *1000.
And you could do at least 3 sets of harvest spaced 2 months apart so more like $120,000 assuming you had the market and you didn't need walkway.
you can even buy the potted hers in 4inch pots 1/2 ready for about $2 each. Easily giving you 7 harvest a year at 4,000 plants per harvest at $3 gross profit.
Unlike cut/picked harvest, the potted herbs can last for a few weeks/months if needed or cant be sold
Roasted garlic can also generate similar amount of revenue, but they are more prepared product so the red tape and paperwork might be more. And the marker would be less.
A couple bee hives that you sell raw honey from would also be wonderful.
And if you could somehow get a market (maybe online) to sell composting worms at $20/lbs that would also be good.
Your raspberries will grow wonderful in you location+zone, even in shade you will still get some berries.
They will fruit the year you get it, because the fruiting bud are already there from last year.
And it might even fruit the next year because most of it's root are still in the acidic potted soil it came in.
After that you will get less/zero fruits if the soil ph is too high. Even that you are on the east coast it is very likely that your soil is acidic enough where you will still get a harvest. But if you add slow release pure sulphur into the hole when you plant it and around the dripline then you be fine for 10yrs.
Very few Americans are employed as farmers because we have given our jobs to technology/machinery/robots.
In fact most tangible manufacturing jobs have been given to automation machinery/robot and not to humans no matter the country.
We are now at the point were alot of service jobs are now being given to software/robot.
So I worry more about that it used to employ 100 people to make a XYZ in the old days but now 90 of those jobs have been given to automated machinery and we dont complain about that but we complain about the 5 that have been given to some foreign country. One could call that injustice.
I want to buy my food made from low-tech manure vs high tech fertilizer. Small batch hand harvested vs self-driving and harvesting farm equipment. I rather know that our collective $100 when to employ 10people and no machinery vs 1person and 10 AI-robot.
But Free Trade means the free movement of (1)money, (2)goods/services, and (3)people/corporation.
We should make it illegal for american companies to do any biz with Iran, North Korea or any country in the world, so no more microsoft software in EU or Africa and likewise we should stop those companies from other countries from doing biz here.
We should also stop americans from investing in other countries with our money and we should stop them from investing in our country too.
With the plastic bags filled with earth idea, the plastic is going to breakdown and not last too long in the sun.
You will then have microscopic plastic on your vegetables, and also they will leach whatever "wonderful" chemical it has.
I do prefer the stone idea more, due to the fact that it is more natural and permanent.
I do think that vines and brambles will take over a house much less a slope if given enough time and no upkeep.
So I am not too sure how much weeding time you will save.
I like the idea of getting some plants/woodchip/etc on the slope and then some goose/duck/chicken/sheep to keep it in check with some rotational grazing.
They are not too steep, they can used to survive and they can still can survive with just plant cover.
So my recommendation is just to get plants growing on the slopes, get some Nitrogen fixing plants (dutch clover and over seed 30lbs/acre)
You could also get some some haybale/strawbale and get some oyster mushroom growing.
The haybale can ask like a "gabion/block" and the mushroom will turn it into a mat as it decompose and hold the soil.
Now as to how to get rid of the bramble. Well......
Short Answer is NO woodchip does not acidify your soil
I have heard people say that drinking apple cider vinegar with a pH of 2.4 as alkalizing which I find to be confusing.
I will say that raminal woodchip have a pH very close to 6.8 and even dry regular woodchip have a pH close to 7.
I will say that if you bury woodchip it will create an explosion of fungi soil life, and they will out-compete the plant roots and "stunt" the plant.
To avoid this "over-population" of fungi and plant "stunting" don't bury the woodchip only lay it on top of the soil as in regular mulching.
Pine Needles like Lemons do have a pH of 3.
So if you were to blend either one up the liquid would have a low pH.
However if you just leave them to dry out, acids like the water will evaporate and the drymass will have a pH of 7.
The acids are also water soluble and really just gets washed away or deconstructed after they react with the soil.
It sounds like you only have 3months where plants and microbes can really do there stuff.
So I would add at least 2lbs composting worms to the system once the plants leaf out.
Add some kefir inoculatant once the plants leave out too so as to have the good bacteria/microbe outcompete the bad (e-coli) bacteria.
I few needs of the system and how to improve it
Increase Carbon - Sawdust
Increase Temp - Earth Sheltered/Basement/Heater
Increase Oxygen - Solar Ventilation, Stirring the mush,
Increase Decomposition - add worms, bacteria
Reduce Water - Increase Airflow and water input in the system
Even if the water was running over sand based on what you said it should still be flowing a bit further.
So I worry that said hole will get bigger and one day swallow your home.
Maybe you have a "cave" under that layer of clay?
It could be a buried gas/oil tank that has rotted out or a oil septic tank or something.
I have seen people do
6)Oyster Mushroom Grow Tower (wood chip/straw)
7)Vegetable Grow Bed (sand/gravel bed)
8) Pump, piping, etc
If you are adding 100gallon per day to the system, then your system would have to be 1,000 gallon aka 10X otherwise you can shock the system.
The fish will eat the worms, oyster mushroom compost (mycelium after you eat the the fruiting body, chickens will also eat this), duckweed/Azolla (sheep/goat/cow can also eat this or green manure for compost), you could also add a BSF composting/fish feeder unit in the summer, and also a bug zapper feeder for the fish/chicken.
1)Electric Heating Element(100%) powered by solar panel-electric (15%)
2)CO2 Heat Pump (500% to 100%) powered by solar panel-electric (15%)
Stratified Hot Water Tank = max temp 195F
Stratified Hot Water Tank = 700+ gallon
Domestic Hot Water (120F)
Radiant Floor (80F) or Radiator on Wall (140F)
I would say that battery is your 700gallon hot water tank, you just have to insulate it well and if possible stratify it.
I have seen plans for a 1)cement tank filled with 2)rigid insulation then 3)pond liner then 4)hot water.
As for how much energy your system will need each day or each month. it depends.
Once we figure out how much energy your system will be needing.
We can then figure out how much input/solar panels you need and what your storage(thermal/battery) you will need and the size heating element.
Domestic Hot Water = How many gallons of water per day at what temp and how much insulation of piping
Radiant Heating = Will you be using this for radiant heating and how much BTU do you currently use for heating, how insulated is your current place/etc
Tank Insulation = How much heat is being lost from your tank, how many btu
dutch clover (n-fixer)
forage chicory and daikon radish
thyme family and carrot family
(I know that there is suppose to be some biomass/grass family plants too, I have never planted them myself due to my tiny scale I just get free woodchip, but I have heard that rye/wheat/oats are good)
I dont have one but from time to time I do make jerky at 140F for safety, I am always worried about dehydrating it at lower temps.
I have dehydrated at 110F before but even then I give it a 5minute blast at high temperature to at least kill the microbes on the surface.
Then I dip it in some water/juice kefir and dehydrate again.
and dehydrate fruits/plants at 105F to keep as many enzymes "alive" as possible
It is not suppose to be thick, I know that milk kefir is like a slimy gummy bear(good) and that water kefir once they start losing their ..... after starving/low pH they start turning into a thick liquid (okay to drink but it means they are almost dead).
It sounds like you are doing some type of wild-fermentation without a starter, which is fine and cool.
You have for sure created something new. It might be something really healthy and good.
But it might also be something really horrible and deadly.
To be safe dont use it.
For fun, keep it around and keep making some batch.
Send a sample to a lab to see what is in it, compared to milk kefir and villi and bad stuff (e.coli/etc)
I find your creation really interesting but I wouldn't drink it. If I used it to ferment my bread and then bake it at 450F I would try a sample MAYBE.
Once dormant season pruning is complete, spray trees with Horticultural Oil.
Apply Tree Paint early in the season to the trunks of susceptible trees to reduce bark cracking, sun stress and suitable egg-laying areas.
Pheromone traps can be used as effective monitoring tools, but should not be relied upon to control a pest population.
Applications of Beneficial Nematodes (Steinernema carpocapsae and Heterorhabditis bacteriophora) have shown positive results in controlling larvae when applied directly to bark cracks with frass buildup.
When adults are present, release Trichogramma Moth Egg Parasites to control egg populations.
Insecticide applications to the tree trunk can be made to kill the eggs already present. Neem Oil, Pyrethrins and Azadirachtin are all suitable for controlling most larves.
Application location should be isolated to where damage or pests are seen to limit effects on the environment.
Mating disruption using pheromone dispensers has proven to be the most effective borer damage control.
Overall tree health is paramount in fending off pest insect populations, so fertilizing, watering and environmental conditions should be monitored continuously.
Clear ground cover and vegetation away from the base of the tree as both will provide additional protection for eggs and larvae.
It wasn't pruned properly and now the branches are "growing into and hurting" each other and making it easy for pest to get inside and attack it.
I think it has already been invaded with some pest and it is probably hard to get rid of them.
Spray with the entire tree with good microbe to outcompete/attack the bad microbes.
Kill the pest eggs/spore that overwinter underneath it.
Inoculate under the tree with good microbes to outcompete/attack bad bugs
Address tree stress (mal-nutrition/over watering/etc) which could be creating a weak immune system (rock dust, woodchip, biochar, etc)
Ok your 17acres have:
1) road access at the property line
2) a deliverable address for Amazon/Fedex? (do you need to call the county to get a mailbox? Cost if any?)
3) utility at the property line (I know that water hookup for me cost $30,000, so I can see you not wanting to go that route)
4) 30 minutes drive to the "city"/hospital/walmart/hardware store/P.O. box/storage space/woodchip/free labor
5) ATV/utility vechile+wagon
6) backcountry 4-season camping gear + years of skill/experience
-Do you also have a storage bin/shed? Where do you want to keep the tools?
-How far into the property from the road can you drive and park your vehicle?
-If you cant drive into your lot and you plan on doing some grading, road-building?
What usual tool are needed:
A) Backcountry 4-season ultralight camping gear (tent, water filter, firestarter),etc
B) Farming/permaculture tools (broad fork, shovel, level for contour, machete, etc)
C) Lumberman tools (saw, rope, axe, etc)
D) Carpentry/Homebuilder tools (hammer, nails, saw, level, chisel, etc)
E) Homesteading/Food-Prep tools (dehydrator, seeds, canning-pressure cooker/sous vid, gun, etc)
F) Hunting/Foraging Tools (Fishing line, gun, etc)
G) Primitive Tools (nothing, just knowledge to replicate all of the above from on-site)
I like the ideas that you have listed.
Ponds (10ft wide, 2ft deep "ditches/swales) on contour that connects/drains to the creek
Berms (10ft wide, 2ft high mound of dirt that came from the pond/swale) on contour that is high and dry
There will be a 4ft difference between the bottom of the Swale/Pond and the top of the Berm/Hugel you can make this 6ft (3ft+3ft) if you want to.
With a 10ft wide Berm/Swale you can even get Machinery on top/bottom,
So cows would be no issues, in fact these dry berms can also act as natural rotational paddocks for your cows.
In the Pond/Swale you can grow some fish.
If you stabilize the slopes of the berm/Swale with strawbale you can also get oyster mushroom too.
The fish will also eat the mushroom compost too.
Hugelkultures (berms with buried wood) are great for planting annuals/vegetables but they are HORRIBLE for planting fruit trees. Because after 3+ years the height will go down by 80% once the wood decompose/settle. And the fruit tree roots will be exposed and it will move too much and the fruit trees really will not like and it will be weak (immune system) and easily attacked anything that comes along.
The mosquito might be a problem with a swale/pond with water, but with fish they are just food, so no mosquito problem for anyone.
You aren't importing water in water tankers/pipe onto your land so you aren't adding water to your land/neighborhood.
You are simple using the surface water that is already there and not going anywhere (swamp) to get a produce and help the environment.
Maybe your neighbors will actually want to replicate you after seeing your increase productivity (eggs, chicken/duck meat, honey-bee, lush pasture, milk/cheese/kefir-yogurt, beef/meat, vegetable, fish, mushroom, fruits, nuts)
I would buy a ton of biochar for $800. But if you do make your own, based on what i have seen making it at 450 Celsius is the best temp, if it is made at lower temp then it takes forever for the biochar to lose it oil layer which suppresses plant and if you make it higher the pH of the bio-char is too high which can make it harder for it to hold the cations/mineral in the soil in a bio-available way. Also at whatever temperature you make it,
The bio-char will need time to:
1)Leach out the "bad" compounds in it.
2)Steal/Filter out mineral from the soil/compost/rockdust into its matrix. While it is doing this the plant root will starve.
3)Time to build up a population of good microbes in its matrix
4)Time for the microbes in its matrix to "steal/absorb" mineral from the compost/soil/rockdust, while it is doing this the plant roots will starve.
When I plant fruit trees I usually slowly pre-digg the holes and back fill it months before the bare-root/potted plants arrive.
Then once the plants arrive, I can easily plant out all the plants quickly. So please free to do all the start digging, charging your bio-char if you dont buy it pre-charged
If you get bareroot, I would buy some good fungi, add it to bucket of water and then let the bare root soak in that water for 30+ minutes and then plant.
I also recommend spending $100+ on edible winecap mushroom to add to the woodchip. I would also get some hay-bale/straw-bale and inoculate it with edible oyster mushroom.
In my previous I said thyme family and then rosemary family. It should have been:
(D)Daikon Radish/Chicory-Dandelion/Borage-Comfrey family
Give yourself alot of time to build a shelter by spending alot of money on a ultralight 4 season tent. So that you can be warm, being cold/wet can really take you out of the game. Also get 4 or at least 2 tents. So that people can have privacy and also so that some redundancy exist in cast something unexpected happen.
You might have some contraption that can harvest rainwater and purify it, but go ahead and get life straw+ceramic filter water bottle, so that you can use any stream, river, pond, muddy puddle, even pee if needed, it will not be for long term but it will give you some buffer.
I know that you will probably get unlimited amount of food but bring some dense food like multi-vitamin/mineral and oil, hopefully you never have to use it, not too sure about your protein needs though, but some grub, worm, fish or squirrel should be enough protein, (but not enough calories obviously).
1) Try expensive ultralight backpacking for 2weeks and survive right now in the winter. Return to the "city" decompress and restock
2) Then move up to cheap primitive wilderness camping for 2 weeks still in the winter, return to the "city" and make notes of how to improve
3) Move to the next level without the 2week limit and camp for months
Personally I think it is easier to find water in the winter, there are less snakes and ticks and such, it is easier for me to find and hunt deer, it is easier for coyotes and bear to see my group and avoid me, most animals dont have young to feed and they are less protective and thus less dangerous. So I think that winter is the best time to do a 2-week trial run. Also remember that when you move in march you will not be able to eat the gains/tubers/seed/fruits of what you plant for a good 90days (12weeks), so a 2-4week trial in the winter shouldn't seen as .....
Assuming you have all the wilderness camping skills and you have done it for 4+ week at a time.
Then you will have to identify what you will need your tools for
1)quickly build a house/shelter, to build a long term house
2)to take care of sewer,
3)to harvest water,
4)to get meat and
5)to get stable plant food,
6)plus get fuel,
8)maybe how to take care of shoes/clothing needs
What type of housing do you plan on building, that will help to know what material, tools and substitutions that could be made
How do you plan on taking care of sewer, solar compost tiolet, let it float, septic tank, random covered deposits.
For water do you plan on using a bladder to bring it up from a stream, digg a well, rain+tank catchment, at the source with a lifestraw, solar distillation,
And for your meat, will you focus on grubs or do you need a gun to hunt bear or maybe just a fishing line.
For stable crop, while you might be able to identify or even grow enough greens for the 1st 90days what about the bulk calories?
I might get a sat phone and solar panel like alot of mountaineer guys, but that might not be a need and so just tarp for deadlog is enough
After you have you slowed down the flow of water and stabilize the soil/cliff.
The next step could be to fill up the "bowl"
So build a wall across the bowl to "dam up the stream".
While you want to trap the sediments to fill the dam/bowl, you actually want the water to flow away freely.
So we are going to make our dam wall leaky, maybe out of something like haybale, it might need a log behind it.
Yeah, straw and woodchip will increase the soil life (which includes slugs). Now you need ducks, chickens will work too but chickens tend to eat more vegetables.
So now with the same amount of land you can get mushroom, duck/chicken egg and also meat, and you can still get your regular vegetables.
40ft steep cliffs is no joke. If it was made of granite I wouldn't worry about erosion too much, but yours is made of clay.
What happens if you drain and dry out the soil and it becomes dry, crusty and powdered ... EROSION by gravity, wind, critters, water.
So I think that getting the soil super dry will actually increase the erosion and lost of land.
1) What I would do is slow down the speed and amount of water running down the surface of the "cliff" that is eroding the cliff.
An embankment of dirt, haybale, woodchip, living grass, etc you could even dig down with a swale it too will slow down the water and give it time to go sub-surface.
2) Next is the actual bank/cliff, I would keep animals off, the bank, maybe your neighbors goat walk on it or maybe your have some.
3) Gabion to stabilize the cliff, or some willow roots every 12inches vertically and horizontally.
It sounds like your land is "swampy" What you need is mounds/hills not depression.
Hugel/Mound aka hugelculture
Aqua/Water aka Aquaculture
So I would build an anti-swale to plant the fruit trees on. These fruit trees would be on high and dry land.
And the dirt for the anti-swale would come for an swale that is running right next to it or somewhere else.
So basically build the swales, but dont plant in them plant in the excavated land. I would make the swales 8ft wide and 2ft below grade and the high and dry mounds 8ft wide and 2ft above grade for a difference of 4ft.
You might even be able to get some type of fish, going or duckweed for your cattle, etc
Shelter - On-site, trees/wood to start fire and make handle for stone axe, stone for stone axe, trees for pole and stone for chisel to make a house frame, and stone and dirt/clay and grass for cob wall and floor, and grass for roofing, vines and bark for rope/twine. Ultralight 4 season backpacking just to get there
Water - Ceramic Filter/Life Stray for surface water, containers for storing/boiling.
Food - multivitamin-mineral, sugar, koji+kefir microbes, oil and huntiing tools, wild plant and mushroom identification, small/large game hunting skill+permit?, fishing tools+permit?, seed to start your vegetable garden.
Fire - I dont think a sulfur tip match is going to cut it, cob/clay rocket stove
Protection - possible gun for coyotes and such, general knowledge in dealing with bears, snake and such
I dont think AI is needed (vision/Voice/permutation/etc skills)
I few data points will give it alot of information
User Inputted Address/GPS location, will give it your Heat Zone, Chill Hours, GDD rainfall amount and pattern eco-region, temp, soil type, size of your lot, ongoing temp data from internet, which will narrow down alot
At this point the software will do a base, support system layout and cost, based on selected area.
The user can then select what modules they want to add and their preference
Raised bed or regular vegetable gardenin
Fruit trees: Dwarf or Semi, usual or exotic
Nut Tree: 18ft or 40ft
Mushroom: Easy(Oyster/WineCap), Log or Greenhouse, yield wanted
Bee Hive: Easy Warre or Reg, yield wanted
Greenhouse: Size, Cold or Heated, Integrated or just vegetable, yield wanted slider
Egg/Chicken: Green House or Outside or Pastured, yield wanted slider
Fish:Heated Greenhouse or Outside, yield wanted
1kW Solar Panel Array =4kWhr/day or 120kWHr/month
1kW Hydro = 24kWHr/day or 720kWHr/month
1kW Windmill = 12kWHr/day or 360kWHr/month but only if you have 16mph winds at a height of 150ft which is around 10% of USA at a height of 30ft it is only 1% of USA
1acre with 15ft centers can fit about 108 free tree. I wonder how many trees you plan on getting, and how many acres
1) Personally I would "clear-cut" an entire acre and plant it out vs just a little pocket here and there, but that just me.
2) I like the rule of thumb that says 25% of the canopy tree should be Nitrogen fixers, and at establishment 90% should be nitrogen fixer
(think dutch clover covering 90% of the acres from an aerial picture)
3) I would uniformly try and incorporate bio-char and rockdust into the top soil before I try and plant any thing.
4) Other than the uniform layer of rockdust and bio-char top-dressing I would not try and amend the 3ft holes that I plant the trees in.
5) at the edge of the 3ft hole I would plant (A)daikon radish, (B)thyme family, (C) Rosemary Family, (D) Legume but there should already be a top of dutch clover/etc
6)a 6inch layer of woodchip, maybe even more if you have some ducks to eat slugs.
7)with 6inches of woodchip you will probably have to plant something else other than dutch clover for nitrogen fixation.
Of the above there is quite a few you can do from now even before spring comes around