I would say Top opening (chest) fridge vs regular fridge. The cold air doesn't flow out.
I would say only visit it once per day or at least as little as possible.
Store stuff outside the fridge (carrot, cabbage, etc)
Keep the Fridge as full as possible, so there is less air to lose/chill daily.
You can also make your own fridge too, buy the outside compressor+internal chiller from a boat shop vendor online.
I think that office politic aka pecking order is the same if not worse than complaining/gossiping/venting.
Discussion of any path/problem/person could be seen as gossiping.
When the owner/top management does it. It is deemed okay
When the little guys at the watercooler does it. It is deemed weird.
The truth is that everyone does it, and it is not weird.
The difference is that we don't want the little guys dictating how things are run or even discussing it only the steering committee/owner. Because only we have the power to do that. And guess what as the owner it is okay to setup such a system it is okay to be upfront and say I am a benevolent dictator.
What can help is clearly communicating expectations and clearly listening to the other persons expectations. Then coming to some type of agreement before entering into a IC contract/relationship.
That said I do think it is wise to be respectful, no physical fighting, verbal yelling and slandering others, even if you don't agree with them in terms of way of farming/raising kids/eating habit/religion/etc, etc.
Unless you want to start a new flock (temp coop) with baby chicks(mutts or imported) every two years and cull all the chickens from the old flock. Then move the youngsters into the old coop after some repair.
I mostly agree except with walnut (and possible others in that family).
They don't play nice with the prunus sub-family and apple/pear sub-family, but seems okay with blackberry sub-family (maybe it does affect them but it just makes them nice vs invasive). I think they are fine with all the other berry in whatever family.
I have also heard that other than apple the rest of the rose family (prunus+blackberry+pear sub-family) is fine.
And that the tomato and potato are not too happy maybe wolfberry/goji is fine.
Blueberry family is not okay with it
Or the Nannyberry family
Next is polyculture garden (mint/thyme family vs carrot/dill family vs bean family vs onion family vs cabbage family vs spinach family).
The interactions are very complex. Too much to write out. Maybe I will post a infographic chart later, but you didn't really ask about garden just food forest.
Get ones with very obvious different color vs ones with same color but just vaguely different patterns.
You have a 12month until egg production is affected by chicken age. So for the next 6 months replace with a specific while culling half of the flock
Then switch over to another color bird while culling the rest
Color are: BLACK WHITE BROWN GRAY
For a full list checkout http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/hendersonschickenchart.pdf
A) 25ft+ nut (chestnut, heartnut, etc)
B) 16ft+ fruit (semi-dwarf fruit tree, pawpaw, hazelnut, etc)
C) 10ft+ small fruit (elderberry, goumi, jujube, medlar, columnar apple, dwarf fruit trees)
D) 5ft+ berry (currant, gooseberry, blueberry, etc)
E) 2ft+ herb (mint/thyme family, onion, comfrey, daikon, carrot/celery family)
F) 1ft Dutch Clover
Size of guild at maturity = A+ B/2 + C/2 + D/2 + E/2 = 25+8+5+1 = 39ft + (4ft walkway)
At establishment I plant alot of dutch clover, herbs, berries and then cull as the fruits/nuts require more space.
Dutch Clover for my nitrogen needs
Herbs to confuse pest, predatory insect habitat, onion family for bad soil nematodes, soil areation + mineral mining
Berries for a harvest next year
Small fruit for a harvest the 2nd year
Fruits for a harvest the 3rd year
Nuts for a harvest the 6th year
Dutch clover will provide most of the nitrogen as the food forest matures until it is shaded out.
Autumn olive/Seaberry at the small fruit layer with a harvest
I prefer Adler over locust. They are easier to prune, handle and remove and I can get 16ft+ cultivars or 25+ cultivars or 90ft+ cultivars.
When you have 50 different species, the odds of all or even 25% of them getting hit by pesr in any given year is tiny, but over a 20yr period every single one of them will get hit by pest. But on any given year you will be okay.
If you want to harvest corn to eat/sell/turn to feed. It will take 75days+
So a bit longer than 60days but that is fine, stacking function is good.
To make bio-char a ditch or metal trough and add biomass/dry corn.
Keep on adding a new layer once it develops a layer of ash.
(similar to when light your charcoal to grill and you know it is 'ready' once the heavy smoke and big flames are over and the 'coal' has a thin layer of ash)
There are some designs where you can use the heat/syngas that is generated to power an engine/generator or heat a greenhouse/aquaponic pond, cook with.
Growing your own mulch is growing 10ft corn every 60days and then chop drying them and then adding that as mulch even better would be to 'half-burn it' to make biochar. That much corm will make alot of mulch. you can probaly do 5sets per year. In no time your soil could have 20% carbon with that bio-char.
1inch mulch over your site will disappear super quick so you might not be able to hold enough water+mineral+soil life to make it self-sustaining enough. That is why making it around 7inches thick sounds supper.
I like partially sunken hugelculture because it buries the carbon deeper in the soil, and if you don't have enough water during the dry season, the root can access that stored water. But it it also above soil level so during the wet season the roots have have dry feet
Sounds like they are saying you linked to something that was placed on the internet without the owners consent.
Do you have some proof to show that the owner agreed to post their content online?
For example they aren't selling it.
They stated it was free for anyone.
They have same/similar content posted for free elsewhere.
I am sure you could make your case,
Sometimes content don't cost any money, but I have to signup and become a member, so technically we can't share.
Other times content is free and shareable with lots of linkback to buy a product.
Content creators do need to make a living.
Sharing a picture/paragraph/trailer is fine in most case but the entire content maybe not.
Even better yet create your own land race. Get alot of different cultivars plant them and track the cultivars that you like.
Then buy some more of those cultivars next season, then save the cross pollinated seeds.
Replant those seeds and save the corns that you like the most.
Two people surviving on just $10,000 per year without any government aid is very very hard.
I assume that you don't pay the full cost of your healthcare just deductible, and that you don't pay car gas/insurance/maintenance/save for a new car
Trying to bring the cost down to $10,000/yr seems so hard. Would be super interested to see what a yearly budget looks like. I am sure I can learn something from it to save a few dollars.
Others might like it too and use it to help manage their budget.
You might have to pasteurize it. Otherwise the microbes will turn starch/fruit to sugar to alcohol then to vinegar. Plus alot of weird aromatic compounds, amino acids, vitamins and sulfur compound. Possible even bad microbes, but even without bad microbes the smell might get to you.
House 3bdrm, 1bath (40k parts +40k labor)
Support: Solar Heating (10K), Solar Electric (10K), Septic (5k), Well+Purification (20K)
Land $20k for the 1st acre (homestead/food forest), then $10k for the next 4acre (pond+milk goat+firewood), then $1,000 each additional acre (cattle/herd).
After that it is just monthly ongoing expense ($24,000/yrs)
A) Do your zone1 (vegetables, herbs, mushroom, tubers/roots, grain/sunflower/fava bean)
I like the bio-intensive way of doing it. I think 2,500sqft per person.
So 7,500sqft for the 3 of you plus 25% extra for walkway. For a total of 10,000sqft.
I would import some hay/straw + manure to make compost and double dig to get that 7,500sqft up and going.
B) Next I would do 2 bee hive. You can wait years to harvest if life gets hectic.
C) Next I would do 1acre of nut+fruits+berries+vines about 200plants. Get some machinery to dig the holes, do mini earthworks if needed.
Top dress the entire acre with compost, biochar, straw, rockdust, worm tea, mushroom slurries, sea90/minerals.
Digg the 200 holes at 15ft centers and plant away.
D) After that is done, chicken/egg. Import their feed and setup a automatic feeder+water
E) Dig out you pond and setup earthworks/swales to feed water into it.
After that you can then do more intensive animal system where you can never go on vacation, plant out more of the land as food forest, setup a U-Pick farm, etc, etc.
I prefer LiFePO4 batteries they last at least 5 times as long, with twice as much usable power. no problem with motor surge. They don't need maintenance/fumes/acid/lead or extra weight.
How much power do you see yourself using per day?
My above system assumes 10kWH/day
Lighting =0.5kWH (10x LED (10w) for 5hrs)
LED TV/Tablet-PC/Phone = 1kWH (4x 50W for 5hr)
Appliance/etc = 9kWH
What is your peak usage?
I assumed just 4000W thus only one inverter rated for 4000W and about 4600WHr in LiFePO4 battery.
I would just put my system about in a laundry room.
Going with your lead batteries.
I think the basement is perfect.
Wires from battery to inverters and chargers should be at a max 6ft.
When it comes to wires from solar/wind to charge controller they can be pretty far away esp as the DC voltage goes or if the amperage is kept below 10amps and the wire is reasonable thick. You could run all the solar strings wire to the house independently and then combine then there.
When it comes to wind expect 1/5th of whatever it is rated for 1000W becomes 200W at best but you do get 24hr production so 4.8kWHr per day.
I think you might like this.
Inverter $4,400 8000W. With Battery Input+Generator Input+Grid Input. So Two AC input and One DC input. It will charge the battery too, and also automatically switch between and combine power sources to match load. And in the future you can connect whatever solar charge controller you like to the battery.
Alligator pond? I always think about that when I hear pond+Florida.
But on a more serious note, get some super tiny guppy fish for mosquito control.
I also like the idea of duck weed that you can harvest a couple times a week for nitrogen.
Wj Carroll wrote:From Permies Daily-ish: "Did you know Oregon State University has a free online permaculture course? One of the instructors is here on permies, asking for our input as to what "permaculture design questions/issues that we absolutely need to cover."
You are correct in stating that the Daily-ish Email state that it is free. Sadly I am 98% certain it cost $900 ($840+$60 for registration).
I will report the mis-match, and see.
For me building soil is:
2) Carbon: Mulch/BioChar/Hay/Straw/Rice Hull
3) Mineral: Rockdust/Sea90/Azomite/Lime
4) Inoculant: WormTea/Mushroom Slurries/Local Forest Litter
5) GroundCover: 80% legumes or 50% legumes for a pasture mix or 80% corn for carbon farming
So buying old hay and renting a U-Haul to bring it home might be an option.
The next would be to chop and drop. And for chop and drop I recommend the Bio-Intensive carbon farming way
We have to consider quite a few things.
Winter coldness aka USDA zone 4b.
And then probably even more important is growing degree day. When it comes to actually getting an harvest. Both for annuals and for regular food forest.
Trace Oswald wrote:I consider that excessively cold. I'm in 4b, and that is supposed to be -20F to -25F, but we occasionally get -30F or colder. Personally, I think that is pretty darned cold.
Trace I am with you. I grew up in the Tropics. I remember shivering on foggy mornings when it got into the 70F. Yes I was that that guy who calls Miami, FL in the winter cold. But living in New England, my views of cold have changed.
The arboretum is listed as between zone 5 and zone 4, so while cold it is not excessively cold. Like coastal British Colombia it get a maritime buffer effect.
http://www.nuttrees.com/edible-nut-trees/other-edible-nut-trees This Canadian Nursery has quite a few Walnuts, Pecan, Heartnut, Hickory and Chestnut that is rated for zone 4 and Hazelnut that is rated for zone 2. So there is quite a few options available for folks on this side of the pond. But I am supper happy that folks on the other side of the pond have resources available to them.
Up here in New England I grow the Chicago Hardy fig cultivar. I just leave them and they die back to about 18inches or so. They are very pliable and so if throw something heavy on it, they will bend down to the ground and there will be no winter kill. Now if I was down south with a 20ft tree it would be less pliable and not as easy to just bend down to the grown.
If you just leave it as is the tree will be fine, at the very least that is what I do with mines in New England.
Where did I plant so many garlic/chives/onion/leeks/etc.
The are green in the winter. I see them poking thru the snow, which makes me feel happy.
It suppresses "certain/bad" nematodes via the root extudates (allicin) esp when the nematodes bite the root.
They are edible and very little root competition due to how shallow it is and that it goes dormant in the summer and is active in the winter. You get seeds/bulbils/cloves/etc that you can spread and get new plants. Thye are easy simple gifts to give to people. I give it to kids all the time and they start growing immediately, which is great for there shorter attention span. I give it to people who are new to gardening and it can take pretty much any type of abuse and just keep on going, then they feel excited and start growing more stuff. You can easily get a bowl+smooth rocks+moss then stick a few garlic/chive/etc and make it a present.
I would call it something else vegetarian and struggling meat eaters, for a positive spin.
Always struggle with giving up eggs even though you are deadly allergic to it, milk and peanut (because we don't discriminate so we have to add the token peanut). Well come and join our community of self-experimenter. It is open to all, but we would like to create a supportive atmosphere for folks trying to quit animal products. It's like saying we would prefer no cigarettes/alcohol/weed in our IC.
As to how to make it more 'supportive'?
Gamification with rewards and demerits.
Age Limits, like for alcohol.
Extra Tax, like for cigs to help fund medical cost
Alot of cities ban farm animals (no roosters/cows/sheep)
I wonder what kind of stone you used and if you killed all the bacteria that was on it.
Or if the rocks from park (doggy park) inoculated the ferment and took over? jk
Most likely your ferment made you enjoy eating salad so much that you over did it with salad/fiber.
Then you also probably over did it with the good microbes.
And then to push you over the limit, the "bad" bacteria from the stone, did you in.
Any two by themselves would have been fine but all 3? Well just your unlucky number.
I like starting it with water kefir, milk kefir, kombucha. Then let whatever other type of wild yeast jump in and add to the mix.
I have been tempted for 2yrs now to try a koji(sake) starter. Technically it only makes sugar for regular yeast to feast on.