Either way, I'd set up a worm bin and maybe even look into bokashi composting. They are fun to do and it can't hurt to start composting the food scraps you already use. You can run the finished bokashi through a worm bin to get castings more quickly. Then top dress some window sill herbs with it. I use a system with two 5 gallon bucks for bokashi.. Don't buy the "bokashi buckets" - total waste of money.
I think you would be better off spending the time researching and learning every single aspect of what it means to build and maintain a proper permaculture, than to fire up indoor grow lights... Learn to store the crops you produce so they remain viable through the winter and into the next growing season. Design your future system by strategizing. Ask a million questions. Don't spend pointless money on a high electricity bill.
John Polk wrote:I would imagine that glacial rock dust would vary greatly depending on where it was mined from.
As the base rocks of the mountain change from region to region, so will the mineral proportions they contain.
Well, I was curious as to whether the glacial rock dust supplied by Concentrates was still Gaia's or another brand and if so, what the mineral composition consisted of. So, I went ahead and gave them a call, and was informed by their staff that their glacial rock dust is in fact still that from Gaia Green and thus, 100 percent of the same identical mineral composition. They weren't sure why the "Gaia Green" portion of the labeling was dropped, but were going to look into it.
Do you think it's from a different glacial source or are most commercial glacial rock dusts typically from the same location? Thanks. ps- I figured you knew what was up with concentrates, but I posted anyways in case someone else was curious:) Thanks for your insight.
Found this: http://www.gaiagreen.com. Is this a different site than you were referring to, John? Just wondering... That would be a bummer because their Glacial Rock Dust is a great product.. Does the alumina content of the Azomite seem really high to anyone else? Anyone know anything about alumina-silicates reacting negatively with fulvic acids? Basalt rock dust is also something to consider. Pamela, any chance you could test Gaia's Glacial Rock Dust? Thanks in advance.
This gentleman, Chris Killam, is an amazing person and has spent a lot of time developing a close relationship with the Shipibo... Really glad this is happening and I'd love to hear more of the progress. http://medicinehunter.com
In my opinion, it's all about your intent. If you're being egotistical about something that does so much good for so many people, such as Permaculture, then rock that ego. I think people who give you a hard time about your ego, should check their own. It brings far more good than harm in this specific case. I think anyone who complains about your ego wishes they were you, and that just sucks for them. Keep on keepin' on, Paul. Your efforts have changed my life in so many ways for the exponentially better.. Many, many thanks from the bottom of my heart. Namaste.
Stickin' to my guns and not changing a good thing seemed to work once again. JE, that suggestion is right on.
I did change one thing.. JE's post regarding oxidation got me thinkin. Animals who get nailed in nature probably don't smell forever and nobody used hydrogen peroxide on the Tower of Liberty. So, as opposed to cleaning them immediately as I have usually done, I let them sit overnight, to "oxidize". Not sure if this had anything to do with it, but they smell surprisingly good and usually the skunk smell sticks around for a bit longer.. But who knows, could have been a "mild" skunk...
Ingredients for 4 dogs, large breed, medium length hair: $25-$30 depending where you're going.
6 of the smaller sized bottles of 3% Hydrogen peroxide
4 Boxes baking soda
3 or 4 bottles (depending on size) Pert Plus or Dr. Bronners or some other really strong smelling shampoo/soape type deal.
Took each dog one at a time, put them in a harness attached to a rope and slung the rope over a tree so the tension on the harness was vertical. Started by wetting a wash cloth with the hydrogen peroxide, and wiping their mugs thoroughly. From my experience (8 or 9 times-ish, got hit myself once), the dogs usually take it point blank and this is a good way to chizel away at that. Next up, I take the hydrogen peroxide first and thoroughly wet them. The baking soda goes on next and gets massaged in with the HP. I lay the shampoo product down along their spines from the upper neck to the butt, careful not to get it too close to their ears, eyes and mouth- when possible. Massage that in quick so they can't shake it off, and quickly hit them with the hose so they get wetter. Massage everything in real good and let them sit there for a solid 5-10 minutes so the stuff works itself into their coats. Rinse them down and repeat if necessary.
24 hours later, after one of the above treatments per dog, and they are all back inside chillin out, 99 % percent smell free. We put peppermint essential oil on the dogs as a double up measure and that was also a great addition.
Next time, I'll hopefully have a variety of Dr. Bronners soaps on hand and probably use those. But if this happens to you at night and the only the places that open are the regular supermarkets, than pert plus is the way to go. The essential oils also worked really well. I'll stock up/try to make those as well. Anyone make essential oils?
Unless it belongs to the significant other, borrowing tooth brushes. Or sharing underwear. And not the nastiest thing out there, but about 20 mins ago my dogs got nailed by ye ol' pepe le pieu... anyone got a sweet permie tactic for the skunk war thats about to ensue?
Happened 15 mins. ago. Can't get supplies for a couple hours.. Last time my dog got hit, the word permaculture hadn't yet entered my lexicon, and "organic" was just about food ... hydrogen peroxide, baking soda and pert plus usually got most of the odor out.. Swapping the Pert Plus for Dr. Dronners makes sense looking at it now.. Anyone got some brilliant ideas, some-what quick-like? Thanks a lot in advance.
No doubt, Dave. My post was aimed at those just diving into this realm, in the event that they were considering using the non-plant materials you listed for extended, non-aerated soaks. I believe we smell similar good-funky-smells , and that our plants have similarly beneficial reactions to said plants based liquid fertilizers.
Here is a pic of my (non-hugel) garden bed, with completely unamended soil. The only thing I gave it was a 2 inch thick layer of thistle I chopped and dropped, and those same thistles (not dried) and alfalfa (dried) soaked in that 32 gallon for months-on-end in a bucket that I left there and never moved. Watered undiluted as needed. Worked like a charm. Free-er and easy-er.
I think the reasons not to use these materials are clear. The question comes down to whether it is more "beneficial" to simply throw them away, or use them. In my mind, with these paths being so drastically polar opposite, I would heed the warnings of concern. Using this material would inevitably cycle synthetic chemicals throughout your systems, slashing soil microbiology in it's wake, and ultimately giving you far more heart-ache than needed. Throwing it away would add some nasty stuff to a landfill or to the atmosphere via combustion. I'd say IF you were going to use them, use them STRICTLY on potted ornamentals and in no way apply them to existing outdoor environments, EVER. Once the plants die, I'd just compost them, unless there was some problem with composting plants grown using synthetic fertilizers? Allowing these synthetic fertilizers to be cycled through ornamental plants THEN discarded might alleviate the need for these materials to sit in a landfill (in their whole,granular,synthetic forms) for extended periods of time, and would not harm your soil, the planet (so much) and in turn, your health.
You could also kindly return them to your landlord..
From my experience, the smell in this case does not indicate a negative (using only plant materials and water). If you were to throw some raw manure, or even compost in there and you let it sit for a while, the possibility of breeding pathogens would certainly exist. When soaking just plant matter for 2 months and using it frequently as needed, I found nothing but positive effects. I do believe a concoction CAN be too concentrated, fyi.
Soaking horsetail (and other plants high in silica) in water for extended periods of time should give you a good extraction of silica/silicon. Dry the plant material. Chop as fine as possible. Use undiluted as a soil drench or foliar spray. Increasing levels of silica in your plants will aid in the strengthening of cellular membranes, giving PM a harder time to take hold. Good preventative measure. This site, http://www.usda.gov/fundinglapse.htm, though down due to the gov't shutdown, is a good resource for other plants high in silica/silicon. Diatomaceous Earth is 80-90% silica. Comfrey contains good amounts. Many rock dusts contain silica as well. Given how abundant this element is to the mother earth, it should be easier than not to source something locally.
Look up a documentary called Ghengis Blues, featuring Paul Pena. Simply amazing.
We saw the Alash Ensemble, throat singers from Tuva, right here in the middle of blue grass country...they were wonderful:)
they have played with Sun Ra and Bella Fleck.
When I get to the library computer I will look up Ghengis Blues. Thanks for your musical contributions.:)
Huun-Huur-Tu is the fellow thats helps the blind Paul Pena through Tannu-Tuva, a small country located south of China and North of Mongolia, which I believe to be still in Chinese control, featured in the Ghengis Blues documentary. The collective OM truly comes to mind..
I have been using DE in conjunction with neem cake to battle a root aphid infestation in a couple of my basil plants. The DE definitely works well at killing the aphids in the soil. It was also surprisingly effective at taking down some of the winged versions of these beasts. Thought I'd share. Is it messed up that I kind of enjoy watching them squirm?
From my limited understanding, and I hope this doesn't go without saying, but it's important to use organic pellets as the inorganic ones are typically made using inorganic binders. If I am not mistaken, the organic versions use molasses as a binder. Hope this helps.