Briana Great wrote:Is there a "small" rocket stove design that can be used to efficiently dump a lot of heat, rapidly, into a "typical" living area, for those of us trying to move from 3 to 4 on the Permies Scale? =)
Yes, there are lighter ones that you can build. Keep looking at the resources in the top post. Your other option is to reinforce the floor support under the location where you would build a RMH. That is not very difficult or costly, though you will want to stay with a smaller/lighter stove.
Yes, standard practice with lots of urine (collected in a jug) is to dilute it 5 or 10 to 1. Peeing next to plants usually doesn't hurt as long as rain or irrigation happens, and you rotate where you pee. I don't pee in the same place in the same month, but our dogs did and killed many plants.
Replying to say I found this latest thread of yours. Glad to hear that you made it to the nursery at The Draw, and that you will visit Mark's farm. His place is an excellent study in planning the land use and focusing on earth works before starting to plant perennials.
Hi Coydon, how are things looking now that summer is here? Did you finish the yurt? Or is there another thread for your camp progress?
We will be in Wisconsin for three weeks in July, currently in Michigan (lower peninsula).
Mark Persky wrote: I made a rocket stove hot tub and it takes about 2-3 hours to get ALL that water up to suitable temperature. On the plus side, it’s sort of like compound interest, in that the first hour or so the temperature doesn’t rise much. But as it warms and gets cycles back through the copper tubing buried within the cob, it’s fetter warmer and then hotter much faster. I use a laser thermometer and estimate when to stop feeding the stove.
Nice photo! How is the rocket heater set up/connected to the water in the tub? Is there another thread with information on your tub?
Sky Huddleston wrote:I didn't know that pressure treated was not allowed, the good thing is that I have recently secured a very inexpensive source of very tight grained white oak, which after long deliberation I have decided to go ahead and tongue and groove 1" thick boards rather than rabbet them, and then use dowel rods 3" into each side of the boards along the joints, and laminate in two layers of alternating grain direction to form a 2" thick door. This will absolutely minimize warpage due to seasonal changes and make for a door that is literally bullet resistant.
I am so glad to hear you are not going to build a 3" thick door. Would have been too heavy, and overkill. 2" of oak laminated of 1" boards will be plenty stout. I doubt that Paul would want to buy rigid foam board for an insulation/thermal break layer, but if there is some to be repurposed a 1" layer between the oak skins would make a big difference in the winter. Then you would have the additional step of banding the edge with more oak.
Next, you can use a water-base stain with some color (the more pigment, the better the protection). Other non-toxic alternatives are Teak Guard (easy to use, water base, does not form a surface film, easy to apply, has a burnt-red, almost maroon coloring to it), or any of the TimberPro finishes at the link above (made in Portland, Oregon and I have used their products on many projects) or Envirolast https://envirolast.com/product/envirolast-stain-and-seal-5-gal/ . Not inexpensive, however.
Dave Lotte wrote:i will not be using straight epoxy on an exterior surface again...
Maybe some fiberglass would have helped... it has been in use since 2019 though.
Fiberglass cloth would have helped some, but epoxy can't be left exposed to ultraviolet light. Best to epoxy it then paint it black or, better yet, add an overhang to protect the door from rain and sun.
Another way to get a black door and strengthen the epoxy (together with fiberglass cloth, which adds tremendous strength and surface integrity), is to mix in graphite powder. I do this for the bottom of my wooden boat, it stands up to grinding on a beach.
Also, plywood is not a good choice for the exterior skin. Lumber will not crack or check as much.
Trees are generally available during a short window when shipping and planting will most likely be successful. The farther north, the more true this is. Getting on the email list of a couple good suppliers is a way to learn their availability dates and when you can place orders early to get limited stock. I would also check your local county extension service because they often sell native trees at good prices, in quantity.
H Schweitzer wrote: We used a lamp fixture and extension cord with the can turned upside down (drilling a hole in the can to feed cord through, lid on the bottom because the groove on the bottom side will keep waterer from sliding off.
Do you put the waterer on top of the can? I understand that the light bulb is inside the can. Do you have a picture?
Yes, a designer who is a licensed plumber will make it easy for you. I don't know of one in Washington yet. I like the worm composting toilet system. I used one in Argentina and the vault didn't need to be emptied for years because the worms did such a good job of reducing the bulk of the fecal material. That system also diverted urine into five gallon containers, where it could be diluted with water and used directly on trees or other plants. A vault system can work year-round as the ground heat keeps it from freezing.
I've done lots of canoe trips with my family. Make your first trips easy-- connected lakes and rivers without a portage. The beauty of canoe camping is that you can carry plenty of good food and comfortable/less expensive equipment because you have plenty of room. Yes, at least a 17' canoe for a week long trip.
The advice to go in the fall is wise. Avoiding bothersome bugs is high on my list, and the water has warmed all summer. Warm enough to swim in the Boundary Waters (border of Minnesota and Canada). Warm enough in Algonquin (Ontario) and Verendrye (Quebec) parks in Canada. If the border is iffy, paddling in the Adirondacks is great. Sounds like you live in the mid-South?
The most reasonably priced ultra-light canoes I've found are from Slipstream Watercraft in upstate New York. We just bought two after doing a lot of looking.
Water filters are some of the lightest and easiest systems for water purification. I like the Sawyers.
Kathy Vargo wrote:Rockwood board is very hard to obtain in my area, NE US.
There are at least 17 retailers that sell Rockwool products in New Hampshire: Dealer locator Rigid foam board can be used of course, styrofoam being the least effective. Closed cell, rigid polyurethane foam is the most effective per inch and it is available now without blowing agents that harm the atmosphere. Of course, it is still a synthetic foam.
As Jason said, adding insulation on the exterior of the walls is an excellent way to make the house warmer in winter, and to take advantage of the thermal mass of the masonry walls both for cooling and heating. There are several ways to add insulation, rock wool or cork panels are both available to you I think? Then you must place a new waterproof finish wall outside the insulation.
The most important insulation is in the ceiling. A dropped ceiling will not insulate really, it will only reduce the cubic meters you must heat. But there is plenty of room above a lowered ceiling to add insulation, which can be inexpensive recycled cellulose or a similar loose fill.
Air sealing is at least as important as more insulation, and is less expensive.
Inside, a lime plaster will help with humidity. Is humidity a problem mostly in the winter or in the summer?
Yes, you can definitely use the existing chimney on the ground floor for a masonry heater or rocket stove. Both are more efficient than the alternatives, and both can have cooking surfaces as well as an oven.
In Alicante you have plenty of sun, and solar panels are less expensive now. I would move away from gas cooking as soon as you can with an electric cooktop for summer, and the rocket stove in the winter as well as an outdoor wood burning stove for summer (if there is not one already on the patio).
Collect all of the rainwater you can from the roofs! You can add to your system as the years go on, collect it from the main house also, and finally you will not need the municipal water except as a reserve system.
Congratulations on your land purchase and getting started, Coydon. We have friends not too far from you, on the Bayfield peninsula, who have a great permaculture nursery and a well-established homestead. If you get to visit, they might tell you their stories of starting out the first winter in a tent with fire for heat...
You can find them at: The Draw Nursery
Composting and recycling are the most obvious changes we made, years ago. Chipping tree waste was next. The biggest challenge that remains is packaging waste, especially plastic.
We shop at thrift stores for nearly all our clothing, so no waste there, but most things come in plastic of some sort and the recycling of plastic is being curtailed.
I have noticed that the smaller the business and the more progressive its owners, the less waste comes with a new product. I look forward to buying running shoes (which I do at least once a year) made with foam that is produced from algae. A friend works with the company that makes it and it is a net carbon sink, not to mention the algae harvesting cleans water and makes it healthier for aquatic animals.
We tried buying no food in plastic for a month. Very difficult, but it moved us another notch toward less waste. Cheese is very difficult to find without plastic packaging. I don't mind buying milk in plastic jugs because that is the most valuable and easily recycled plastic, HDPE. But our next step is to find a local source and buy on farm in glass bottles again, as we did a few years ago in Wisconsin.
The hidden waste is the transportation of products to me, so I try to only buy things made in this country, or state, or town.
Yes, blankets to cover windows when the sun is coming in helps but, just like your door showed, covering/shading window and doors on the outside is best. I stapled painting drop cloths over our east and west windows and doors, the biggest heat gains during summer because the sun is so high overhead it barely shines in the south windows. Permanent awnings that shade those windows would be a big help.
The original poster hasn't responded to any of these suggestions, lots of them good!
I don't think a radiant barrier placed on the inside of the roof will accomplish much. Keeping the heat out of the massive stone walls and roof is the primary goal. Whitewash is a very inexpensive way to start, I just don't know if it will "stick" to the roof tiles. It actually reacts with masonry to chemically bond to the surface, so if it will, it is a durable as well as inexpensive way to increase reflectance. Lime + water and a pinch of salt is all that's needed to make whitewash. We whitewashed our stucco walls in Wisconsin and it did a great job.
That's not enough though. Inside this stone house the ceiling appears to be the gabled roof. I would install a flat ceiling at whatever height, be sure the attic area above it is well vented, and insulate the new ceiling with 30-50cm of loose fill insulation. This is the single biggest improvement that could be made to reduce overheating, and to reduce the winter heating need as well.
If it is possible, insulation on the outside of the west, then the south, then the east walls would be the most productive order in which to proceed for improving interior living conditions. Likely to cost more than the new interior ceiling with insulation above it.
Bryant, this paragraph in the original makes more sense to me if I change the order of the sentences. Also fixed some typos:
There are, for the public, a number of concerns surrounding the use of arborist wood chips as a landscape mulch, due to a lot of either uninformed opinions or misinformation being circulated on the internet as well as pseudo-scientists putting out non-trialed theories.
Thanks for the thorough summary of wood chip info! I love them and transformed our entire front yard with 8-10" of wood chips.
Spring is here! How did your workshop do through the winter? I hope the spring edibles are up in your woods, and your permits are all in place for building that new home. What a beautiful part of Michigan.
This is minor in relation to the success this kickstarter is having: when I looked at the book title (without my glasses) I read it as "Skills to inherit prosperity," and I thought, "That's so appropriate, great title!" Maybe "Skills to inherit prosperity" could describe Mollison's Designer's Manual, because clearly the SKIP book has all of the great marketing it needs!
That is a big lot in Portland! We have lived in the Corbett and Westmoreland neighborhoods and are wary of the size Portland has reached, but established gardens with preserved land nearby is attractive as is the ground floor apartment. How close are the nearest farms? What neighborhood do you live in? How many square feet is the house? Do you have a garage or carport? Any solar hot water or PV?
Can any of you recommend an area/community where permaculture is being seriously practiced in the Pacific Northwest? We have just moved from the east coast, and are deciding where to buy some land and build a home. We'd like to have some permie neighbors! Oregon and Washington preferred, the wet side of the Cascades.
A positive religion supports and doesn't stifle an individual's direct spiritual connection with the guidance that is uniquely available to each one of us. There is unfortunately too much dogmatism in many schools, religions, political parties, parenting rules, etc. The problem is that tendency toward dogmatism, making rules for others long past the time when, as very young children, rules are useful for sharing a parent's best understanding of what will benefit her/his child.
Sure, it's complicated. But there are simple principles that can guide our living and our desire to respect others while being true to our highest sense of right. Jocelyn mentioned a couple: "the inherent worth and dignity of all people" and "the interconnected web of all existence." We're all in this together!
My wife and I were not involved in the same religion when we met and decided to marry, but a tenet common to both of our involvements was universal salvation-- no one lost or damned forever-- the Universalism of Unitarian Universalism.
It grieves me to see what passes for a Christian denomination today, as it grieves me to see what passes for democracy in a number of countries. Jesus' teaching and example still stand though, and I am glad to know so many people with religious involvements-- and with none-- who recognize that love wins, we're all in this together, and mercy trumps retribution. These good qualities and others, though they can't be seen physically except as the motive and purpose behind living well, are the essence of spirituality to me.
Mike, as someone else mentioned above, please don't use black plastic, an impermeable barrier, inside the insulation. Using vapor-permeable fabric will stop the wind and allow some moisture out, which is what you want. Someone suggested piecing the vapor barrier into each stud bay, against the exterior siding. That won't work, it should be as continuous as possible and taped at joints.
The floor: the cheapest step you can take is put down a vapor barrier of black poly on the ground. That will greatly reduce the moisture coming up. Instead of plywood attached to the bottom edges of the floor joists, use builder board/Homasote which offers much better insulation, is cheaper, and will make it quieter inside.
I have to agree with everyone who has said avoid kraft paper behind the interior siding. The best recommendation I read is to put up a vapor-permeable house wrap on the inside of the studs and then blow cellulose into the cavity, unless you want to spend lots of money on rockwool or recycled denim or natural wool insulation.
It sounds like it is cold enough to use an HRV instead of an ERV. You will get some humidity control, especially in winter. If your only humidity problems are in summer, use the ERV. You could add a passive ventilation system with a long 4" or 6" duct placed below frost line in the ground, a trick from greenhouses. Another humidity control is to put a 1-2" layer of rock wool or, even less embodied energy: Homasote sound board, behind thin wood paneling inside your metal shell. It will absorb moisture and later release it when it is dry inside. Nicer surface than the metal also!
Nicole, I did $25 three times when I had pledged twice. Oops! So put me down for $25 three more times. I really appreciate the purple moosages when a boot "rings the bell" as a reminder to make good on my pledge. Thanks Greg!
Those who use deep fryers, including turkey fryers, at home inevitably have used vegetable oil. Restaurants produce lots of it. I used to collect it for the biodiesel co-op in Portland, Oregon from small restaurants and bars who were willing to put their used oil in empty five gallon totes-- the ones the fresh oil arrived in.
Thanks folks for the use suggestions! We still use a deep fryer.