thanks to Karen Donnachaidh for her "daily-ish" reminder on aging. As I approach 60! my parents are on their journey to the end of this life as we know it. What I'm experiencing/learning from a dad that has fallen multiple times, attached to an oxygen tether because of heart issues, with my mom in full-swing alzheimers, is that the biggest need/expense is in full-time care. You can attest as strongly as you wish that "NO ONE IS GOING TO CHANGE MY DIAPERS" or help bathe you - but it might really happen. Which family member is going to step up to this challenge? Everyone must put front and center what it will be like to clean a soiled parent. SO: how to connect this to permiculture? I continue to push for communities that are M-A-G-I-C which stands for Multi Ability - multi- Generational - Inclusive - Communities. The vision I have is for a community that is farm-centric, with all walks of life living/producing/selling/storing/processing farm products. The difficult element is that this elderly population has high medical needs, which means a close medical center is needed. But where COMMUNITY comes into play, is that a full awareness that each one of us face the threat of needing full-time care. So include this into any intentional community. Some folks are made to plant/pull weeds/harvest; some folks have the ability to change adult diapers - and everything in between is needed. But how better to go through these years of adult diaper neediness than to be surrounded by a productive farm - at least you know where your food is coming from. I'm talking about dying with dignity. And if one's productive life helped support others' end-of-life days! ...that's what it's all about. Our productive lives need to help support those that need full-time support.
I'm interested in buying a core. If these have been built, can you post photos of the actual unit. I'm not sure what part the "manifold" is, so, along with this list of what's included, I'd also appreciate a list of items not included in order to construct a rocket-mass heater (aside from all the ducting and the mass, the roof/wall flashing, and the finish material).
no, I've never eaten spirulina.
One other detail: I made the mistake of quitting Allopurinol (the correct spelling) after being gout-free for a few months, and eventually gout came back. AND, it takes months for your body to get the Allopurinol set in your body before it does its job, so if you decide to try this drug you need to give it at least 6 months or so to do its thing. I now take a 300mg pill every other day. It costs pennys a day, and I don't detect any side affects.
my gout has been gone for years now, and I correlate this with three things: 1). I now take Alupirinol daily (which Marta has stopped being concerned about since there has been ZERO gout attacks since starting that drug. She realizes the horror/permanent damage that gout causes is much worse than side affects of Alupurinol. 2). I'm down to 170 pounds from close to 190 when I was suffering from gout. I don't want to test if weight loss is enough to stop taking Alupirinol. It's cheap. 3). I go to the YMCA 5 to 6 times a week with cardio (cycling) and pilates and yoga (with a sauna as a "carrot" to get me there). I hate exercising!, but if it means no gout, I'm there. I certainly know where you're at. [also, moderation in all plant-based foods. A quart of peanuts a week!!] Sorry for being so blunt, but your body will thank you if you ended those damn gout attacks. Good luck
We are nearly finished transforming a shipping container into a 2 bedroom, kitchen, bathroom bunk house with a separate office for the farm. Although we have considerable mechanical systems (solar thermal, graywater treatment, composting toilet), the benefits of the shipping container is that you can drop it onto your land and it comes completely weatherproof. It will take quite a lot to heat it as is, but you can slowly insulate the inside and not worry about the weather. Come spring you can start cutting out windows and doors. All that is needed is an 8 -foot timber on one end and an 8-foot at the other end 40 feet apart. Pretty simple foundation. If this is intriguing, I suggest getting the undercarriage spray-foam insulated while in transit - we had the container placed atop two others to easily access the bottom for the foam insulation. Some spray-foam materials are more kind than others,. so you should do your research, unless you are on a tight schedule, then use what's available. Insulation is the cheapest element of the process that has the most benefits. Don't skimp on it.
"Finally, vegan diets are good and useful and healthy for about 30 days only because they are detoxifying diets whose good effects are exhausted after that. Then they become slow starvation diets good for fungi, bacteria, and few animals."
So what should I be suffering from since I've followed a vegan diet for about 6 years?
My wife is a nurse that adamantly said NO! to allopurinol, but when it was between the downsides of this DRUG! and the harm of those mean crystals eating away at my joints, she is now a fan of the drug. But I still maintain the best route to take is to EXERCISE!!!, reduce weight, and drink LOTS!!! of water. Starting in on an allopurinol regimen is not always easy. This drug shakes things up and can cause more attacks as the uric acid is being mobilized. HOWEVER, the best wisdom is that every body is different. Try everything until you get your solution.
My uncle (on mom's side) and father both suffered from gout, which then was passed onto me. My first attack, about 12 years ago, was when I was a vegetarian and very active (played soccer often). I tried everything, even went to an acupuncturist. I would get an attack maybe three times a year. About 5 years ago I went fully vegan. This reduced the gout attacks tremendously along with daily exercise, LOTS of water and no beer. Yet the attacks would still happen (maybe once a year), but each time they got worse. Finally, I got on allopurinal, 300mg daily. Now I'm able to detect a coming bout of gout, at which time I slam a bunch of Ibuproprin and as much water as I can stand (which makes me have to pee several times at night), but I've been gout-free for years now. (One time I thought I was finished with gout, quit taking alloprinol, and soon had another attack). Before going the alloprinol route, try this: EXERCISE!, lots of water, vegan diet, loose weight. Good luck. Gout is something to get serious about getting rid of. Two fingers and a toe have permanent damage due to gout. (PS: don't exercise when you have gout. Those mean crystals will tear up your body. Drink lots of water to get things moving out of your body.)
If you're not averse to using plastic for the cover, there is a product I saw on-line the other day that is intriguing - "solawrap". It has more insulation value, more durable, easier to install than a typical UV-protected plastic. I have no idea how much more expensive it is, but I bet a lot.
The flexible plastic slides into a track that is attached to the hoops. This interested me because we are considering using small diameter logs to build a greenhouse. The problem I haven't figured out how to solve is how to protect the plastic from rubbing against the rough log surface. With "solawrap" the plastic never touches the frame.
when I was involved in log structures we often specified settling devices at each post - the wall heights would be monitored and the posts would be dropped accordingly by screwing down the settling devices (log walls settle due to shrinkage - log posts don't shrink nearly as much in length). With a WOFATI, it looks like the opposite is happening, the posts settle due to insufficient footings. Pound all you can, but you won't duplicate the forces that all that earth will put onto the posts. If there are not going to be footings then I suggest using post settling devices.
A design I will be testing soon is using a gabion basket as the foundation for a post. The stone spreads the weight more broadly than just the diameter of a post. Then the post will be attached deep into this gabion basket, with a steel plate on the bottom, and rods through grabbing the outside of the basket, holding the post vertical inside this basket. My goal is for a structurally sound post without using concrete. When I get drawings and a prototype built, I will share what I learned.
A suggestion: continue as planned to 'stucco' your roof, but place posts regularly through or around the roof to support beams / joists to create a permeable deck above the roof. This will relieve the 'stucco' of the requirement of having it withstand the live-load, which, as the previous posting stated, will eventually crack and crumble with the freeze/thaw situation you face. Good luck. [PS: I do, however, question the use of portland cement for anything (which, from your description, the stucco you are planning on using has portland cement). The manufacturing process of portland has quite a large carbon-footprint]
instead of trying to dig down to a warmer soil, how about using rigid insulation? I'm thinking something like what is done for shallow foundations in cold climates to reduce the use of concrete. There is a vertyical portion of rigid insulation that extends a few inches below grade, protecting the interior space; then a horizontal section, perhaps 18-24 inches that keeps the frost from driving under the protected interior space. The challenge is doing this in a curve to follow the tipi.
I believe the Solavore is bigger. There is another advantage I failed to mention: when cooking on a cloudy-ish day, and one needs all the sun that is available, the Sun Oven tilts to the angle of the sun, and the rack inside swivels to stay level. It is a good design for maximizing on the sun's heat.
We have a "Sun Oven" which I've seen get to temperatures above 350F. The mirrors concentrate the sun into the oven. It's truly amazing. One must be more vigilant with what is being cooked though. My garbonzo beans cooked and then started drying because I left it too long - but a bit more water/stock brought the beans back to life in no time.
Similar down-sides as it is plastic and holds about the same as the Solvare. It's also not cheap.
I would have to agree with John Rynne that a pressure cooker for vegetable stock for 99 minutes would be excessive. When I was involved in commercial cooking we would simmer the veal bones for hours. But flavor extraction from bones is quite different from flavor extraction from vegies. Try a batch for 10 minutes. I bet it's superior. Then try 5 minutes.
To many that may sound like poor specifications for a well, but it sure beats no water. I am very impressed.
Are you allowed to install a cistern on the Lab? That seems the only practical way to utilize a well with such low recovery rate.
I'm not sure, but after Cassie's "Daily-ish" stint ended there was a lull, but then the "Daily-ish" feature has since gone wild. Is there some sort of competition on getting Daily-ish" posts out, because my inbox is stacked full of them? I prefer a few good posts over mediocre posts every day.
I thought I could make the afternoon show, but it's not looking good. I don't believe I was included in Jocelyn's count, but either way, my impact on what you, Jesse, are offering was very limited for a vegan. However, the draw was to touch base with a fellow Missoulian, and a sip of hard cider. Perhaps that will be another time. Hope the Vandana Shiva events are fruitful. Cheers, Tim
When MUD was located in Missoula's North Side, the greenhouse had a thermal-mass system where the heat generated in the "attic" was pumped below ground through ducting. Unfortunately there was never any data on it's success, but it was understood that it needed about 5 summer's worth of heat pumped beneath the greenhouse to establish a new ground temperature. Like I said, there wasn't any data collection to verify this, but if it is true, WOFATI 0.7 has a long way to go to determine if the temperature of the thermal mass is rising. Perhaps the data collected should be in terms of months, not hours/days.
I certainly appreciate the purist approach to all elements in the WOFATI, but spending so much energy to use natural materials to weatherstrip the doors might be a bit silly. [every window in there has some sort of petroleum product in it] Using off-the-shelf weatherstripping and threshold to seal the doors seems to make sense. It won't require a master craftsman to install it. Pick up a couple used door knobs at HomeReSource to get a tight fit and you've seriously helped the situation.
Sure, there will always be elements that could be better, but this is no reason to not test the space in the interim. Put some statistics out there for 2015 - and then in 2020 you can see what was accomplished.
Some of the biggest challenges in both 0.7 and 0.8 WOFATIs is that there wasn't much slope. This causes a huge issue of excavation, and hauling in material to cover the structure properly. Also, getting proper drainage away from the building when there is no slope is another difficult issue. Oehler's tried and true (and cheap) examples were always on a slope.
A sump, in the way I used it here, is a void below frost that can accept a flow that then percolates the ground all winter long. The reason to "treat" the greywater prior to dumping into the sump is to use up the nutrients in the greywater (of course this would require the wet-land plants that "treat" the greywater to be in a heated space, ideally a passively-heated greenhouse space). Also, by "treating" the greywater prior to dumping into the sump means the effluent is cleaner and thus more appropriate to mix into the groundwaters.
I'm curious about the greywater system below the snow. This sounds interesting. However, what about the times in the winter when the ground is frozen and the snow has melted, or it hasn't snowed yet? A proper greywater system keeps the fluid away from direct contact.
Art Ludwig wrote:I have always been a big believer in the purification powers of mulch, soil, and all the stuff growing in it...especially mycelium. If anything can treat pharmaceuticals, petroleum, etc...that's it.
I quickly became a skeptic of treatment before irrigation., at least for low volume systems. I think having the mycelium as part of the receiving landscape is a fabulous idea.
I agree that during the growing season when the soil is not frozen the greywater should definitely be directed to plants, but in cold climates it is better to treat greywater prior to dumping into a sump that then penetrates the ground water.