I have experimenting with our layer ration (and meat a little) and want to be soy free. We only have peas, wheat, corn and barley to work with but can`t seem to maintain a high percentage of lay. If you are using a successful soy free grain ration, what are the percentages?
We add some skim milk and a larvae bin but we are farmscale production so can`t keep up with too many side things.
Alfalfa is not predominantly GM as is corn, soy, canola and cottonseed although it is still a large percentage (I believe 30%ish). It should be fairly easy to avoid, just check the varieties.
I have not had success broadcasting into open pasture. Very little of what I spread came up. Last year I spread in front of the cows and sheep. I will see this year if it was successful. I have also heard of people adding seeds to cow feed (ex pellets or grain at milking time). It should pass through the rumen undigested and be fertilized with the cow pie. Seems brilliant! Has anyone had success with this method?
For sure Roberto, the hot air will always rise and I can't stop that other than putting a ceiling fan in but my home isn't designed around heating air but rather heating mass. I have a masonry heater with huge thermal mass, thick thermal floor and log walls. I think it will be comfortable even with a lower air temperature on the floor level. I just want a way to exhaust warm, potentially moist air from the peaks.
I can't find much info on venting indoor air when there is no forced draft heating used. We will have a central masonry heater as our heat source and most of the house is vaulted so no attic. My concern is that there will a lot of stagnant air at the peaks of the ceiling if no vents are put in. Yet I can only find attic vents such as solar or rotary turbine.
Will these types let out too much air or look ugly from the interior? Are there any good low tech venting options for cathedral ceilings?
As I look for a finish for my log home, I find many natural options: linseed, tung, pine rosin etc but what concerns me is maintaining a breathable finish. Does an oil finish like linseed reduce vapor permeability to a significant degree?
On an interior wood finish, I would also assume an oil like linseed would reduce hygroscopicity.
Any suggestions from experienced biological builders here on how to maintain vapor permeability and hygroscopicity of a log home?
We have a source for $12 and being autosexing we can get all hens and only as many roosters as we need. It still is quite a larger investement vs more common breeds but like you say, our breeding program will provide all future birds and possible high value chick sales.
Breeding/genetics is the most exciting part of farming for me so looking forward to it!
Hope these Bielefelders turn out as good as they are hyped up to be.
Yes definitely trying to go at it farm scale permaculture! My wife and I will be trying to make our full income off the farm this year which we are a little nervous about. Never been bi-weekly paychequeless in my life before
Thanks for the geese tips! Looking forward to incorporating them
My goal is to make something mobile so that I can follow my cows. I find the eggs to be superior when they are able to pick, scratch and consume nutrients in cow manure as opposed to pasture only. They just wouldn't travel the distance necessary if my coop was stationary.
I like the idea of a couple geese with the flock for protection. Small predators such as racoon, weasel etc are my main concern. My ducks will most likely stay near my pond area and take care of the garden slug problem.
The main issue is making something large enough to house all the animals and making it mobile at the same time. Salatin's millenium feathernet seems like the best large scale option except that it is open and I would prefer something that I can lock up at night.
I saw this map before when my colleague Georgi Pavlov (www.HumaDesign.org) shared it with me asking my opinion.
Its seems clear to me that this particular contour map is a classic case of where the methods of extracting/making contours from GoogleEarth/Maps just doesn't work...they are inherently unreliable — you are much better off either getting a survey done or using the available county/state/federal photogrammetry or Lidar based data where possible.
Regarding locating the Keypoint – I can save a bit of time here by pasting in a few extracts from the recently released 2. Geography chapter of the Regrarians eHandbook.
Darren J. Doherty
Georgi was very helpful considering we didn't have anything solid to work with. I have priced out a professional survey and it's not feasible unfortunately. Also being in Canada, I don't have the resources available to U.S. like county contour maps etc. I do have an excellent laser level though so looks like I will be doing a lot of walking!
I have read the Geography chapter and look forward to Water!
When I spoke with Ron, he said he added EPS for cost and weight. Personally, I would rather pay more a pure mag board. He also adds fiberglass. I guess it makes it more appealing to people who want an affordable and somewhat natural material. He wouldn't tell me the % of EPS he uses unfortunately but I imagine it is a lot since he says his boards are 50% lighter than a typical mag board.
Yeah unfortunately I haven't been able to have any good observation during the wet season yet so trying to design without seeing it is tough. Kind of a catch 22 though because I want to design and plow before the rains come to capture it and get my trees in.
Dave Dahlsrud wrote: How 'bout a pond in that upper right quad near where the yellow contour line meets the road, you could do a 1% sloped swale from the upper left quad all the way across the property to feed the pond and increase the catchment for that pond.
I don't believe the water would be able to transverse the ridges nor the distance (1200ft+) to make it all the way to the top right, would it? Unfortunately the property was also ditched along the road so I can't capture any overland flow.
I think I know where you mean. Is it where I have marked on the map?
The thing with that spot is, although it is a change in steepness, it seems to go from somewhat of a valley to somewhat of a ridge if you draw a straight line down. The keypoint from what I understand should be in a well defined valley. There seems to be so many valley/ridge changes down a straight line of the slope that it's hard to plot anything. Very frustrating.
I did find a local supplier of Stafix so definitely going to use their 3:1 reel and energizer. I don't particularly like using plastic anything either but if these O'briens are going to last me decades, I figure it's worth it. If I wasn't going to do sheep along with my cows, I would consider a metal pigtail.
Yes that is what I don't want.. the cheap knockoffs. I plan on using them for both poly wire and tape. I wonder how the Gallaghers will hold out compared to the O'briens. With a price comparable to the knockoffs, I have my doubts. The O'briens seem so durable that I don't mind paying $4 plus a post.
I have read P.A. Yeomans books and others who use Yeomans concepts but all of the example maps they use make it easy to located the keypoint(s). With this contour map I don't think it is so obvious because the ridges/valleys aren't so nicely defined.
The two ponds and wetland I have at the bottom left of the rectangle is a nice water source but unfortunately it is at the low point of my property so will not be able to use gravity. My goal is to find the keypoint(s), and subsoil this fall before the rain comes. I want to soak the water in, and lay out my tree system on keyline because there is some erosion happening in the pasture.
The insulation, in this application, is considered the "chinking and the daubing" both. I hope it is a "mineral wool" and not a fiber glass or foam?
Good point. I will ensure they use mineral wool if possible because I assume they wouldn't.
Stone does not add strength per se, and the fiber is a synthetic either of glass, carbon, or nylon. Fiber re-enforced OPC has become more and more common in many areas. As you know, I dislike OPC materials a great deal, but if forced by circumstance to use them, fiber reinforce is the type I prefer.
Are these usually added at the site or in your experience will concrete companies add them before leaving the yard?
To actually build or form a functional podii system foundation one must start with bare mineral soil and build up from that with stone, clay soils and lime.
Interesting. I would have assumed that clay would have to be kept to a minimum for proper drainage. I guess some is needed to bind the other constituents together?
I don't think it probably is applicable with the slab already there. The more I read through this post, the more I lean towards a "do over," as that slab now is for a different building and different loads.
I am convinced after reading yours and Terry's suggestions that removing the existing concrete would be a good place to start.
Terry, from what I can see on the Helix Fiber website this is a steel product with zinc coating. Will this not eventually suffer the same fate as rebar/mesh in the longterm? Or maybe I'm looking up the wrong product because you mention it is a carbon product.
The logs avg between 11-12" so closer to 300mm. They don't actually use any "chinking" but notch a groove on underside of log that creates a weathertight seal and only add a little insulation.
That's interesting about the rebar/metal. My plan calls for reinforcement on all of the piers so I'm sure they would want a ton of rebar in them. What kind of fiber do you use in your mixes? If the problem with concrete is that it constantly holds water, wouldn't the fiber decompose? Does small stone added to concrete add any additional strength?
I like the idea of a podii style foundation but I am concerned with there not being any undisturbed soil underneath since I need to either bring fill in or move it in from the surrounding land to fill the existing hole. Do you think there would be an issue if the soil/fill type is right and I properly compact?
Sounds like an exciting project Sam. The coast is expensive and to get the land you are looking for, you would need to spend a lot more in most areas. The properties that size in your price range would be mostly forested which require major clearing.
My wife and I have started a similar project on the island, also inspired by Mark, Darren and others. Good luck in your search. Look forward to hearing about your progress in the future.
Terry Ruth wrote:It doesn't work that way. A requirement to get a building permit can mean ALOT of things. Call your city or county inspection office and ask what code is being enforced for single family residences, IRC 2006, 2009, 2012, 2015? Also, if they have excluded any Chapters or re-written them, or created their own building standards. For all you know they could care less what you build, they just want to know about it and get there little permit fees. Also ask if an Energy code IECC) is being enforced..
That will tell you what is being enforced at your state level that can differ per county, city, town. You may only have zoning codes.
If you are planning on loan talk all this over with the bank they will have inspections, appraisals. That is why I say building natural can come with a steep price in training and proving your build, unless you are way out in rural and paying cash, then noone gives a hoot!
Let us know so we can advise better.
I will have to look for Canadian versions of the resources you posted Terry.
My plan is to go in debt free so hoping to avoid the bank altogether
Where are the logs coming from? Who is going to lay them out and joint them? Do they actually have the skills, or is it just another "kit company?" What is the soil type? Does Kris have a tractor or other heavy equipment to make building this "time plausible" to the description of the project parameters? Is this current slab even capable of taking the massive point load weight of a log wall system and its interior timber framing without buckling or failing?
The douglas fir logs are harvested locally here on Vancouver Island. I am not using a kit company. They have been crafting log homes since 1975 and everything is done by hand. They will do lock up which includes foundation but that would just be a battle for how I want it finished so that is why I only want the log work done by them. They come to my property and set it up and fit it properly. I do have a concern of leaving the log set-up over our wet winter if I don't have time to get a roof on in time. Ideally, I would like to do a lot of the work with with family and use douglas fir from my land for roofing and interior but it comes down to how much time I have before winter. I may be pushing it for time but next year it will be all farm so I want to get something started this year.
I know there is clay soil on some spots on my land but I will ensure that the fill I use is from more sandy spots. I do have a small 36HP tractor that has been a workhorse since I took over the property. I wouldn't have gotten anywhere so far without it lol. I was going to rely on the engineer to ensure the point loads are carried sufficiently and maybe add additional reinforcement since you mention that OPC has poor strength in comparison to stone. Can the strength be improved significantly with a combo of stone and cement for the piers?
Terry Ruth wrote: Kris, are you being code or sub-division controlled?
Well it depends. Have I got a building permit etc yet, no. Am I rural, hidden and could I just start building whatever I want, yes. The main issue with avoiding code or inspections would be what if I get caught somehow. How is my place sold in the future without any record of house being built there. I couldn't advertise the property with a legal home when selling. I do plan on staying for life though, so the idea has crossed my mind several times. I also don't have the confidence with my limited foundation knowledge to just "wing it".
It may sound "mainstream" but I figure if I get a foundation down and my log plan set up, I can finish the rest with natural methods. I don't plan to use plastic barriers or toxic off-gassing materials in the build. I want to use mineral wool insulation, mag board walls, earthen floor etc. But I need a solid start first without a ton of labor because I am trying to start a farm at the same time.
I already have a plan so is this workable into a more traditional foundation or would I need to start over with a fresh foundation plan?
I wouldn't really know where to start with a stone foundation, that's why I was leaning towards a more modern slab. I am open to suggestions though. If I remove the existing concrete, where do I start? What is the best type of fill? I was hoping to just use low clay soil on the property. Can I follow the existing plan and just use rock/stone in place where the footings/piers are? What is the stone mixed with to hold it together? How is it compacted?
I see all of the pictures posted of these finished/old stone foundations but no breakdown of how they were created so it's hard for me to imagine. Is there any good diagrams out there of a traditional stone foundation?
I know concrete isn't the ideal material for building as natural as possible but I don't see an engineer signing off on something else. Drainage is definitely a concern of mine. I figured if I drilled enough holes in the existing, it would allow proper drainage. Maybe that's wishful thinking.
I was going to use Mag board for the walls but didn't consider it for the floor. Sounds like an option.
What are the issues with flyash, MGO, lime in the mix. Heavy metal content? off gassing?
I am looking for help/suggestions on a foundation that I am looking to do. I recently took over a property with a 10 year old concrete pad. It was originally destined to be a timber frame home but he never went through with it. It isn't a slab on grade as it is sunken 2-3 feet from surrounding land. From what I understand, it would have been the bottom of his crawl space. The foundation isn't really usable for another plan as it is compromised in some areas and the footings are in unique spots.
It is the ideal and only reasonable spot for our future home and we have decided on a log home plan. Our footprint is quite a bit smaller than this one. I had the idea of filling and then putting a slab on grade over it but the fill required, if brought in, would be quite expensive. Alternately I thought of pushing some fill in from my own land, compacting then pouring the slab. I want a slab on grade because we designed passive solar and I want the thermal mass of the floor.
Any thoughts or suggestions of what could be done?