that also makes sense in my case since the drainage for my system is marginal at best and a slight tilt could cause it to back up, whatever it is, as simple as these machines appear to be they are more complex than they seem, with more safeguards than I might have expected.
I had an interesting experience(s) with my spinner and for a period of time the spin cycle would not start right away, I would have to open and close the two separate lids several times and hit the side of the machine (often more than once and from multiple directions)and then whimsically it would start to spin, worked fine once it started.
But the whole procedure had me worried and thinking I might have to take it apart, disable safety switches...
Finally one day it was so uncooperative that I pulled it out away from the wall, getting ready to turn it upside down and work my mayhem with it and suddenly it started working fine, switch it on and it goes on, no hitting or multiple attempts, like new.
Only thing I can figure is it may have some kind of leveling safety switch I was unaware of, and it must have been sitting unevenly
or it's evil and sent by the devil to aggravate me
The link to my site shows more, but the first dsr had the exhaust coming out the side of the top box, with the glass cook top as part of the top chamber. I actually had two DSR iterations, one exited right and the other left with the glass cook top as part of the upper burn chamber. The exhaust exited in front to the side
The first post visible in this link is the latest build, which used most of the original build of the bells, water tank, etc which is more clearly visible in the older - second article at the bottom of the first
This is going to presume some special knowledge of the Double Shoe Box Rocket stoves and their iterations, so I apologize in advance if I don't describe everything thoroughly enough, or if I have fallen behind keeping track of recent developments. Please note that references to heating water assume you know all about steam flashing and the potential hazards when using home brewed water heating. if you don't know all about it, learn all about it, watch a few scary videos, and still treat that type of experiment with great caution.
I had a more typical DSR first, trying to include oven and water heater in successive bells after the initial combustion chambers, using a ceramic glass stove top and a stray piece of porcelain metal countertop over the water heater chamber.
That first iteration was a mess, a couple failures where pex tubing was too close to the heat, leaks of exhaust hastily plugged with wet clay, and a very shaky bell around the water tank in general.
Still, it worked more often than not, heated water and gave me some general experience with this new type of horizontal "riser", and then last year I decided to do a better overall job, and changed the design a bit, deleted the oven, and reversed the position of combustion and water tank, with a nice solid brick enclosure on three sides, poured concrete wall in back, and one and a half glass stove tops over the whole mess. The ceiling of the secondary (top) combustion chamber was still the glass stove top, and increasingly I started to use a ceramic fiber blanket to direct more of the heat over to the water heater bell. I bought a different IR thermometer that went to 1300+ degrees , and frequently that top would glow that brilliant amber gold color and scare the crap out of me, but it continues to function well to this day. Oh, I frequently was reading "HI" on the new IR showing I was over 1300 degrees.
Now we get to the fun part. This year, just a couple weeks ago really, I noticed several bright days in the weather prediction, maximizing my passive solar heating,and figured in a rush i could do the new design, the DSR2.
I always liked the idea of incorporating an actual heat riser in back of the primary combustion chamber, and by lowering the build about 5 inches in side the existing enclosure of the DSR I was able to add an interior ceiling to the top shoe box. So the combustion process continues uninterrupted forward to the exhaust from the top shoe box into the space under the glass stove top. The way I see it, (encouraged of course by Peter and the Donkey forums, this gives a longer /hotter combustion chamber and eliminates the soot I saw building up on the glass top if I were to put a pot to heat up on the stove top.
That dramatic reduction in temperature from direct contact with a pot, was similar to the loss of heat by the top radiating into open space, so really to get the riser effect of secondary combustion at all, the whole unit would always need to be covered with a CF blanket.. This new internal ceiling is like always having insulation around the whole shebang greatly improving efficiency of the stove, even while cooking.
One of the things I've noticed, especially with the stove door full open (another nice feature of the DSR2, is that rockety noise that got mostly lost with constrictions on air flow, p channesl, etc. Yes, I know there were some intense venturi effects after the port on the DSR, but with open air flow the DSR2 just burns more like the original J tube.
I can assure you, the push of the original J tube rocketl exhaust is alive and well. I used it for a couple years with no stack, but you're right, it is not always a given.
When I went to a batch box, I started having issues, and when I eliminated the riser in the double shoebox the push pretty much disappeared all together.
Don't forget, the riser not only has hot gases rising, but the outside of the riser has cooler gases falling. In my case I had a water coil around the barrel, so the push was even more pronounced. Insulation on the barrel would certainly make the push less reliable, especially once the stove got warm
Obviously, a metal stove is going to conduct lots of heat directly away from the combustion area , leading to the creosote formation from incomplete combustion. I agree that insulating inside the stove could solve that basic problem, with a few details taken care of.
I would size the batch box inside the stove to a diameter about 2 inches smaller than the metal stove exhaust to allow for an inch of ceramic fiber insulation around the bb exhaust, and that insulation should continue up to the minimum height according to the recommended riser length for that size rocket stove, and from there it should go directly to your bell or bench, whatever you plan to use to extract and store the heat. This allows the same exhaust pipe with the 1" cf to be used as a liner and expect temps to reach 1000F
note here that using a DSR might be sized to fit inside a larger metal stove and would eliminate everything external to the stove but the bell or bench. But be careful of the exhaust since that again would be much hotter than a normal woodstove-
The batchbox itself would be made of firebricks held in place by a surrounding matrix of clay mixed with perlite. (at least that is what I pictured- yes I have thought about this also.) The opening to the bb would be close enough to the metal door to close fairly tight with a layer of cf or perhaps even perlite clay fastened to the door.
Figuring out where to put the port and p channel/air supply would be a separate consideration depending on the design of the stove.
I offer these ideas only as beginning thoughts, since I have not yet implemented them, and am currently using a DSR, but the idea of containing the whole thing inside an existing wood stove has been quite appealing to me since it solves the door problem which is perhaps the trickiest part (for me) of any batch box build.
Well, thought I should keep things half way caught up here, I'm still around, still having fun,, although a bit amazed at the different complications the outside world has been throwing at me. The latest is a rich vein of gold that is currently being looked at by a pit mining/cyanide extraction type operation--Aston Bay-- and they are currently trying to get a foothold and permission to start.
Just got done getting rid of the pipeline, and now this--if you don't laugh, you cry.
So I just keep on going, having as much fun as possible (maybe the universe thinks I'm having too much fun:-).
My upper pond is full and overflowing occasionally , so far I haven't connected it into the major swale system that is in place, but that will happen soon, and in the meantime everything is protected ,out of harms way.
I keep talking about the earth tube, and have most of the materials ready to go, so that will likely start in the next month. The upstairs is ready to be closed in/ air tight, so the thermal siphon can actually make the earth tube functional as an air conditioner with no extra energy use or machinery once it is set up.
I have decided to spend this next summer starting an out reach program, involving others in using some of the garden spaces my pond excavations have opened up.
I'll probably be putting in lots of blueberries, but no extravagant numbers of diverse trees this year. My new greenhouse is lovely, so far still an experiment, but with luck it will start some plants in another month or so, nothing too fancy, 10'x10', about 100$worth of material--just a typical plastic hoop house, but for the little bit of time I put in it was certainly worthwhile.
Thinking about a bigger one with a pond inside it by next fall, TWT.
Raising koi has become more of a reality, 6 fish I got last spring grew to 8 inches in a small molded pond, and the success motivated me to build a liner pond with wetland filters and waterfall. Everything needs to be off grid, so currently 2 solar panels and one battery power a small 25$ submersible pump.
The two wetland filters associated with the pond (about 15' diameter) along with the waterfall should offer many different habitats, one plant I'm thinking about is wasabia japonica (75$/lb-real wasabi) It grows in flowing water, so either one of the wetland filters or the waterfall should work. I bought about ten roots that should get here sometime soon, so another grand experiment.
I have about 60 butterfly koi now growing out in the greenhouse, and another 9 butterfly koi growing out in an aquarium in the kitchen, and they will go into a setup of ponds that should prove quite nice. Sort of an expanded version of the system I used to grow out the small koi last spring, only the wetland type filter system will be used for them so I won't be constantly changing and cleaning filters, and should be able to get better water quality as well as helping plant growth. I'm especially interested in starting a good stand of horsetail, a very useful and medicinal herb-- often used as a pot scrubber, it is also a primary ingredient in Dr. Christopher's bone/calcium formula.One of those herbs I have been trying to get going for some time.
Anyway,bigger and better, keep having fun, and all that, I know my website needs work, but pictures and such at www.permaculturebob.org
I saw where this thread had a new comment, and since this was where I got the idea of linux mint, thought my experience might be useful
I had an older hp , and installed linux mint 19.3, and the main issue was the wireless drive wouldn't work. Spent time in the linux chat rooms, lengthy software craziness and still no luck, bought a couple random usb wireless drives with no real luck, although a bit more experience with installing drivers on the system might have yielded results, was told about a panda usb plugin (ebay for about 12$) and after a year using a network cable, finally have a laptop that works with wireless, that was a plug and play with no hiccups at all.
Since that I bought a refurbished lenovo thinkpad t550 16g ram i7 processor, high definition screen, and after a bit of fiddling with the bios (lenovo bios screen is different so I had to watch some utube tutorials to figure out the settings. I also figured out the hard way it wouldn't boot from the sd card, so had to plug in the usb drive--as it was booting,before the system was even installed it had recognized the wifi card . I had replaced the 256 g ssd with a terrabyte ssd, and the thing takes about 20 seconds to boot, seems much clearer to look at, and I installed the full version of the 2020 upgrade, so I can hardly wait to explore all the possibilities
So my experience would recommend Lenovo thinkpads the T series, and or the Panda adapter if you get caught in a trial trying to get LM to recognize your internal wi fi card.
I thought it would be a good idea to add a conclusion of sorts to this thread, although the idea of dealing with mega corporations invoking eminent domain continues elsewhere.
Our fight was successful, in the sense that we delayed the project with court battles long enough and the ACP /Dominion finally had it's moment of internal truth and sold gas holdings to Warren Buffet who agreed to pay substantial debts --likely from it's legal battles and numerous operations done anticipating the construction. Paying me a lease fee was one of them and The ACP has become a company with only the mission of shutting down and restoring disturbed land to it's previous condition--Warren did not buy that corporation..
The lease fee I was paid does not have to be returned and my land will not be disturbed by the pipeline.
Hi Bryant, I see this is an old thread, perhaps you might update your herb garden contents for us since you mentioned you were in the process of adding.
My "herb garden" is primarily wild herbs and is likely different because of location, the nice thing about natural cures is the best cure for anyone is the one found in their backyard.
I will only mention a couple additional herbs, red clover is one, easy to grow here, really more an ag crop then a garden herb , but when Dr. Christopher (founder of the school of natural healing) was asked for one word associations with each of 100 herbs, red clover was the only one he said cancer for. Red clover is a blood purifier, and since cancer is primarily a disease from environmental toxins, purifying the cellular environment reduces the risk of most cancers and can even help some cancer tissue heal and revert to normal.
I know the big C scares everyone into chemo, but the master herbalist that ran that one word association list, Richard Schulz, had a very successful practice when he taught at the school, and his experience taught him that he would not even work with anyone doing chemo. Since chemo puts a severe burden on the liver which should be working overtime to detoxify the blood in the first place.(The liver is the primary organ associated with cancer formation, since it's job is to clean the blood) The actual cancer may form elsewhere, but the origin of that cancer lies in it's toxic environment'
To that end, Garlic is one of the best liver herbs around--fresh and raw is best. that's an easy herb to grow with multiple uses.
The idea of a clean vegan diet just to live and maintain health was paramount, and mono juice fasting was also part of the regime..the three Dr. C preferred were carrot, apple, and grape, fresh squeezed, but Dr. C used to say more people had healed themselves of cancer using Welches grape juice than ever squeezed a grape. (sort of a light humor exaggeration of the point --don't get too obsessed with perfection.
One story told was of a woman with a breast cancer open and weeping, the size of a tennis ball, and the hospitals had not treated her since she had no insurance and was quite poor. Along with the diet, the specific herbal treatment used a shredded poke root poultice (don't take poke internally experimenting with poke on a non professional level can cause SEVERE vomiting-- I've read that chamomile is the antidote, but if I need to vomit I'd use a larger amount lobelia)) Poke has the power to draw toxins out of the tissues and is quite well known for this effect. The tumor shrank back down to golf ball size, was clean and no longer weeping but showed clearly several tendrils running off into the tissues. At this point they talked with a surgeon friend of theirs because they thought they could speed the healing if they could just get the golf ball out of the way, so he simply grabbed the remaining tumor , twisted and broke it free of the tendrils leaving a crater with tendrils running back into the body. They continued the poke poultice and the woman eventually was free of cancer.
So I would add poke to that list (an eastern US herb)
Which leads to another herb for the "garden" although I have yet to be able to coerce it to grow in my garden, is lobelia, which comes up wild where it pleases. While not a cancer specific, it has been used as a "lead sheep" in formulas, opening up centers of diseased tissue and allowing other herbal phytochemicals to penetrate more easily.
Thanks, I tend to agree , except for the idea that any fencing is invincible forever, so at the least it would be good to have a backup or two.
I just found an old piece of pipe, 10inches across and 6 feet long which should defeat an otter, but I'm not sure about mink since they are so much smaller. everything I' m reading suggests dye in the water for mink, and a two strand electric fence for mink and otter-one strand at 4 inches the other at 8 inches. guess it's time to get the solar fence charger a new battery.
What happened to your older koi , I never think of koi dying of old age, weren't there babies to carry on the tradition?
The barrel does sound like a good idea, similar to a built in pipe "cave" I have in mind. how big are the holes in your barrel? how deep is the pond? Is the water clear or murky?
How did the eagles defeat your defenses?
I have a bigger mud bottom catfish pond, and predation seems less problematic there, but for now the pond is young, and putting young koi in there just ends up as bigger catfish. The pond stays pretty murky all year, which may be why the mink didn't just clean it out
I am building a new pond that will generate a fertile wetland as a filtration system. I plan to stock it with Koi etc,and have seen evidence of mink/otter predation in my other mud bottom ponds, and am planning to put in a fish cave as part of the construction.
Knowing how capable mink and otter are in the water, I'm curious if anyone here has any advice /experience, at whether the typical fish cave approach will keep fish safe from these predators..Or would some specialization of design be in order? IE how small, long, tight bends in pipe cave construction, etc etc.
Mink will likely be the main issue, but some otter might show up in time.
I haven't installed the liner yet and the pond construction could have all sorts of preventive measures built in.
I agree with the differential heating idea, With gaps in the bricks you are asking those bits of exposed metal to radiate more heat than the covered sections, those bits will also cool faster possibly causing warping or cracking.
Clay is a real easy effective alternative, use the bricks where they will receive the rough treatment of wood being shoved around, and mold the clay in places where it's receives less rough treatment.
The nice thing about the clay is it's easily replaced or repaired,
Yes, welcome, knowing you want a change is the best beginning, before there is a catastrophe and you are simply being swept along with the flood.
This is certainly a good place to start and develop friends and possibly even find the situation that suits you. In the meantime, save your money, develop your skills and keep your eyes open.
I would be looking at Permaculture courses, some are free online, and develop a new way of organizing your knowledge
There are so many things going on here, it's nearly impossible to figure out from a designers point of view, exactly how to approach this. First of all, 9 feet deep doesn't tell us anything about size and volume. How many fish are we talking about? what are the zoning/permit requirements? How big is the dam? did you ever see the pond empty? How much property downstream of the dam do you own? what is located downstream?
You say the dam "appears" to be concrete--if you are unable to say for sure whether it is concrete or not that may be an indicator that you need greater expertise on the scene to evaluate this dam as to whether it is safe enough to keep full.
As was already mentioned, the beavers may be able to save you by taking pressure off the dam. Depending on the situation, if the beaver dam ends up deep enough you may be able to let yours dry up and transfer the fish to the beaver pond as your water level goes down
I do understand not wanting to get into a big project (replacing the dam) while still wanting to maintain it with a quick fix, I have enough to do that is my first instinct as well, but don't let expediency end up costing you heartache, you may lose the fish and a great deal more.
If you still want to ask for diy help here, pictures would be good, overall dimensions, situational details as well. At 1 foot per day loss,that means a muddy hole in about a week this sounds more serious than beavers blocking the flow of water.
chewing on a raw clove of garlic is the best way to get the most power out of the garlic, my method is to have a mouthful of water, then pop the clove in and chew away with the garlic basically underwater. There are different phytochemicals that are released when the cell walls are broken and then combine to form the most powerful antibiotic in the garlic--this is only active for about twenty minutes after it is formed, so stored extracts may be good, but fresh and raw is best.
Also honey once it is diluted does not necessarily last forever, it is the concentrated sugar solution that creates osmotic pressure rupturing bacteria cells and molds that find their way into the solution--witness mead, a ferment made with honey. refrigeration is likely the best bet for the ACV honey dilution, keeping it cool will likely make it last a longer time also. Note there are some bee venom compounds in honey that help protect it, but primarily it is the concentrated sugar solution.
Garlic is also good for cholesterol and general liver function,, not to mention it is antiviral--one of the more powerful antiviral herbs
I actually don't remember anything about a 4 bay system or 4 years, from the humanure handbook, that would certainly work ok with vermicomposting, and two years is the generally accepted time for stuff to naturally decontaminate itself without any special attention. i will recommend that wherever you put the piles, make sure they are isolated from the rest of the environment so heavy rains or stray animals don't scatter the stuff prematurely.
I know there's more to it than just this, but i found this quite informative about so many details of safety, origins, etc etc.
The purpose of cloth masks is not to prevent you getting covid, it is to prevent you spreading it unknowingly.
surgical masks protect the patient from the surgeon, the n95 mask with an air tight seal protects you from the environment.
This disease (another sars virus) is worse because it has an infectious period of several days before symptoms are noticed, allowing it to spread more widely. Thus the primary usefulness of masks is as a courtesy to others just in case you are carrying it and don't know it.
Of course the cloth mask may help a little in protection, but in my view all the hand washing and sanitizing, careful handling, etc etc is a mostly unnecessary level of complexity. By the way, the covid virus mostly only survives a few hours outside a host, but can survive a week on a surgical mask (read the link above)
I have heard that kelp foliar spray on corn helps corn produce it's own defense against some pest (corn worm maybe?) , so it seemed reasonable that it might be useful with peaches as well, but I have no experience yet, so thanks for the heads up about the conflicting findings on whether it works or not.
We had a dry winter so maybe this will be a better year
I agree with Jay, that shortages because of extra demand do not represent some evil government or corporate plot.
There is a lot of fear about a true Fascist government style takeover , including me to a certain extent, I'm watching this current government quite closely, and more worried about the next election (or lack thereof) in the name of Public health. But I don't see the shortage of seeds as part of that, or changing the venue where seeds are bought and sold, and people that jump at every little thing as if it was TSHTF only make the situation worse. How many people bought seeds they will never use purely out of fear?
I'm glad Jay included the warning about only eating the older comfrey leaves, since plants like comfrey tend to protect themselves in early spring with alkaloids (somewhat toxic to the liver) that fade as the plant produces more and more larger leaves.
I like the ideas of both being able to do traditional gardens, and being able to identify those wild foods that are always there in an emergency. Even better when you can find those traditional veges that will reseed themselves, spread around., and self garden.
Perennials also are a must, and I've noticed they don't hang around long in the nursery any more, but really, that's a good thing, it means more and more people are getting serious about being free of depending on the supermarkets for everything.
Notice that when he shows the picture of the seeds wrapped in plastic with the notice, the notice clearly directs those interested to go to the online store to purchase the items. He does not modify the scare that governments are deliberately starting a food shortage, with the obvious fact that seeds can still be purchased , you just have to use a different way to shop. That is fear mongering.(IMHO)
So if anything, I thought the comment she sent is born out of paranoia of the government (often with good reason) but that spark was being fanned by fear mongerers who take local aberrations and turn them into national disasters.
I only replied to her that things were still pretty normal- business as usual here in VA, although that's not exactly true, cause our local store doesn't want you walking around in the store itself, but they will get stuff for you.
I have not noticed any banned areas in walmarts or the big box diy stores, and seeds may be sold out, but not banned for sale.
Of course, come to think about it, seed packs would be a likely way to transmit the virus when i think about the normal way I might buy seed, cause I spend a lot of time browsing, reading individual packs and then putting them back as i look for the ones that are just right--lots of places for casual contamination there. And i have enough seed on hand that I probably won't buy any this year anyway.
Thanks for the tip, I had no idea the Nature Conservancy offered others that sort of help, My own efforts were put on a back burner with so much else going on, but I'll make an initial contact and see about getting the ball rolling.
I have seen so many references to taking Vitamin C and feel I have to speak out.
1000 mg of vitamin c is not a harmless supplement, in that purity and quantity it is a drug. What I was taught in my master herbalist class was that vitamin c in that dosage without the bioflavonoids normally associated with it in nature becomes a mutagenic agent.
A "truly natural" dose of that magnitude with the bioflavinoids would be the size of a golf ball (or more) staying close to the RDA somewhere in the neighborhood of 1 -200mg does the body good, more than that. who knows?" vit c and cancer
Intravenous vitamin C may have some anti cancer effects, large doses of Vitamin c orally may mitigate colds, but the body can only put so much vitamin c into the blood stream anyway--about what you'd get for 200mg orally. More than that becomes expensive urine.
I was told Linus Pauling's wife was doing 2500 mg daily when she died of stomach cancer
In short, be careful with vitamin c, the actual research is shaky as far as positive effects, and in one of the most recent experiments with terminal cancer it seemed to shorten life span slightly.
There are so many things out there that have been engineered (by nature) to really do our bodies good and balance us out in emergencies, I would much rather rely on them than something out of a lab.
Oh, and I forgot one ingredient in the quick anti plague recipe I gave earlier, the amended recipe is strong(not sweet) onions, garlic, horse radish, ginger, cayenne in a vinegar extraction--use it as a salad dressing every day. If one ingredient really puts you off, leave it out or minimize it, there's lots of good anti viral, anti fungal, anti bacterial agents there to go around several times. (also liver tonics, circulation helps, etc etc)
Thanks for the thought, realtech wifi cards are a problem for linux and require use of a windows driver somehow integrated into the linux system--it has been a general problem with hp laptops. This particular one is about two years old hasn't been used much, when I first bought it I started to do the windows install, and it had wifi working at that point, all I've changed was the hdd to a ssd although at one point I looked into replacing the wifi card with one more compatible with linux, but it never got any further than ordering the wrong card and then being forgotten by the supplier who promised to look for a compatible one.
I found one post on the mint forum that talked another guy with the same driver problemthrough to a solution that installed the windows driver as per the instructions, and I'm reasonably certain I did it right. but there are a couple variables that may be glitching the thing, one is finding the right antenna and the onter may be a slight difference from one real tech card to another, a matter of changing one letter in the commands, but like I said, it's a learning curve I'm still at the bottom of.
I do have a little usb wireless adapter, and theoretically have downloaded the drivers, but that is where my knowledge base ends. I have no idea how to tell terminal to install the hardware or the driver, although the forum likely has that information somewhere, I just need to find it.
I'm a little like your friend, I'm happy with this wired connection and a long cord. I may even take another cord into the other room so I can move back and forth--twt. In the meantime I'm also surveying the property, arranging for a forest mulcher so I can extend swales, and getting the place generally presentable so I can host Permaculture Classes.--not to mention gardens, perennials, fish.... what I mean is that this computer is way down on my priority list and I'll just do a little here and a little there--maybe I'll just get another computer with a friendlier wi fi card, put the other hdd back in this one , swap this ssd into the new one and then rock on. I hear lenovos are pretty compatible.
I took what seemed to be the best advice here for my needs and reformatted the zorin with the new tricia- linux mint with the cinnamon desktop, and the same issue of no wi fi is still a problem,(although it did recognize the bluetooth immediately on installation, so I think I can use it with my phone as a hotspot.) but I have been working with a network cable just to get the thing going and generally am doing very well.
I found zoom and linphone as substitutes for skype, both included as part of the original install, and activating them was easy
The mint support forum is awesome, and I found detailed instructions for a realtech wi fi card like mine, but so far no joy,
the learning curve is still there for the finer points of terminal commands and such, but the windows aspect is pretty straightforward and the other advantages can wait till I have time(and inclination) to play with it
I hate Microsoft, and I'm grateful for this alternative--I even switched to duck duck go as my search engine to avoid so many ads and of course personal information collection which google is well known for. The fact that firefox was preinstalled was also a major plus in my estimation.
Hi, I'll just mention geopolymers, search the donkey forum, there's loads of stuff there Karl is a primary expert, but there are several others playing with them as well. Interestingly enough, your original clay ash formula has many of the ingredients of geopolymers in a somewhat more primitive form.
Let's start with the history of disease and move through to modern ramifications of factory farming Pandemics---This is a long video (1hr) but it is full of all sorts of useful information.
Next, if you are buying herbs over the counter, be aware thatmost of them are bogus. herbal fraud I mention this because with something life threatening even a well known herbal treatment will fail if the herbal supplement is weak or bogus. here's a blog on the same topic labeling fraud.
Echinacea is partially an anti viral but don't use it as a tonic everyday. It has a unique class of harmless sacharides that mimic viral coats and turn on the immune system--but the immune system will start to recognize these as harmless if used over longer periods of time.
Echinacea is a very easily recognized tincture--- If it doesn't make your tongue tingle and go somewhat numb, it's worthless ----find a quality or home made one that really works if you want more than just a placebo effect. Use this if you believe you may have been exposed. There are both glycerin and alcohol extracts, and teas will work to some extent, all parts of the plant are possible to use, but the root is generally the most concentrated. Tablets or capsules are a very poor way to use this herb in my opinion, but crush the tablet or open the capsule if you must use this form.
Dr. Christopher had an "anti plague" formula that was complicated and time consuming to make. It is probably the most effective one still out there ANTI PLAGUE FORMULA
Here's a simpler formula, just about as effective-- strong yellow onions, garlic, horseradish, cayenne,, blend them all up in vinegar and put them on the counter and shake them every day --A dark jar to prevent light is preferred-If it's still there after two weeks (ie: you haven't used it all up as a salad dressing,)filter out the coarse sediment --- I use cheesecloth or a paint strainer cloth--
add other herbs to taste and make your treatment/prevention fun as you're eating your kale, lettuce, etc fresh from your garden
I know this has been said before, dairy is one food to avoid at all costs if your lungs are filled and you are having trouble breathing, not to mention the fact that dairy proteins are primary in confusing and misdirecting the immune system. Water, whole fruit and vegetable juices (with fiber) are the preferred nutrition during treatment of any disease.
First, I am not a primary expert, and you need to be prepared to look at species of trees, their possible diseases, pests, needs.
Most fruit trees don't want any grass for instance, so you'll want things like comfrey, daffodils, etc to totally occupy the space under the trees eventually. things that contribute to the soil, repel pests, but don't rob the tree. Fennel is supposed to be good for predatory wasps for instance.
Chickens are great at pest and disease control, I think the ratio is 60/acre, but only after the trees are grown. How will you keep animals away from the young trees? Your swale type plantings look good for water distribution, and flood type irrigation is a great way to go, but if water is scarce you may need to find an alternative method to localize watering under the roots of the new trees, surface watering creates shallow root systems whereas deep water encourages deep roots. (this isn't as important if you start from seed.)
Since you are on a fairly steep slope there you might consider a net and pan type system to establish your trees.
You will also want to consider how to mulch to create a better fungal dominance in the soil to speed the transition from grass to trees. And the idea of conditioning the soil for a year or two before planting trees can really help the trees to do well when you do plant them.
Sorry I don't have time to add more details, but I really have to get moving now. Hopefully others will add to this.
I'm going to say something generally unpopular in the broad population, and i won't get into a big discussion, but if you haven't eliminated all animal products from your diet, that would be a good place to start and most likely a cheap effective cure.
as far as intermittent fasting there have been some interesting studies--webpage
note this is one article, with several other related studies mentioned there as well.
Here's another link about treating HBP with diet webpage
I saw many people mentioning osage orange, but here in zone 7 Hardy Orange grows pretty well webpage
The fruits are like small sour lemons with tons of seeds. Put the fruits in a wet pot outside over winter, by spring each fruit will have 20 or 30 sprouts ready to separate and grow out directly in the ground. They start putting out thorns immediately, which limits browsing and once grown nothing gets through them. They reach a height of about 15 feet when allowed to grow unmolested, but be careful when planting near your house, they will need to be cut back often.
The fruit looks like a small orange, and can be squeezed for a nice vitamin c rich drink like lemonade
One technique used to protect young trees, bushes, etc is to leave a tangle of branches, especially thorny ones, around them, this will keep out deer and many other animals, also of course bone tar is a good way to keep away critters. the easier equally repulsive potion is a mix of sheep fat and egg white powder that turns pretty nasty pretty quickly, wear gloves and use it fast cause you won't want to be around it the next day.
there are lots of possible strategies that can be used when thinking about orchards and surrounding plantings.
Remember that there is a time element involved and lots of the soil builders will be gone by the time the fruit trees are full size.
In the beginning you could have all the trees spaced very close together, then start to chop and drop your soil builders as their drip lines start to overlap and they start to compete for sunlight. Every time you cut growth above ground, roots below ground also fall off giving nitrogen and creating more open space in the soil. As the trees increase in size. eventually you might expect all or most of the original nitrogen fixers to disappear as the chopping and dropping becomes more intense and the productive trees start to shade out everybody else.
You didn't specifically ask about it, and maybe you already have some grasp of the dynamics of ways to plant to maximize resistance to pest invasion, disease control, and water distribution, but these things are also important to the process .
When planting small anythings, it's easier to cut out extra trees than to fill in if there aren't enough, so plan to overstack your system. Then it's just a matter of looking at the variety you're planting, the suggested spacings, and then lay out the grid.
Cris Bessette wrote:Christmas LED strings generally do not use any rectification, they simply put the LEDs in series to drop the current and run them on AC
(The LEDs are only on during the positive going cycle, thats why you can see a 30hz flicker)
How would current drop by adding bulbs?, I think what you meant was what I said about adding enough leds in series to match the 120 volts of the ac supply. generally multiples of 30.
I never cut them open to check, but most(all?) of the strings I've played with seem to have a solid molded plastic bit attached just after the plug and I assumed it was a cheap mini rectifier circuit. Since leds are all diodes anyway, adding 4 more in a rectifier circuit would seem to be a minor thing and give twice the light.
I admit that i've never checked the voltage past that suspicious plastic to see if it was ac or dc, sounds like a good project sometime, would pulsing dc show up as dc on a cheap multi meter, cause I don't have an oscilloscope.
I don't think I ever put my two cents in here, but I have watched with some interest, although not all posts, just a few here and there occasionally that caught my eye.
I'm mostly going to share my experience with 12 volt leds.
They are cheap--2 watt light bulbs about 20-30 cents each. If you wire raw leds yourself you can get really long life, but it's a hell of a lot more convenient to just accept the pre wired bulbs --plug and play.
They don't last forever,but they do last a long time and with no inverter to waste power they are perfect for off grid applications.
I saw reference to wire size, off grid here means no inspector, I frequently string up 18 ga wires to run a 12 volt low watt system with no issues.
Even with several 2 watt bulbs (each equals about a 20 watt incandescent) I rarely am drawing more than a couple amps--14 gauge may be code for ac, but dc uses stranded wire and overall smaller diameter. I could use solid copper wire but it would be highly inefficient.
And maybe someone knows more than my observations, But I spent a lot of time playing with christmas leds that plug into 120vac, and never found a "driver" circuit anywhere-- I think all they use is a diode circuit to rectify the current, and then do a series wiring with the bulbs to match the 120v.
If you have an old christmas led string that has failed, most of the leds are probably good, 4 in series is a 12 volt string, and will last almost forever.
3 in series will be brighter in the same 12 volt application, but will fail sooner.
I have heard that domestic animals are more vulnerable to predators generally because they don't learn normal defenses, chickens of course are very mutated and specialized and only a few breeds could fend for themselves escaping predators.
Guineas are likely better at resisting predators and when my flock was still around they once stopped a fox in it's tracks, just standing there, sort of a face off with about 20 guineas shouting at the fox across a 20 foot gap . A big dog would have just run at them and ended up catching a few before they got away, but the fox seemed uncertain what to do.
They will form a ring around a large snake and sometimes kill it, and I have noticed my very tame guinea definitely has a combative streak, but in the wild that would likely just get her killed mostly.
Living in a coop, they are easy targets if something gets inside with them, and in small numbers in the wild they usually suffer enough predation to disappear after a few seasons, since guineas are ground nesters and extremely vulnerable at night. So reproduction is a real challenge at best.
Thanks for those studies, it's good to see some work is being done
Despite the evidence suggesting potential pathogen destruction
during the vermicomposting process it is still best to use
caution when dealing with materials such as manures and sewage.
Part of the problem is that even if the passage through the
earthworms' gut IS destroying these organisms, how can we be sure
that all the material has in fact passed through a worm? Even in
the most efficient systems there will undoubtedly still be at
least some unprocessed materials.
I'm guessing you noticed the Denali project was limited to e coli and choliforms
and both the other projects used or recommended additional sterilization methods either before or after the worms did their thing, the quote above from the long pasta pretty much sums it up.
It's important though not to get too caught up in Fecaphobia, and I will admit that even with hot composting the system is always open to some human error. The small pile ( 1cu yard)method with turns, requires every bit of the pile get it's turn in the inner heat, and even the large piles Joe uses need care in the beginning, although as that pile grows it is easier to make sure the new stuff is totally engulfed right away.
Like I said earlier, I like worms, they are magic, I have an active worm bin in the corner of my room, but they get food scraps--and outside they invade the compost when it is cool.
But if worms are the only method then the two year rule still applies,, and like the wheely bin project recommends, that product goes to shrubs and trees not garden food plants.
It would be good to see a study comparing hot compost vs worms with pathogen destruction
Even though I'm advocating here for hot compost I would rather use worm bins if they were as well researched.