John Weiland wrote:Does anyone know if 3D printing is, in any way, being fused with plastic recycling? I recall a thread some time ago about some movement and machinery that melts and re-molds plastic for new uses. Is there a 3D printer concept out there that has envisioned using waste plastic as a raw material that could be liquified and used in the printing?
You might be thinking of precious plastics. They developed a DIY shredder and injection molding platform. webpage
Now 3D print can fit in this realm as well. But that is based on the material used, like PETG or PEEK. The most common 3D plastic is PLA. PLA is a plant and starch based bio-plastic. PLA is recyclable and there are recyclers that make new filament out of the old prints. PLA will also break down in UV light ever so slowly, like say 100+ years.
Oh I don't know. When a building is built who do people remember -- the architect or the contractor? Everybody knows Frank Llloyd Wright. Anybody tell me who built FallingWaters? The point is the idea has always been pinnacle of what defines humanity. The effort to make it real defines its depth.
Dustin Rhodes wrote:I just learned my local library has a 3D printing lab - not sure what costs are associated with it(if any).
I don't know if i can think of any products to make for homestead use or sale, but I definitely would use it to craft custom Christmas ornaments,or design toys for my kids - so it's a savings from having to pay someone else to do it(in certain cases).
A roll of filament (generic PLA) is about $20-25 per kg. Some of the fancier stuff costs a bit more. My Cura slicer will tell me how many grams of filament is required so I can estimate the cost pretty closely. I usually estimate at 3c/g.
Most of my efforts right now for 3D print is for repair items around the home. For Example:
* Picked up a meat slicer for $4 @ garage sale. He sold it because the washer that holds the blade tight to the shaft was missing and it wobbled. Made model, printed, mounted and now I buy my lunch meats in bulk and save $$.
* I have made spare keys by printing them. (Moral, never let anyone take a picture of your keys.)
* Made a new gasket for the neighbor down the way 3D printed.
* Right now I am printing out net cups and end walls for a nft unit I am constructing.
* A random hook to hang tools in the shop.
Love NiFe batteries. They last forever and have a forgiving maintenance requirement. But they have to be matched to your application. They have a lower discharge rate than LiOn, and are quite heavy in comparison. But that service life, nothing beats it.
* The greatest achievement that anyone can do in my mind is to find a problem and solve it profitably. Only by doing so is the endeavor self-sustaining. To compete, win, and serve ones customer base with kindness and fair dealing is much higher level of effort AND fulfillment than any NGO can achieve.
* Most non profits are 'beggar thy neighbor' and are not a self-sustaining entity. eg: They are not permaculture aligned.
* You can find bad actors in either bunch but it beggars the mind that given most non-profits have high minded goals that they would use the subterfuge of fraud to advance their aims.
And now for a personal vignette that forms my view of NGOs. The company I was working at at the time had been approached to help with a technology fair at Boys Club. I threw my hat in the ring. BC sent a bundle of papers for me to sign. Several were authorization to a background check. Did not mind that, I would be around kids. If I was a parent I would expect no less. But one of them caught my eye. It was a 3 page doozy that essentially said that I could not sue either BC or any of their authorized agents for anything they do with the information provided or any other activities associated with my participation.
No dice, and declined. When they called why I had not completed anything I told them why. Their reply, "Most people don't notice....".
John C Daley wrote:Following up the bomblets concept.
SEED BALLS are already in use, they are made by mixing seeds and clay in a concrete mixer and then dried.
Once they are spread around, the seeds are protected from birds and ants etc until enough moisture is around to set off the seed.
Then BINGO and plant appears.
They can sit for months or even years.
There are 3D printers that can do clay slip to make pots. I see no reason that a formula could not be developed to do the same for printing a bomblet.
Have to understand the plantation owners, unlike the seed ball, deploy an already established seedling tree when they are released. That dictates a cylindrical shape to promote proper root growth. Having the seedling already established before release enhances the chances the plant will not get smothered by more aggressive ground hugging plants.
Chris Kott wrote:The ideas, programming, and architecture can be used on the macro scale as well. John mentioned 3D-printed cob, which I think is brilliant, by the way. I would love to see that in action in person.
But yes, I believe 3D printing is definitely forum-worthy, as it definitely has the potential to be applied to solve problems in a permacultural way. If enough posts can be tabulated to please the Google Gods, it should get it's own.
Observations from your post:
* There are several firms in the AG field now implementing what you postulated. Most are targeted at row crop mgt. But they apply the ferts and bug spray on a per plant basis rather than our current 'spray the whole damn field' thought process.
* Tree planting. Several of the plantation operators now carpet bomb areas using a specialized bomblet that has an individual tree seedling contained in it. Once embedded the shell dissolves over time. Another startup is developing a drone to do the same thing but in a more precise manner. Even with current desktop 3D print, the bomblets can be created using a water soluble filament. Expensive tho, its $100 a Kg. But you could make a bunch of them since each one would only be about 10-20 grams each.
* Larger scale 3D print would probably be targeted as a community level resource simply due to the costs of materials. eg: print head, gantry, platform. The electronics that power a desktop unit would work for a larger platform. The only need that increases is large servos to drive the thing. Best such a system be portable like a small trailer that can then be assembled onsite, used, disassembled, and towed to the next job.
But even with desktop 3D printers one can assemble large structures. Take a temporary hoop house. Buy a bunch of emt, print out the connectors that fit in the pipe, assemble it, when the season ends take it apart to be ready for next season.
I posted a query to permies in a more general form, why not a subforum for 3d print? Its tech that is useful for more than just wind turbines.
By the way I might suggest a tip from the RC community. They use 3D printed templates of the wing form sandwiched between blanks of foam. Then use a DIY hot wire wand to cut the pattern out. A variation of that technique could produce the wings for the mill. Fiberglass the blank for strength.
First, has permies considered a subforum for this technology?
Second, I have looked at this tech for the last three years or so but never could quite justify the expense/utilization to buy one. Essentially would I get my money out of it? Well luck would have it a friend of a friend sold me a used one at half what it would cost new as they were upgrading. In the few weeks I have had it, the experience has been positive.
3D print compliments all the following arts:
* metal craft
* fiber arts
* household items
* You name it...
Ewwww but its plastic! Yes but its ecological since the most common feed stock, PLA, is made from plant based materials. Many in the game are looking for ways to reuse/recycle PLA as it can be turned into new filaments. A useable 3D printer can be purchased for $300-400. A spool of filament around $20.
A 3D printer might be the most useful device in the toolkit.
Some observations since the last time I posted on this particular forum.
With a new administration coming in a new reality is settling in:
* Before this year is out the govt is intending to spend from $7-10Tn.
* Russian, China are not buying US Treasury notes any longer and stocking up on gold.
* Stock market is consistently now not interested in any bond offers public or private the yields are too low.
* The real inflation rate is at least 7% if not higher (see shadowstats.com). It will go higher still.
* Unable to sell T bonds on the market, the Fed will print $$ on a massive scale.
That appears to be where we are headed in the not too distant future.
Options? Rule #1 should be get out of the US Dollar. There are various ways to achieve that:
* Buy physical. Real Estate (land, acreage, home), precious metals, tradeable skills.
* If you have a 401k, talk to the administrator and see if there are options in the plan to avoid USD denominated assets. Do realize that if your plan is not yielding a minimum of 10% yearly you are losing money against inflation.
* Move money to foreign accts not pegged to USD. Probably not possible for most of us however and due to regulations extremely hard as many foreign banks don't want the hassle.
* Trade/barter in physical rather than dollars. Its a useful skill to develop, generally yields better results, is hard to tax on the small scale.
* Garden. One of the prime items that skyrocket is food. Grow more than you need and trade that excess for the things you do need.
[Usual disclaimer. Not financial advise, merely observations. YMMV. Make your own informed decisions and seek the counsel of others as appropriate.]
Ken Hightower wrote:They were being fed from a gravity dispenser and the tarp above the pen got blown back and the wet pellets turned sorta mushy. Is it still edible? Also, the feed bowl where the feed spills in, sometimes gets a few turds mixed in. Will these harm my rabbits?
If the spoilt feed is a lot, use it on the garden. The feed will have a high percentage of alfalfa which can act as a slow release fertilizer.
I am not an expert on woolen fibers but I have a sense that a lot depends on the quality of the wool and how it is processed.
Cashmere is the warmest I believe and if the manufacturing is high quality most people do not find it itchy.
Ditch the Itch as a hipster might opine. This is a case for layers.
* Silk undergarmets tops and bottoms.
* Barrier layer to protect the undergarmets. In the US, denim is the essential choice. Any tough barrier would suffice.
* Thin wicking layer. Gortex is superior but alas it is not a natural fiber. Thin wool sweater is the natural alternative. Just be sure that there is a way for moisture to escape.
* Inner shell. Down jacket. Critical that it not become moist or it totally loses its heat retention properties.
* Outer shell. A material that sheds water which can eliminate most natural fibers.
So My wife started to bake cookies when she discovered that there were bugs in our flour! Yuck! It was in an apparently sealed container, but the bugs were there nonetheless. Obviously eating the flour is out of the question. My question to everyone is can anyone think of a good disposal method such as composting, etc.?
Thanks in advance.
Why not hit up some teachers? There still might be some of the old school that make wheat paste for the students to use. Sift the buggers out and it should be good to use.
Hook up with some herp breeders. They use flour in their feed for raising mealworms.
elle sagenev wrote:So I adore where I work. Absolutely love it. Love who I work with. I've been here for 11 years - the 2 years I stayed home with my baby. Anyway, can't express how much I enjoy where I am.
On the other hand I'm maxed out on what I can make here. Also my bosses are talking retirement. May be up to 5 years before they do retire but it's an eventuality here.
I want to get on at federal court at some point. They seem really happy there. My ideal would be my bosses retiring and my immediate starting at Fed Court. Those jobs don't open very often though. I've seen one opening there. So, I just saw an opening in probation/parole. I'm infinitely qualified. Income could potentially be double what I currently make.
So, I'm going to apply, even though it kills me to think about doing so. However, I am wanting to send a note with my application (which is to be emailed as per instructions so I can put it in the email body) which would basically say that I would like them to not tell my current boss (whom they definitely know) that I've applied as I ..... I don't know. What do I say? I love them and don't want to hurt them? Blah. I suppose I could be mature and just talk to my bosses about it ahead of time but I DONT WANNA
You have not maxxed out your earnings. Well not if you make the next step -- Have you thought of buying the business?
Keep in mind that most occupations associated with legal work have only two residual value propositions -- A client list and a reputation. Everything else is labor and when the principals disband all that disappears. Rental office space and furniture has little value.
Its a BIG leap but you have seen how the sausage is made from the inside so you would know what the real value is of the business.
Trace Oswald wrote:All of you that can kill and butcher animals that you have raised are stronger than I am. Animals become friends to me, so any that I own live out their days with me. I just can't kill them unless they are suffering in some way. And as Jay said, the smarter the animal and the more personality, the harder it is. I have had to kill chickens that were injured or sick, and I really struggle, but it would be far harder to kill an animal like a pig or a dog. ...
I love all animals, especially right next to the mash potatoes. I have cats, have had dogs, quail, rabbits, ducks, horses, even snakes at one point. Love'm all. But one has to make the distinction between 'pets' and 'dinner'. I have killed dogs that were killing my stock. If I had to say which breed would be hardest to put down, its goats. Neighbor has them and they follow him and his wife like puppies.
"Here in the US, it seems that "brown sugar" used to be a type of sugar all to itself. It was brown and something like a damp powder. Maybe a decade or two ago the labeling requirements may have changed and I started seeing brown sugar that had the ingredients listed as sugar and molasses. That "brown sugar" looked and tasted like granular white sugar with molasses added.
This week I went to pick up some organic brown sugar and the ingredient listed was "sugar". But it's clearly white sugar with molasses added. I think C&H still makes the traditional kind of brown sugar but I don't think it's organic."
1) Being an old Cracker, 'brown sugar' meant raw sugar, cane syrup crystallized, no bleaching. Generally looks like a lighter shade of 'light brown sugar'.
2) 'Market brown sugar' as I call it, its the white with molasses added. What most folks call brown sugar. Most recipes are based on this.
3) 'Bee Brown' that is honey that crystallized. A regional kind of thing I have heard as brown sugar, typically midwest thru my travels.
Raw sugar to my knowledge is always organic if rendered from syrup. Why anyone buys market brown sugar is beyond me. If you have a stand mixer you can whip up your own in a matter of 15mins. Link to make your own. To me crystallized honey is to die for. Use as is or if its still tacky dry it out some more then grind to a powder. Its much sweeter to my taste than sugar so I can use less of it for the same result. (And most folks think is to be thrown away if crystallized. Shame.)
Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:Probably I am not the one to answer your question. I am not someone following recipes when cooking. Still I like to answer. I do like reading cookbooks and recipes. First my eyes get caught by the illustrations. Most important is good photography, photos that make you want to start making that recipe, or eating that dish. In the past cookbooks used to have nice drawings too, now not so much anymore.
I like it when the recipe is clear; starting with the ingredients, neatly listed. I do not like it when a recipe is written like a story, or even like poetry. It has to explain what the cook has to do, nothing more ... but also nothing less. If there's a story to tell, it can be told at the end, after the recipe is finished. This is my opinion.
Yes a construction manual, not a Mark Twain serial.
paul wheaton wrote:We've talked about something like that a lot. The back side could have straight wheels, but the front side would need to have "wobbly wheels" - wheels that can turn. And the wheels would need to be big enough for rough terrain.
Exactly. On the front though, I would suggest a gooseneck ball assembly made for a 3 pt hitch. A chunk of 6" C channel as a cross bar. Chain it to the skids. Center of the C channel is a hole smaller than the ball, well greased. Another could be a outsized Johnson bar with a ball to fit the C channel, other end a pintle ring. Wheels could be had from a junkyard. Look for any toyota or honda FWD car. Remove the rear wheels and axle assembly. More than sturdy enough.
The issue of moving the canning kitchen launched an idea in my head. Why bother with loading it on the trailer at all? Make the skid the trailer. In the auto repo trade they have what is called a dolly bar used for towing 4WD vehicles, which has 2 sets of 2 wheels each. Why not weld up an outsided version? So on the rear skids you lift up the structure with tractor forks. Roll the dolly bar under the skids. Lock it down with trucker chain across the log. On the front skid have a draw bar spanning the logs. Lock it down with trucker chain. Back up the 3pt hitch, lift and tow it away. Reverse the whole procedure at the new location.
Would seem much safer than man handling a structure onto a trailer. It may only take 2 people for the whole effort.
You are not wrong. There is just no way to dodge a CME, and perhaps time and effort is better spent elsewhere.
Minor suggestion. Your portable comms, etc. When you are not using your canner, put them in there, lock down the lid, clip a grounding wire to the vent pipe. Its the easiest, sturdiest Faraday cage you can have.
Something I suggest people try if they are new to preparedness. Run a practice drill on a weekend.
* Have everyone participate.
* Have a worksheet handy for everyone. Have them write down what comes to mind during the actual drill.
* Start on a Friday night, end on Sunday morning. Go to the electrical panel and throw the master switch to off.
* Next weekend review the worksheets with everyone and from the discovery develop a plan of action.
I understand is that even a Carrington event is not a global phenomenon
Technically, a magnetic storm is a worldwide event inasmuch as the entire magnetosphere is involved. However, you're correct that the effects of the storm can be very localized.
In general, the storm does damage by inducing sheets of current in the earth's crust. A regional effect is that the current density tends to increase at higher latitudes due to the higher magnetic activity in the auroral zones. Unfortunately, much of the industrialized world reaches into the high latitudes.
I would want to emphases the observations here. I attended an OnCor presentation at my college. OnCor is a power distribution company here in Texas.
Here is what the guy told us in the event of a bad actor EMP attack:
* 50% chance it will take at least 3 years to fully restore power as the residential transformers will be fried.
* 80% chance it will take 4 years to reconstruct any damaged substation. Substations are custom builds let to spec are one of only 4 suppliers on the planet that build them. Its a 2 year lead time from let to delivery. Another 18 months to ship, prep site and assemble the system. Only 1 of the 4 builders is US based.
*100% chance that if you have one of those new digital power bells on your house it will be fried as well.
The hand warmer is a O2 absorber, operates on the same principle. For a quart jar its overkill. But for a 5gal bucket of grains it is just right. One of those in the bucket, seal it. The only thing left will be nitrogen gas (air is 78% nitrogen) and your food product.
Kenneth Elwell wrote:For a "non-kitchen gadget": a digital multi-meter. Super useful for troubleshooting electric/electronic devices... and I'm a novice at it. The continuity function gets a lot of use figuring out why/where a device isn't working by checking for open/closed circuits. Voltage meter is good for testing batteries (dead or alive), and home wiring (especially for staying alive, by NOT working on energized circuits). Lots of expensive things fail to function because of loose wires, or inexpensive components breaking. Who knows how much you can save on repairs versus replacements!
I can vouch for the multimeter suggestion. I would add an clamp on ampmeter and you can probably repair 90% of the problems in the home with those two tools.
Has anyone considered how simple the moon shot was? It was not much more complicated than drawing the lead for a duck shoot. The early analysis for the whole program was done on slide rules in the beginning. The hardest part is how do you keep 3 men alive for a week or more and not have the equipment weigh so much that the rocket would not leave the launch pad.
In the spirit of the post --
... still can't keep slugs out of the garden. (Even WITH ducks.)
D Nikolls wrote:Ventless propane is NOT your friend. Especially in a seacan. Bad idea.
More ways that one. Its a good heat source but.... Without proper venting within an hour the humidity will be thru the roof and in an uninsulated can all that vapor will condense on the metal walls. Be like living in a waterfall. :)
Cécile Stelzer Johnson wrote: ... I had my money in my bank a lot longer, making babies for me.
The following is for US citizens. Other countries have different laws and regs.
The best rate I can find is about 1%apy for a normal savings account ($5000 deposit). The best 5yr CD rate I could find was .65%
The inflation rate per the US dept of Labor is 1.2% link. As backstop 10yr treasuries are yielding .829% as a proxy for inflation.
At best you are breaking even. Inflation is eating the 'babies' sad to say. At worst you are going negative by small measures. I am not against saving. Everyone should have sufficient liquid assets to cover an emergency. How much is up to the individual.
The reality is it would be better to spend wisely as this thread emphasizes. Eg: Lets say I am able to acquire quality boots at $100. With resoling and repair they last a decade. Well you could expect to pay $125 or more for a replacement pair at the end of year 10. Had I deposited the $100 and earned .8%/yr at the end of year 10 I would have $108. So buying the quality boot now yields me better earning value, I use it now, I deferred the inflation curve for the 10 years, etc. The federal reserve has trashed savings in a desperate effort to get the velocity of money up to keep the economy moving.
Now saving monies for the new car when it is needed is still wise. However people may have to redefine savings. Putting it into the bank may not be the best way to save. My suggestion is find some producer like function for the money that produces a return better than what the banks offer that is higher than the inflation rate. When you find it, what is the risk factor associated with it? Always keep that in mind. That could be a side gig, a part time business, buy more bee hives, etc.
Be aware that any money you put in a US bank, checking, savings, CDs means YOU become an unsecured creditor to that bank. As such its no longer YOUR MONEY, by US bank law.webpage Essentially you are last in line to get your money back if things go South. An though FDIC is a good thing they only have 10% reserves to cover the trillions in unsecured deposits. Another words FDIC itself could go bankrupt if things got really bad.
Banks are are useful financial tool. But they are not risk free.
A man may pay any price for his first shirt, but hardly ever for the second.
Things are not normal at the current time as in years past. Hence we need to adjust --
* If you need it, buy it. But it must be essential, productive or leverages value to something already owned. No toys.
* Eliminate debt. In the current environment it is the fastest way to 'save'.
* 'Save' skills. It is the fastest way to leverage tasks to make yourself more productive.
* Watch what is going on globally. That indicates trends that affect you personally.
* Stock those things you habitually use.
Our family has gone on a canning/drying/freezing binge this year. More so than we normally do. The reason is two fold. The Chinese had a massive crop failure this year and a another round of swine disease. That means that the Chinese will bid up the market in grains and pork worldwide. By the way, SmithField the largest pork processor in the US is owned by the Chinese now. Selected food prices may not normalize for the next two years as a result. Locking in some of the price now will save us money in the short run.
I have read thru much of the literature I could find on the Chinese Greenhouse design. Have two questions:
1) Many of the designs that I saw the back and two side walls were constructed of two stands of brick with either an air gap between or an insular material between. That leads me to believe the design places less emphasis on solar banking to maintain temperatures.
Am I in error in that assumption?
2) Straw mats seems to be the favored method in China for insular covering. I presume for its ready availability. Any suggestions for a ready substitute here in the Americas?
Ronnell Rosenthal wrote:To your question about measurements; I'm American, and I personally would prefer to see recipe measurements using the metric system. It's far more precise, and particularly with baking, yields far better results. As a chef, I use grams as the primary unit when writing recipes.
Not to be a math nanny, but metric is easier but no more precise. Precision is based on divisions used not the system. I close with two thoughts:
* Strand me on a desert island with a container and I can recreate the totality of liquid measure of the imperial system and imperial weights. The infamous middle finger for most adults is ~3". A container of those dimensions (3x3x3) is a pound of water. That happens to be a imperal std. pint. (not an englsh pub pint alas.) Can't do that easily with metric. Level of accuracy? Within 2%.
* There are two countries still using imperial standard measure. One of them is the only country to date to land on the moon.
In reality it does not matter. We have both measure sets are home, as my wife is European. I drive her nuts when I adjust a american cookbook recipe in my head. She just gives me this 'how do you do that?' look.
"Give me head with hair, long beautiful hair
Shining, gleaming, streaming, flaxen, waxen
Give me down to there hair, shoulder length or longer
Here, baby, there, momma, everywhere, daddy, daddy"
Hair my friends is a good source of slow release nitrogen. Sloooooow, like a year or two. The trick of course is supply. Your barber/stylist should be your best friend Permies.