I have three or four of these cast iron corn shellers, Paul and yes they are that easy to use. If you would like to go through two bushels of ear corn every minute my engine driven sheller is great for that.
I have a large exhaust fan with a two speed electric motor and belt to drive it. Back around 1986 I had to cut the concrete floor in an apartment to run a hot water line to the bathroom. It was two lines a foot apart at least 25 feet long. I was using a concrete saw so I opened the windows in that area and set my crazy powerful fan in the doorway. This fan would blow kids over if they walked in front of it within 20 feet. I made my cuts and shut the fan off. I am very glad the house next door was owned by folks that very close friends with the lady I was doing this for. I turned their whole back yard gray. It did rain that night so their yard was green grass again that next morning.
The stove I have in the basement is an older air-tight All-Nighter Big Moe. I love it. I can do a short hot fire or a long slow fire. It is all about how I put the wood in it and how far I open the two drafts. In the coldest parts of any winter I can do a 30 or more day constant fire that never needs another match. Ten or twelve hour burns are easy to do. This stove has been here for 30 years now and I know it well.
This has been an interesting read.
I have been taking a pain reliever that we buy at our health food co-op.
It is called IbuActin.
It has Hops, Bromelain, White Willow, Papain, Ginger and Tumeric in it.
Next time there I will look at the other pain relievers they have.
Some of it is making your own firebricks, but that requires a kiln. It's probably easier to find a few firebricks.
Julia, In the video he is making Insulated Firebricks. I wouldn't make that stove with plain hard firebricks.
You can make something to fire them in by using a Harbor Freight weed burner and some thrown together fire box with insulation wrapped around it.
Todd Parr wrote:I've been thinking of making a kind of box inside my chicken run, say a foot wide and eight feet or so long maybe 8"-12" deep, and putting compost a few inches deep and planting my excess seeds in it. Then I could cover the box with chicken wire and the chickens could eat the plants as they grow up thru the wire. Like Tyler, I don't generate enough compost to feed my 30+ chickens and I'm trying to cut the feed bill, at least during the summer months.
I have seen a video someone did about a rack of trays where they had a tray of sprouted seeds every day to give to their chickens. For 30 chickens you would need three or even four of those racks full of trays but to me it really looks to be a good way to feed the chickens. I will scout around and see if I can find it again.
Tyler Ludens wrote:So I'm going to consider this experiment finished. I think the Chickens on Compost concept has merit, but my system is not yet robust enough to provide sufficient compost ingredients for more than about 3 chickens. Because so many of my chickens are growing youngsters, I don't want to risk stunting or even killing them by insisting they survive on depleted compost heaps. So I will be going back to the usual feed of oats and sunflower seeds plus garden scraps. The 4 Orpingtons who survived the snake attack are now in a paddock shift setup, but they will also be getting regular seeds.
I think a very robust permaculture system could provide all the feed for chickens using a combination of paddock shift compost heaps, BSF larvae, and homegrown seeds, but mine is a long way from that point. I think it would be interesting to see just how many chickens could be raised in this way. I think enough hens to provide a small household with daily eggs would be a modest goal. Raising enough chickens this way to have market eggs or meat birds would require a very robust system.
Like someone else said if you sprout your seeds you will get a lot more feed value out of them.
I really do appreciate this topic. Thank you for your good reporting.
I do it this way.
This is only one of my three two hole corn shellers.
I can crank them by hand or power them like this video shows.
It was built between May and December of 1892.
I did a little research after I put that video up.
I also have one almost just like it that was the model they started making in December of 1892.
They started making this model in 1886.
It would have been a mill or a very progressive farm that had it.
It is interesting to me that both of them that I have were found on farms within 12 miles of where they were built.
The third one I have is a later model that just drops the corn out the bottom and the cobs go out the back.
I use this type at a show because of all of the Monkey Motion as I call it. They are just a better display.
The slightly newer one is what I will use here at home.
NO The solar panels will be on the shed 600 feet away from the greenhouse on skids.
The shed out back will never be moved.
The greenhouse must be movable or I would get taxed for it.
I will have another 12 to 15 barrels back behind a privacy fence that I will pump the water to before moving the greenhouse in the spring. The same pump that will be circulating the hot water will be used to move the water.
I do not want the bench in the greenhouse.
In this one the water will be the mass.
Is is acceptable at all to wrap the copper tubing around the outer barrel?
Seems to me that outer barrel and especially the top of that barrel will be putting heat into the air in the greenhouse.
If I absolutely must I will consider a run behind the barrels and wrap the copper there and just wrap insulation around the pipe.
I agree it would be a waste to just dump the output outside so I guess I must.
Where is the greater heat? Is it around the barrel or in the pipe?
Wow, I just read the RMH, fresh air intake, why suck out warm air from inside?
This really makes me wonder about my idea to feed it from the porch.
I like the last comment I read about routing a pipe of outside air through the bench into the room so the air is warm and then just using room air for combustion.
I would leave the end of the incoming air duct sticking out far enough to slide a good cap on it when the stove is shut down.
Thank you for the reply.
My first one will be in a shed out at the back of my five acres.
No water barrels out there.
I will follow all guidelines in doing it the best I can because that shed will be carrying solar panels on a steep roof.
That is to help keep the snow off the panels.
The batteries and such will be in the shed and the inverter to power the fence charger will be there.
I am working on two of my five acres to get it in shape to start growing feed for pigs and chickens.
The electric fence will hopefully keep the deer and coons out of the crops.
The green house will be mounted on skids and it will mostly be used in the winter.
Not to extend the seasons but to give me salads all winter.
That will be up here in the yard near the house.
So are you saying I shouldn't wrap copper tubing around the heat riser?
How about around the outer barrel?
I really do want those plastic barrels full of water with grow beds on top of them.
However I can get a rocket stove to put heat into those barrels that is what I want.
I have these cool pin cherry trees.
If I cut one off during the winter while all of the sap is down there in the roots that next summer the stump will be full of small branches that each will end up as tall as the last tree had been.
This time though it will be a bush.
I will do four of them and if I let the bush go a year or two it will provide an amazing amount of rocket stove fuel.
The first year cut will provide fuel for my wood stove in the basement.
I am pretty sure I am safe in saying I could go out right now and tag thirty of those stupid trees here. It is time to make them work for me.
You got lost?
Walk in to the porch the feed tube is on the left.
The bundles of firewood is on the right.
Go through the door into the shed and the barrels that make up the heat riser and the outer barrel are on the left.
The bench goes down that wall and across the end wall before heading out the far end of the right wall.
Please tell me the critical part about the transition area.
Or give a link to the best info please.
I will not need the rocket mass heater in the shed during the summer and I will not need the electric fence in the winter.
I will love that shed in the winter for quiet time reading though.
I need to build a shed out back and I want to put a rocket mass heater in it.
I am thinking about an enclosed porch where the feed part is and the fire will be like under the wall into the building. The enclosed porch will be on the South side of the building and it will be a dry place to store bundles of firewood.
That way the air that is feeding the fire will not be coming from inside the building. Just a short distance inside the wall will be the fire loop then the exhaust into the bench that will be on the West side then on the North wall before exiting out through the East wall.
This would just be a testing mass heater. The idea is to head back there on a cold winter day and see what the mass heater will do. If I keep a fire going for 24 hours or until it is warm in there then just let the fire die down to see how long the warmth lasts. Ultimately what I want is to build a greenhouse with one in it.
If I could just feed it several times a day and the mass would carry it through the night I would be so happy.
Also I must ask if anyone thinks water can be the mass.
Originally I was planning to use an old cast iron wood stove I have that has a water jacket around it and two threaded holes to plumb it up with 3/4" pipe. I was going to place 12 plastic 55 gallon drums around the greenhouse with the grow beds on top of them. Insulation wrapped around all of the barrels would make almost all of the heat go up through the grow beds. I was going to push water through the stove then through all of the barrels. The cast iron stove would have been radiating heat into the whole greenhouse.
I know the rocket stove will burn a lot cleaner and get more heat out of the wood. If I can wrap enough copper line around it do any of you think the water barrels would be okay to use?
I have insulated double pane sliding glass door panels to use for the glass parts of the greenhouse. If I had row covers on the grow beds just think about all of the heat that would be stored in those barrels radiating up through the grow beds then it is trapped under the row covers.
My idea would be a 3/4" Galvanized pipe to the rocket heater then to a header pipe with a lot of smaller 3/8" copper lines going around and around the rocket stove before heading them all back into a header pipe of Galvanized 3/4" then around to all of the barrels. I do have 100' of 1977 3/8 copper that has never been out of the cardboard boxes. I also have an old pressure tank that I would use upside down as an expansion tank in the system.
I probably would just drill holes in the header pipes and tap them to fit 3/8" pipe to flare adapters.