So, I am currently growing 2 types of storage onions in NJ(Zone 7). One is a yellow onion(Dorata di Parma) and the other is a red(Ruby red). I want to start saving my own seed and I know that saving your own seed for 2 different varieties of onion in a small garden can cause problems, so I was thinking that I could just alternate years....save yellow this year, save red the next. However, that would mean planting onion seeds that are 2 years old. I know onion seeds are very short lived, so I was wondering if anyone has experience saving their own onion seeds and if planting 2 year old seed is still a viable option
I am 28 YO from southern NJ. I recently finished grad school and began working as a pharmacist in Philadelphia. Unfortunately, it took years of school and hundreds of thousands of dollars to realize that I don't want to spend the rest of my life working a 9-5 and paying bills.....and all the while not really serving any greater purpose. While in grad school I stumbled across permaculture and really just fell in love with it. Gardening, farming, natural building.....I hooked on all of it. I'm planning my first cob oven right now and already thinking about a cob house. I have a large garden and I love to cook and eat. I'm Irish-Italian but I was raised mostly italian. My mother was the first one in her family raised in America so I was fortunate enough to have significant exposure to real culture through her family. I believe that this played a large role in wanting to return to a more simple, cultured way of living.
I'm looking for a like minded female, preferably 23-33. I should mention that I am a wine maker so I do drink casually. I'm about 5'11 165lb. I'm in good shape and like to be active. You can look me up on facebook or send me a message for pictures or just to chat.
My family in Sicily has always used outdoor ovens. They have all built their own. I noticed that they always have 2 ovens....one for bread and one for meat. From what I understand its because the bread will have off flavors if baked in an oven that is often used to roast meat. Can anyone comment on this? I want to build a cob oven and will frequently be using it for both meat and bread....so now I am debating whether or not I need 2 ovens.
So, this year I am planting some cover crops mixes in the veggie garden. I have 5 raised beds....4' x 50'. I recently planted a mix of field pea and oats to over winter. However the germination is not so great. I am confident that I got them in deep enough, however I have no mulch over them because I was worried that would hinder germination. Although, now I think that no mulch is almost worse because the sun dries the soil out so bad that nothing is going to germinate unless I'm out there every single night watering the whole garden.(I have drip irrigation but that obviously is no good without mulch). So, any ideas about what mulch and how much I might be able to get away with with out hindering germination? I have the following mulches available: wood chips(fresh and composted), grass clipping from the lawn(fresh and several weeks/months decomposed), and organic wheat straw.
Ok so no exhaust into the house. What if I ran the exhaust duct up through the floor, into the bedroom, through the bedroom ceiling , and out through the roof? The bedroom is the coldest room in the house. Would that section of exhaust running through the room give off any significant heat? It would mean having about 50 ft of exhaust duct. Not sure if thats a problem. Maybe I could even cob the section of exhaust in the bedroom to act as a small thermal mass? So basically the duct would run from the ping pong table up to the ceiling and over the the far corner of the basemwnt(where the wine barrel is proped up on cinder block) then through the basement ceiling, into the bedroom corner(pic attached) and out through the bedroom ceiling, then out the roof. Possible??? Will that much exhaust duct mess with the convention of the heater?
I have a one story house with a large open basement. I was thinking about building a large rocket mass heater in the center of the basment. However, the conventional heating ducts hang from the rafters right over the place that I want to put the rocket mass heater. So, I was thinking....can I just connect the exhaust from the rocket heater to the heating ducts and have that excess hot air travel through the ducts into the upstairs for additional heat up there? Or is that not wise? Does the exhaust absolutely have to travel out of the house? I attached a photo...the mass heater will go right where the ping pong table is. You can see the heating ducts hanging from the rafters just above it.
I have 5 raised beds that are each 50' x 4'. They are mounded or "rounded" raised beds. I am going to plant cover crops this winter to chop and drop in the spring. So I am looking for some advice on what tool I should use for chop and drop. I own a 14" machete but I don't know if thats the best tool for chop and drop on oats, rye, hairy vetch type. I was thinking scythe or sickle but I don't know much about them. Since the beds are mounded I was thinking scythe might be alittle hard to use plus I don't have that large of an area....but like I said I don't really know much. Suggestions?
So I have 5 raised garden beds....each 50' x 4'. I want to plant some cover crops this fall to chop down in the spring and use a mulch. Any ideas about which tool is more appropriate given the size of my garden and the fact the the raised beds are "rounded" or "mounded". Wasn't sure if scythe was overkill. And to be honest at the moment I don't have any other use for scythe so I'm leaning towards a sickle. That being said where can I purchase one and is there a particular kind I should be looking for?
I want to do an 18 day compost with woodchips, fresh grass clippings, and horse manure because this is what I have available. I know they say to do 2/3 browns and 1/3 greens but since my brown portion is straight wood chips which are extremely high in carbon I was thinking that maybe I need to do more like 1/2 chips and then 1/2 greens? Any thoughts on this? The wood chips were from the tree service which dumped them for free right out of the wood chipper. They have been sitting on my driveway for 2 months so they are already somewhat decomposed. The grass and manure is all fresh.
In Geoff's "permaculture soils" video he does a demonstration of 18 day compost. In the video he gives a basic ratio of Browns to greens to manures. Anybody who has the video remember what he said? I know most people simplify it to 2/3 browns to 1/3 greens but in this video he was a little more specific.....browns - greens- manures. I was hoping someone with the video can go back and check. Thanks
I am growing my grandmother's heirloom roma tomatoes that she brought from italy. They are a determinate tomato. I have never used cages before but I am going to try it this year. I have 5' tall cages made from concrete reinforcment cage that is bent into a circle of 18" diameter. Will this be wide enough for a roma?
This year I am going to try bucket(gravity fed) drip irrigation fro my garden beds. However, I have been thinking about easy/cheap/headache free ways to suspend the buckets 3-4 feet above the beds. I was thinking about using a simple bamboo tripod. Any thoughts about whether or not this will hold a five gallon bucket of water? I was thinking I could let the bucket hang from tripod or maybe find a way to sit it on top. I've never used/made a bamboo tripod before so I'm not sure if this will work. Thoughts?
I am installing a 275 gallon rainbarrel with drip irrigation for 4 raised beds( each 4ft x 50ft). I don't really have the resources or time to build a platform for raise the barrel up for a gravity powder system. Therefore, I was going to try a solar powered pump. However, considering that my beds would require fairly long lengths of drip tubing I'm worried about the consistency of water out-put throughout the drip system. Do I really need to worry about pressure regulators, emitters, etc considering that I will be hooked to a pump designed for drip irrigation? any thoughts?
Dave Burton wrote:Well, the area could be re-flattened by pushing the soil back into the footpaths. Then, recalculate contours and place it all on contour.
Maybe drainage ditches could be dug through the area to divert the water to a proper swale. Then, rocks could be placed in the ditches and footpaths to mitigate the possible erosion from large water events.
Your idea of mulching the footpaths sounds like a constructive way of returning the footpaths to level land on level with the rest of the area.
Yea I guess if I filled the footpaths slightly above grade with woodchips that could prevent my feet from getting wet in the days following a rain event. I'm just hoping a rain wont pick up those wood chips and carry them away in those areas
I recently made several large raised beds...some of them 50+ feet in length. I built them by digging out the foot paths and piling the dirt up adjacent to form several rows of raised beds. However, I over looked the fact that they were not on contour and now a single rain event foods the foot paths very severely. My original plan was to fill up the foot paths with 6-10" of wood chips but now there is too much water. it does drain but very very slowly. It usually rains again before they have a chance to drain. Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this problem. I was going to try to move all that dirt to reorient the beds more to contour, however, now it will be hard to find contour with all those mounds of dirt. please help
Has anyone tried sepp's bone sauce for voles? They ate every last potato this past summer and I really don't want to have to trap them all year long. So, I was thinking about painting some bone sauce onto some branches and burying them shallow along side my potatoes next time I plant. Just wonder if anyone else has successfully kept voles from root crops with this sauce.
I recently made some raised beds for gardening by digging out the foot paths(about a foot deep and 2.5ft wide) and dumping the dirt adjacent to create the raised bed. However, those sunken foot paths collect tons of water after a rain. Initially I was thinking about how I can drain that water away but now I'm thinking, why don't I just get a pump which can pump that water back up onto the beds during the growing season, and connect to a drainage hose to divert water away in the winter. The problem is, I don't know the first thing about pumps. So, I'm hoping that someone in the pond thread has experience with pumps and can give me an idea of what kind of pump I need. And hopefully it can be solar powered. I'm all ears!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Oy_x5rXq19g In this video they show her garden beds before anything has been planted. The beds are mulched and they have what appears to be bamboo criss crossed over each bed. Does anybody know what the bamboo is for? To hold the mulch in place?
I grew my grandmother's roma tomatoes from seed this year that she brought over from Italy years back. I grew 36 plants thinking that I would be able to can enough tomato sauce for all winter but my yields were low which can be attributed to many things but one major thing I think was that I did a crappy job staking them. From what I understand caging is really the best way to get high yields. However, I have no idea how tall and what diameter cage I need. Can anyone educate me on this subject?
I have stopped spraying my lawn several years back for grubs but now I have a serious mole/vole problem. They're everywhere and they decimated my potatoe harvest which I am not happy about. So now I am on a mission to defeat them. I am going to buy some traps but i saw online that castor oil beads and even fruity bubble gum placed in their tunnels helps repel them. Anyone have any comments or suggestions? Obviously I want to do thing chemical free
This was a good question because I often wondered about this. However I was thinking that this would be hard to test while the watermelon is still on the vine. And correct me if I'm wrong but I thought melons don't continue to ripen after you pick them, so if you pick it to do this test and it's not ripe then you just wasted a melon. I was thinking however that you might be able you use one of these to do this test right in the garden.
So I make five gallon batches of compost tea at home and I always run into the problem of forgetting to leave a bucket of tap water sit for 24 hours . Even then I don't really know if there are things other than chlorine in my towns water tht are inhibiting microbial growth. Anyway, I live in NJ and this time of year the dehumidifier in my basement pulls close to 3-4 gallons of water out of the air every 24 hours. So, it occurred to me that this would be optimal water for tea brewing as long as you keep your dehumidifier relatively clean. I even thought about straining it and boiling it to use as drinking water if you were really concerned about fluoride and other crap in tap water. Just figured I'd share this thought
Ken Peavey wrote:The yellow spots hints of a mosaic virus.
Do you have cucumbers planted nearby?
Do you see any aphids on your chard or any nearby plants?
How is the weed situation?
Do you see this only on the chard or on anything else?
I guess I should have said yellow spots, not brown. There are only 3 cuc plants and they are about 30-40 feet away and they are only about 10" tall because I was late planting them. I have not seen any sign of affids. The spots are only on the chard, nothing else. No weeds at all. I mulched with a mix of leaves saved from the fall and fresh grass clippings. Is it safe to eat? How can I remedy the situation? This virus is spread by affids?
Are they small grasshoppers like the size of a dime? I live in Nj and I have them all over my potatoes but they don't seem to be doing any significant damage. I have cilantro dill and marigolds planted in and around my potatoes which I know has kept potatoe beetle in check( I still had to manually pick some off on an almost daily basis but no damage was done to my plants). I know this companion planting worked for potato beetle because I would often see wasps eating adult beetles right on the potato plants. So, I am thinking that the same is happening to the grasshoppers I have there. They are present but kept in check by wasps. Marigolds also worked for tomato worm. My tomatoes last year were totally cover in tomato worms and not a single tomato was harmed(every tomato worm was completely covered in wasp cacoons). So if ou don't have marigolds in and around the garden then that would be a good start. I think I bought an entire tray for 8$ at my local garden store.
I know that the guy from "back to eden garden"....the woodchip guy...does that. He's up in washington state i believe. He harvests potatoes and literally in the same instant throws his largest right back in the hole. Although I am a little confused about your post as I am new to growing potatoes myself...I am in zone 7 and I was told to plant potatoes in early May around the time dandelions bloom. My potatoes will be harvested summer/fall as I planted an early, mid, and late variety. I am curious about how you are harvesting in March? what zone are you?
I am in NJ and this time of year there is clover in most suburban lawns. It forms a very small yellow flower that turns white as it matures and attracts bumble bees. I am curious if anyone has an idea about what kind of clover this is and if it will be a problem to have this clover seed all throughout my veg garden, as I have used grass clippings as mulch which undoubtedly have clover seed in them. I'm assuming i can use it like a living mulch next spring and plant my cold crops in amongst it?
I have a large raised bed devoted to greens. Right now something has been eating my PAC Choy and has moved on to my broccoli raab. It appears to be a small green caterpillar which you see on the broccoli in the pic I posted if you look carefully. Anyone know specially what these are and any ideas on what I can plant along side to prevent further damage? I have sage rosemary and Tyne already planted but they don't appear to be helping. Would dill be a good idea?
Along with not enough moisture I think your carbon ratio is probably too high. You have to figure saw dust has a surface area that is extremely large because it is so fine. So it's likely that you are adding more carbon than you think. In terms of moisture it has been my experience that a tarp or cardboard placed over the top of the pile helps maintain evaporated moisture....don't cover too right though because you'll cut off air flow. If you reach into the pile at any point and pull out a handful and squeeze it you should get at least a few drops of moisture dripping from your hand...if not you probably needed to must the pile for 5-10 minutes or, if it's really dry, turn the pile and add water during that whole process.
All different kinds....I took leaves from all of my neighbors in the fall. My only concern with grass is that this is a very deep mulch I'm using for potatoes so I'm worried that the fresh grass with start to mat down and heat up and not let enough oxygen through to the soil. I actually just went out and mixed up a 50/50 ratio of leaves and grass and mulched another 6-8" around the first couple rows. I think this will work well. The pile of grass from last weeks lawn mowing was almost 160 degrees when I measured it this evening...it's a very small pile too.
For starters, I live in NJ. I did potatoes this year which i placed on top of well drained soil. I then covered each row of potatoes with compost and then leaves(plain old leaves that had been sitting in a pile all winter and slightly started to decompose). Now, my potatoes are about 8" above mulch, so I want to add more mulch. Considering the time of year I have grass clippings which are now about a week old and holding temps of about 150 degrees. Is there any reason I should not use these grass clippings? I imagine they will quickly lose temp once dispersed as mulch with some leaves mixed in. I could also just use more leaves from the leaf pile....let me know what your thoughts are.
I am a beginner and I am doing potatoes for the first time this year. I pulled back the leaf mulch that I laid in the Fall and put whole potatoes right on top of the soil in my garden bed. I covered them each with a shovel full of compost(leaves, manure, garden waste) that I made last Fall. On top of that I further covered the compost with wet leaves that I kept separate from my compost pile. Looking at my potatoes a couple weeks later I cannot imagine that they will not actually make it through that mulch. I will point out that the leaves I used on top of the compost were partially mulched so they have not matted down as unmulched leaves tend to do. They havn't sprouted yet but I will keep you posted when they do
I live in NJ. This time of year there are a lot of dandelions in my lawn and I've noticed some are starting to go to seed. Is it kosher to just snag some seeds from one of these and plant them in a garden bed for food? In other words, are these similar to the dandelions you by at the grocery store? Does anyone already do this?
Jessica Gorton wrote:I will say, though, that I don't "pluck" my seedlings (not that I think that's what you really meant!). Wet down the cells really well. Remove from the plastic, then gently break up the root ball, trying to extricate as much of the roots with each seedling as possible.
I have tomatoes, kale, swiss chard, pac choy, collards, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels, broccoli bob. So you're saying I can just water them down and pluck each individual seedling out bare roots and either transplant into a pot, individual cell, or right into my garden? And I can generally do this once they have their first true leaves(they already do)?