I've got vacant residential lots next to mine overgrown with Brazilian Peppers. The canopy extends 15-20ft onto my property on both sides..
I lop the foliated branches off and feed them through my wood chipper to mulch my paths.
I understand wanting to rid yourself of them (especially on large properties).. they go nuts. I haven't found an eradication practice that I'm comfortable with trying yet.
Other than smothering it out as stated above. I thought about topping the smaller stumps with black trashcans or wrapping with black trash bags for a few seasons.
I'm actually attempting to manage the larger ones that I couldn't possibly wrap.. I've cut 4-5 trees down along my property line to allow sun into my garden.
Brazilian Peppers, as long as their shoots don't need to seek light in the under-story, grow straight and FAST - make easy fodder for the wood chipper. So I'm attempting
to leave them alone for the season and before they flower I should be able to harvest a bunch of easily chippable canes to add to the compost pile or refresh garden pathways.
It has left me in the same predicament though - unable to process a large volume of logs and branches which, as I move to the largest of the trees, are only getting larger in diameter.
I need a bigger wood chipper (mine is only 4hp 3" capacity) but that is cost prohibitive.
The few ideas i've come up with I can't possibly put the effort into as I don't own the property next door.. So making keyhole hugel suntraps, lining desired pathways, building raised beds, et.al. are all out of the question at the moment. Currently it's just a habitat for snakes and lizards.
Andrew Parker wrote:Rose,
Before committing to purchase anything, plan to spend a week or two in July or August out in the undeveloped areas and try to do something physically demanding for at least 4 hours a day and something productive for at least 8 hours a day (they can overlap) and see how well you like it. [Hint: Start each day early in the morning as soon as it is light enough to see, move under shade when it gets too sunny, then escape to a cooled interior space when it gets too hot.] Keep in mind that you get those conditions for six to nine months each year.
Be careful with this advice, while Andrew is right about getting a feel for the environment and testing your workability.. even acclimated you can dehydrate quickly and be incapacitated without someone to watch your back. In the military they use strict Work/Rest/Water consumption cycles to ensure soldiers don't get unnecessary heat injuries while training (in combat, it's nothing more than a "Hey, it's Heat Cat 5.. drink water, if you can find it get some shade, scan your sector"). Here is a link for your consideration to mitigate heat related injury. It's taken very seriously in training.
Granted the average person doesn't have a Wet Bulb to check.. there are tutorials out there for creating them. I just apply it to the ambient temperature as a guideline when working with others outside to ensure they take rest appropreately.
casey lem wrote:Do the trees absolutely need to come down, or could you trim a little to filter sunlight? As far as rates, we had a large branch over our power lines. I called the power company and they came out for free. Might be an option. Also, I find I'm always running into friends/ co workers who know someone who has a tree trimming business, might find a deal if you look. If the trees do com down you can always use the wood another way.
I agree with that sentiment. Trimming out the branches that don't get as much sunlight because others have grown around them does WONDERS for sun penetration. If they are all healthy committing to managing them might be more beneficial than taking them out in the long run.
I have 12 (palms/oaks) trees in my backyard that provide all sorts of compost fodder, wood chips, habitat for the squirrels and birds that raid my garden, a spot to hang ferns and orchids and air plants, free dragon fruit trellis, shade for the garden and pets.. the list of products of a tree is numerous that aren't quite obvious. I could easily trim two branches off the oak hammock, without setting it back much, to COMPLETELY change the solar dynamic of my yard. Studying your shade envelop could help define the areas you need to prune back.
Sadly, I'm moving and my new yard is a blank, sun poached, slate.. with poor soil and oddly enough there's a large stump in the backyard..
Also, In my area the power company doesn't trim lines between the pole and the house, just between poles on their right of way.. that's the home owners responsibility to source a licensed contractor. So don't be surprised if your utility company declines the maintenance on any wires.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:
I seriously doubt that eliminating the particular sets of species of fungi that have been found to produce this by product would have any great effect.
On the other hand, our current methods of producing Nitrous Oxide gas for medical uses is also leaking contaminates into the atmosphere.
From that respect, we now have data showing we could simply collect the gas with out going through a manufacturing process.
Absolutely. My first instinct with anything is the "Hold on there" approach. Going full-on catastrophe on new scientific findings based on emotional hysteria is a recipe for disaster.
Defining something as producing, or exhibiting behavior, that is detrimental to the environment isn't a laudable achievement of science for me..
Just an anecdotal observational curiosity to be mulled over. I don't see it being a decisive victory in the overall debate towards the issue of Ozone depletion.
When I'm in a controlled environment and fed a different uniform source of food than I'm used to I produce unnatural gasses in increased quantities as well..
I'm more interested in what I am doing to promote environmental decay than anything else. There's a reason mushrooms do what they do and they achieve success more efficiently than we could ever hope to.
And if it's exudates could be used to further aid humanity in it's quest for world domination.. then, well.. Hey.. This is beneficial but there's still work to be done.
If it's the N2O gas that becomes notable or if they are producing it in the process of breaking down other hazardous materials not sampled in the report..
I use zinc galvanized steel cattle panels to trellis malabar spinach, pole beans and sweet potato (although I wish I could keep the sweet potato off of it) without any noticeable detriment to the plants.
Being that Zinc is a required mineral in our bodies.. I'll take a pole bean from a zinc galvanized trellis over a supermarket pole bean any day.
Hey that's a cool site. Thanks for turning me onto it.
I think you'll be best suited doing the research on which mushrooms will work well in the substrate that you will be mulching out around your farm and running limited tests with different self-produced varieties until you know which one(s) perform(s) well. Once you know what results to expect you COULD order bulk sawdust/grain spawn to save yourself the trouble and time associated with producing mass quantities and it wouldn't be as much of a risk as, say, ordering bulk spawn of a certain variety only to find out that it finds your environment to be less than optimal.
Sometimes you can find deals on ordering limited amounts of spawn from certain websites. Fungi.com has (I believe it's permanent) a deal on 3x100plug packs "Buy 3 100-packs of any of our Plug Spawn species (mix & match) and receive a 34% discount at checkout!" but they don't have a large variety. Their pure spawns are quite expensive but they offer a more diverse variety.
I've been eyeballing the Morel's but I don't own my land so I may be moving before they produce.. That would be a waste.
klorinth McCoy wrote:James, thank you for the excellent advice. That was a really helpful response.
I'm thinking you are totally right about learning to grow mycelium.
It's really cool to watch it grow every day. I bought woody mushrooms because my neighbour brought down an oak tree and I had a plethora of logs to play with.
I can't speak to the wood - but I inoculated as many as I could and saved a few plugs in sterilized spent coffee grounds to see if I could grow more stock.
Pretty much, the only reason I drink coffee any longer is to satisfy my sugar addiction and to keep the spawn multiplying.
My logs have been plugged for a year and have shown no signs of growth but they just border my garden beds so if they don't produce they still serve a function.
My Oak leaf piles, however, get taken to easily without any effort other than covering the contents of a jar with dry leaves.
My only difficulty with that plan is figuring out what to start with to learn. They don't really tell you what is easy to grow and learn with.
I know how you feel.. Especially, having spent $40 on spawn with no experience and nothing but others comments.
I wasted a batch of Chicken of the Woods (couldn't get the logs for it, kept it in damp sawdust while looking for them and it ultimately failed.)
and the Shitaki I put in oak logs.. I've got no clue.. maybe something will come of it (I didn't save any plug spawn to reproduce)
But the Pearl Oyster I ordered.. keeps spreading throughout my jars like wild fire.
I've sterilized compost, dry leaves, wet leaves, straw, grains, spent coffee in jars in my little pressure cooker (or water bath prior to finding a pressure cooker at a yard sale)
and inoculated them the next day and it eats on just about anything with varying success rates. Same goes for the other, unknown, variety I have.
At the dollar store Jelly Jars are $5-$8 a dozen.. so it makes doubling and tripling spawn affordable, easy and reusable.
doesn't require multiple temperature changes. Our house is geothermal so the temp is a steady 20 Celcius (68-70F) with almost no fluctuation anywhere except in front of the big south facing windows.
Even the basement is designed to sit at 19 degrees. I could really use a suggestion of species.
My house (Central Florida) stays between 74F/80F (23C-26C)all year round. So I don't have much of a change in temperature either. I guess at night in the winter it can dip below 20C/70F as I really hate getting out of bed in Jan/Feb.
I'm curious about the number of jars you are adding to your pile. How do you decide how many are needed? Or is it just what you have ready to go?
I toss whatever I have left after starting a new batch of jars. I can use 1 Jelly Jar to inoculate another entire (12ea) batch and I usually leave one untouched in case something drastic happens and they all mold over or fail for some reason
(that happens a lot when experimenting with different growing mediums, not so much (if at all) when I propagate them into something I know they like).
If I were to place small piles all around the property and put a jar in each one... I could spread the nutrients and mycelium quickly and not have to disturb the piles once the mycelium is established. I assume that would be much better for growing the fungi I want, where I want it??
If you have the ability to mulch deeply in certain areas to add organic material to the soil around your trees.. I don't see why you couldn't plant several "jar plugs" into the mulch in place around your trees.
It all comes down to your substrate.. Field and Forest has a very limited beginners-primer on their website https://www.fieldforest.net/substrates.asp regarding what common commercial varieties grow best on what. I found it mildly helpful in helping me find something I could at least play with.
klorinth McCoy wrote:Evening,
Question: can I just add leaves to the manure piles and get fungal growth started in the piles, then spread it where the trees and shrubs are located? Would that be enough to get fungal growth into the soil?
I suppose it would depend on the species of mushroom you used and whether or not they are a primary or secondary decomposer. You wouldn't want to inoculate a hot pile with mushroom spawn as it could get too hot for them to survive. Already composted material wouldn't be good for, say, an Osyter Mushroom as they are primary decomposers of hardwood materials and leaves..
I have two species that break down oak leaf litter (the oyster and an unknown variety I wild picked BECAUSE it was growing in leaf litter) and the best advice that I can give you is to learn to reproduce the spawn and you'll have no issues with quantity.. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on spawn in hopes that it will get the job done.. order enough so that you can learn to produce the spawn that you hope will get the job done.. in the process of experimentation around your property you will identify what is and isn't working for you.
The picture below is of my oyster mushroom mycelium before I toss it in my compost pile which is 95% oak leaves plus grass clippings, kitchen waste, chopped palm fronds et. al.. I bought the spawn once two years ago from fungi.com and have been reproducing my own ever since with very little failure. My compost pile is roughly 12ft across (circular) and chest high and I toss about 4-8 jelly jars full of mycelium into it every time I remember I have a mushroom garden growing under my bed.
Keep your eye out for mushrooms growing in similar material around your land.. If it's growing out of sheep poo.. put it in a jar of sheep poo and see what happens. If and when it catches.. find bigger jars and split it between the two, four, six to sixty new jars until it is ready to inoculate a larger pile.
I sterilize my small jelly jars (hot water bath/pressure cooker), even large 1gal pickle jars (170-180degree oven for several hours).. but there is no way I can sterilize my entire compost pile and the mycelium takes off just fine.
Once you learn to reproduce the mycelium then you can experiment all you want because it's $free.99
Who was it that runs his orchard using the STUN (Sheer total utter neglect) method? Mark Shepard?
I'm of that mindset.. Plant every seed that comes through your kitchen and you'll find the answer that God has intended for you.
I've got Lychee, Rambutan, Starfruit, 6 different Citrus trees, Dragon Fruit, Passion Fruit, Muscadines, Raspberries and Blackberries all started from seed.. I haven't got a clue if they will be the producers I hope they will be but if they aren't.. Well I've got my own source of genetically unique seed stock to plant more. The problem I'm going to have to contend with is space in my 8th of an acre backyard with it's massive oak tree..
If I had 12 Acres I could easily dedicate a portion of that to letting an orchard go feral (through STUN) by jonny appleseeding my land from fruit I'm already eating every week while I purchased cultivars that I DO want for production.
At the end of the day - if you can't find anything to do with your feral produce (making vinegar, alcohol, feeding livestock, worm farming, composting to support productive stock.. et.al.) you will at least have organic matter to return to the earth, in the form of a fallen tree, in a desired location where you want to develop the next generation of your productive stock.
The BEST part of having time on your side is that not everything has to happen at once: so long as you're not gambling everything you have on, say, apple yields of unknown eating quality that won't happen for years to come.
***CAVEAT: I think in that podcast linked above (series of 3, make sure you hear them all) Mark was talking to Scott about ways he got cheap stock by giving seed he needed started to nurseries and guaranteeing he would buy 100% the stock back from them at a pre-negotiated price... So that podcast may actually be directly in-line with what you are looking for. I would defiantly give it a listen. It was a very good series of interviews.
Nice, I had a spider similar to that build it's house across my sliding glass door. After my wife walked into it I was sufficiently motivated to move it so I picked up a garbage can lid and pushed it through the web so it would stick to the lid. With a little bit of fruit in the lid it attracted plenty of bugs for her to eat..
She eventually crawled out of the lid and made a new web, complete with giant egg sack on some oak saplings.. We monitored her for a while until she died.. and we never actually saw the egg sack produce anything.. so sadly, I've got no input on that point. To this day I have yet to see another in my yard.
Thought this was cool and that I might share it here in the bugs section.
I think this is a caddisfly larvae. Not entirely sure but it fits the description.. except it's habitat is now my Malabar Spinach in my Laundry Room.
It's been crawling around my seedlings like a hermit crab on a tight rope.. it's really quite interesting to watch.
To clarify by "seeing" the convection currents we could see the particulates riding them. They would rise to the top in the middle where the water was warmer, transfer to the outside of the jar where the heat would dissipate through the jar and sink back too the bottom.
I also attempted to make a small batch of bio char like this but the jar would fill with smoke and the glass covered with resin.. Eventually it heated up so much on one side it shattered. It would be awesome to make bio char without burning sacrificial wood for fuel.
I think the failure had to do more so with our patience and lack of planning than anything else. Clearly we heated the water, could see the condensation on the inside of the gallon pickle jar we used, and given the debris we added to the water we could see the convection currents within the liquid.. (I think our max Temp was ~197F) Given more time I'm sure we would have eventually reached a rolling boil but clouds set in and my son lost interest after the first day.
Also, we used a glass jar, on a pizza stone.. Both materials transfer heat really well so i'm thinking the pizza stone actually acted as a heat sink given the narrowly focused beam of sunlight it never warmed up enough to actually HOLD the heat. (Large Surface area, small focused beam) Even when I used an unfocused beam the pizza stone didn't heat up as much as I would have expected it to.
Thinking back we could have had better results from our cast iron Dutch Oven. (Being Opaque, Black, and Cast Iron)
If you could avoid using heat sinks as containers/platforms I think it's totally practical in a pinch..
There was also a kid (I know others have too, he just stuck in my mind) that made a solar reflector out of an old satellite TV dish by gluing a bunch of mirrors to it..
PLEASE DO be careful.. The sun is NO JOKE If you forget what you're dealing with in a split second you're either on fire or you've melted your arm off.. or worse someone else's!
Also, wear eye protection (welding goggles) ! Leather gloves and long sleeves aren't a bad idea either but neither will save you from contact with focused sunlight.
I've always gone the lazy route.. I'm not making 18-day compost but my piles do grow throughout the year. It's hard in Florida to get what I need all at one time for a heavily active pile.
depending on how much bulk you have make multiple piles.
1. Every winter I bring home deciduous leaf litter by the truck load (I rake it at work, vacant lots, advertise at work for co-workers leaf litter) I bring home AS MUCH as I can..
I'm like a squirrel looking for nuts.. If I see it on the side of the road and I have a means to bring it with me.. it comes to the compost.
I spread out the dry leaf litter over my garden to insulate the soil for the winter and put whats left, after running it down in the lawn mower to chop it up, in my 4-5 'rabbit wire' compost "bins".
2. I never (have the ability to) get greens and browns at the same time.. When the leaves are falling here.. the grass isn't growing. So I have to wait until the rainy season to get my bulk greens.. at which time I can spread them across the multiple bins.
3. Of course throughout the year all my kitchen waste goes into the piles.. And yes the local wildlife loves it.
The cats and dogs keep the small stuff away and the larger critters (raccoon / opossum) they are actually quite amicable with.
4. I turn them whenever I can't find anything else I would rather do..
This usually leaves me with a mixture of leaf mold and composted material by the end of the summer..
You may be able to figure something out that works for you.. Composting for me is an investment in time, not labor.
Also, try to compost where you want to plant the next year as anything that leaches out does wonders for the soil directly underneath the pile and it saves you from having to cart your compost all over the garden.. I just topple over my piles and spread them out in place and plant directly.
I've thought about this too in the event that the municipal sewer didn't work or the septic got full and there was no hope of it being evacuated.
Assuming that your primary goal is sanitation and not worried about nutrient loss it would be a great idea..
That is how we processed human excrement on deployments in the Military with two exceptions:
1. We used JP-8 Diesel fuel to burn it down to ash.
2. Wouldn't dare use it for anything.
My only personal consideration would be turning it into bio-char.. and not burying it on my suburban lot due to drainage/sanitary concerns.
It's material that you would just be flushing down the toilet anyway. Pun intended..
If I had land I would definitely look into composting it for a wood lot / orchard soil amendment.
Ha! forgive my bad terminology. I clearly meant 'modern' practices in place of traditional. I'm familiar with the way my father would build a house and put a roof on it, the way the army corps of engineers would build a house and roof it..
Please understand that I am trying to wrap my head around the most important part of shelter through that lense.
I understand that Cobb structures don't utilize moisture barriers, in the walls, however a roof can most definitely be defined as such. Unless we're talking about thatch.. That's a whole different story.
Which is why i ask. Maybe i didn't phrase it right.
Is it the "aspiration" of the walls and sheer thermal mass of the structure that keeps condensation from building on the ceiling/walls when the sun hits the roof..?
I'm just trying to figure out how the roofs on many of these structures are working without a ventilated, insulated, air gap. Seems to me the roof would have little thermal mass and heat up quickly.. Causing the ceiling underneath to sweat without the air exchange.
I haven't seen this addressed anywhere (Maybe it's not an issue). I just had to ask to satisfy my curiosity.
Subject says it all - I'm researching cob building due to the high availability of sand and clay in my area and have yet to see anyone explain the process of roofing a cob house in any specific detail.
Are the roofs your building on your cob houses traditional in function and construction?
Example: Ventilated soffits under eves to wick moisture away from the moisture barrier (that is the roof) utilizing Truss and Timber with insulated voids?
Traditional building practices leave room for an attic space with, generally fiberglass or blown cellulose, insulation between the trusses. I'm not noticing the same practice being used with cob.
A lot of what I'm seeing from places like CobWorks, Barefootbuilder and others appear to be flat wooden surfaces on some sort of sloped truss (be it 1"x6" or roundwood) abutted up to the load bearing walls with no air exchange or insulation.
I can't help but to think that these roofs sweat profusely due to temperature differences..
What am I missing?
I would like to plan on using tin sheeting on plywood laid on trusses leveled out onto the cob structure but my thought process won't deny the lack of ventilation and the possibility of condensation buildup - especially in our humid environment.
Also, how do you go about fixing the roof to the cob structure to ensure the roof isn't blown off in high wind conditions? I've seen adobe construction where anchors for the trusses are actually molded into the wall. But I've seen other videos/imagery which show the roofing process where the roof is simply laying on the walls with no explanation of anchoring..
Could anyone please clear this up for me? I feel as though I'm missing something of high importance here.
Edit: Just realized those pictures may be copyright.. If I'm violating some agreement that I didn't read please delete them.
That sounds very political.. My garden is where I go to escape the political world.
I prefer to look at it as "doing what works"..
There's no denying that what the Permaculture advocates and practitioners are doing exactly that: What works.
You going off on a tangent into shades of purple and browns; much like holding hands and singing hippy-dippy songs or doing group yoga before putting in work and talking shop is a waste of energy.
If it works for you fine.. but don't invite me to a purple only meeting.
If you are approaching skeptics don't use the political jargon, don't identify what brand of "do-nothing" farming you prescribe; they don't care if your a purple purist or a brown mud-pie elitest because they don't even know what your talking about.
Respect is earned through results and by golly you've earned it. Identify systems that are in somewhat in alignment and slowly poison their well with the splendor of the spoils of your labor, so to speak.
Breaking down each discipline and erecting barriers and assigning everyone and everything into groups is what divides community and turns it into an echo chamber where nothing gets done.
The first youtube video I saw of Paul Stamets I rolled my eyes at a comment he made.. but then he dropped what I took as us-vs-them divisiveness and blew my friggin' mind.. had me enthralled with the rest of the video.
My religion is life and God is my provider.. All people and ideas are welcome at my table. That's how I view the garden, anyway.
Hey that is really cool idea, thanks for looking out!
I don't know if any of the arborists in my area subscribe to that site but it's cool that it's there in the off chance they do.
I've had no luck with the power company in the past three years requesting drops from them.
My neighbor got 7 whole truck loads two days after he signed up (for the power company drops).. I've got zilch. So it comes down to the luck of the draw, I suppose.
Honestly, you would have to review your HOA guidelines to understand the nature of carport restrictions.. And if it's not covered under the HOA agreements then I would assume it's fair game BUT they generally don't like it when people build things without floating a plan for it by them first.
HOA's each practice their own particular brand of communism and each one is different.
Even simple pergolas can be beautiful as long as they aren't barren. Please, dear god, don't let them say they are fine with a pergola as long as it doesn't have anything growing on it.. I see that EVERYWHERE; people spend hundreds/thousands of dollars erecting pergolas and do absolutely NOTHING with them.
Drives me insane.. Mexican Flame Vines are $3 at the big orange box.. buy one! I might actually start guerrilla gardening those pergolas..
Luckily I live in an unincorporated neighborhood.. I have some neighbors with Jasmine 2ft thick (they never prune it) on theirs and another with passion flower vines growing.
I'm building a knee high wattle fence this weekend so my pups don't run across the street.. I'm sure a HOA would go berserk if they saw a wattle fence.
The pergola (to match the wattle fence) is planned for the sunny side of my house near the A/C so I can shade it with Muscadines in the Summer and leave it barren in the winter.. Assuming my muscadines actually sprout this coming spring. If not i'll put it off until they do.
I thought the same when i dumped my worm bin (aprox 8-10k worms) out into my heavily Mulched garden. From time to time i find a red wiggler in the leaf matter but not in the numbers i would have expected given their exponential growth in the worm bin.
Putting them in an active compost pile is a bad idea due to the heat. And finished compost wouldn't do them any favors either.
I had the best results in the bin outside/inside doesn't matter as long as the sun isn't beating on it.
As kids we used to pluck the flowers and suck the drop of nectar out of them. I would say it's about as invasive as Mexican Flame Vines..
They are prolific growers and spread easily but are just as easy to keep in check.
Birds, Ants, Butterflies all loved the stuffing out of it.. and as far as I remember (in Florida) it never had any issues with pests.
that's exactly what it is. i asked my neighbor, she's"the butterfly lady".. sadly i put it in the bulk compost heap instead of on her pipevine plant. When i went out to find it he had already moved on.
My county operates a storm water facility that creates oodles of algae that they scoop off with an automatic rake..
It piles it up about shoulder high over the course of the month and they spread it out to compost it.. I was so excited to see this..
Then I found out they use it at the landfill to cover garbage because packaging it and selling it is "cost prohibitive".
my beds are bordered by oyster inoculated oak logs. the beds them selves are mulched with oak leaf, wheat straw, palm fronds, grass clippings and pine straw.. (i.e. any organic matter i find for free that is chemically unmolested)
when pulling out weeds (invasive runners, dropping roots & rhizomes) I've noticed that the mycelial network has spread through out the entire garden.
i don't know if it's the oyster mycelium or not but fungal decomposition is definitely going on in my beds.. which was the ultimate goal.
i have yet to see a mushroom fruiting anywhere in the garden so, i can't even begin to identify them.
there's plenty of decomposers running around in and around the logs as well. Wood lice, worms, slugs, ants.. and plenty of lizards and other predators around to keep them in check.
I have had reasonable (1) success cloning mycelium at home in mason jars..
I purchased the spawn plugs from fungi.com and figured I would attempt to keep it alive as long as possible as I collect a lot of wood I find while I'm out and about. (Mostly Oak, Pine, Sycamore and Maple)
They had a buy three special so I did.. I ordered Chicken of the Woods, Pearl Oyster and Shitaki..
I saved one plug of each and put them in jars of Pasteurized (2) Coffee grounds, Oak Wood (from drilling the dowel plug holes) sawdust, and Pine Sawdust (from the wood shop, mostly reclaimed pallet wood run on the jointer).
All of my Shitaki jars are dead (mold contamination)
My Chicken of the Wood Jars are stagnant as I used Pine Shavings. fungicide used on pallet wood most likely? (Didn't have the proper logs.. should have stuck to easier mushrooms for my first attempt but I got carried away the order button was shiny).
My pearl oyster Mushrooms have taken off.. All of the logs I plugged were successfully inoculated. However, most of my jars didn't take.
I only have 3 jars, out of 13 I would consider a success and 1 where you can see it took hold but it looks funky.. I don't like funky.
(1) Reasonable success for me means it didn't cost me anything and I got at least a few positive results
(2) My Pasteurization consists of simmering jars of the medium in a pressure cooker for 3 hours.. No clue what the temperature is.. *Shrugs*
Okay, spring is here.. I went out to check on the growth of my Barbados Cherry tree.. It's covered in growth alright.
Any suggestions? I was thinking I should dust with DE as soon as things dry out but those little scale (Aphids?) things don't move around.. yet. They just sit there..
There doesn't seem to be any damage to the leaves.. yet - but I'm sure this tree will be devoured in short order given the quantity and diversity of the bugs inhabiting it's new growth.
I decided to leave it alone for now in hope that predators move in to clean up some of the mess. I did see a few Lady Bugs and a Golden Tortoise Beetle milling about but they weren't actively eating anything.
I'll probably go out this weekend to manually remove some of them if the population hasn't been reduced by other means.