3 more pictures This arch top form is not here or I would have shown it. Make the arch top like a pizza oven. Don’t cut the bricks. Fill in the tapered gaps between them with cast-able refractory cement
I just did this test on my first heater at my place .I t held a paper towel right above the chimney on the roof . My hands did not even get warm, paper did not burn or discolour.. Just like the tests you see of people holding white cloths up to their tail pipe when running on HHO.
This is the finished smaller of 2 heaters in a large barn. This one does not have an oven. The bricks have a white pattern on them and is not mortar. The stove top will be where the tools are sitting. Next I will give out the exact fire brick layup so any one can copy this if they choose to.
Thomas I will give out exact brick layup build details soon. Pictures of the finished heater will be up tomorrow. The lower end is the fire box, The cook top is not shown, The second opening is for an oven. This is the larger of the 2 heaters.
The concept for my arch top vortex fire box came from watching these videos of conventional wood stoves injecting massive amounts of preheated air.
On my first heater there are air inlets at both rear bottom corners. They can get blocked by ash so on my second heater they were moved to the top rear corners. One of them goes directly into the fire channel. On my 3rd and all following heaters the air will come in through 8 holes equally spaced on each side at the bottom edges of the arch top. Like the above stoves I want as much combustion as possible to take place in the fire box. I have included a picture of how a large vortex forms in my arch top fire boxes. The fire goes up one wall over the arch and down the other wall. I will get a better picture of this huge vortex soon. I am also showing a picture of the double vortex in the bottom of the riser. That same picture shows the riser to be perfectly smoke free. To my complete surprise another builder just said my fire boxes were too big, it's impossible for me to have a double vortex, the preheated air was coming in at the wrong places, the riser is too short, smoke would come out of the riser and go back into the fire box, the masonry shell is too small, its impossible to be burning clean or efficient, and I have never seen a RMH performing correctly!
On Tuesday I will post pictures of the finished second heater. We are going to wait 28 days for the masonry shell mortar to cure before testing.
I am well along in building the first of 2 vortex fire box masonry shell heaters in a large barn. There will be a large cook lop over the fire box. The 49 inch high riser is inside a 24" x 29" x 7 feet high shell. The fire channel is in the back left rear comer and makes a 90 degree turn to keep the foot print small 3 feet x 5 feet. There are 2 fire channels going into the riser. The upper smaller one is to keep smoke from building up under the arch top and coming out when the door is opened. I implemented this change on my current heater and performs as designed to. The burn box is quite large and has preheated air coming in through pipes at the 2 top rear corners. I am well along on the outside paver brick facing and bell. In follow up on another post of mine for this build there was no need for insurance or inspections. I just have pictures of the unfinished fire brick lay up. More in about 2 days.
I have started seeds and am now growing plants using W.M. T8 lights that are 6500K . I have 4 4ft fence post with 8 3"net pots in each tube. Its a top feed drip system on 50% eb and flood duty cycle. I will add a second level to it soon. I started the seed in rapid root plugs by soaking them overnight in NS. I put the in the net baskets surrounded by Hydroton. I let them sit in a covered tray of NS. For the chili person dont let the room temp go below 65F. I am using general hydroponics bio thrive. The seeds started coming up in just 4 days. Spinach, Kale, Swiss Chard, Basil , Oregano, I am now starting the next seeds right in my system. I will be selling theses systems soon.
Designing all forms of vertical batch box heaters including heating water and an oven to bake in. How to properly lay-up large walls of both firebricks and red brick for bell construction. Also how to deal with building inspections and insurance.
I have been contracted to build a bell type heater similar to the one Peter posted on 4-25. It is going into a 30' x 30' barn. The barn is brand new and in Bonners Ferry, ID. The owners want to know what is required for insurance and building inspections for these heaters, or how to get around them?
The 3rd question is for Peter or who ever else knows. What mortar was used for the fire bricks on the inside wall of the bell heater posted on 4-25? Can I make my own high temp. mortar cheaper using our local Lincoln 60 fire clay as one of the ingredients and if so I need a proven recipe?
If I had seen this design when building my hybrid horizontal water tank bell heater I would have used this simpler method instead. Nice clean design -. no tanks, no cob, small footprint, looks good,
To our amazement one morning there was a "heat signature" coming out the roof flue pipe 12 hours or more after the fire was out! When the heater burns clean the exhaust is clear but you can see the heat waves just above the flue. That is what it looked like. Do I need a flue dampener to keep from loosing heat from the mass to the outside long after the fire goes out? Or should I just close the stove air inlets?
This is an update on my hybrid heater after 4 months of intense use. A description of my build can be found elsewhere on this forum. It is a vertical design with 2 horizontal water tanks and a very large horizontal burn box.
I have had to make 2 minor changes to improve draft at start up.
The first was to enlarge the rectangular hole going into the riser so the top of it is even with the top of the burn box to get draft started quicker and keep smoke from coming out at times when opening the door.
The second that I did today was remove the pipe connecting the 2 tanks. There was no way to clean the inside of that pipe and ash was piling up under the opening and restricting gas flow. There was only a few inches from the bottom of the pipe to the bottom of the tank. A diagram of construction is in the main thread.
Today I cleaned out both tanks for the first time. There was just 6 cups of black acrid smelling fly-ash and no creosote.
I got an early harsh test with the polar vortex temps of 0- 20 degrees for 2 weeks. Due to not much insulation here and many windows the wood use went up a lot. If temperatures stay above 30 degrees then wood use is very minimal and sometimes I can go a day or more without a fire. Its usually a small fire about every 12 hours. It's very easy to maintain a constant 70 to 80 degrees. With my old metal wood stove it was never warm in the morning and I would always have to start a fire first thing in the cold. Never again and that’s really awesome! I haven’t tested the oven yet for baking bread. I’m very happy with this build and would do it the same way next time.
With current fall temps. I am burning 1 or 2 small pallet wood fires a day at 12 hour intervals. A friend is going to copy this for his greenhouse. I would make just one small change now on the second time around. I would make the opening from the fire box to the riser taller and have it go from the floor all the way up to bottom of the fire box arch. Then I would put a removable brick in the bottom of the hole for access to clean out the bottom of the riser. This will aid drafting and keep smoke from building up at times at the ceiling of the burn box. Otherwise very awesome. Very mild and even heat distribution in the whole room. Its a totally different feel from a metal wood stove.
I have been using my heater for a week or 2 now and am ecstatic and raving over it's stellar performance! Over 24 hours ago I made a small fire just using cutoffs from a friend who is building a shop. It quickly went up to 80 degrees and maintained that for 24 hours! Now it's 75 degrees and will not start another fire until tomorrow. It's amazing how long the brick work stays warm. This radiant heat feels so much better than a wood stove.
I did some temperature measurements with a digital laser device. Burn box on the fire - 925, burn box door - 525, middle of bottom tank - 385, middle of upper tank - 285, flue exit out of the upper tank - 145, on the roof exiting the flue 124.
The burn box arch top turns the flames into one huge vortex. They go up on one side, along the top, half way down the other side and then out the back.
A friend is also quite impressed with it and wants to copy it before snow falls.
Others are waiting for the first pizza made in the oven LOL.
Cost so far with a lot of free materials around $400. I just need to finish the brick work and back filling with cob.
I would say if you have a j-tube style then get rid of it and change to a batch box style like I just did. I see your location is NW Montana, you are welcome to see my build and have a demo of it running. I'm north of Sandpoint and south of Naples. Alan
Yesterday I installed the burn box door so my heater is operational even though the brick work is not finished. Yesterday around 5pm I put 2 half logs in the heater. This morning it's 75 degrees inside. Oh the " warm feel" of success!
Nothing was welded, the tanks are just bolted together with the 4 braces. The pipe connecting the 2 horizontal tanks was a very close fit and sealed with black masonry cement. The clean out pipes and exit flue pipe where dog eared with half of them on each side of the hole, then screwed on and sealed this masonry cement. The bottom horizontal tank is just sitting on top of the vertical one. The hard part was cutting all the holes in the tanks.
The vertical tank is filled with 3 inch rocks. There are 2 holes in side of the tank for heat flow one at the bottom and one at the top. The smoke does not go into the vertical tank. The smoke goes up the riser into the bottom horizontal tank, then into the top tank at one end and exits the top tank at the other end. There are 8 inch clean-outs on the ends of each horizontal tank
For bench style systems I would put a water tank over the riser and surround it with a brick wall to hide the tank, leaving space between them. The tanks on the floor could be inline or side by side or both.
I think more efficiency will come mostly by a lot of preheated air added like in the newer secondary burn wood stoves. As far as shape goes just a longer burn tunnel and riser should be OK with the added air.
At one time I was working in the sawmill industry drawing up co-generation burners. The burners were big round tanks with air pipes coming in tangent to create a corkscrew vortex flame.
The other day I watched a video of a guy who was dripping waste oil into his double barrel stove. Any opinions on doing that as I am willing to try it myself on my RMH.
Paul asks - "any other ideas" ? Yes, if I were to build a horizontal floor system from what I learned in my hybrid build I would try this first. I would use used water tanks and or propane tanks instead of ducts for better air flow and easier clean out. Less total length of run could probably be used due to the larger surface area per length. I would form a wall around the tanks with red bricks and back fill with gravel to save both time and money in making cob. The bricks can be dry stacked and surface bonded with surface bonding cement on the inside surfaces. No masonry skill is required. Then I would from a red brick wall around the barrel up to it's top to hide it. There would be enough space between the barrel and the brick wall so maintain it's function of quickly cooling the inside air so it sinks down. The top of the barrel could still be used for heating water or cooking.
I have been trying to find a cheap wood stove on Craigs to get a door for my heater. I almost had one for $50. Today I got a Vogelzang barrel stove kit at our L.H.W.S. I will use the door and sell the legs and damper. I just have to make simple flange to mount it.
There is one small error in my build. The top of the smoke exit in the back of the burn box is lower than the top of the burn box so smoke can come out the front when opening the door. I need to drill a hole through to let the smoke into the riser.
I did away with the J tube altogether and just have horizontal batch burner that will except 24 inch long logs. Any one who has cut fire wood to 16 inches long will appreciate that. My opening is 12 H x 14 wide and I am trying to find a used wood stove door with glass in it. I will make a door mounting frame around the opening with angle iron.