What I see as being easiest is clear out any dead and sick trees first and see what space you have to work with, after that you can pick a location that is mostly cleared.
For the hoop house try to use stumps as anchor points, why remove them when they can become part of the frame.
Digging up the stumps will get you where you want to be fastest but I would cut the stump to the ground and cover with compost and soil to make a raised bed and plant into that. Most crops should be fine planted next to the stump or on top depending on the root system and how tall the mound is. All you are doing it making hugelkultur but some of the wood base is already there.
I'm hoping to collect a large amount of walnuts this weekend from my farm and will be processing them the following week.
One method I have heard of to remove the hulls is to use a paint mixer on the end of a drill. Place walnuts in a bucket about 1/4 to 1/3 full and cover with water, mix with paint mixer. The hulls should float up pour off hulls and excess water then dry the walnuts.
I think this year I will crack by hand with a bench vice but I would love to have an assisted way of doing it like in this video.
If any one has suggestions for cracking the nuts in a large volume of quickly let me know.
I have been working on gathering a list of plants that are and are not tolerant of juglone since the property that I purchased last year has several acres planted in black walnuts.
I rushed to post the list I have created from about a dozen sources. In the future I will update the formatting and add more information such as what is edible but for now here is a list of plants and juglone tolerance.
Just go ahead and plant the seeds, do not worry about stratifying the seeds as winter is cumming and that will do the work for you. It might be a good idea to mark the places that you planted the seeds using flags tractor supply has them in 4 colors.
When planting seeds in one "spot" space them a few inches apart. When you have a location that no trees sprouted in you can transplant in the fall from one of the other locations and limit damage to the neighboring trees.
If the fruit is not good on one tree there are several options for it like feeding to pigs or chickens even using the wood to smoke and grafting on to the tree.
I like "Permies Out of the Box" above but I think that the "ermies" needs to be moved to the left so it connects more to the P. You could move it over and add an out line to the "e" so it stays defined.
Geoffrey Levens wrote:Only potential issue is as water kefir ferments it gets more acidic. At some point the acidity stops the fermentation. Adding small amount (pinch) of baking soda can help some and allow the critters to work longer
I do not think that it stops the fermentation but it slows down just like in a sour beer. Sour beers are aged 6mo-a few years although most of that is to mellow out some of the flavors and allow the slower fermentation processes to finish. If I were to brew this I would be taking hydrometer readings till they stayed consistent for a day or two or take a brix reading to make sure most of the sugar is fermented.
From what I can tell it is the same alcohol but can contain 0.5 - 3% ABV.
A Coors light contains 4.2% ABV if you want to test that it is the amount of alcohol you will need to dilute the beer.
For example 12oz of beer and 88.8oz of water will be 0.5%.
Here are a few easy conversions for you using ratios
1:7.4 is 0.5%
1:3.2 is 1%
1:1.8 is 1.5%
1:1.1 is 2%
1:0.68 is 2.5%
I did some quick research to find a recipe it looks like usually the amounts are.
¼ - ⅓ cup unrefined sugar
2.5 - 3 cups spring water
¼ - 1 cup of water kefir grains
For my calculations I'm going to use 2c of brown sugar is 1 lb (it is actually 2 1/4ish to a lb) and not add the molasses. There are 16cups in a gal so increasing every thing by 5.3x to make a 1 gal batch the numbers are.
If fully fermented will contain about 4.9% ABV. From me reading kefir can only get to about 3% ABV. I'm assuming that it will take longer than two days to ferment all the sugar beer normally takes 8-14 days to finish.
If you are wanting to try a 2% ABV try 4.3oz Br sugar
If you are wanting to try a 3% ABV try 6.4oz Br sugar
Rose Lee wrote:Can we skip some of the boiling to reduce fuel consumption? Can we utilize hay boxes in the process?
Q: Can we skip some of the boiling to reduce fuel consumption?
A: Reducing boil time will work most beers are 60min boil this can be reduced to 30 min but you will have to adjust the time you add hops check out http://brulosophy.com/ he is doing some great tests including this exactly.
Q: Can we utilize hay boxes in the process?
A: Yes, but I think it would only work for the Mash/steeping step. If you have a fancy system to brew that has an electric heating element in the pot you could do the whole brew in one but you will need to keep the pot uncovered. It needs to be uncovered for two reasons: 1. Covered it is way more likely to boil over ask me wife how I know that. 2. The more volitional compounds that you want to drive out of the beer will drop back into the wort (unfermented beer) and can give off flavors.
Purchased yeasts are used for a few reasons you know what you are going to get, some handle higher ABV, or give a banana flavor, more fruit flavor, handle higher or lower fermentation temp, ect.
Yeast does not make a beer sour but bacteria in the beer (wort) does usually, Brettanomyces is one strain of yeast that does add a sour flavor. The beer can be fermented without any yeast but use bacteria additions. Lactobacillus and Pediococcus are the two bacteria that are commonly used to sour a beer.
I have thought about trying to ferment a beer using the sourdough starter we created year ago.
I would recommend using an airlock when doing this to reduce the amount or o2 entering the container that will keep the brew from oxidizing that can cause off flavors. Also I would assume that this will take longer to finish than brewing an ale. Ales take 2-3 weeks to finish once the yeast becomes active.
Depending on how long it ferments and the types of bacteria it might have a bit of a sour taste like a lambic beer.
A week ago I brewed a root beer other wise a sassafras tea with sugar and California ale yeast added. At the end there will be very little to no sugar left it will be converted to 3% ABV, I will have to add a sweetener at the end before I carbonate it. Since honey is not easily fermented I will be using that and capping the bottles for 2-3 weeks possible longer it depends on how well it carbonates. I also have a 1 gal batch that I made with the second run of the ingredients. It is a bit lighter and is more bitter but I'm using a ginger bug to try fermenting that one but after 5 days there is not much activity in that one.
Nick Kitchener wrote:I was just wondering how it would survive the washing machine...
It is considered a "leather" you do not wash leather you clean/condition leather.
I do not have a scoby so I cannot attempt this. If I did I would make a cover for my axe if the material will be tough enough for that.
If some one tries it see if applying a drying oil to one side will help with water repelling or if the oil destroys the integrity of the material, by only coating one side that will allow it to breathe and release the moisture it absorbs.
I have been looking for a while and have only found two options recommended for a foundation for cob. First dry stack stone second dry stack urbanite.
What other options have people found?
Would a poured concrete foundation work?
How about a block foundation?
Is there anything extra that needs to be done if not doing a dry stack foundation?
I'm hoping to build a 400-500 sqft cob house this year the North and West walls will be straw bail. I have not finished reading The Hand-Sculpted House but I'm working on it.
The reason that I want to use other materials is because they will need to be trucked in and I do not have a truck currently so as few deliveries as possible would be great. Extra block would be used to build a cistern or two that would be used to hold rain water and as part of the heating/cooling system low temp hydronic.
The two that I go to that are somewhat related is
http://EcoModder.com - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, and modifying vehicles for better MPG
http://EcoRenovator.org - Home Improvement methods to increase efficiency and utility of your home
If I were to have that much WVO I would turn it into Bio-Diesel and use that to run a motor and not take the extra step of building a gasifier. Building a burner like that would be more of the bottom half of a gasifier.
Can other combustibles be used in a gasifier? I do not mean paper and other similar items but could fats/oils be used in the chamber like wood?
I figure that wood would need to be used along with other materials but if some wood chips were soaked in used cooking oil or something similar. I ask because I want to build a gasifier in the future but would still need to have a way to dispose of oil from processing. I don't think that I will have enough to make it worth my time to convert it to bio-diesel.
We do not have japanese honeysuckle from what I can tell japanese honeysuckle is a vine with the fruit being black. What we have is a bush with red fruit, I will work on identifying what variety it is later this year but it is a bit hard to pick 1 from 180 varieties.
In the future I will have bees on the farm and chickens but I live 80min from the farm so I'm not doing much that will need attention at first. (Working of getting everything ready to build.)
The honeysuckle is only located in the under story. When chopping and dropping I will be dropping them at the site where they were chopped from, so if they root it will be competing with the original plant. Later I will go back and do it again, all during this time I will be adding other plants in the area to compete.
Can we include the states in the description of each region so we post in the correct region. I ask because in KY it depends who you are and what map you are looking at for a region I consider KY to be in the middle east but that is not a region. Also if you look at almost any map that includes anything east of TX it usually has KY grouped in.
I use that coolant in my diesel at about 90% coolant since it is much better than ethylene glycol and recommend switching all vehicles over to it when changing coolant. (I will not go over why I use 90% instead of 50/50mix in this post.)
But... I like the idea of using an insulated container to hold heated water for when it is in the temp range that water will freeze but its not cold enough to cool the blade. Checking the blade temp with a IR thermometer several times and you might find that a short 1-3 second pause between passes might be enough to keep the blade from over heating.
I'm only worried about the honeysuckle and want to reduce it and disadvantage it.
My current plan is to chop and drop the honeysuckle using it as a mulch. From there I would like to plant other plants to take its place. We have plenty of black berries and wild rose on the property so I would like to use other plants.
This summer I purchased over 20 acres with most of it being wooded (untouched for 30 years). For more info go to my 20 acres BTW it is Zone 6a. I'm going to try and make some time tonight to update the site with more info and pictures.
We are in the process of planning what we want to add to the forest this spring/summer. Our goal is to enhance the forest and correct erosion problems while adding more edibles. We are going to try to leave as much of the forest untouched but we do have some areas that are over run with only one species such as wild grape, honey suckle, sassafras and several large dead ash.
So we will be clearing opening some small sections to add diversity. For a list of what we have found naturally growing check out Crazy Acres Plant List the list needs to be updated with about 12 more trees there should be about 37 trees listed.
What are some suggestions for good shade/partial sun plants?
The suggestions do not have to be edible but that would be nice. There is a lot of clay in the soil but I have not seen much in the way of plantain. Once in the forest the only ground cover type plants I have seen is some grasses and ferns.
I have been into Bitcoin for about a year and I continually look for different ways to generate Bitcoin (BTC). When I would find a way to get free or bonus BTC/items I would keep them in a Notepad document. I finally decide to place what I found in an HTML and placed the page on my website.
I loved the video and was glad to see an environment that is closer to what I live in.
Taking care of the grasses with tilling, I believe that it is only a shallow till to breakup and expose the rhizomes.
What I have found to help control the crab grass that we have here is in the spring do not cut the grass. If there is a patch of grass you do not want break it up with a shovel to expose the roots and dry it out. Since you have not cut the grass the grasses you want they will shade out the crab grass some and produce seed. Once the grass has gone to seed I will cut it dropping the seed to compete with the unwanted grass. Once all the grasses have started growing I will selectively not cut patches around the crab grass. That all pertains to lawns.
In my garden and berms the only things that I have found to help is hand pulling and shade.
1. What I do is hand pull any runner I see and try to remove all of it, If there are no trees close by I might use a spade to cut around the edge this will make it into two plants but the one in the garden will be smaller and hopefully easier to remove when it pops up.
2. Plant everywhere make sure that when your plants are full size that they will cover almost every area. If you find that there are going to be empty areas toss some more seed for a ground cover.
3. Leave easier to remove running plants. I have found on my property what I consider one on the best competitors to crab grass "Creeping Charlie" some know it as "gill-over-the-ground". It has a broad leaf that sits 1-3 inches above the ground that gives good shade. When you want to plant where it is grab a handful and pull, its roots are shallower than the grass and can be used medicinally.
Why do they have to use paypal? I would like to purchase the book but it will cost me about $150 due to having holds on my account since someone initiated a charge back almost two months after the sale (they received the product). Hopefully that issue will be resolved soon so I can purchase the book.
Nick Kitchener wrote:It is expected that the metering systems for energy supply will be fried and will take months to replace (in a regional scenario), so free gas for all. But the downside is that your furnace will most likely be fried too.
The first thing that you will need to do is audit how much energy you use. You might need to manually check the wattage of every thing you use and total the time every thing is used getting your average KW.
Alternatively you could use the billing info from your utility company but if you have electric heat, stove, and and AC it will be higher than you need if not running those from a battery bank.
I just looked at the stats from my utility company and the average for the last 13 months is 16.98kw daily. If I exclude the months that the AC is on the avg is closer to 15kw.
I have gas heat and stove but we do use electric oil filled heaters over the winter so that is giving me higher numbers than would be needed.
When would you recommend going to a higher voltage system? I have not decided if I will run a whole house from batteries in the future but I find it likely that I might, depending on what will be viable to generate electricity on the property.
I should have been clear on the lighting, I will not actually be using incandescent bulbs but CFLs or LEDs (LEDs are still ~$9 each in my area). I was sizing the system with a worst case scenario in mind so 300w for 6 hrs realistically that would be 110w that I would be using and still have room to charge my laptop 65w. So by building it for 300w for 6 hrs but only using 100w for 6hr I would have 66% left.
As for batteries my end goal will be to get GC2 batteries. For now I was going to use flooded starter batteries since I can get them for about $16 and will get $10 back when I have them recycled. Other than the price the reason that I was look at going that way is the batteries will only be sheltered from rain and snow but essentially sitting in a wooden box field.
I typed the message then listened to the podcast.
I just purchased some property there are no buildings or utilities on the property, I'm planning on purchasing a used generator on craigslist (~$150 for 5kw) and getting some used 12v car batteries. I currently have a battery charger I believe that it is <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AM8BF4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000AM8BF4&linkCode=as2&tag=louisvhomest-20&linkId=UI5DJ2EZQ3HJW7EO">Schumacher 50/10/2 Amp Starter/Charger</a> I hope to use it to charge the batteries. (I will have a shed to house everything.)
My current plan is to have enough back up to run a stereo and 2-3 75w lights (300w total) for 4-6hrs. Then run the generator to charge the batteries or to use high power items.
I know it is not good to be running used batteries but this will just be till I need more power and start setting up a full battery bank to power the house that I will start building in ~2yrs.
Now my questions:
1. If I go with a 24v system is there any potential problem running two chargers. One to a parallel bank of 2 12v and the other to the second parallel bank that will be tied in series for 24v.
2. In general gas generators are they DC motors that convert to AC or AC motors that are conditioned to 120v?
I know I had a few more questions but I work phone keeps ringing.