To me the most important thing you mentioned is LAND. So decide what it is you want to do on the land then look for a place that has the land and zoning that will allow you to do whatever it is that you want to do. If you buy the land first, before you look into use, you may own a place that doesn't allow "those mud huts." My highest priority when I bought land was to have no zoning, no restrictions, no easements. This will allow you to do everything else you want to do. Water is very important but if there is rain you should be able to get water. Petitioning the government every time you want to do something can be a full time job. Check property taxes too. Taxes can be so high that you spend all your time trying to get the funds to pay.
The plant doctor at MWSU called it small ragweed. It seems that some call it common ragweed. The seeds have been used for protein and oil, but I have never tried it. I have pollen alergies and kill as many of the small and large ragweeds I can find, that grow at my place.
It is a suggested that you earmark a couple of plants at the beginning of the season for seed saving. Don't pick ANY pods from them to eat - just pick the crisp brown pods at the end of the season. Don't feed them, or water them unless it is very dry - as this can encourage leafy growth rather than pod development. There is no point in picking green pods as the seeds are not mature enough at this stage.
Did you know you can save the roots, overwinter in a frost-free place, and replant next year? Runner beans are perennial, but are frost sensitive, so die back in our climate. However, if the roots are dug up and kept in suitable conditions, the plants often get away early and crop faster. If you grow a lot of beans, this may not be a practical option, but you could try it with one or two plants perhaps. Store the roots in a frost-free place, buried in slightly moist sand or leaf mold, or something similar.
It seems everything that is good for us, also ends us in the long run. Solar radiation, foods and oxygen all needed for life, poison us give us cancer and age us. It seems to be a matter of what kills us the slowest is best for us. Most nutritionists agree that beans are one of the healthiest foods on the planet.
Toxicity levels are hard to reach -- It would require a person eating approximately one pound of beans for each pound of their weight at one sitting.
Is this bit referring to all toxicity or just the cyanide mentioned in the sentence before?
Also, is it referring to cooked or raw? Looking at the structure of the paragraph, I'm inclined to think cooked as mentioned in the sentence prior.
Yeah I had questions too. I'm assuming cooked correctly also. What other poison do you think is in the beans? I am assuming that the cyanide like chemical that is bound in the hydrocarbon, is the only poison in the bean or they would have mentioned any other poison. The enzyme inhibitor wouldn't be a poison and it is destroyed in cooking. Near the top I added the link to the Utah University article. It has other info there too.
There is a lot more cyanide in rice than in beans that isn't denatured with cooking. I like the idea of beans and corn meeting the needed protein requirement. It seems that there is cyanide in a lot of foods. So I still eat some rice and store rice for emergency use. Consumer Reports recommended limiting rice to a few servings a week in 2016, then retracted it the next month. It seems that the health benefits of eating whole grains outweighs any negative of the small amount of cyanide.
Legume (Bean) varieties such as: Adzuki, Black, Black-eyed, Black Turtle, Garbanzo, Great Northern, Kidney, Lentils, Lima, Mung, Navy, Pink, Pinto, Small Red, Soy, and Split-pea can all be dried and stored.
Quality & Purchase. For the most part, dry beans are graded U.S. No.1 (best) through U.S. No. 3, based on defects. Lesser quality beans are generally graded “substandard” or “sample”.
Packaging. Like most stored foods, beans are best stored in the absence of oxygen and light. Oxygen can lead to rancidity of bean oils and light will quickly fade bean color. The packaging choices are #10 cans or Mylar-type bags. Canning jars are suitable for smaller quantities providing the jars are stored in a dark place. Oxygen absorbers should be used to remove oxygen from the packages to extend shelf life and minimize off-flavors.
Storage Conditions. Beans in normal polyethylene (food-grade) bags have a shelf life of 1 year or more. Like most stored foods, colder storage temperatures will increase shelf life. When packaged in #10 cans or Mylar-type bags, with the oxygen removed, they have a shelf life of 10 or more years1. A 1BYU. study indicated that pinto beans did experience a slight loss of quality during storage. However, samples that had been stored up to 30 years had greater than 80 percent acceptance by a consumer taste panel for emergency food use. The study concluded that pinto beans should be considered acceptable for use in long-term food storage efforts.
Nutrition & Allergies. Dry beans average about 22 percent protein in the seed, the highest protein content of any seed crop. They contain all essential amino acids, except methionine. Methionine can be obtained from corn, rice, or meat. Beans are an excellent source of fiber, starch, minerals and some vitamins. Some beans have a human digestion enzyme inhibitor. This enzyme can cause a nutritional deficiency if the beans are eaten raw. Cooking destroys the enzyme. Most beans naturally contain cyanogens4. These are sugars with a cyanide component attached (C-N). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) allows levels of cyanide in dried beans up to 25 ppm. Small amounts can be handled by the human liver and are not toxic. Cooking will also help break down and remove the cyanide.Toxicity levels are hard to reach -- It would require a person eating approximately one pound of beans for each pound of their weight at one sitting.
Shelf life. Scientific studies on vitamin loss in dried beans during prolonged storage could not be found. The loss would be expected to follow similar patterns as other long term stored foods where vitamin degradation occurs after 2-3 years and most vitamins are no longer present after approximately five years. Storage at warm temperatures will accelerate vitamin degradation. The other nutritional components (proteins, carbohydrates, minerals, etc) should remain unchanged during long term storage.
Use from storage. All dried beans, except lentils and split peas, require soaking in water for rehydration. Typically, 3 cups of water is needed for every 1 cup of dried beans. Allow beans to soak overnight and then rinse them in clean water. To cook beans, cover rehydrated beans with water in a stock pot. Simmer for 2-4 hours until beans are tender. Once tender they can be spiced and used in cooking recipes. As dried beans age the seeds become harder. This results in longer rehydration and cooking times. At some point, the seeds will no longer rehydrate and in that case must be ground as bean flour. One study3 found that small amounts of baking soda can help soften beans during soaking. Note: There is a quick soak method that boils dry beans for 1 minute then leaves them soak for several hours as they cool. This method is not recommended due to the potential of foodborne illness bacterial spores growing. The heat activates the spores and the warm temperatures during cooling favors their growth.
2Hentges, D. L., C. M. Weaver, and S. S. Nielsen. 1990. Reversibility of the Hard to Cook Defect in Dry Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) and Cow Peas (Vigna unguiculata). Journal of Food Science. 55(5):1474-1476.
3de León, Elías and Bressani. 1993. Effect of salt solutions on the cooking time, nutritional and sensory characteristics of common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris). Food Research International: 25: 131-136.
I don't plant the cherry tomatoes on the same property as the Brandy Wine and the Mortgage Lifters. I don't know for sure if the Brandy and Mortgage do any interbreeding but I don't think they do. I fear that the cherry might interbreed and I wouldn't really know it happened for generations (plant generations).
Sometimes the summer planted tomato seeds germinate the same year that they are planted - these are doomed. Some seeds germinate early in the spring - these have all died in frosts. I want these to survive, just have had not been able to give enough care to allow them to survive. I always get some tomato plants that manage to germinate at the right time of spring, to survive. These plants are always stockier better looking plants than plants that are started inside and transplanted out. I see some local growers start tomatoes in 5 gallon buckets and set these whole buckets in the ground outside, when danger has passed - these always have larger tomato plants and sooner tomatoes than my direct seeded plants.
I direct seed open pollinated tomatoes Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter and cherry tomatoes. I plant them the summer and fall one year and they produce the next year. I am in NW MO so I think there is 150+ frost free days. Cherry tomatoes might be best for your short season.
thomas rubino wrote:No, I never did know the cost , I was just visiting when the shotcrete went on , I was young and never thought to ask. I'm sure a concrete spraying company could give an estimate with the known size. The other one will rust someday... but will it be a sudden problem ... no, whoever owns that land at the time will see it happening long before it would cave in .
OK thanks. Do you remember what he did to the bottom of the container?
thomas rubino wrote:I have seen several successful root cellars in the north wet made with 20' shipping containers (conex's), both had an entry way that allowed using the original metal doors . Both used a vent pipe at the back. One was then sprayed with shot crete , the other was just buried. Neither had any water issues no matter how wet the spring. I haven't seen either one in many years now but the concrete covered one i'm sure is good as the day it was installed... the other most likely is as well but i'm sure is slowly rusting .
Do you have any idea what it costs for the Gunite? That is the best idea that I've heard, However, there is a lot of info on internet that just burying a container can fail.
I have property where the ground is wet from water that comes from uphill as well as from rain. Every time that I plan anything underground, the answer keeps coming back as 1. Use the recycled tires and form a dome or circle walls or 2. Build on top of ground and berm heavily. I know there is controversy as to the used tires, but there are a lot of people that swear by it.
My dad lived through the dust bowl and the great depression. Most men didn't have jobs so they were bums.
They traveled around the country as bums and got whatever work they could. He said a dollar a day and a bowl of soup
was the wage and that was sun up to sun down. The bums would live in camps and each would ask people who had gardens
and/or jobs for hand outs. All the bums would bring whatever they could get and throw it in pot of water on wood fire.
They called this Mulligan Stew. If you've ever been hungry and poor, Mulligan Stew tastes pretty good.
If you've ever went for a while without eating, a pot of plain beans tastes better than steak.
I had several suggestions. I think my favorite is "Permie Seeds." It doesn't require a daily designation, so could be every day or miss a day or more.
Physical Seeds are something that we all deal with one way or another to grow food and shade. Seeds are also used metaphorically to represent ideas that we all talk about on this site. Someone says that they do something a certain way or have had an idea about doing something and it "plants seeds" in our mind or imagination. These seeds are the reason that I keep coming here to get ideas for my own applications,
Tyler Ludens wrote:I meant on that patch of land (but you knew that).
Far more elements slip downstream by the hydro-cycle. Most all the gaseous molecules from burning, will move "downstream" from where the wood is burned. Whatever solid molecules that are left
after the fire, are left behind. Different sources quote different compounds when testing ashes. Calcium carbonate, potassium, phosphate and trace metals are in ashes.
If wood burns efficiently, carbon dioxide and water vapor are the most gases in the exhaust. If a tree falls and rots - almost the same thing happens over time.
To purify water from chemicals and pathogens requires distillation. Boiling water will kill pathogens, but will not remove chemicals. Chemicals that have an evaporation temp lower than water will be harder to remove. I guess you could openly heat the water to near boiling then put a cap on and distill. A well or cistern should get you water that you can have for most uses. Maybe use distillation just for drinking water.
If you can figure out how to economically purify water let me know. With all the crazy things that the modern world has put into the food/water cycle, drinking water with some chemicals in it is almost certain. The municipal water has a lot more chemicals in it than the water you might get from a single farmer upstream from you. The city water company settles solids out of water then poisons the water to kill pathogens. Guess who gets the poison next?
Asparagus and stinging nettles. Berry bushes- blackberries, raspberries, strawberries. I like gooseberries and let them grow wild in the woods but haven't planted any in the garden because they are supposed to be bad for the evergreen trees. I am going to get some goji berries- haven't had time to plant yet. Fruit trees- Fugi apple is amazing. Nanking cherries don't require much care at all. I have peach trees and sweet cherries, also mulberry. I have Jerusalem artichoke and day lily plants but don't eat much of either- just feels good to have them around.
I put a little bit of turmeric and black pepper in soups and on potatoes. I love a lot of black pepper and turmeric on any kind of eggs. My favorite is to spritz organic EV olive oil on popcorn and a ho lot of turmeric and black pepper on the popcorn.. I eat popcorn this way almost daily. I sometimes add turmeric to green tea, but don't think I"d like black pepper in the tea- A drop or two of honey might be OK>
Pamela Smith wrote:I will be sure to add some clay to my trench pile. Clay is usually filled with many nutrients too. Thanks for the reminder.
You need to add a lot of clay to the sand. It's not the nutrients in clay that you need as much as the clay you need to build good soil. Good soil is made of clay, sand and humus. Humus is the dark organic matter that forms in the soil when plant and animal matter decays. Humus contains many useful nutrients for healthy soil.
Mike's book $50 underground house, was the first book I found in the 70's that dealt with underground houses. Back then the library only had 3 or 4 books dealing with alternate building. Mike had two of them.
How about early morning gathering large green leaves from dock or plantain or something you know what it is. Keep the leaves in a bowl near the loo with water on them. Add flowers or scents if desired. Use during the day and change in eve or afternoon. In winter or when the day leaves are gone... I'm going to guess dehydrated tree leaves used by the handful -keep a 5gal bucket by the loo.
I've used the mullein leaves with no problem, actually they are soft as silk. I have heard others say that it feels like the mullein hairs stick them in the rear. So I guess be careful if you try the mullein.
This recipe for herbicide might help. It isn't totally organic so might want to keep it off the garden area. (Probably want to keep off the garden just because it will kill plants.)
1 gallon vinegar
2 cups Epsom salts
1/8 cup dawn dish soap
Mix and then spray on unwanted plants. Is supposed to work as good as the best chemical herbicides on the market. (Captain obvious: Cutting the plant down or spraying in early spring will use less. If you spray on a 6 foot plant you might use a gallon on 10 plants.)
Vinegar is from organic source.
Epsom salt is naturally occurring but is not organic
Dawn soap is supposed to keep the vinegar/salt on the plant longer so any soap might work or might not be required at all.
Primitive tribes seem to wear only what they need for the situation. The primitive tribes are probably far more involved in a permaculture lifestyle that any of us will ever achieve.
Nudists probably have half the laundry than those who wear clothes all the time. Just like a lot of the ideas for energy conservation, perhaps eliminating a lot of the need for cleaning clothes, is a first step.
I didn't even know what a clothes dryer when I was a kid.
Kim Hill wrote:I am currently looking for land to build an earth friendly house complete with a permaculture food forest. I bet the book would be very helpful in pointing me in the right direction in choosing land. Thanks Cassie for considering me! Kim
It is good to ask this question before you buy land. Most buy the land and then find that there are restrictions, zoning and/or other barriers to doing what they want to do on their land. Restrictions might be placed on the land by a previous owner. Restrictions could prevent you from doing something or even require you do do something. Zoning is similar, but is usually codified by county or city laws. You might have to get permits before building or doing other things on your land. You might have to hire a professional to do certain work. These things are not impossible to deal with but are sometimes a pain and can be costly.
Easements also should be looked at. All easements are not bad, but some could present problems. If there are utilities on the land, the utility companies most likely have some kind of easement to access or repair their equipment (phone or light poles - buried water lines). If a neighbor has an easement to drive across your land or something, he may be a problem if you want to build a structure in a place that he has an easement to drive across.
I found land that had no zoning or restrictions. I recommend land without these things mainly because it is easier to do whatever I want. It is not always possible for everyone to get land without any zoning. Just check in advance that you can do with the land what you want to do, before you purchase.
Walt Whitman meets Henry David Thoreau. "Leaves of Grass" mixed with "Walden," yet with a modern twist. (Your city job/position contrasted with your country outlook and life.) Your posts read like prose and poetry. I would be honored to edit the English version of your book when you write it. In the meantime I'm humbled and honored to read your posts here. Living sometimes the only book we have time to write. Tim, thank you for sharing your life here. Ronie
Julia Winter wrote:Now that we are settling into Portland, and I am once again earning a paycheck, we are pondering a different car for me.
Two cars we are considering are the C-Max Energi and the Leaf EV.
I could go on, but I'd like to hear what you think.
The Leaf is "Consumer Reports" pick for EV's for 2014. It gets 129 MPGe (miles per gallon equivalent). The Tesla is better, but the price tag is $90,000. The Leaf has a track record since 2011. If you average less than 100 miles per day consider the Leaf. I love the Leaf and am hooked on EV's forever. I get 110 miles per charge in town and it is about 106 for hwy driving. There is a van and a sports car scheduled to be released April 2014 - I don't know if they have been released yet, don't care as the money I save on gas with the Leaf, vs the gas vehicle I was driving, pays for the Leaf.
I'm hoping for a decent electric truck in the near future.
M Sotherden wrote:total newbie here. Is it possible to have a Rocket stove used indoors (think workshop that is used everyday) without exterior venting? Plan to get CO detector, etc, but cannot at this time vent it externally. What are the risks? I camp outdoors for an average of 6-8 wks a year, so minor smoke inhalation etc is nothing new. but would prefer not to poison myself
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) is not a poison to animals. It WILL KILL you however by excluding Oxygen (O2) from you. A CO detector is a Carbon Monoxide detector and will not tell you if CO2 is present.
If you burn any hydrocarbon fuel in an enclosed area you need to exhaust it outside. As your room fills with CO2 the air in the room will be forced up and the CO2 is heavier and will fill the room from the bottom up.
You will need to heat with electric or solar if you can't exhaust hydrocarbon burn to the outside of your enclosed space.
Sue Rine wrote:These are so beautiful! It makes me want to go out and get a credit card just to buy some! Just onesmall thing...isn't the plural of fungus fungi not funguses? Or is funguses an American spelling? (I'm from NZ)
You are correct - fungi is plural of fungus.
The vernacular plural for fungus is funguses, but I'm not sure of the spelling. The plural of fish is fish, but I know a lot who say fishes.