Vinegar. I keep white vinegar in a spray bottle - for bucket or urinal rinse with rain water and if smell remains then spray vinegar in and smell is gone. For common flush toilet - use a bucket of water to flush (the bowl won't fill back up) spray toilet with vinegar and add a cup to the little water that remains - use toilet brush. If you have extra stuck on stains - leave the vinegar on and spray more vinegar on several times. For septic systems - after you use the vinegar and clean the stain, add baking soda to the liquid to buffer the acid of the vinegar.
Thank you, Pearl Sutton, for your story and the kind words... I hope you can get all the light you need. I wish I had the stuff it took to always be self employed - I just worried that I couldn't make the tax bill and heat and... Years ago people lived on faith day to day earth to mouth - I guess it took me longer to get there...
I did notice that Karen. I like the 40 shades part too. My sis has SAD too.. Does turning on a lot of bright lights help? or maybe having a green house to hang out in on sunny days maybe? I love the Spring most of all too...that is why I am thinking of selling everything and moving to Lake Chapala Mexico - where it is Spring all year long.
Karen Donnachaidh wrote:Good for you! I love a story with a happy ending. It takes number crunching, but it takes a lot more (as you know). Strength, courage, faith, determination...... P.S. I love green!
Thank You Karen! When asked what is my fav color I always say Green same as everyone else's favorite color.. I guess some could make Gold as a favorite...but if they were stranded in a world with one color - you can't eat gold.
I must have missed this area years ago...not sure how that happened. When I was a kid I found the Seed catalogs that came in the mail and I started dreaming of transforming my parents little country spread into a Garden of Eden. I thought of all the penny items - veggies and fruits and flowers and how they would be beautiful and practical and the kid just believes he could plant these and spend the rest of the time enjoying beautiful flowers and eating perfect apples, grapes and such. Dang this story is already to long so lets skip a few decades,,, .. Looking back at idealist me, I see that I have only changed a little. I still look at the future through rosy lenses sometimes. Reality and making a living and life gets in the way of dreams... I still ran towards a goal of making this country Eden someday, even though I knew that it takes a lot more than pennies and harvesting... Twenty years ago I bought some land in the country and began to plant. I found out quickly that I didn't have time to be gone 6 days a week for work and try to spend a few hours working the dirt each week... Working getting a paycheck each week does have advantages. Money to invest and grow and plan for a day that I would not need a job and could quit the rat race and live the dream - the country garden - the peace and quiet. -----
I envy you folks that can get a place in the country and work the land day to day with little money and hoeing the dirt and making food for the day. I think of taxes and bills and heating in Winter - water and sun in the Summer- and having enough to get though... I often wonder if you don't have a much happier life than someone like me who has to crunch all the numbers get everything paid first and then be able to live the farm and country life. ...
Several years ago I started crunching numbers as to how much longer I have to work to "afford" to quit regular paycheck and live the dream. I looked at several options and crunched the numbers... and I found out that I was ready. In 2016 I gave notice and ended working for someone else and started working for myself all the time. I could've done it a long time ago.
Hey Ben, Hope it is warm where you are. Sorry, if all you want to do is make enough for phone, then my advice is little value to you. Unless you might think of a way to make a simple mechanical device (clothes washer is coming to mind) you are well in the right zone to have a simple electrical charger for your situation. A deep cycle battery and generator might be more expensive than setting up a barrel that can be turned with your "free" muscle energy that does the laundry.
Best of luck and warm weather to you. Hope to see a follow up as to your experience with the muscle power.
How much electricity do you want from the pedal machine? If you want just enough for a few LED lights and want to spend the hours pedaling, maybe might be worth it.
I think it is a waste of time and resources to generate any decent amount of electricity with pedal power. It's possible, but quite involved. You are far better off hooking the bike to the appliance and grind your grain with a mill. Pump some water, hook it to a sharpening wheel, hook it to a makeshift washing machine. ...................
If you think you can make an 8 ft diameter wheel that runs perfectly straight and spins perfectly and most likely has a fly wheel that is also perfectly true, and you want to spend a lot of hours manually spinning electricity, you might get enough electric to run a few things.
I think finding a temp job for a week and getting a solar panel or two then instead of pedaling electricity you spend time with other chores and let the sun do the generating. 25 years of sun electricity for a weeks work in 2018.
ronie dee wrote:Water H2O isn't what causes rust, it's oxygen O2 that is the culprit.
While this is true as far as that goes, corrosion of metal is an electro-chemical reaction, and requires the water to create an electrical circuit. Without an electrolyte somewhere in the mix, cold steel is unlikely to rust even when exposed to oxygen. This is actually how rust-preventive paints work, because it's easier to keep moisture out than keep oxygen out.
I hope that OP is still not planning to lay the cans sideways as Creighton Samules' post that the cans should be upright is correct. Possibly they should be inverted with the tops down. That said, I think that using cans. filled with cob/clay/dirt, isn't a great way to build a house. It seems that earthships and earth bags - even rammed earth would be far better and tried and proven. There is nothing that will keep these cans from rusting. It will be major labor intensive and probably expensive to even try to keep the cans from rusting. The structural support from the cans is very temporary - so don't count on the cans being structural support for your roof in the long run.
Almost every action that we experience in the universe is a electro - chemical reaction. Rust is an oxidation reduction reaction. Oxygen is reduced and iron is oxidized. Water is not an electrolyte. Electrolyte=mineral=salt. Minerals in the water are electrolytes.
Earthships, earth bags, rammed earth, cob, cord wood, all seem easier and cheaper than steel cans. You can build with cans but do you really want to?
To me the most important thing you mentioned is LAND. So decide what it is you want to do on the land then look for a place that has the land and zoning that will allow you to do whatever it is that you want to do. If you buy the land first, before you look into use, you may own a place that doesn't allow "those mud huts." My highest priority when I bought land was to have no zoning, no restrictions, no easements. This will allow you to do everything else you want to do. Water is very important but if there is rain you should be able to get water. Petitioning the government every time you want to do something can be a full time job. Check property taxes too. Taxes can be so high that you spend all your time trying to get the funds to pay.
The plant doctor at MWSU called it small ragweed. It seems that some call it common ragweed. The seeds have been used for protein and oil, but I have never tried it. I have pollen alergies and kill as many of the small and large ragweeds I can find, that grow at my place.
It is a suggested that you earmark a couple of plants at the beginning of the season for seed saving. Don't pick ANY pods from them to eat - just pick the crisp brown pods at the end of the season. Don't feed them, or water them unless it is very dry - as this can encourage leafy growth rather than pod development. There is no point in picking green pods as the seeds are not mature enough at this stage.
Did you know you can save the roots, overwinter in a frost-free place, and replant next year? Runner beans are perennial, but are frost sensitive, so die back in our climate. However, if the roots are dug up and kept in suitable conditions, the plants often get away early and crop faster. If you grow a lot of beans, this may not be a practical option, but you could try it with one or two plants perhaps. Store the roots in a frost-free place, buried in slightly moist sand or leaf mold, or something similar.
It seems everything that is good for us, also ends us in the long run. Solar radiation, foods and oxygen all needed for life, poison us give us cancer and age us. It seems to be a matter of what kills us the slowest is best for us. Most nutritionists agree that beans are one of the healthiest foods on the planet.
Toxicity levels are hard to reach -- It would require a person eating approximately one pound of beans for each pound of their weight at one sitting.
Is this bit referring to all toxicity or just the cyanide mentioned in the sentence before?
Also, is it referring to cooked or raw? Looking at the structure of the paragraph, I'm inclined to think cooked as mentioned in the sentence prior.
Yeah I had questions too. I'm assuming cooked correctly also. What other poison do you think is in the beans? I am assuming that the cyanide like chemical that is bound in the hydrocarbon, is the only poison in the bean or they would have mentioned any other poison. The enzyme inhibitor wouldn't be a poison and it is destroyed in cooking. Near the top I added the link to the Utah University article. It has other info there too.
There is a lot more cyanide in rice than in beans that isn't denatured with cooking. I like the idea of beans and corn meeting the needed protein requirement. It seems that there is cyanide in a lot of foods. So I still eat some rice and store rice for emergency use. Consumer Reports recommended limiting rice to a few servings a week in 2016, then retracted it the next month. It seems that the health benefits of eating whole grains outweighs any negative of the small amount of cyanide.
Legume (Bean) varieties such as: Adzuki, Black, Black-eyed, Black Turtle, Garbanzo, Great Northern, Kidney, Lentils, Lima, Mung, Navy, Pink, Pinto, Small Red, Soy, and Split-pea can all be dried and stored.
Quality & Purchase. For the most part, dry beans are graded U.S. No.1 (best) through U.S. No. 3, based on defects. Lesser quality beans are generally graded “substandard” or “sample”.
Packaging. Like most stored foods, beans are best stored in the absence of oxygen and light. Oxygen can lead to rancidity of bean oils and light will quickly fade bean color. The packaging choices are #10 cans or Mylar-type bags. Canning jars are suitable for smaller quantities providing the jars are stored in a dark place. Oxygen absorbers should be used to remove oxygen from the packages to extend shelf life and minimize off-flavors.
Storage Conditions. Beans in normal polyethylene (food-grade) bags have a shelf life of 1 year or more. Like most stored foods, colder storage temperatures will increase shelf life. When packaged in #10 cans or Mylar-type bags, with the oxygen removed, they have a shelf life of 10 or more years1. A 1BYU. study indicated that pinto beans did experience a slight loss of quality during storage. However, samples that had been stored up to 30 years had greater than 80 percent acceptance by a consumer taste panel for emergency food use. The study concluded that pinto beans should be considered acceptable for use in long-term food storage efforts.
Nutrition & Allergies. Dry beans average about 22 percent protein in the seed, the highest protein content of any seed crop. They contain all essential amino acids, except methionine. Methionine can be obtained from corn, rice, or meat. Beans are an excellent source of fiber, starch, minerals and some vitamins. Some beans have a human digestion enzyme inhibitor. This enzyme can cause a nutritional deficiency if the beans are eaten raw. Cooking destroys the enzyme. Most beans naturally contain cyanogens4. These are sugars with a cyanide component attached (C-N). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) allows levels of cyanide in dried beans up to 25 ppm. Small amounts can be handled by the human liver and are not toxic. Cooking will also help break down and remove the cyanide.Toxicity levels are hard to reach -- It would require a person eating approximately one pound of beans for each pound of their weight at one sitting.
Shelf life. Scientific studies on vitamin loss in dried beans during prolonged storage could not be found. The loss would be expected to follow similar patterns as other long term stored foods where vitamin degradation occurs after 2-3 years and most vitamins are no longer present after approximately five years. Storage at warm temperatures will accelerate vitamin degradation. The other nutritional components (proteins, carbohydrates, minerals, etc) should remain unchanged during long term storage.
Use from storage. All dried beans, except lentils and split peas, require soaking in water for rehydration. Typically, 3 cups of water is needed for every 1 cup of dried beans. Allow beans to soak overnight and then rinse them in clean water. To cook beans, cover rehydrated beans with water in a stock pot. Simmer for 2-4 hours until beans are tender. Once tender they can be spiced and used in cooking recipes. As dried beans age the seeds become harder. This results in longer rehydration and cooking times. At some point, the seeds will no longer rehydrate and in that case must be ground as bean flour. One study3 found that small amounts of baking soda can help soften beans during soaking. Note: There is a quick soak method that boils dry beans for 1 minute then leaves them soak for several hours as they cool. This method is not recommended due to the potential of foodborne illness bacterial spores growing. The heat activates the spores and the warm temperatures during cooling favors their growth.
2Hentges, D. L., C. M. Weaver, and S. S. Nielsen. 1990. Reversibility of the Hard to Cook Defect in Dry Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) and Cow Peas (Vigna unguiculata). Journal of Food Science. 55(5):1474-1476.
3de León, Elías and Bressani. 1993. Effect of salt solutions on the cooking time, nutritional and sensory characteristics of common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris). Food Research International: 25: 131-136.
I don't plant the cherry tomatoes on the same property as the Brandy Wine and the Mortgage Lifters. I don't know for sure if the Brandy and Mortgage do any interbreeding but I don't think they do. I fear that the cherry might interbreed and I wouldn't really know it happened for generations (plant generations).
Sometimes the summer planted tomato seeds germinate the same year that they are planted - these are doomed. Some seeds germinate early in the spring - these have all died in frosts. I want these to survive, just have had not been able to give enough care to allow them to survive. I always get some tomato plants that manage to germinate at the right time of spring, to survive. These plants are always stockier better looking plants than plants that are started inside and transplanted out. I see some local growers start tomatoes in 5 gallon buckets and set these whole buckets in the ground outside, when danger has passed - these always have larger tomato plants and sooner tomatoes than my direct seeded plants.
I direct seed open pollinated tomatoes Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter and cherry tomatoes. I plant them the summer and fall one year and they produce the next year. I am in NW MO so I think there is 150+ frost free days. Cherry tomatoes might be best for your short season.
thomas rubino wrote:No, I never did know the cost , I was just visiting when the shotcrete went on , I was young and never thought to ask. I'm sure a concrete spraying company could give an estimate with the known size. The other one will rust someday... but will it be a sudden problem ... no, whoever owns that land at the time will see it happening long before it would cave in .
OK thanks. Do you remember what he did to the bottom of the container?
thomas rubino wrote:I have seen several successful root cellars in the north wet made with 20' shipping containers (conex's), both had an entry way that allowed using the original metal doors . Both used a vent pipe at the back. One was then sprayed with shot crete , the other was just buried. Neither had any water issues no matter how wet the spring. I haven't seen either one in many years now but the concrete covered one i'm sure is good as the day it was installed... the other most likely is as well but i'm sure is slowly rusting .
Do you have any idea what it costs for the Gunite? That is the best idea that I've heard, However, there is a lot of info on internet that just burying a container can fail.
I have property where the ground is wet from water that comes from uphill as well as from rain. Every time that I plan anything underground, the answer keeps coming back as 1. Use the recycled tires and form a dome or circle walls or 2. Build on top of ground and berm heavily. I know there is controversy as to the used tires, but there are a lot of people that swear by it.
My dad lived through the dust bowl and the great depression. Most men didn't have jobs so they were bums.
They traveled around the country as bums and got whatever work they could. He said a dollar a day and a bowl of soup
was the wage and that was sun up to sun down. The bums would live in camps and each would ask people who had gardens
and/or jobs for hand outs. All the bums would bring whatever they could get and throw it in pot of water on wood fire.
They called this Mulligan Stew. If you've ever been hungry and poor, Mulligan Stew tastes pretty good.
If you've ever went for a while without eating, a pot of plain beans tastes better than steak.
I had several suggestions. I think my favorite is "Permie Seeds." It doesn't require a daily designation, so could be every day or miss a day or more.
Physical Seeds are something that we all deal with one way or another to grow food and shade. Seeds are also used metaphorically to represent ideas that we all talk about on this site. Someone says that they do something a certain way or have had an idea about doing something and it "plants seeds" in our mind or imagination. These seeds are the reason that I keep coming here to get ideas for my own applications,
Tyler Ludens wrote:I meant on that patch of land (but you knew that).
Far more elements slip downstream by the hydro-cycle. Most all the gaseous molecules from burning, will move "downstream" from where the wood is burned. Whatever solid molecules that are left
after the fire, are left behind. Different sources quote different compounds when testing ashes. Calcium carbonate, potassium, phosphate and trace metals are in ashes.
If wood burns efficiently, carbon dioxide and water vapor are the most gases in the exhaust. If a tree falls and rots - almost the same thing happens over time.
To purify water from chemicals and pathogens requires distillation. Boiling water will kill pathogens, but will not remove chemicals. Chemicals that have an evaporation temp lower than water will be harder to remove. I guess you could openly heat the water to near boiling then put a cap on and distill. A well or cistern should get you water that you can have for most uses. Maybe use distillation just for drinking water.
If you can figure out how to economically purify water let me know. With all the crazy things that the modern world has put into the food/water cycle, drinking water with some chemicals in it is almost certain. The municipal water has a lot more chemicals in it than the water you might get from a single farmer upstream from you. The city water company settles solids out of water then poisons the water to kill pathogens. Guess who gets the poison next?
Asparagus and stinging nettles. Berry bushes- blackberries, raspberries, strawberries. I like gooseberries and let them grow wild in the woods but haven't planted any in the garden because they are supposed to be bad for the evergreen trees. I am going to get some goji berries- haven't had time to plant yet. Fruit trees- Fugi apple is amazing. Nanking cherries don't require much care at all. I have peach trees and sweet cherries, also mulberry. I have Jerusalem artichoke and day lily plants but don't eat much of either- just feels good to have them around.
I put a little bit of turmeric and black pepper in soups and on potatoes. I love a lot of black pepper and turmeric on any kind of eggs. My favorite is to spritz organic EV olive oil on popcorn and a ho lot of turmeric and black pepper on the popcorn.. I eat popcorn this way almost daily. I sometimes add turmeric to green tea, but don't think I"d like black pepper in the tea- A drop or two of honey might be OK>
Pamela Smith wrote:I will be sure to add some clay to my trench pile. Clay is usually filled with many nutrients too. Thanks for the reminder.
You need to add a lot of clay to the sand. It's not the nutrients in clay that you need as much as the clay you need to build good soil. Good soil is made of clay, sand and humus. Humus is the dark organic matter that forms in the soil when plant and animal matter decays. Humus contains many useful nutrients for healthy soil.
Mike's book $50 underground house, was the first book I found in the 70's that dealt with underground houses. Back then the library only had 3 or 4 books dealing with alternate building. Mike had two of them.
How about early morning gathering large green leaves from dock or plantain or something you know what it is. Keep the leaves in a bowl near the loo with water on them. Add flowers or scents if desired. Use during the day and change in eve or afternoon. In winter or when the day leaves are gone... I'm going to guess dehydrated tree leaves used by the handful -keep a 5gal bucket by the loo.
I've used the mullein leaves with no problem, actually they are soft as silk. I have heard others say that it feels like the mullein hairs stick them in the rear. So I guess be careful if you try the mullein.
This recipe for herbicide might help. It isn't totally organic so might want to keep it off the garden area. (Probably want to keep off the garden just because it will kill plants.)
1 gallon vinegar
2 cups Epsom salts
1/8 cup dawn dish soap
Mix and then spray on unwanted plants. Is supposed to work as good as the best chemical herbicides on the market. (Captain obvious: Cutting the plant down or spraying in early spring will use less. If you spray on a 6 foot plant you might use a gallon on 10 plants.)
Vinegar is from organic source.
Epsom salt is naturally occurring but is not organic
Dawn soap is supposed to keep the vinegar/salt on the plant longer so any soap might work or might not be required at all.