I just got my first heifers- all about 800lbs.
They came from a farm that only had barbwire fencing, no electric.
I ONLY have electric fencing, and it took 24 hours for them to learn this. In the process they ran through my electrified netting.
But, after that rough first day, they seem to 100% respect electric fencing- and my 48" tall electrified poultry netting.
It's been a month and I have had zero issues since the first day.
My question is this: How well do cattle associate the netting/fencing with getting a shock when it comes to new pastures?
I have an area I want to graze, but there is no perimeter fence.
I want to encircle it with the 48" poultry netting.
Obviously I'm not looking for someone to reassure me that my cattle won't run away, but I'm wondering if the change of scenery will stifle their respect for the fencing?
How much of their fear of electric fencing is inductive (applying to all fencing anywhere) and how much is strictly situational (since they are used to it in a specific area).
Anyone use electric netting with cattle- have any input?
A while back I posted a new topic "Grazing a Flerd- Feeding minerals without allowing sheep to ingest copper?", and somehow the discussion became a debate about how much copper sheep can ingest.
So I'd like to try and get back to my original conundrum.
I have cattle and sheep and want to rotationally graze them together (as a flerd).
I need to build a DIY mineral feeder that meets the following requirements:
1) Portable. Since it will be moved daily, I want it to be moved by hand- not by tractor.
2) Durable. Cattle and sheep are hard on equipement, so it can't easily tip, etc.
3) Weather-resistant. It will be ON PASTURE, so it needs to keep most elements off the actual mineral.
4) Dual-chamber. Since sheep mineral and cattle mineral have different levels of copper, I believe I need to make this feeder so that the cows get mineral (high) and the sheep get mineral (low), so that the sheep don't consume the cattle mineral containing higher levels of copper.
Any photos of DIY mineral feeders out there? Any suggestions for feeding mineral to a Flerd of combined Sheep and Cattle?
I am looking for suggestions on tooling for grading ground for fencelines.
I am going to be installing a couple miles of fencing over the next couple years. There are some areas in the pasture that have never had fence before and thus the ground has never been prepared for a fence line.
The ground contour on a large scale is actually quite smooth and even, but on a closer level there is a lot of bumps (dips and rises) and large rocks.
Since I want my fence to follow the ground decently, I need to smooth out the bumps and rocks so that line posts on 24.5ft centers will keep the high tensile wire a fairly even height above grade.
On the upside, I have a 110hp tractor to use for the right implement if you have any suggestions. It has a front end loader, so I know I can use it to scoop off bumps and pour that material in to the dips, but for a couple miles of fence line, that isn't realistically efficient.
Some things I started thinking of:
-Heavy Duty Box Blade with Shanks?
-Plowing the fence line multiple passes with a heavy duty subsoiler and then passing back over with something to smooth it?
Attached are a couple photos attempting to show the terrain. Again, on a grand-scale, it looks like super-flat ground- so no material "scooping and filling" needs to be done. But on a ground-level scale in a 10 ft run the ground can bob up and down 12-16"......
I am going to be purchasing some heifers soon and integrating them with my sheep.
Currently I am feeding my sheep a "sheep mineral" which does not contain copper.
Copper is poisonous to sheep, but necessary for cattle.
How do folks run these two species together and satisfy both animals requirements regarding copper / no-copper successfully?
I too live on exactly 120 acres, a mix of pasture and woods.
As already mentioned, Walter Jeffries is a great resource (Sugar Mountain Farm), check out his blog.
Additionally, Grant Schultz is raising Kune Kune pigs on his farm, Versaland, on primarily hay, forage, wild meats, etc. Worth exploring his videos as well.
The amount of land needed to truly sustain a domestic hog in a wild setting is a lot. You'd probably raise just a few on your entire 120 acres, and they'd do a lot of potential damage unless you managed them quite intensively.
The hogs will require more lysine in their diet than they will likely find. This is why Walter Jeffries supplements with Whey from a local dairy.
Additionally, the hogs will take a lot longer to reach slaughter weight.
I cannot yet manage my hogs over my entire 120 acres (due to lack of fencing) so I have to settle with raising them on 1.5-2 acres, in a rotational paddock system. They eat a ton of acorns, grasses, frogs, mice and worms, but I still supplement their feed with local Non-GMO corn/soy.
Until we all have 25-year established systems like Mark Shepard's, it would be wise to consider supplementing with high quality feed and then also growing a lot of feed yourself.
My hogs have been eating squash, pumpkins, beets and potatoes for the last 2 months- all surplus from what I grew in my market garden this year.
Additionally, I have a cluster of Jerusalem Artichokes that they haven't even been introduced to yet.
So, my opinion, if you want to raise the hogs in a decent timeframe 6-8 months, and can't manage them across your entire 120 acres, then build a system something like:
1) Supplement with high quality non-GMO or Organic feed.
2) Rotate the pigs and monitor their rooting so that you don't destroy the soil profile.
3) Grow a much bigger garden than normal and feed them the surplus and use them to "till" the garden for you. They will root out every last piece of remaining vegetation for you.
I am a couple days away from the backhoe arriving to help me bury piping for (2) heated livestock waterers and (3) yard hydrants.
I live in Zone 3b, so the recommended water line bury depth is 8ft to prevent freezing.
I am just now starting to worry about the possibility of backflow/siphoning in the event that I lose water pressure.
For anyone not familiar with a yard hydrant, there is a drain in the bottom of it and when the flow is shut off, the water in the vertical pipe is supposed to drain out below ground.
Additionally, I am installing (2) curb stop valves so that I can turn off water to the hydrants or to the cattle waterers separately. Since the cattle waterers don't have drain-to-waste holes like the yard hydrants, I am using a drain-to-waste curb stove valve so that it will drain when I turned it off and vented the waterers.
I am NOT worried about water siphoning in from hoses connected to the yard hydrants (I can easily install vacuum breaks).
I AM worried about water siphoning in from underground, where the drain ports are.
In theory, if I lost water pressure (lets say my pressure switch failed and shut off my well pump), then a vacuum could be created which could siphon dirty underground water (from my cattle area, i.e., not clean) in to my drinking water.
The simple answer is to install a "backflow preventer".
But, I need my entire plumbing system to be 8ft underground to prevent freezing, and I cannot seem to find any reliable underground backflow prevention units that I could use.
They all seem to need to break to atmosphere and typically are installed above ground.
Any suggestions on preventing the possibility of backflow while keeping my plumbing underground and reliable (i.e., backflow device that doesn't require routine maintenance)?
I recently moved to the North Woods, central Minnesota.
We have Wolves! And I suspect a lot, since I've seen them twice in daylight in two months.
I am forest-raising pigs. Currently I bring them in to an electro-net paddock during the day and put them back in a barn at night, because they are 80-100lbs and I strongly believe they could become someone else's dinner, not mine.
In addition to wolves, we have coyotes and Black bear- a lot of both as well.
Anyone have experience raising pigs outdoors in high-predator country? I know that my sheep would be sitting ducks, but what about pigs?
Any and all expertise would be appreciated.
Can they be left outside? If so, beginning at what weight/age?
I was recently walking my property in central Minnesota (zone 3b) and found a small tree/shrub with what appear to be nuts on it.
My first thought was "wild hazelnut", but the leaves do not look like hazelnut- more like oak?
Is it possible that what appear to be nuts are actually some type of insect cocoons or disease on the tree?
Thinking about relocating to Minnesota, and if we did, would want to raise pastured poultry for sale. Many states have "small processor" exemptions for poultry, grandfathered in. Anyone have any information on how friendly Minnesota is for this? I am from Minnesota originally but didn't know anything back then.....
I have been raising and processing American Guinea Hogs, a very high fat % pig. To make the most of it, we render the lard in a large pot over a burner.
After a couple hours, we ladel the liquid lard in to mason jars and seal them.
After just reading about some bad potato salad killing someone in the midwest (with botulism)- I got to thinking (worrying)- am I giving people lard that is unsafely preserved?
I assume this is a low-acid product, so is there a high potential for botulism?
Almost a year ago (May 2014) I posted some comments and pictures of our first 100% at-home hog slaughter and butcher. An American Guinea Hog.
Since then, we had butchered another AGH in July and then again in September.
In July we tried skinning it (not desirable, I know, but that's what it's owner wanted). This process was very difficult, but even more so, it made the butchering process a mess.
With all of that exposed, warm fat, the butchering made the entire table a slippery mess and I still haven't gotten the grease stains out of my cement garage floor.
In September, we again went back to pour-scalding: the best we could do with the equipment we had. We were trying to scrape thick, black hair off in to the darkness of night via truck headlights. Not a lot of fun, nor successful.
This winter I got a propane jet burner and a nice 55 gallon drum, which I cut the top off of.
We got the water to 145 deg F and lowered the hog half-way in to the water via a large engine hoist. After 3 minutes, we lifted it back up and then scraped the outer dermis and bristly hair off with our old, antique hog scrapers (thank you Ebay).
We then lowered the hog on to a clean wooden pallet, switched the gambrel from front hocks to rear and then raised the hog back up and scalded the second half.
Some air pockets seemed to get trapped, especially when the legs curled up to the hams (this led to pour scalding), so we had to use a sharp knife to "shave" those areas instead of being able to easily remove the hair.
Overall, the experience was tenfold better. Quick, easy, fun, rewarding.
We then eviscerated the hog, removed the head and then split it lengthwise in half. Each half was cinched in a large canvas game bag and left, hanging outside to cool off and go through full rigor prior to butchering the following day.
With skin-on, the butchering process was clean and the floor did not get covered in air-temp-rendered lard.
Just wanted to give some feedback from a recent class I took on swine slaughter from Brandon Sheard, proprietor and lead butcher of Farmstead Meatsmith.
I was first introduced to his slaughter and butcher methods from Paul's podcast # 260 "Homestead Butchering Q&A". Ironically, they were reviewing Pig in a Day by River Cottage, but Brandon's insights and counter-culture were infective enough to fully warrant a look at his videos, produced with Farm Run.
Quite a fantastic hat-trick of instructional (not to mention inspirational) videos.
Recommendation beyond all other recommendations (go check 'em out) www.anatomyofthrift.com.
With a little luck (and a wife who extended my leash far further than she should), I was able to take a class from Brandon on Vashon Island early in March.
We were up in Puget Sound for a wedding and I was able to actually skip the official ceremony, get up early and drive two hours to Vashon to help and observe the slaughter of two Tamworth hogs.
From the moment I inquired about the class (via email) to the point at which I left, the Sheards, both Brandon and Lauren, were hospitable and humble and the experience was excellent.
The class was informative, slow-paced and Brandon did a great job of allowing time for all questions to be answered- from the ridiculous to the tedious.
I only stayed for the first hog (reception to go to), but I loved it. So many details of hog slaughter that cannot be picked up from videos or essays.
From tying the anus properly (to prevent contamination of the meat), to what temperature to scald at, how to clean butchering tools, curing, etc.- It was all great and worth while.
Below are a few photos.
I highly suggest anyone with hogs or thinking about hogs, or who eats hogs, or eats meat (or doesn't eat meat), watch the videos. Respectful, artful and thorough. www.anatomyofthrift.com
I ground up about 20lbs of American Guinea Hog meat last weekend to make ground pork and various fresh sausage.
This was my second time around.
I have a hand-crank grinder and a kitchen-aid attachment.
Both times the cutter blades and openings would get clogged up with tendrils of stringy fat, which instead of getting ground, wrapped around everything until no meat came out, and everything inside was bound up.
I tried using chilled meat too.
It's a somewhat cartilege/fibrous stringy stuff.
Would sharpening my cutters help? So I just need better equipment? Has anyone else encountered this and found a solution?
When grinding turkey breast, no issue (because no fibrous fat).
I recently plumbed my washing machine to greywater feed 3 trees in front of my house, one of which is a fruit tree.
I bought "Honest" detergent, supposedly plant-based and "eco-friendly", but... who trusts advertising?
Any commentary on what even these "eco-friendly" detergents can do over time to the soil in the outlet area?
Are there better commerically-available detergents out there?
I am just "filtering" by having the outlet subterrainian in an upside down put in a trench that it mulched 6" deep and leading around each tree.
Back in May we did our first at-home slaughter, instead of hiring a mobile butcher.
I posted photos of the process and noted successes and failures.
We just butchered our third American Guinea Hog at-home in September, and I wanted to post more pictures.... and explain more successes, and FAILURES.
Failures are very important as they are the guardrails that correct us toward success. Not doing anything is "going over the edge".
It's best to start with the living pig itself...
I don't actually know if she had a name, now that I think about it.
In February my sow gave birth to a healthy litter of 6 piglets. I castrated one male to keep for myself, and sold the other five.
One of the five I had sold to my neighbor a mile down the road. They ended up getting attached to her and deciding they couldn't butcher her, but needing to get rid of her because she ate all of the duck and chicken eggs...
Who? Me? Sure, I'll take her back, nice and fattened. I raised her for her last two months at my house and then enlisted the previous owner to help me with the butchering process.
Even though it was only a .22 LR, one clean shot put the pig down peacefully without any pain or suffering.. We bled her in to a steel pan to save the blood for later.
We strung her up on a metal ganrty while having a fire going, heating two large caldrens of water for scalding and scraping off the hair.
Back in May when we did this, we had decent results- most hair removed nicely.
Not so much this time. The hair was tough and we had a poor succes-rate of removal.
Since this disappointing venture, I have purchased "To Kill a Pig Nicely" and FINALLY been convinced I need to make a set-up for dip-scalding instead....
Since we started the butchering process around 5pm, we capped the night off after scalding, scraping, eviscerating and head removal.
We then put a large canvas game-bag around each half of the hog and left them on the front deck to "chill" overnight.
After much fun playing music in the garage (until far to late), we awoke the next morning and began the dis assembly of the beautiful hog.
In June we did a hog and since it was not mine, the owner wanted to "skin" it, as opposed to removing hair.
Dealing with a skinned-hog is 3x's as hard as a scraped hog. A large greasy skinned pig makes quite a mess.
Keeping the skin on makes it a much cleaner and easy (thus less aggravating) process.
We wrapped various cuts in butcher paper (ribs, loins, shoulders, etc.) and set aside some for curing (bellies, ham, etc.)
That afternoon we ventured in to the Farmstead Meatsmith-inspired process of making blood sausage. (Not my first time, either).
In May we did the same, saving blood and fat and making this difficult sausage.
The texture was poor and the strong iron-taste didn't exactly sell itself to us folk who weren't starving or anemic.
But, my guests during this September butchering (after watching the Anatomy of Thrift videos, insisted by me *almost at knife-point*) wanted to try blood sausage themselves.
I humored them and low and behold, they made a blood sausage that was tenfold what mine was.... better texture, thus a psychologically better eating experience.
Still not what I'd call "good eating", but remember that I am no chef (and neither were they).
Alas, after a few days chilling in the fridge, I removed the bellies and took a shot at Pancetta. I had made traditional Amerikn' bacon with the past two hogs.
I rubbed the crushed juniper berries all over the salt and pepper crusted pieces of meat and let them cure in the fridge for 7 days.
After the waiting period was over, I took them in the garage and tied them tightly with butcher twine (slicing the hell out of my fingers with the fat-lubed twine in the process- fingers only have scabs now, whoo-hoo! healing!).
I then hung the pancetta in my kitchen for two weeks.
I took one down last weekend and made a marinara with it and a generous load of heirloom tomatoes from another neighbor.
No more from me, sleep beckons!
See the photos below and, of course, know that all of my inspiration for at-home butchery and charcuterie came from the Anatomy of Thirft videos.
Donate to thier newest Kickstarter!!!
The Farm Run production is Out of This World.
(Almost forgot to mention!!! I rendered 15 pints of lard from this small 100lb hog, as well!)
About 10 years ago when my wife and I were dating, we made candles- paraffin, melted crayons and some essential oils.
They were beautiful, but wouldn't burn probably, burned the wick down short and then would snuff themselves repeatedly.
We now have American Guinea Hogs and my biggest gripe is the high ratio of fat to muscle (at least 1:1, if not 1.5:1).....
Thankfully, Permaculture is always looking for solutions: Pig-fat candles!!!
We rendered 15 pounds of back fat, melted a bit of some old candles, some crayons for coloring, and a bit of essential oils....
Same problem! Burns for 5 minutes, wick gets short, then they burn out.
We made them in mason jars with commerical wicks.
See attached photos.....
My ratios of fat to old wax differed between candles (higher fat means a softer candle that isn't as stable at room temperature)....
All candles have the same problem.....
I've run in to some questions about plants in the Legume family.
I understand they work symbiotically with Rhizobium (bacteria in the soil) to create nodules on thier roots and allow the plant to "fix" nitrogen from the air (which is like 70%+ nitrogen) and put it in to the plant and roots, and thus put it in to the soil and make it available for other plants. (Did I grasp that right?)
I have read the Rhizobium (sp) is in very small quantity in most soil, so when planting legumes (peas, beans, clover, etc.), you must innoculate it.
....So I bought a bag of innoculant along with my bags of soil builder that I got from Peaceful Valley.
Now my questions begin:
1) After These beans/peas/clovers grow and die in the soil, will the soil still have the Rhizobium? If I let the legumes go to seed and sprout, will there still be the bacteria in the soil and will the cycle continue?
2) What about planting a tree like Black Locust? Do I need to "innoculate" the roots?
3) What about before you could BUY a bag of innoculant? Obviously these bacteria had to exist prior to mass-availability of commerical-bacteria-producing companies?
I'm eager to know more about the relationship between these two and our "dependency" on bags of innoculant.
4) Can a permaculture system become independant from these commercial bacteria? Can the system start producing its own?
When I first saw the "title" of this thread I figured I had written it.
I have the exact same problem on one of my Hugel Beds. Complete utter infestation of Pill Bugs.
I also have had an insurgence of Pill Bugs in my greenhouse in the last year.
Thus far, I have no GOOD solution. I've used many "symptom-treatments" such as killing them by attracting them to an area and then gathering them and throwing them away, but this is not a solution.
My suspicion, in my case, is something to do with the unnatural environment I've made in the case of my Hugel Bed and Greenhouse.
I am in Southern California where rain is incredibly scarce, and to grow anything in this bed (it is in year one), and of course in my covered greenhouse, is to irrigate.
I suspect the dry hot sunny climate mixed with frequent moisture provides an imbalance or niche that these bugs are proliferating in. Not confirmed, however.
I also think they came in my greenhouse when I attempted to slow evaporation by covering my raised beds with wood chips. Again, a perfect pill bug habitat.
I let my ducks hit my hugel bed and have a plethora of lizards and wild birds, and even some toads, but these pill bugs still reign and destroy any seedlings.
When I used to live in Minnesota I would ONLY see pill bugs under stumps or other complete-shade scenarios. Here I am finding them running wild.
We butchered our American Guinea Hog two weeks ago. Since I didn't have a good setup for "dip-scalding", we did a "pour-scald".
Results were okay, but I think they would have been better if I would have submerged.
It was difficult to regulate temperature and some of the hair would "set", instead of loosen.
I think an old cast iron bathtub would be the best apparatus for submersion-scalding.
I'll have to watch for one on craigslist..... or remodel my bathroom and take that one.
Anyway, the butchering was very successful and delicious. Bacon is cured and smoked.
Both shoulders and a ham were cooked 24 hours after butchering for a potluck.
Thanks to the wonderful Guinea and her sacrifice...
Raw Milk- Interesting. Best I could muster in my area is to purchase raw goat's milk. If Adam sees this thread, would you think this has the same deworming properties as cow's milk? Also, when you say that raw milk worked on parasites for you- do you mean you or your hogs?
Diatamacious Earth- I've always been skeptical on this one... I understand how DE works when it is dry, but can't seem to believe it works once wet and in the digestive tract? Doesn't it function by shredding and dehydrating the exoskeleton of a insect? Any input on how it would work when digested, i.e., what is the process by which it kills worms/parasites?
Garlic Powder- I've long known of the anti-parasitic effects of garlic, so this sounds promising. Is the effectiveness of garlic POWDER very good, however? I would assume the bitterness and pungency of garlic is also what is very anti-parasitic about it. A clove of fresh garlic burns your mouth and stomach... garlic powder doesn't nearly as much, thus lower anti-parasitic properties? Based on the recommendation, I just ordered a 2.5 # bottle of it to mix with my hog food.
Rotational Grazing, Paddock Shift- This seems like the best, most preventative method, but sadly space and facilities do not allow it. KEEP ON ROCKING IN THE (PERFECT) FREE WORLD!!!
Thanks for the input folks.
Also, I mentioned tiny blackish/greyish specs in clusters in the white belly fat when I was cutting my bacon. Could this be parasites? Remarkably, I found very little about it on the net. I found a couple folks who found those spots in thier commercially-bought bacon, but nothing concrete about what it was. Below is a link to someone else's photo when they saw these in their Hormal bacon. Mine looked very similar....
So, this is my fifth year raising hogs on my small half acre.
The pigs only occuring maybe a 50x12 foot area, and I have a Boar, Sow and a pair for meat.
Obviously my area has to be getting "Pig Sick".
The first two years I fed them a conventional de-wormer.
The last few years I've done nothing.
I just butchered a 6-8 month old gilt last weekend, and while making bacon with the belly, I noticed small "specks" of greyish/black only in the fat.
I am assuming they are some type of protozoa, parasitic thing.....
I remember working at a fish cannery and frequently we would find parasites and worms growing in the fish "belly meat", not just the guts....
Since grazing and rotating are not options on my current plot of land, what would be good ways to preventatively treat for parasites?
What are (experienced) opinions on the commerical and harsh de-wormers? Alternative methods? How can diatamacious earth work in food if it obviously gets wet?
This is my fourth year raising hogs, but first year planning on processing my own from start to finish.
We will be butchering a 120lb American Guinea Hog.
My thought was to "dip" the hog in a 160 degree half-filled 55 gallon drum of water, over a fire using an A-frame and hoist/pulley.
My brother is flying out from Minnesota to partake in the festivities and experience the slaughter as well and his opinion is to do a "pour" scalding, using many metal pots of 160 degree water and pouring them over the hog.
Which would be a more effective method of loosening the hair? Which is more practical for the backyard homestead? Which is safer (for the humans involved) and (for the reliability of not f**king up the meat/hog?)
In his book Sepp Holzer Permaculture I believe he talks about using the fruit trees as windbreaks (protection) for the Hugel beds. I think they also feed off of the natural fertilizer supplied BY the hugelkultur beds since lots of hydration and fertility sink in to the valleys between the Hugelkultur beds.
I theorize (no practical experience, my few Hugelkultur beds are only a few months old now), that the biggest issue you would see is if the tree shaded the bed enough to preclude some varieties of plants from being able to thrive under their foliage.
That being said, this is yet more valuable small microclimates (the tree will provide some frost protection, will gather condensation and drip it on the plants, stimulate shade-loving plant-growth, etc.)
In my area (arid High Desert), I think trees intermingled in Hugelkultur will be a boon, because my evaporation rate is so intense.
If your area is wet or has high rainfall, then slowing evaporation is not as big of a deal.
I encourage you to read Sepp Holzer Permaculture, I really enjoyed it. I was also crazy enough to listen to the 20 hour Podcast review Paul did. (you can read the book in under 10 hours).
I also enjoyed the review and it was good to hear other peoples interpretations of the concepts in the book as well.
Any news? Has she farrowed?
This past winter we purchased 4 American Guinea Hogs. 2 of who ended up being pregnant prior to purchase (even though they were small).
The first one to start showing had the same symptoms you described, heavy breathing, a deeply-distended belly that almost rubbed the floor, etc.
(But we had no way of knowing when she was due!)
We left some bedding in the corner for her. We assumed she was still at least a couple weeks out.
Then one morning I went out to feed everyone before work and saw a chicken leg in the pig padock (I let my birds range through the pig paddocks to pick through thier droppings) and I first thought that a predator got in. It was a Cornish-Cross bird that I had let grow to egg-laying age. Nothing left but a leg and a few feathers.
Then I looked back in the bedding toward the pregnant pig and in the dark morning light I saw what looked like a "pig octopus", movement all around.... I got closer and there were 6 piglets crawling around her belly nursing.
We never heard a peep overnight, she gave birth all on her own.
That first night it was 23 degrees out and they all were absolutely fine. Since we were (are) new to breeding pigs, we added a heat lamp at night for the next 2 weeks as a precaution. Don't know if we needed it, but didn't want to risk loosing any of the litter.
All 6 piglets grew up and we sold 5. A very successful, unexpected pregnancy and birth. A fantastic sow with great instincts and ability.
The second pig, who was pregnant, was not so successful. She had poor mothering instincts and crushed 2 of the 3 piglets the first night and the 3rd the second night. I suspect part of this was because she was already probably an inbred pig, and her little was also probably inbred again- the guy we bought the pigs from had horrible records of breeding and didn't separate the gilts and male shoats.
I guess in a "survival of the fittest" sort of way, these two pigs helped us decide who would continue to litter for us as a sow and who would become the fresh pork in late Spring.
I have installed a few hog waterers that utilize a bowl and float. I have also installed a few of the watering nipples.
Recently I have noticed that the watering nipples have started to leak, and then water is collecting in to puddles underneath them.
(It freezes most nights, if this has any bearing).
I am planning on removing them and looking for debris in the rubber sealing area as a possible cause, but I have manipulated them and moved them around and tried to free any debris and they still leaked.
Anyone use these nipple waterers? Any experience with why they can leak? Input is appreciated.