The pump is on a timer that runs every half hour. As of the day this was posted I changed the size of the pipe covering the stand pipe to 3" diameter (from 2") and magically everything worked. For three days. Then back to my standing water problem. With the 3" pipe I notice that when water is just trickling through the stand pipe the 3" cover pipe is floating slightly inside the media excluder.
Please help. The bell siphon in our aquaponics setup has a mind of its own. Sometimes it will work fine, then, with no changes will stop firing and just trickle water out of the stand pipe. I've tried adjusting the speed of the pump and fiddled with different size pipes to cover the stand pipe. When I change the size of the cover pipe, MAGIC, it works again. Then, I'll check 30 minutes later, not working. If I reach in the media excluder and slightly move the cover pipe when it's overflowing, presto the siphon fires. What am I missing here?
Found one of our quail unresponsive this morning. She's not dead yet, but can't move and eyes are barely blinking and she's cold. Moved her away from the flock incase of disease. How long should I leave her, or should I just cull? We've only had a flock for about 10 months and I'm slightly concerned about eating a bird that might be sick. Hadn't seen any problems with her until today.
We have used the reflective bubble wrap insulation in the summer with great results. I just safety pin in to our curtains w/ the reflective side facing outward. It keeps the living room w/ large windows cool while getting full sun for the hottest parts of the day. I was able to source it used from work, don't know what the retail price is.
You'll have to check if it's permitted in your area, but kang kong (aka water spinach) would seem like an appropriate choice.I ordered some seeds through ebay to grow in a rain barrel w/ some fish & other critters this summer. I would check an asian market see if you could just buy some and root it( thought about that after spending $ on seeds & shipping). It would only be an option in the warmer months, being a tropical plant.
I did not use dried, it was fresh root, lightly washed, rough chopped, and covered w/ 80 proof vodka. The whiteish layer did resemble the picture above, but emerging from the bottom, from the pieces of root. I have checked it and all is clear now! Bubbles gone as well. I suppose since I had not been stirring it that the bubbles could have been the remnants of whatever microbes were left on the roots. From what I've been able to gather botulism cannot reproduce in alcohol 80 proof. If anyone knows otherwise, please let us know. I don't think I'm going as far as the construction of any stills, it's just a quart jar. Thanks for the replies! Perhaps the moderator should move these posts to a renamed topic so as not to derail the original thread.
This thread came to the dailyish email with perfect timing. I made my first echinacea tincture this fall, and was wondering what the hell I did wrong. It has white threadlike growth around the roots, almost resembling mycelllium. Also had a slight amount of bubbling, which concerns me. I would expect bubbles with any type of fermentation, but when submerged in vodka? I thought botulism would not be able to reproduce in that concentration of alcohol, but perhaps I was misinformed. I've been checking it and pondering tossing it, but thought Permies might be the place to get an answer. I'm sure there are more appropriate threads for this question, but here we are, who can help?
Both recipes listed above should work fine. Rather than follow an exact time from a recipe I go by taste at the approximate time, relative temperature is a big factor when making alcohol and can affect fermentation time. Instead of cheesecloth I use an old reusable coffee filter to avoid buying stuff. Lots of recipes call for fancy yeasts, but I've always used plain old bread yeast, wine snobs look at me cross-eyed.Good luck, and enjoy!
I personally relate to the second post in this thread, made by Mike Jay. I feel like "fictitious conversation #2" is the direction I'm personally having with people. It's the case of physical rewards that I can show people before I start to delve into teaching them things they would have thought insane without seeing the results first. When I can show people the food I've grown in plain sight in what they believe to be just a nice looking front yard flower garden it can open their minds to change. If I hadn't shown them the food first, my neighbors would simply tell me there's a law against gardening in front yards. I feel like that is the path some of us tread, others are on the pdc path, the website path, the permaculture community path, etc. I discovered permaculture because of paul's you tube hugelkulture videos, every time we show others the quantitative results we educate and change minds. So, here's to 200x more permaculture, whichever way we can.
I've started only using grocery store potatoes for planting. I get just as good results as seed potatoes. When they go on sale at Aldi a 10# bag of russets I believe was $1.49. 5# of red(my favorite and best producer for me) was also $1.49. That about covers the cost for the area I have available for potatoes. I just set them in the window for a couple days when they start to sprout, whatever doesn't want to sprout is lunch. The price for seed potatoes at the big box store just didn't come close, and buying in bulk isn't an option for a small property.
I may have missed it as I skimmed this thread quickly, but I didn't see anyone mention salsify. I don't let it "self seed" as it would dominate our small property being SO resilient. Rather, once it goes to seed I grab the seed heads and throw them where I want the next scattered planting. Works great on patches of "lawn" where I'm not supposed to grow food in the suburbs. Dandelions, plantain, lamb's quarters also work in this fashion.
Peter, leaves are an excellent resource, use all that you can. I currently rake into piles, collect w/ a leaf vac, then finish w/ a mulching lawn mower before applying to garden beds in fall. By spring almost everything is in the soil. If you don't want to buy the extra equipment, I used to rake into piles and vigorously attack w/ a reel mower. Lots of work. You said you have a weed whacker. Could you set something up like holding that in the top of a trash while someone dumps in dry leaves( make shift shredder)? Just keep in mind this might be a bit dangerous, safety first. Anyhoo, keep using leaves.
I agree with your sieve sifting mentality. It's the easiest way to separate the mealworms from the substrate. As long as the substrate is small enough. I find if you leave newspaper or cardboard in w/ the mealworms they tend to congregate there for easy removal, and they tend to pupate there as well. Check out openbugfarm.com as they have loads of info on raising many types of insects.
Thank you for point number four you made, windbreaks! It had never occurred to be as a possibility to extend the life of plastic on hoop houses, AND help retain internal temps. We currently are doing the pvc frame staked on rebar w/ 6 mil plastic. I don't like the idea of plastic, but it's the option we have now. Also, when parts of it tear, it can be cut up for smaller cold frames, window insulation, etc. Anyhoo, WINDBREAKS! Next stop at Goodwill, I'll be picking out whatever sizeable fabric I can find for said project. What a low tech no brainer!
My hands get extremely dry in winter, to the point of cracking and bleeding when it's very dry. I've used several "natural" products which have worked great. A hand salve by Burt's Bees and a product called almond milk kitchen hand cream were the best I remember. But, in a pinch I always end up returning to good old cold pressed olive oil. It's almost always around and doesn't cost nearly as much. I'm happy to see that this thread mentions calendula recipes as I've been meaning to infuse a little oil w/ said flowers to help my winter maladies. It readily self seeds in our front yard garden, and perhaps this is the motivation to finally create my own remedy.
I would like to second two suggestions above. First, shredding with a lawn mower is the most efficient method I have found to speed up decomposition. Second, placing said shredded leaves in your garden as mulch to break down over the winter. When I do this several inches of leaves will be gone by spring. I would guess the health of the existing soil would be a factor as more hungry critters break things down faster. I used to do the same the OP is suggesting with unshredded leaves and it could take a year or longer to decompose. So if shredding is an option, I strongly recommend it.
I don't worry too much about spacing too close to strawberries, as long as I'm not butchering the roots too bad. Remember both strawberries and garlic are incredibly tough unless you're in a really harsh climate. If you want to go even further into the polyculture realm, you can throw some salsify in the mix. As far as the planting time I do shoot for a little before first frost date. I don't know if that's the proper timing, but it works for me. And cut some of those darn strawberry runners while you're in there!
I have successfully grown garlic in our strawberries several times and will continue to do so. Made double use of the space and it encouraged me to pull out some runners on the strawberries when I harvested the garlic.
I don't hunt myself, but I love archery, and would side with those who have said go compound bow. I feel personally that it offers the best accuracy for beginners(once they're comfortable of course). I agree with the above comment about being wary of bow shops over selling things. Just a good bow and sight is all I would start with. Also I feel it very important to be 100% comfortable with the draw weight for long periods of time. I bought my bow when I was years younger and should have gone with a lighter weight. Speed and power are factors, but accuracy is what hits the mark. A comfortable draw is key.
Love this thread! I'm a fan of crickets, grasshoppers, anything in the wasp/ant family. I've been in contemplation about stag beetles, here's why. As I understand, members of the scarab beetle family are edible, of which this is one(I think, please correct me if I am wrong). The grubs feed on decaying wood, readily available in the form of wood chip mulch. I believe the adults feed on sap, I need to do more research. In an urban setting insect consumption could be risky business if done often with who knows what going into the bugs. I love to get treats now and then from my yard, but worry about what that grasshopper, etc. might have been eating or crawling through in my neighbor's yards full of spray on poison. So, wood chip mulch, seems pretty clean. Grubs eat that, I find a few beetles, respect the population to keep it renewable, we both win. I know in the UK this beetle is considered endangered, but I feel this concept would be more of a stewardship than an attack on the population. Open to any thoughts or opinions, please!
I second that. The indeterminate varieties are what you want if you're looking to go vertical. The bush varieties lack the tendrils needed to climb/cling to a trellis. But if you've already started the black beauty zucs are fantastic plants in a compact space in my experience. Just not over about 3ft. high.
FANTASTIC! We have this along edges of our property. Giving up on eradicating it, it is now used as "living mulch" under apples along w/ egyptian onions thrown in the mix. Now I can eat all three! Yippee! Hmmm, sedative properties too? Has anyone tried throwing this in a mead or wine? Maybe a question for another thread.
Thanks for the responses! Sounds like you guys haven't had any issues, I guess that means a green light on coffee mulch. I do add loads of vermicompost, but she has never shown much interest in that, only the bone meal added here and there. Also, the coffee would be mixed in w/ whatever mulch I would have on hand. Usually shredded leaves/ wood chips. The combo of all three should keep the heaps of worms and other soil life we have churning happily. In retrospect I thought to myself, the caffeine is supposed to be the toxic element for dogs. Since the grounds are leached, wouldn't the caffeine be less of an issue? Meaning if our fuzzy friend were to chomp on some, it would take a decent amount to pose a risk. She does love to find snacks on the ground.
We have access to tons of coffee grounds, and I would love to use them as mulch in our garden beds. However, we have a black and tan/blue tick and I'm worried she might get into them and poison herself. Here's the facts: We're in the city(bad place for a hound I know, but she gets out a lot), so whenever she's outside off a leash she's with one of us supervised in our yard. She's unbelievingly respectful of our garden beds even w/out a fence. She even takes the time to detour around the beds when making a beeline for a critter. The only thing that will tempt her curiosity is the oh so yummy bonemeal we use occasionally, but even then a loud HEY!! gets her out of there. I know I could just fence it off, but I'm super happy w/ the ease of access we have now, and don't want to drop any cash(hence the free coffee mulch dilemma). So, any thoughts? We love our pup, and her safety is our first concern, gardens are second. Thanks.
We have one of those potable battery jump boxes for our vehicles, lead acid battery w/ positive/ negative jump cables that you charge a few days and keep in your trunk, etc. It's about five years old (pushing it, I know), and I've kept it fairly regularly charged, but now it seems shot. When I plug it in to charge the charge indicator lights don't even light. I've checked the reset button and charger cable, don't see an issue. Is it just dead from sitting over time? Could I possibly turn it upside down and let the electrolyte gunk gravitate back to a somewhat usable state? I was thinking of trying to use it to keep a charge in a battery from a vehicle we are storing for the winter. The battery is about as old as the jump pack, which is why I'm mulling over how to keep it alive over winter. In theory, I figured plug in the jump pack, hook it to the battery a few days before use, turn on the pack, and leave it in the garage for a while. Now that the charge lights won't go on on the jump pack, I'm worried my idea is shot. Any ideas, or do I just need to get my cheap butt out and buy a new battery come spring? Thanks in advance.
Wow, I second that Leila, thanks Dan. Full disclosure, I was pretty much set on the idea anyway, just looking for some opinions or info. I feel the trade off of my food grown in plastics w/out chemicals & whatever packaging processes is probably hands down the winner over half the gunk in the grocery store. Thanks again.
We are using an old plastic rain barrel cut in half as two large growing containers next year. I'm exited about the size giving us companion planting options and optimizing use of the micro climate on the southern face of our house. However, the gick in plastics gives me concern. I've heard before that the blue rain barrels are food grade plastic, the one I plan to use(already cut and filled w/ soil, whoops) is a beige color. does the color have any indication of the type of plastic? Same size barrel as the blue ones they sell everywhere, just beige. Also, I got it second hand from a former neighbor who seemed unclear about what it had held. It smelled faintly of something petroleum based when I cut it in half. Gave it a good scrubbing w/ dish soap and washing soda, wondering if the petroleum smell may have just been the plastic itself. Smelled clean afterward. Thanks For any feed back!
We have a fair amount of invasive buckthorn along one edge of our property. It recently occurred to me that although I've never heard anyone recommend it as a substrate, it might be a useful resource for cultivating oyster mushrooms. I've already found many turkey tails growing on felled buckthorn used in our garden beds, and I reckon that oysters are just as if not more aggressive in colonization. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.Thanks.
We have an area of bishop's weed along our property line where we have fruit trees and small no till beds. I've been thinking that letting the plants run their course as a living mulch would be a far wiser plan of action than weeding them out as I had been doing. The beds would then be ideal for vertical crops like pole beans, amaranth, etc. I would love to hear if anyone else has tried this.
Question about the point raised on borax. If used in the laundry detergent containing borax we use on a regular basis, should we be concerned about our effect on a municipal water supply? I guess it would be minimal considering all the other things people in our city are pouring down their drains, but just curious. We started using diy laundry detergent (helped to wipe out our 4 yr. old's eczema) and I would like to make dish soap too, but don't want to have a negative effect on our water. On a borax side note, I also like to use it to combat carpenter ants. Any thoughts/ cautions? I realize I'll probably be directed to a slew of other threads! Thanks.
Thanks for the references! I'll have to do my research w/ them and look a little closer at the areas I gather from.I'm not anywhere as populated as Brooklyn, but who wants to take chances! I'm glad you mentioned the coffee grounds as that opens another question I have w/ urban mycology. I gather regular, not decaffeinated, coffee grounds for oyster cultivation. I steer clear of decaffeinated because of concerns about chemicals used in the decaffination process. I also wonder about the presence of pesticides as the grounds I get aren't organic. Any insight into either of those topics? Thanks again for the links.
I say follow your gut man! We have almost the same style raised beds, but I found out about hugekultur a day late. I'm considering toying w/ this hybrid idea in new beds we may start. We also double dug and kept our back yard annual veg beds close together w/ logs on the ground as frames and whatever organic mulch we could find. Sort of biointensive meets back to eden. I've lamented over not fusing hugelkultur w/ this, but I also kind of don't want to tinker w/ soil that's already thriving. We also have clay, albeit about a foot down, but double digging definitely helped. Please share if your fusion idea comes to fruit!
I find plenty of logs freshly cut every spring in the city. Wondering if anyone knows of any studies, etc. citing the risks of toxins in the wood of urban trees. I'm sure there are some, but would it be too much of a risk? All the wood I wood consider using is from residential, not industrial areas. Hence, the most common pollutants I'm thinking of is exhaust from traffic( looking for younger trees planted post 70's so no leaded gas), lead paint from houses(I pick trees from houses w/ brick exterior, no paint), and whatever chemicals people may be dumping/ spraying on their property. If anyone has any resources or knowledge I would love to hear. Thanks!