I'm no electrical expert, but your question seems to have been answered already.
What I don't understand is why doesn't your inverter have a sleep mode built in? That seems odd to me.
I lived for nearly 20 years off grid and had a 3,600 watt inverter, with a sleep mode of course. When things get quiet at night and you turn the last light off you can hear the little "bong" that the inverter makes, so you know that it is sleeping. I honestly can't imagine how bad that's going to be for your battery bank. I used to get around 7 years life from my battery banks, but that was because they could "rest" every night. That constant draw with no rest isn't going to help at all. Honestly, I think you need to do whatever it takes to change that inverter for a different one. Good luck!
Yes you can always use a mix of earth and stones, just remember to pack it really hard. I think it's probably easier to use one of those 10" by 10" hand tampers in your case. We were able to use a mechanical tamper which saved tremendously on our old backs.
Don't forget that much of the success of this system relies on the drain rock that you place behind the tire wall. You don't want water accumulating there. As long as the water has a path to get out, you should be OK.
Hi there: we live over at Anglemont in B.C., so our climate is very similar to yours. I will say that there are a number of tire retaining walls in this area, and by the looks of them, they have been here for a number of years.
In order to avoid the potential problem of your tires "floating" which I don't think they should do, may I suggest you try this.
First dig about a foot below grade where you need to place your tire wall. Put about 6" of sharp rock in the trench. Use a tamper to pack the sharp rock really well. Add your first row of tires and pack it hard with dirt, I don't think you need to use expensive stones, but if you have fist sized rocks by all means use them. Fill behind the tires with at least 6" of sharp rock again. Repeat until your tire retaining wall is at the height you desire.
We did a retaining wall last year, but out of concrete blocks. Honestly, it was way too expensive. But we used the method above, using the sharp rock to provide adequate drainage behind the wall. We did use a tamper to pack the stone hard between layers, and I'm told that is a critical step.
We have just gone through a terrible winter, very cold, lots of snow and now lots of rain. I know our relatives in Calgary are complaining about the SNOW today! It has been a strange one.
Our wall - so far - is still just as we built it. So it appears the system works.
Sorry to hear about the tray problem. I would think that since the company admits it is a design flaw that they would adjust the design and give their customers a new version of the tray at no cost. I must say that I have never heard of a tray which doesn't let the liquids pass through. The liquid will sit for a short while on the housing of the unit, from where the vent system evaporates the liquid slowly into the atmosphere.
The chimney is a very important part of the system. It should most definitely exit well above your roof. As far as I understand the same applies to the toilet vent as to a woodstove chimney. That means that your vent should be at least two feet above any point of your roof within 10 feet of the vent pipe. If you are still getting odour on the other side of the house, a higher exhaust vent may eliminate that. There is a sort of laminar flow of air over your house as the wind passes over and around the house. The boundary layer of air shapes itself to the house if you will. The higher you get the vent exhaust, the farther away from the boundary layer of air it will be, thus less odour.
I'm not familiar with black fly larvae, but it might not hurt to try. Probably easier to try and find an alternate source of peat moss. I use all sorts of different wood shavings here instead of peat moss, and I think most of it isn't really that good at decomposing, yet it seems to work OK. Olive is a hardwood, and if you can chip it small enough it just might work. It would be worth a try anyway. Perhaps if you chipped a whole lot of it and then heaped it in a pile and added water, the decomposition would start first. Then maybe add some partly decomposed mix to your toilet to see if that would help. Adding stale bread slices will sometimes help as well.
As you say, once the tray problem is addressed, the problem should be self eliminating.
Yes, when a bamboo plant is young and small, it does take some time to get going.
For example, the 14' tall plant started out reaching about four feet, then it increased in size every year until now. They do tend to do that as their root mass grows. Some of the very small ones have barely increased in size at all. It's all a matter of which plants you select. Like I said, the fellow at the Bamboo Ranch really knows his stuff, let him guide you. He also has a price list you can peruse. Not sure if it is available online or not, but it would be worth asking.
I better learn to spell better as well it seems, pseudosasa, that's better, I think.
Look to the lower left in the first pic and you will see a new shoot from one of the three plants there.
Next one is a small running bamboo, quite short, I think less than two feet tall. And again, it has been there for several years and has traveled maybe 5 feet.
Last one is a very airy looking bamboo, quite an elegant little plant really (name???). It is a clumping bamboo. The soil there is really bad, and even though it is by the pond it hasn't got any water this year at all except rain.
About 35 years ago I had a big running bamboo over in the Fraser Valley and I contained it in concrete. I have since found out that you don't need to do that. Every bamboo plant that I have here has very shallow roots. So there is no need to go to great lengths and depths to contain a runner. The few that I have contained I have cut a plastic barrel into three sections and used that to contain the plant. The bottom of the barrel can be open. So I guess each section of barrel would be about a foot tall. There must be other ways as well.
But why worry about that at all? Just buy the clumping bamboos, which if memory serves would be any of the phyllostachys (?) and avoid the problem all together. I did look for either of my bamboo books and they are definitely not here. But I did remember the name of the place on Saltspring. It's called the Bamboo Ranch. You've never seen so much bamboo in all your life. Everything under the sun.
Now one last thing is that most of the bamboos we grow here do not attain the heights or girth that they would in their native land. The chap at the Bamboo ranch will tell you all about that. And BTW, he has by far the best prices.
Hi again Erin:
OK, I have a few pics to try and show you some of the different bamboos. As long as these post in order my comments will fit OK...let's hope.
The first one is Pseudosasa Japonica, or arow bamboo. My plant here was just small when I got it and this years shoots are some 14' high. It is a clumping plant.
Just a few feet in front of that one I have a small clumping bamboo which is only about three feet tall at the most. Nice small leaves and a fairly compact plant.
The next one is a running bamboo (don't know the names of the others, lost in the mists of time) and as you can see it too is quite short. It has run a total of about four feet since I bought it, and I think that was either 2008 or 2009, so not exactly a world traveler.
We are limited to three pics per post so I'll do another after this. I'll give you a couple of generalities about bamboos. Most of them don't take off like rocketships at all. Perhaps it is due to my lack of water here, but none of the plants have strayed more than 4 or 5 feet in all that time. You may have a different experience if you have more water available. You will see large and small leaved plants, some quite dense and others very open in their structure.
We most definitely are in the rainshadow here. I used to keep the weather records here for several years, hi/low temps, rainfall, and while I was doing that we averaged 37" a year. But one thing I noticed is that just about every year we get one really driving rain sometime in August. We may get well over 1/2" in under an hour. It's quite amazing.
Regarding bamboos, what I did was to do some reading first. Unfortunately most of my library is up in Kamloops and I cannot remember the names of the two best bamboo books I have. It's the old timers setting in again. One in particular is really good and it's about bamboos for temperate climates. Then I went over to Saltspring and got a whole vanload of bamboo plants. Something like 35 all together. I have lost maybe three or four over the years since then. They don't seem to have any trouble overwintering here, regardless of how cold the winter gets, like last winter for instance. But they do like a good drink once in awhile, which suggests to me that a hugel would be a good place for them.
If you were to put a few running 'boos in your big hugel, they would make a great windbreak/hedge. Have you been to the Japanese Garden at Royal Roads in Victoria? Some nice 'boos there.
Hi Erin: Well I see that we aren't that far apart in that case if you are on the island. I'm about 11 miles south east of Nanaimo harbour as the crow flies.
I think it's a safe bet that the soil here is worse than yours. There is almost nothing here. But regardless of that, there are still quite a few things growing. The trouble is that with 500 meters of ground to get covered and planted...well, that's going to be quite a chore you have given yourself. I certainly wish you luck with that.
Stuff that grows here includes salal, oregon grape, the small wild roses, hens and chicks (don't know the real name) broom and English ivy of course, but I would rather not have either of those. We're never going to defeat the broom, but the ivy might be brought under control with diligence. But I bet it would make a good ground cover if you were willing to take the chance. If you are fairly close to the ocean, you might also see a lot of arbutus growing. There must be well over 100 growing here, and it's only a 1/3 acre lot. The bigger trees are douglas fir, grand fir, garry oak, red cedar, some alder further down on Ruxton and some of the fast growing junk trees, but I don't know what they are. Now that I think about it, the junk trees are all growing by a wet area just off the end of my property. There's a few Pacific Dogwood trees here as well. The cultivated stuff here includes rhododendrons and azaleas, many Japanese Maples that I have grown from seed, the big white daisies, lilies, a variety of roses, clematis, just about all the herbs, forsythia, bamboos - quite the selection here and they seem to do well and some apple trees. Wild blackberries grow here as well, but don't produce much in the way of fruit, again due to lack of water.
What doesn't do well here is any of the root crops and I think that is a combination of poor soil and huge lack of water.
I take it that you aren't actually in Vancouver proper, otherwise you would have water. Are you anywhere near a river that you could perhaps pump a few barrels full of water and transport them to your site? I'm not sure of the best source of grass clippings, but I wonder if you got hold of the highways dept. if you could go on to one of the freshly cut medians and help yourself. There must be literally tons of grass sitting there just waiting to be put to good use.
Well, most of our stuff here is conifers...so pretty easy to fall. But we also have a lot of big old Arbutus, and they are a different kettle of fish all together.
When an Arbutus lets go there is NO hinge at all. They just snap and they're gone.
Several years ago (2005) we had a massive snow and ice storm on the island here, and I was looking after the "roads" at the time. There really aren't any roads here at all, it is just trails. But the government Dept. Of Highways needs someone to look after these little islands for them. Anyway, this storm brought down about 3,000 trees on the island, about 1,700 of which were on the public rights of way. Many of the trees just snapped off way up in the air, some just lost branches, it was a nightmare.
I hired every able bodied person on the island to help, and it took us two months to clear up the mess. Now, many of these trees were huge and either partly broken or leaning heavily. Can you imagine the fun we had - in January no less - figuring out how to handle each tree. It was always the Arbutus which worried me the most, as you never knew when one was just going to snap off and come crashing down. Some of those trees were over 100' tall and just plain dangerous.
Thankfully I'm retired now, but that was an experience I'll never forget.
Yes, it's probably a little muffin fan that is inside the bottom of the vent pipe. At least it is on the SunMar.
I don't understand why you are having your drain overflow all the time. You must be putting too much liquid in there. Yes, peat moss is a big help...the coarse kind is recommended. You can add stale slices of bread, planer shavings, small amounts of sawdust etc. It all helps.
Is the toilet and receptacle sitting dead level?
Once you get the liquid under control, I'm pretty certain the odour will vanish.
Originally I was also going to have two toilets and the one drum. But never hooked the second toilet up. Still sitting here in a box unopened!
At the end of every day I turn the handle 21 times. That is three full revolutions of the drum inside. Every time I empty the tray, about every 3 months or so, I immediately fill it up again from the drum and let it decompose until the next cycle. Honestly, there is hardly any smell of any sort from the tray. It smells more like fresh earth than anything.
In order to avoid using water with the separate toilet type, just hold the lever open while you're attending to business as it were. The less liquid, the better the system works. Do you have the little muffin fan in your vent stack?
Dawn, the unit I have in the cabin sounds something like what you have. There is a regular looking toilet upstairs with the drum receptacle immediately below in the utility room. It connects with the usual 4" plastic pipe. Way back when, I seem to recall having the occasional issue, and that revolved around the drum getting too much liquid accumulating in the bottom.
I never add water to my composting toilets any more - haven't done so for years. The drainage problem doesn't seem to exist any more. Once you get used to these composting toilets they are so convenient and trouble free that I don't know why everyone doesn't use them.
I empty the tray maybe every two or three months at the most. It really is so little work. I keep a 5 gallon bucket of shavings in a small cupboard in the bathroom and use a sugar scoop to add the shavings to the toilet.
I have two different Sun Mars here, one in the cabin and one in the big house. The one piece unit is probably what you would need. Hook it up to a 4" vent through the ceiling/roof, get yourself a 12 volt power source to run the small muffin fan that sits at the bottom of the vent pipe, and a small hole through either the wall or floor to run the drain through should it ever be necessary.
I actually plug a 12 volt adapter into the wall outlet (110V) so I don't need a battery to run the fan. Clean and simple.
I've had the one in the cabin for 17 years and the one in the house for about 5 or 6 years now. I think I paid $950 (Canadian $) for the one piece unit in the big house. They are easy to use, easy to keep clean, and no smell. You can use peat moss (recommended) to add to the toilet. But I have been using planer shavings for many years without any issues. One garbage bag full of planer shavings seems to last at least a year.
He's obviously a practiced faller, and it doesn't take too many trees before you learn to keep the saw dead level. He did have a decent sized plastic wedge right in the middle of the back cut, so the tree didn't have much choice as to the direction it went in. If you are referring to the undercut as the front cut, then that wouldn't need to be anywhere near half way into the tree. Typically here on the west coast with some of the larger trees, you only need to cut about 20% into the tree for the undercut.
But still...it would be nerve wracking anyway with those buildings so close on either side. It was indeed a most excellent fall.
I agree it is the hinge as well to a degree. But once you get your undercut done and it aims exactly where you want the tree to fall, that's most of the battle. If you want to prevent the tree from going slightly to one side or the other - for example if there is a very small lean in one direction - then you leave the hinge bigger on the high side. That way the tree will tend to go perfectly in the direction of your undercut. Wedges, the right undercut and the proper hinge ALL contribute to the correct felling of a tree.
On your walnut tree, would you need to cut some of the branches off first? Or could you do the job with a single cut?
Well now, a couple of hours ago before I started going through this thread, I had never heard of this hugelkultur. It's really quite fantastic.
I have a pile of slash from my sawmill that I haven't run for the past few years. I was trying to clear all the old wood up, mostly cutting it into firewood length pieces for the coming winter. But the bottom of this pile has got pretty rotten and is useless for firewood. So now, of course, I will try and move some of it up to an old raised bed that I have here and try and make use of it.
The soil here, if you can call it that, is very thin on top of the bedrock, and what is there hardly grows anything. So, I'm going to bet that a nice big pile (no neighbours to whine about it) will be a huge improvement. Anything that we have been able to grow has needed raised beds. So to me, this seems to confirm that the big hugel bed will do a far better job. The part that I really like is the no watering. The only water I have here is from roof catchment, so to be able to grow food without water will be a major blessing.
One thing I can get is seaweed. So I'm going to add that as well. Not so much at this time of year, but in the fall and spring, there's lots of seaweed around.
Not expecting much rain between now and the end of September, but I will get started on the first bed right away. Should be interesting.
Good job for sure, but not as hard as it might first appear. The tree was a good size in diameter, which makes it fairly easy to aim...and secondly it was straight. It's when they are crooked or leaning it is harder to fall them exactly where you want. Wedges will make sure that the tree goes pretty much where you want.
Victore: Just a quick comment about your 14" bandsaw for milling black locust.
Honestly, I don't think you have any hope of doing that. I have been milling wood for 15 years using an old Lumbermate bandmill. It will cut through just about any sort of wood, some better and faster than others. On the west coast here I find Douglas Fir, various spruces, arbutus (you call it Madrone) red alder, red and yellow cedar, a couple of the pines etc.
There are a number of these small backyard type mills available, and I would suggest that you look in your area for a used one that is still working OK. The bottom line about this is that you can cut whatever wood you want to at your convenience. When you are done cutting, you can always sell the mill. My cost to cut wood over the years has averaged just 4 cents a board foot, and my logs have been dragged in from the ocean...in other words, driftwood.
One final thing. If you do find a suitable mill, get a sharpener and setter for the blades. I have recouped the cost of these last two items many times over. Blades are not that expensive, currently about $28 each for a 1 1/4" by 7/8 pitch by 144" long. It's the cost of sharpening that hurts. Locally it runs around $17 per sharpening/setting. You should be able to get 10+ sharpenings per blade, and at least 2,000 board feet (sometimes more) from each blade.
It is a small investment up front, but the long term benefit is well worth it.
Hello again Vida...spectacular day here on the we(s)t coast.
You know, I have never given any thought to your question about the growing of food near a septic leach field. I think before I would try something like that I would check out just what the effluent might be like once it exits the tank. I really have no idea if it could be toxic in any way or not. My hunch is that it shouldn't be toxic, although I really have no basis in fact for saying that. Just look at some of the stuff that gets sprayed or spread on commercial food production farms...I hardly think septic tank could be any worse.
I understand that there might be a problem with growing plants there, by virtue of the fact that the roots will want to seek out the wet ground and could possibly clog up the system.
Steve was explaining the system to me where a one inch plastic line is used and 3/16" holes are drilled every 3 feet in the lines. I think this refers to a system using a pump. I suspect you are thinking of the old systems where you use tile in the leaching field, or perhaps big "O" pipe, and presumably that would be perforated.
Good morning Vida: Regarding the septic systems...my next door neighbour here is a contractor licensed to install septic systems. We had a lengthy chat a short while ago about the requirements and how one of these installations goes. Here in B.C. our lovely government has very specific size requirements for both tanks and field size. It isn't actually the tanks which are that costly, it is more the installation of the field. And it depends on whether or not you are able to use a gravity system or if you need a pump. These pumps I am told run around $500 and the tank (750 gallon size in my case) about $750. Looks like about a dollar per gallon. And for a small system here, I will need 180 lineal feet of lines in the field part. Typically, that would mean three runs of 60 feet. They base your size requirements on how many bedrooms you have in your dwelling.
If you can use a gravity system, the overall costs will be less. You would not need to run electricity to the pump for example, so one less cost.
I think if you do a search under your Ontario government building regulations that you might find a whole set of instructions as to how a full septic system goes together. It isn't rocket science, but here in B.C. they can only be installed by licensed contractors. The course that Steve (my neighbour) had to take cost him $8,000. Maybe that's why there aren't too many with such a license.
As for using the septic effluent in the garden, I'm definitely uncertain about that. However, using the composted matter from the composting toilet I have no problem with at all. If you go to the various websites run by the compost toilet manufacturers, you will see that they all suggest that you can use the compost for your garden. I can tell you from experience that it works!
Vida: Ontario isn't the only place that wants septic tanks for using a glass of water! Some of the requirements are really ridiculous.
However, I can see in the case of a campground such as you are suggesting that a septic tank might be in order. One or two people using a shower...OK. But 50 or 100 every day would be another matter. I don't have the magic bullet answer, but I will be going through this scenario next year on a lot I hope to buy up at the North Shuswap in B.C. Even if you use a composting toilet - which I think is an excellent idea - (been using them for 17 years now) they still want a full blown septic system just for relatively small amounts of grey water.
Costs to install that I have been quoted from 10 to 15 thousand dollars. A bit rich for anybody's blood if you ask me.
The part of your linked article that does leave me a little worried is the fact that the basement has some ventilation holes to the outside. This means that the air pressure in the basement is more strongly influenced by wind than in the living room where the wood stove is located.
Wytze: Just a thought about air pressure from outside. If there are holes on opposing sides of the basement in question, one side will likely be slightly pressurized and the other in a slight vacuum as the wind passes around and over the house. I think they would come close to balancing each other out, not perfectly maybe, but close. I don't think it would worry me too much anyway. It looks as though your basement is all below ground anyway, is that right?
I did a bit of hunting this evening, and I ran across a lady potter up on Mudge island, just a short boat ride from here. Apparently she has found a source of clay right on Mudge island.
Now I also ran across an old article on coal mining, which was very big in this area for many years. It seems that there was a large amount of clay overburden on a coal mine over at Ladysmith on Vancouver Island. Clay seems to have been commonly associated with the local mines, as there were further reports of yet more clay up at the coal mines at Cumberland, which is just a few miles north of Nanaimo.
To make this even more interesting, I am told that many years ago, long before this island (Ruxton) was developed into lots, that machinery was brought over here and used to dig out an area in the middle of this island in the hunt for coal. The subsequent information that I found out has been vague to say the least. But there is evidence of a coal seam (apparently) in the middle of the island here. The area became known as "The Pond" and covers about ten acres. So I might take a couple of glass jars up to the pond and see if I can find anything that looks remotely clay like.
allen lumley wrote:keith s elliott : I wood be very surprised if you did not have mud flats and sand bars that were not clay or clay sand, the older maritime charts used to mark
what kind of bottom was close to shipping lanes, but very few captains 'throw out the lead, any more !
Excavation contractors have always been my goto people with maps carried in their heads of Exact locations depths found at and thickness of the Clay bands !
Also good are the local highway crews, who know where landslides from old/new road cuts cause roads and ditches to be blocked and increase flooding after
heavy rains ! Big AL
Hello Allen, I see your line of thinking. This island is very small, 1.4 miles long and .4 mile wide, and much of that area is taken up by bays which surround the island. There are no roads here, hence no road or highway crews, nor any heavy equipment of any kind. My immediate neighbor has his main house over on Gabriola Island some 10 miles away. He is a contractor. He does know of one good clay deposit over there which is on private property. He did some work for the property owner in question and asked if he could have a little clay to line a pond with. The answer was a flat NO, neither free or for any amount of cash.
There are no mudflats or sand bars here that I am aware of, and I've been here for over 17 years. We have shell beaches (very small) or rock beaches.
However there is a fellow here (Terry) who is a potter. He lives in Victoria, and the next time I see him I shall ask if he can direct me to a source of clay. If anyone knows, I think Terry would. He teaches the "how-to's" of pottery.
It would seem to me that one wouldn't need a lot of clay to make a riser. Obviously I must research the making of cob and find out what the various ratios/formulas are.
Thank you Allen. It seems that I shall need to find a source of clay with which to make cob. I don't believe there is any on this island, so I shall expand my search. I think I already have a couple of different sizes of Sonotube here.
I think you are trying to convince yourself that you need an outside air source, even if it is from your basement.
I'm not so sure about that, and I'm inclined to go with your installers' suggestion. I have a small cabin here, 432 square feet on the ground floor, about another 350 in the loft, and I have no outside air source...other than leaks.
I looked at the pic of your cabin (very nice, by the way!) and I bet that there will be more than enough leakage there to feed your wood stove. To either confirm or deny this, how was the air supply to the existing fireplace? Did you need to leave a window cracked open to feed it, or did it manage OK on it's own? While I do not know the answer to this next question, I am going to hazard a guess that the wood stove will very likely consume less air than the open fireplace.
I think that the damp basement is another problem all together, and that you should perhaps try to devise some sort of ventilation not directly involving your wood stove. Either that, or perhaps try using some of the heat from the wood stove and route it into the basement area by pressure. Perhaps a 12v fan depending on your power source. A marine fan from a boat comes to mind, where you need to vent the engine compartment prior to starting the engine. If you were to push warmed air to the basement via one hole, you could add another on the opposite side of your floor in order to get some cross ventilation going down stairs.
Your stove is claimed to use about one cubic foot of air every 5 seconds. Considering that will be drawn from the entire room area, not just the floor, I don't think you will be getting cold drafts. Especially if you address the damp basement issue with some warmth.
I am at the coast in B.C., but in an area with a pretty good rain shadow. We get somewhere around 37" annual rainfall, or just under a meter.
Good luck with this, and I will be interested to see what you manage to come up with.
I have a section (new) of 6" s.s. chimney and I am curious as to whether or not it can be used as a riser. I have read both "yes" and "no" to this question. However, this pipe is only rated at 650ºC, or about 1,200ºF. I understand that the burn temps inside the riser can get up to 1,800ºF, so my thinking is that this is NOT suitable.
Allen Lumley, yes I bought the book just a few days ago. Not trying to re-invent the wheel here, just seeing if this might work. It's a shame the pipe isn't 6", that would be perfect.
The pipe is either 3 1/2" or 4", and they used the smaller size where they joined the pipe in the middle. Then at the top end of the boom, they used a 3 1/2" section with massive clamps. I actually have a total of almost 40' of this pipe.
I think I might try to see if I can make this work just for the hell of it. You never know. I can always revert to plan B...which would be the book way. It's always nice to be able to use what one has on hand.
BTW, I have to say the book by Ianto is absolutely the most fascinating thing I have ever read. Been through it twice and definitely need to read it several more times.
I have some 1/4" thick wall aluminum pipe which came from a boom off a commercial fishboat. On a 6" system RMH, could I use several of these pieces in place of a single piece of 6" metal duct?
The catch is that while the pipe is very thick...and very heavy...it is either 3 1/2" or 4" inside diameter. Now the net area of a 6" pipe is 28.27 square inches and the net area of a piece of 3 1/2" pipe is 9.62 square inches. Therefore three of these pieces add up to 28.82 square inches. I have enough to make 4 pieces of suitable length to go in the bench I'm planning. I could make a manifold to connect these pipes at the exit of the barrel, and I could do the same thing where the pipes would connect to the flue heading outside. This flue, incidentally, is a standard 6" flue already existing in the cabin, and goes straight up through the roof. It has the stainless steel sections once it gets to the roof.
I think that because of the greater surface area of the walls in this small diameter pipe that there will be more drag on the exhaust, hence the idea to use 4 pipes instead of three - which almost perfectly matches the csa of a 6" tube.
This would be a straight line system, not doubling back on itself.
Now this means that the pipes would be about 7 feet long, theoretically somewhat short to extract all the heat. But I was thinking that because I can use 4 of these pipes, side by side, that the aluminum might just do a good job of extracting the heat.
Now I'm a very old carpenter, (me and Noah built the ark, but he had better PR) not so much a metal guy, although I do get around with metal OK...after a fashion.
Can I get your thoughts on whether this even has a remote chance of working?
The section in this pic is a 3 1/2" piece inside a 4" piece, and therefore the walls are 1/2" thick!
I do believe I have found the trouble. The lower stove just needed a good cleanout and it's good.
However, the living room stove was another matter entirely. It turns out that this stove has a whole series of baffles inside, and once they get clogged up, there is no way to clean them. I don't think much of the design I can tell you. So considering that the stove is essentially useless now, I figured I had nothing to lose by seeing what could be done inside to repair the trouble.
Long story short, I took out some of the steel inside, gave everything a thorough cleaning - at least where I could get in with a variety of cobbled up tools - and I have a test fire going now. It has been running nearly 3 hours and it has never run anywhere near this well in the past. Plus I have just over 100 pounds of concrete bricks sitting on the stove top getting warm. I may have this one beat after all.
Bob Jackson wrote:That tubing isn't galvanized, is it?
Yes it is. And yes I'm aware of the dangers of the galvanizing burning off. But it's what I had, and for me it was a proof of concept sort of thing. Please be assured that when I make one INSIDE a building, there will be no galvanizing. The exhaust tube is one that is used here for propane appliances, such as an instantaneous water heater.