Adam, if you understand the principles of keyline patterning you could start utilizing that as a cultivation pattern at almost no cost which would still improve water catchment. Who knows it might even be the pattern a future buyer would just use, therefore becoming a permanent land improvement...
Adam, sounds fun. There’s no economic way to spread compost or biochar over 500 acres, that said you can still do “permaculture on 500 acres. First look into keyline design, it’s a bit complex but there are people out there who can map your keyline and it’ll pay off in the long run Basically it’s a water harvesting strategy that is mindful of your equipment needs. Second consider alley cropping. Basically having rows of trees maybe Almond.. planed along the keylines then you have the hemp in the alleys. The USDA has lots of studies going way back showing that alley cropping actually increases crop yields, due to the many benefits trees offer. Third look into pasture cropping, the only economic way to regeneratively spread nutrients is with grazing animals. Maybe if you planted the whole acreage in white clover a cool season perennial you’d be able to lease the land for grazing when the hemp is out, then graze it low before planting and plant with a no till seeder or transplanter into the stubble. Ideally the grazer would utilize high density rotations to maximize grazing/ manure distribution.
Cassie, I noticed it’s already been mentioned but look into Colin Seiss and his “pasture cropping”. www.pasturecropping.com he’s just. Small farm only 40,000 acres. What he’s done is kind mind blowing, you could step it up and plant tree crops or keyline but he’s producing more bushels/ acre than his neighbors and stocks higher density of sheep with no “cides”. He feeds more than most large farms do with lower operating costs.
So I just finished a berkley style pile did the whole correct ratio of c:n and built it let set for for days and flipped every other day for 2 weeks, exhausting. However a week later now I went to collect it to spread and it's hot, don't have my thermometer on me but can't stick my hand all the way in hot, any thought? Thanks in advance.
I'm not a bd expert but am a student of biodynamics, first I would say don't put manure on top of this, cimpost and would chips should be fine... When wood is buried it "locks" up nitrogen so any manure you add would just go to the buried wood. As far as using a bd prep I would recommend a combo of horn manure and barrel compost to start and follow that with more barrel compost down the road.
Yes I will be rotating them behind my hogs on 9 acres, I'm in the process of developing this area into a savannah, it was a hay field. So it has good grass, I just can't figure out calculating feed requirements, and if I was to rely soley upon imported feed the price point seems high even for a niche market. The thread linked above was great but it does seem as if most of those people are making their money off poults, so maybe that's the direction to head.
Hello everyone, I was wondering if any of you raise turkeys profitably? The last two years I've raised a few for personal use and enjoyed them, now that I'm farming as a career, when I do the math, I don't know if I can make it work. We would be raising bourbon reds, assuming I had to buy all feed I'm calculating 107/ bird without my labor... I hope to reduce the imported feed, don't we all? But can't factor that into the business plan. Thanks for any input.
I know conventional wisdom says not to plow etc when the soil is wet. I just moved onto new acreage and am itching to keyline it, I've had the opportunity to observe it for long enough, and know where I'll be placing everything. Should I wait till may/June for the soil to dry out or if I make the swales and mulch will the soil recover?
So I'm learning about the whole soil food web and although I find it fascinating some of it is difficult to read, (dry). My thought is if cocci is a soil bacteria, can one promote the growth of other bacteria to limit the cocci as cocci can be detrimental to rabbits/ poultry
So the few books I've read about mycology suggest that log cultivation probably isn't economically sustainable... Thought I'd check wit the experts here at permies, either way I'll try some for personal use but had hoped to some day make it a business after learning the basics.
I'm in the process of establishing a 10 acre "restoration agriculture" system, I will have the standard nut and fruit crops and run pigs chickens and rabbits through the pastures. Cattle are not an option as we are leasing land from a existing cattle option. We are considering implementing a cash crop on an acre as an alley crop, what would you all suggest? We are in zone 6 outside louisville Ky and our soil is predominantly clay. I was thinking asparagus but would also like to consider a annual just for cash flowing as the costs of business are rapidly growing....
I know everyone claims that potatoes do well in hugelbeets, how about sweet potatoes? I'm near Louisville Ky, and we have a heavy clay soil that if unadulterated makes sweet potatoes grow like long skinny carrots, so thought a hugel bed might work. Any thoughts?
Hello all, I've been studying permaculture for a while now. I've been aware of biodynamics but am new to it. If one has a biodynamic farm can you sheet mulch? Or does that contradict with the belief system?
Just wondering if anyone had ever tried the Salatin's pigaerator technique with horses? I have a sacrifice lot for the horses with a shelter where I can put a hanging feeder, I think it will work just wondering if anyone knows.
Allright if black locust takes so long to rot and is considered bad for hugelkultur, what are good uses for blowdown limbs etc? I'd love to have a mass heater but our house is a manufactured home and therefore due to zoning issues we can only have a wood burner that currently is out of budget... Any thoughts thanks
Mulch is always good, but you could also sow "tillage" radish a daikon radish and it does wonders for compacted soil. Just plant it and let the radish do it's thing and rot in the ground, it's a great worm fodder.