In my garden, most corn pollen falls approximately straight down, most of the time. Therefore, at my place, corn tends towards self pollination. For example, I accidentally planted a seed for colored kernels in my white popcorn patch. The top cob is from the stray seed. The bottom cob is what got contaminated. It is obvious which kernels received pollen from the colored cob, because pollen that carries the "color" gene shows up in the kernels that were pollinated by it.
I haven't counted the kernels, but what's that? Only about 5% visible cross-pollination at 3 feet separation? Then double that to 10%, since 1/2 of the pollen from the colored plant is for white kernels.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:You can plant eggplant interspersed with squash, since the eggplant will grow taller than the squash leaves all will be fine.
I giggle at this, and marvel about how gardening is highly localized. At my place, squash leaves are often waist high, and form a completely closed canopy. A really excellent eggplant might get as tall as mid-calf.
For what it's worth, at my place, peppers are also a mid-calf height. Online, I see photos of pepper plants that are waist high.
Because of the history of how Utah was settled, it has a very strong libertarian sentiment. The legislation passed unanimously in the state senate, and at 90% in the house.
Yesterday, just about all of the black market food that I have been buying became legal. Therefore, I'm not hanging out with criminals any more. LOL. I already have a supplier in mind from which to make my first legal unregulated food purchase. I bet she frames the $5 that I give her. I'm intending to frame the $ that I get from my first legal sale of an unlicensed value added product.
I already made a demonstration label for my first sale, which complies with the new law. In actual practice, I'm likely to include a list of ingredients.
Perhaps the most famous line from farmer Joel Salatin is, "Everything I want to do is illegal". I have often felt the same way: Handicapped as a farmer, because I could only sell the output of my garden as raw vegetables, and not as value added products like pickles, bread, soup, jam, meat, kraut, etc.
I wonder if the Utah legislature was listening to Joel? This week, sweeping food freedom legislation became law. It may make it much easier for farmers in Utah to make an income. The exemptions even extend to poultry and rabbits. Separate legislation made raw milk sales much easier. The legislation exempts "food producers from licensing, permitting, certification, inspection, packaging, and labeling requirements for food that is produced and sold within Utah, sold directly to its consumer for home use, and labeled to indicate that the food has not been inspected and may not be resold."
My primary market tomato, and the foundation of my plant breeding efforts is a Russian variety named "Jagodka". It's about a 2 ounce red saladette tomato. Russian tomatoes in general haven't done all that well for me, but Jagodka in particular thrived in my garden.
My standard answer for things like this it to choose different genetics for the tomatoes that you grow. I can reliably grow tomatoes in my high-altitude, cold-nighted, short-season garden. It took trialing hundreds of varieties to find genetics that thrive in my location, and a bit of plant breeding. But I consider the investment well worth the trouble, because tomatoes are now one of the most straight forward and reliable crops that I grow. I sigh whenever someone sends me seeds of their favorite tomato: One more variety that is going to fail in my garden!
The "Wintersown Method" basically means to plant the seeds mid-winter, in a shady spot, and cover them with something like a soda bottle with the top left off, and the bottom cut off. The plants germinate when the season is right for them to germinate.
The main problem that I have seen people having with growing pollinated potato seeds, is that they keep them too warm. Therefore they germinate poorly. Then they don't get enough light while being too warm, so they get long and leggy. The wintersown method avoids both of those problems.
When I go to the grocery store, and buy fruits or vegetables, I typically don't put them in a bag. I hold them in my hands, or put them in a shopping basket without bagging.
It's rare for me to bag anything for customers at the farmer's market. If I just plop things un-bagged onto the table, that encourages people to bring their own bags. It certainly saves me the expense and labor of putting things in bags. Besides, non-bagged produce seems healthier to me. Less chance for microbes to grow if things are drier.
On that particular page, a script belonging to google is generating http:// thumbnails for the videos.
I can check that, by waiting a long, long time for the page to load, and then selecting "Tools -> Page Info -> Media" using the current version of FireFox web browser. Yes. I still use a menu, those that don't can get to "page Info" by right clicking on the background of the page.
I had a few crops that I really wanted to plant today, cause it's the right season, and because the forecast is for a week of rain. So I planted them, even though it was raining. I really love my clay soil. It would be a whole different life to have to learn to grow in some other soil type. I was accompanied by a guest while working.
USDA zones are only about the average low temperatures during the winter. They aren't of much use for other purposes. They basically tell you what plants you can expect to survive the winter. For example: fava beans can be expected to survive a zone 8 winter. Thus they are a great crop to plant in the fall.
I tend to do my planting, not by a calendar, but by the "progression of the seasons". And different crops can be planted in different seasons. My season markers are about as follows:
Plant at the beginning of the fall monsoons: wheat, rye, spinach, kale, winter-peas, clary sage, onion seeds, parsnip, leek seeds.
Plant just before the arrival of snowcover: favas, lentils, garlic.
Plant within days of the snow melting: spring grains, peas, spinach, lentils, garbanzos, cilantro, lettuce, onion bulbs, transplant favas from greenhouse, poppy.
Plant about the time the daffodils finish flowering: carrots, beets, brassicas, turnip, bock choi, broccoli, cabbage.
Plant about the time that apples are flowering: corn, potatoes,
Plant after the lilacs finish flowering: squash, melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans. One of the local sayings, is to plant tomatoes out after the snow has melted from the mountain range to the west.
Plant after the weather turns hot/dry: sweet potatoes, okra, watermelon.
2 g urea
0.2 g sodium
0.2 g potassium
0.1 g creatinine
Sodium chloride has approximately the same solubility in refrigerated water as it does in body temperature water (35.7, and 36.4 g/100ml respectively), so I don't think that sodium chloride would be precipitating. Especially considering that the concentration of sodium at 0.2g/100ml is far below the solubility of table salt in cold water.
I couldn't find measured data on the solubility of urea in cold water, but by extrapolating the solubility curve, I estimate that it's about 75g/100 ml at refrigerator temperatures, in other words, about twice as soluble as salt.
creatinine at refrigerator temperatures has a solubility of about 0.6 g/100ml. At body temperature it is described as "slightly soluble". Solubility depends on pH, with normal urine pH levels making it less soluble. So if I were betting on what's precipitating out, I'd guess the creatinine, or other minor components.
In Permaculture design synergistic constellations of plants are known as "Guilds". The "Build the Guild" event expands the idea of a Guild to include the art of assembling Guilds of people that collectively vision and implement change in their communities.
Please join Onsen Farm and Desert Springs Co-op for five days of learning, hands on projects, good food, camaraderie and soaks in the natural hot springs baths.
Joseph Lofthouse Bill Chisholm
The fall planted winter wheat cover crop did poorly. It wasn't reliably winter hardy. So I replanted the field today into garbanzos, lentils, and vetch. I expect to plant squash in about 8 weeks. I finished planting just as it started raining. Because I don't have irrigation in the spring, I try to do most of my planting a day or two before rains are expected. By the time the storm passes, the seeds are typically germinated, and the roots are into the residual moisture from winter.