Hope all are well.
I need help. My rocket mass heater suddenly has smock again. Look at this, why?
Also, I want to present my solar food dehydrator. I learn from Erica's, but hers is so complicated, need to use the electric saw to cut woods, so I alter the idea into use plastic barrel and ducts. However, I don't see the wind come into the barrel. This is the same idea as RMH. Hope you can help me. I put my hand on the top chimny and see no air flow. How do I get air to come into the barrel to dry my food. Please help
I found many of these worms in my soil. I grow vegetable in 5 gallon bucket. Yesterday I found many of this kind of worm in my bucket of soil. Are these worms good or bad for my plant. Would they come out of soil and worm up to my plants eat them?
Life is back to normal again. The flame and smoke (if any) know which direction to go, which is the burn turnnel, and they go directly to that direction, no more wondering around like lost soul doesn't know where to go and then go up the feed tube, horri... horri... ble
By your advice, I did flip the T yesterday, but the problem is my cob bench is very long 12 feet and I have only 2-3 feet of space at the end of the bench to the wall. I tried the extendable stick, but the max of the stick is still only 8 feet. So 4 feet can’t be accessed to. This time is good because I broke the bench so I have access to it. But next year I don’t want to break the bench again. 4 feet not cleaning is a lot to cause problem. As you have said only one object fall into the duct enough to cause problem. So I finally bought another T. I found a flimsy T at Home Depot. It’s kinda small so it fits in the space.
But I found out an issue. I think this is the reason cause my RMH to have problem:
Before I had this RMH, I used a conventional wood stove heater for 1 year. Because the high heat went directly from the stove to the duct out the exhaust with out going through the cob bench, made the duct deteriorated. I used that same duct in the same place as my vertical duct for my RMH. Yesterday I saw this vertical duct had a hole, big one, 2X4 inchies, right inside the CH. That’s why the CH was so smoky, and my dad keeps burning little … The old duct I used only one more year compare to other ducts. That old one was worn out terriblely compare to other ducts. So the old one is 2 years in service and the new is one year in service, yet the old duct and the new duct of one year apart look like a 70 grandma and a 13 years old little teenager. Hight heat of the conventional wood stove done terrible to the duct.
What kind of effect would that big hole in the vertical duct done to my RMH?
The place I cant reach is the new extention with the elbow. What do you think if I take out the elbow, put a 1feet duct in it and put cob around, I turn the duct so it won't stay put, when it dry out some what, I will pull the duct out so I can have a new clean out (for cleanning purpose), and I will put a cap there seal off. so that spot will not have duct but it has a clean out. The spot is too tight to put another T like the other end. It doesn't work so I have it bare with no duct. Would that work?
I do have a lot of soot. The kind of soot which hanging down like bunch of messy hair stick together into little bunch, around 1 inches long. Enclosed is the picture I took from one of my duct when clean out. So, I have to clean out all of my ducts? You mean these soots cause burn back and smoke? But why do I have soots now? Last time I clean out after 1 season of hard burn and it is much better than this, no soot. Just one month since my last clean out and this time it was horrible with soot
you are right about the extension. One last part of the duct I can't clean out, but I can put the hose of the shop vac in there and try my best.
The duct as a manifold sticks into the barrel was my original version. My RMH gone through a lot of "new model". I no longer have that kind of manifold. Mine is the hand made big manifold. My RMH is kind a "Intel Core i8" now. I mean went through a few times of upgrade and better model
I have a lid and I already opened it this morning. The heat riser is in tact and good. I have fired bricks for my heat riser. Except that it was so dirty. I forgot to take picture of it.
This year it is not that cold, but my dad likes to burn, so he burns a little bit, not a full feed tube, half a feed tube for couple of hours, since mid-Oct until now. I think it's not hot enough to burn all the inside so black black dirty. The heat riser has layer of black didn't see before. Before it had some white ashes cover the yellow fired brick, this time I opened it, it was black and dirty, I had to have something to scrape it.
But my RMH was fine until one week now the flame started to dance like lost soul doens't knnow what direction to go, think my RMH have no draft. So the flame dance around weakly and burn up, sending black smoke
The video I posted after fixing my clean outs, look pretty good. My burning is reasonable running into the burn tunnel and no smoke even my redo portion was still wet. Now my RMH totally burns up and smoke up, black smoke all over the green house. What's going wrong. Please give me advise, what would cause this burn up and smoke up, and how do I fix it please
Actually I should not whining. I changed my mind lately. Before they showed me to do that clean out using a shop vac. But now I think I want to clean out using shop vac and I want see the inside. Already done with everything and run test 3 times. Seems normal to me. Don't seems like having big change or big problem. Here is the burn. Weather is 75 F out side
It's time to clean out the ducts and I found out my clean out doesn't work. I can't clean the ducts because of the 90% elbows connect to the clean out. I had to break down my bench one more time to fix it so that the clean out would fit for the clean out job. This is the third time I had to break down my bench.
In the future if you see someone do this kind of clean out with the elbow connect to it, please let them know they can't clean the duct with that. Before when I did my bench, I upload my pics so that you guys would give me tips in case I did something wrong. No one say any thing about this clean out and now I had to redo it, huhuhuhuhuh
Here is my plan: I can easily find a pot diameter 12 inches with a glass lid tightly fit the pot. I will have someone help cut out the bottom of that pot. The feed tube, I will have round shape around the pot, with the pot a little out so I can have the lid cover it. This satisfy the requirement you said, "only one air source".
The glass lid help me to see everything going on inside.
The thing which mainly determine if it work or not is the bottom of the feed tube. I still not sure how to make the groove to allow air in. Someday when you burn your mag, would you record from the air way so we can have a better view of how the firewood not blocking the airway.
For what I see from your video and pictures, I can't tell the high of the groove. Yours is a 6" right, so your burn tunnel is should be 5.25 inches if it is square. Now you have a groove. So, if I use two firebricks make into a triangle at the bottom (the groove), I will put cob to support those two bricks so they can stay diagnose like yours, would that work?
I am thinking of doing this Mag when my dad can no longer help me burning the RMH. I have some questions please advise:
1) Your giant feedtube is some barrels welded together, but that's too complicated for me to even think about. Can I use firebricks? As long as I make the feedtub big like your with the groove at the bottom for air and a side airway like yours, do you think that would work? Is any one already try this please let me know
2) Your airway has a fan, I don't think I can do that. Does it work if my is just an opening with no fan
3) so the bottom of your feedtube is not flat, it has a groove for air, how deep is this groove below the burn tunnel? the deepest middle point
4) Your heat riser is of full size firebricks or half-firebrick? How tall is your heat riser? it looks pretty short?
To increase draft/draw, I think the high chimney should be first priority. That's what I learn from the guy at Permies, and I totally agree to it. I had low chimney before and it wasn't good. Until they told me to crease chimney and that's one of the great change to my RMH. The high chimney had chance to meet the free win blow by, and that definitely help increase draft/draw. But if we have the high chimney and then have the silly cap like one in my first photo, then that counter the effect of the advantage of the free win blow on top. So if we have high chimney to meet free air blow by, then allow the air to blow by, by having good cap with wide open space. That's my 2 cent opinion, it should remain theory until someone test and confirm it. All I said should be 2 cent opinion and remain theories until confirm.
However, what is a standard static cowl? Excuse my English. I am not a native born, would you post a picture of the standard static cowl. I want to see in case I want to change my cap to a new one
The coil is for hot water. My hot water is different than your hot water. Your hot water is for house hold use, so the hotter the better. My hot water is for the fish pond, so at any point it has to be lower than 100 degree otherwise it will kill all the bacteria then my fishes will be in trouble. I put that coil on top of the barrel. The pump continuously pumps water through the coil, it heats water up just a little. I can't put it at the hot spot because too hot kill my bacteria. This coil is not that good, the water run through the coil increase only a few degree, so I burn RMH 8 hours a day to keep my ponds at 70 degree. I have 2 ponds, 425 gal and 275 gal.
I was thinking about good draft/draw in your RMH. The manifold may have added to good draft/draw, but in your case I think it is the chimney cap, same as my case. Before I don't have good draft/draw, then changes was made with bigger manifold, then higher chimney, I got better draft/draw of course, but I think my RMH had very good draft/draw when changed to a new cap for my chimney.
The attached first photo is not a good cap, will not give good draft/draw, but the second cap in the second photo, I notice the different. The photo is not clear, but the second cap is 6 inches away from the chimney. I think the big open space between the chimney and the cap allows the win to blow by and create good draft/draw.
Your chimney cap is a T 6 inches, right? I think the 6 inches T cap too, would have big open space between chimney and top for win to blow by.
We need some one to do experiment. If someone would change their cap to one with big open space in between cap and chimney, and notice if the draft/draw be any different.
I am not sure about this, because a lot of changes made to my RMH during the time. Hope someone would change their cap and observed. My good cap is only $4.00
I have two tools to split wood. The Hydraulic log splitter is very good to break big log. but then cutting them seems taking time. So I use Smart splitter to split them. Go on youtube to see how they perform and see if you like them
I just want to let you know, the cob in my extended bench is dried out. The flue got better temperature. At the top of the flue before going out the roof runs from 110 to 130. I don't see any thing different with the RMH's performance when added 5 feet bench, except that my flue is now has reasonable temperature, and the extended bench is hot enough for me to dried my firewoods on it, 110 -135 degree normally (I made this part of the bench with only 3 inches of cob above of the duct).
This should be it for now. I mean I wont' bother you any more, because I consider I am successfully done with my RMH. I won't do any more change to my RMH for now.
Thank you every one for helping me so far. Thank you Glenn, Allen, Shillo, Satamax, Thomas, Eric ... and Erica and everyone else. Thanks for being patient with me, someone who has no idea what she's doing. Looking back into when I first built my RMH by learning on youtube , I really cracked myself up. I went back to the old thread and read my post when I first reported here my problem and my reading, I really had rediculous numbers. Back then, after I burned my RMH for half an hour, with no cob or thermal mass yet. measurement was on bare duct, and below was the temperature reading which I reported:
Where connected to barrel: 88
At the U-turn: 87
After U-turn: 77
Verticle duct up the roof: 71
Hahah, that's how my RMH performed back then.
It is such a long way for me but I am so happy I stick to it to the end. I think, from now on, I will get by winter just fine with out using the electric water heater. In my area, every year we have less than 10 days below 30 degree, and those days normally are at the end of Nov and beginning of Dec. The rest of December normally from 30-35 degree. January mostly from 35-40 degree. So I already went through the coldest days of the year with no problem at all. And my fishes this year, never a day that they quit eating. The pond water temperature pretty much around 68 -70, lowest water temperature was above 63 degree so far, except for some days I didn't burn RMH due to holiday and due to reworked on my duct to extended my bench, the water temperature went down to 60 degree.
However, I think the best thing about RMH at all is the electric bill. Last year, from Nov to Feb, I got more than $100 increased in my monthly electric bills due to electric water heater. Last year I have only 1 pond. Even so, with electric water heater, my pond normally below 60 degree, and for many days it was dropped lower than to 55 degree. My fishes quit eating very often last year. It was a tough battle for a 1000W and a 300W electric water heaters to heat a 450 gal pond in a GH which was ice cold.
Also, the other good thing about RMH is, with RMH my GH always warm and nice and firewood is free. Electric water heater can only heat the water, the GH is cold all the time.
Again, thank you everyone, and I wish you all a very happy new year
By the way, I coppied F Styles and cemented the top of my bench. I just cemented the top, not the side. For a GH, I think that this is pretty enough!
I am done cob the new section. I am so glad I extended my thermal bench. I shot at the cap of the new clean out, which is 5 ft away from the old bench, and it was 175 degree with wet cob on top of it. Imagine how much heat waste if I don't extend it.
At the bottom of vertical flue after the last elbow, 125, at the top before go out the roof is 110 (90 at the beginning, 100 after 2 hours burn, 110 after 4 hours burn). This is too low right? But the cob is wet. I will give it a few days for the cob to dry off to see what is the real temperature. If it too low at the top before going out the roof, does it mean I have no draw? What happen if I have no draw? What is the symtom and how is it going to effect my RMH?
I attached clip of burn, please see if I have draw or not.
The RMH is still normal. Cap of barrel is above 630 after 1 hour burn (Before it was like this too). I burn for 4 hours and don't see any problem, no burn up, no building up of red charcoal, and I heard rocket sound too. Since my dad took over the burning job, I didn't hear the rocket sound even I was in the GH. Today I burn to see if everything is normal, and I heard the rocket sound once in a while. Seem ok right? But I just want to learn, what is the symptom if I don't have draw and how is it effect my RMH please
My goodness, 25 years ago. How come I didn't know about this until now. I need hot water!
My question is, Permies talks a lot about heat shock explosion or boom squirt, When the RMH too hot all of a sudden bring water up to boiling in too quick cause explosion in copper coil. Or when power is out and the pump doesn't work to put water, too hot water cause steam burst as well. Is Thermo-bilt solve that problem? Do I still get boom squirt with thermo-bilt if power out or heat shocl?. Is this coil for RMH?
Glenn, I didn't fully understand your description of how to do it, I already don't like it. A barrel on my bench? How ugly. I want a pretty thermal mass. I had a second barrel at the end of the bench before, but it's so ugly and bulky so I took it out threw it away
I decided to break the bench and extend the duct. Here is gut picture. Tomorrow I will cob it
I don't want to make the brick box. Brick boxs make it easier for me to cob and form the bench. But at this location it's not that hot. Do you think it is ok to have brick for the outside wall, and the inside, i pour cob to the wall of the house. Is it ok?
Pex is not that simple, we have to buy tools for it. Also when it's cold and we need to burn RMH, with this permanent pex coil we can't burn then it's not good. I think I will break down partial of the bench to extend the duct (extend the thermal bench).
I think of what Glen said, any kind of duct extend can help radiate heat. I was thinking of extend the duct in the open section where the 3rd clean out is, so I don't have to break the bench. Look at the photo where my dad falling into sleep, the third clean out. If I can take out that T and extend the duct to the left then u-turn ... That would be the easiest, but how do I take out that T since everything is tighten up and inline. Look like I still have to break out the bench just to take out that T, right? Do you know any way to take that T out?
Allen, you said many times listen to the sound of the RMH to see if is working fine or burning fine. My RMH never makes sound. I told myself because I use the full size brick so it didn't make sound. But I wonder if something is wrong with it having no rocket sound
I used infrared thermal heat gun. So it is true that it's on surface only and hotter in middle of duct
Oh my goodness, now if I have to redo the duct, which means beside breaking down the new cob, I also have to break partial of the original bench in order to bring out the duct to extend it... I feel sick from tiredness already. I think I will take away the new 4 ft added cob to expose the duct again and here is what I think I would do (coil Allen, yes), please see if it works:
As you see in this attached photo: The end of the tube of the returning water from the coil to the pond, is above the surface of water. So in case power's out, if the water in coil heat up with steam, the steam does have way to exhaust. Would that eliminate chance of explosion from steam burst? No? not yet? Ok, I don't have a way to make detachable coil or slip-in coil for the vertical flue because both end of the flue are locked off. So once we have coil around the flue, it will be permanent. So in case of power out, the only way we can deal with permanent coil is stop burning the RMH.
As I notice that the RMH is cooling down quite quickly if we stop burning. I think tomorrow I will run a test, a simulation of power out. In the middle of burning when RMH is hot, I stop the burning, pull out all the burning wood from the feed and turn off the pump on one of the coil and then I will monitor to see if the coil getting hot to dangerous or it getting hot a little and then cooling down as the RMH cooling down. If it getting hot a little and then cooling down with the RMH then there is no danger there. I will let my dad know when power out then stop burning RMH and pull out all the burning woods and dip them in a bucket of water. I already have a bucket of water next to him anyway. Then I can have coil around the flue to get some hot water. I will use pex tubing instead of copper. Pex is plastic but pex endures heat up to 220 degree. Plastic will not explode right? It just melt if it too hot, right? So in term of safetyness, pex is better than copper. So, for permanent coil, I think we can only stop burning the RMH if the power is out
Glenn, I don't understand what you really mean in this post. Did you mean we should not added cob? I already did this morning for 2 more ft.
I put cob on the flue because I would think about it as though I extended my thermal mass, my horizontal flue was only 12 ft, 2 ft added last week and 2 ft added this morning would make 16 ft. I would think the longer thermal mass, the more heat absorb into it and less heat left over to the chimney. I heard horinzotal flue should be 20 ft.
I think the extended mass did absorb a lot of heat. The 2 ft I added last week, they are 6" and 8" around the flue, and the temperature on the cob is 120-125. It is hotter than the bench itself. The bench is only 100 and 110. The bench is thicker, 10 inches to the surface.
Also, the scrap wood I use right now is very good, totally dried leaves no ashes and produces more heat I think, that's why the flue is hot. However, I already did the cob before I read your post, I think it did help absorb a lot of heat
Glen, so that's it then. The not so dry wood really produce lot of ashes. Some time I see good clean no ashes for a few days and then suddenly full of ashes. I start realized that the amount of ashes associate with the wood dried or not dried. Yes I can do that. I can put wood on the bench near the barrel so they will be more dried for use after next week.
Thank you Allen for your long post explanation. I will have to read it again and again to understand it.
I am pretty sure the firewood not so dried give a lot of ashes. Yesterday I had the awesome dried scrap wood again, and I see no ashes at all. This year I will prepare a lot of firewood for use next year so they will be 2 seasons, should burn awesome with no ash.
I have this kind of dried scrap wood for two weeks. I will keep you posted after two if I see any ashes at all. Yesterday and this morning, no, no ashes, totally clean, so nice.
Thank you everyone for your helps, explanations, and advises. Have a great day and great holiday
Shilo, My dad covered the feed tube during burn for a while and then my chimney got very hot. Glenn and Allen said stop that right a way, and my dad already stopped cover feed tube while back. There are two issues can't stop which are long hour burning and thick paint to barrel, which I have to add cob to the flue. The flue is now ok
May I ask why cover feed tube causes chimney fire?
Maybe firewood is not so dried give me ashes. Because for a period of time I had no ashes at all. Those days I used real dried scrap wood from some manufacture, I had no ashes at all. But I don't have that kind of dried wood that often. I get my firewood from people who cutting down their trees, most of them are totally green when they were cut. Even I had them in sunny area for a few months (since April this year until Oct then I storage them to use now), I don't think they are that dried yet. I heard it need 2 years.
But I would want to learn. What are the reasons produce more ashes in the RMH please