In some varieties of garlic, if you pry those out right after they show up, you'll find undeveloped flowers underneath. With the bulbils removed, the flowers have room to develope and make seeds. I hear that not all garlics do this, but I only have Chesnok Red, which does.
On the other hand, in the future, removing the stem those bulbils form on (the scape) is said to let your bulb grow larger.
For what it's worth, I'm kinda in the same area as you* and I had a beauregard volunteer this year. Don't know if you can count on it, it may have been a microclimate thing. It was in a raised bed, middle of the garden, covered by a weed "jungle".
*Draw a triangle with Springfield, Joplin and Branson at the points. I'm just about in the middle of that triangle.
Do you have an aquarium? I suspect you might be able to overwinter one by rooting a cut off top in water, then dropping the roots in the fish tank to get it out of the way. I'd keep the rest above the surface. Some terrestrial plants don't mind going aquatic, but I don't know if that includes sweet potatoes. I'd let the vines grow as high as they would grow upright, but cut them off when they tried to lay down. That way they could gather light, but with a minimum footprint.
Byrd Miller wrote:I have grown some glorious Hopi grey and spaghetti squash close to each other. This was probably a mistake. Is there any way to know if the seeds I have are tainted ( for lack of a better word)?
1) Those squash are different species. Interspecies crossing does happen, but probably isn't super likely.
2) A cross probably won't be obvious until you grow the seeds out. You can think of the seeds as individual babies and the fruit as the womb. The fruit this year will look and taste like the fruit of the mother plant it grew on. (When you see a pregnant lady, you can't ID the father by looking at her belly. She made that part alone, the father's genes didn't play a part.) I doubt you can tell by looking at the seeds, either. I think the part of the seed that's visible is genetically all from the mother. I haven't looked that up, it's possible that I'm wrong. Obviously there will be paternal genetics involved in forming the embryo inside, but you can't see it.
3) Joseph Lofthouse has made a chart comparing traits of different squash species. Go ahead and compare your seeds to it. I expect it will just show the species of the mother. When you grow out your seeds, compare the plants to it. Watch for traits of both species to show on the same plant. (Or traits mid-way between the two species. Hopi Grey is a Maxima, Spaghetti is a Pepo.)
For lots of us, interspecies crosses are a great thing. I recommend growing out any crosses you discover. But it's your garden. You can also use the chart to cull out crosses if you want to. Please know that if you find evidence of a cross, and you don't want that, you can offer your unwanted seeds for trade here. I bet someone will be interested and give you something cool for them.
I'd forgotten the terms until one of the articles reminded me, but it looks to me as if they have styles. On the red one, I think I can see anthers. Not really sure on the yellow one. I'll try to get a look at the actual flowers. I'm not sure my pictures are high enough resolution. I'll also try to watch for pollen and pollenators. Only a few sunflowers survived from our first planting, but we planted again last week. Some of them actually came from Joseph in a trade. I think there's still time before frost to get a look at those blooms. I know they'll be normal, so that should give me something to compare to.
Jan White wrote:https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/sunflower/pollenless-sunflower-varieties.htm
I just skimmed the first article in my search results, but it sounds like they won't produce seed anyway.
I think, but don't know for sure, that the author was mistaken, or only partially right. Since a typical sunflower has both male and female sex organs, if the male part isn't working, that particular plant can't produce seeds alone. I don't see why it couldn't produce seed with the help of a pollen donor. That would be a hybrid, which I don't mind, but in the next generation the mother's genetics are already half gone, and it'll happen again because CMS is inherited from the mother. In a few generations the genetics of the mother will be diluted into oblivion, all except for the CMS. The offspring get to keep that forever.
Here's a link to something Joseph wrote on the subject. I suspect it's a little more enlightening than my writing.
Jan White wrote:I'm far from an expert, but the anthers seem to be present so as long as they get pollen on them you're good to go. No?
I would think so. I tapped 'em a few times and didn't see anything, but I hear things can shed pollen one part of the day, but not another. I'm hoping I was just there at the wrong time, but we'll see. My next move will be to check out the article linked above. Maybe I'll learn something useful.
Forgot to mention: My understanding is that CMS can be caused by genetic modification (GMO), but isn't necessarily. In at least some species, it occurs naturally. No idea which is the case for sunflowers.
Anne Miller wrote:I had not heard of CMS so would you explain how this would affect the seed production?
Joseph Lofthouse has written on it a fair bit, but most of his pictures are of carrots. It's Cytoplasmic Male Sterility. Plants with CMS can't produce pollen. Therefore any seeds produced by that plant have a different variety as the father. Needless to say, the trait is inherited from the mother. Not always SO terrible, but if you grow only one variety, you either won't get fertile seeds, or the ones you get will be 50% what your neighbor grew, or 50% a wild relative. (In carrots, this can mean the F1 is 50% Queen Anne's Lace, F2 is 75%, etc.) You can pretty quickly loose the genetics you were trying to preserve. Joseph culls out any plant with CMS so his saved seeds won't have it. I think that may be wise for me to consider as well.
My sunflowers have what I'm guessing are fairly normal looking anthers, but I really am a noob at botany, particularly the reproductive parts. I'd like to know if they have CMS or not before they set seed, so I can make informed decisions about what to save. If anyone wouldn't mind taking a look for me, I have some pictures I hope are close up enough. (If I need better pictures, please let me know how I can make them more useful, and I'll try again.)
I have some new helpers that showed up in my composter. They look like some kind of insect larva, but not like a typical maggot. I wonder if they could be soldier fly?
I'm hoping to find out if they're beneficial, in which case I may encourage them, or even transplant some to other places I could use them, or detrimental, in which case I may try to remove them or at least keep them confined.
Also, I'd like to see some navigation controls. Simple up, down, jump to page number would probably be fine. (I suspect the scrolling would be fine for most folks.) On my tablet swiping upward shows me the next text or the next page. Swiping down, though, refreshes the html page. I'm back at the first page and have to swipe over and over until I get back to my spot.
I really think bookmarking, some nav controls, and having the reader remember my place and take me back there would be huge improvements.
Have you considered Kong balls / toys? I've never had a dog that needed the extra toughness, so I haven't used these, but they have a good reputation. I can't find the quote anywhere, but I used to get a pet catalog that advertised them as "almost indestructible". Allegedly, they used to say indestructible, until some guy gave one to his lion.
Auntie Bee wrote:I would love some bulbils, if you have any to spare. <3 I know it's been a year, but I figure it's about that time again.
I removed my bulbils today. I usually just let them fall on the ground, and some of them root and come back up. I totally forgot about saving some until I was about half way done with the last scape. The picture is what I have left. The rest fell into the mint or the mulch. If you're still interested, moosage me your address and they're yours.
I just re-read some of the other thread I linked above. Turns out my question was already answered:
Bryant RedHawk wrote:..You can compost just about anything organic in one of these, including pet poop with no worries about contaminating your soil, the bacteria and fungi along with the worms working will take care of the pathogens should any be present.
I guess then I'll give it a try, and just handle carefully. Thank you!
I'm thinking of scooping the litter box and burying the results in my worm tower. It that's a stupid idea, now's the time to talk me out of it. I understand from reading these forums that cat excrement tends to have worse pathogens than other manures I'm likely to encounter. Aside from this potential burial, I don't dig in this, so I won't be exposed directly. There are no edibles within 20 - 30 feet. My only cause for concern is my comfrey right next to the tower. I don't plan to disturb the roots anytime soon. But I would like to use some of the leaves. Probably mulch with them, maybe make a fertilizer / tea with them, and possibly experiment with it to stop bleeding or heal cuts. So how mobile are these pathogens? Might they make it down through the worm food, horizontally through the clay and rocks, then up the plant to the stems and leaves? Do I need to keep tossing my cat waste into the unused pasture, or is it safe to bury near comfrey for the worms to break down?
For what it's worth the litter is unscented and made of clay. I think the package says it uses fuller's earth, but that might be a different brand.
"One day Paul thought 'Winter is too cold for my growies, but in summer I have more heat than I want. Wouldn't it be awesome if I could store some to give to my growies in the winter, without using fuel to make new heat or electricity to pump it around? I should try to design a way to do that.'
Dick knew that was a stupid idea, and that it would never work. Somebody on the internet told him the right way to build a greenhouse. Besides, if that 'passive' thing was possible, everyone would already be doing it. Who does this Paul think he is, anyway?
It's your choice: be a Paul, and let's see what can be done.
C'mon, you guys know how that ends, don't make me SAY it.
How to PROPERLY build a greenhouse. You know that minutes of internet research can't be wrong...
I know that's pretty rough. If it's any good, feel free to tweak and polish it.
Have your tomatoes started to flower? I have some in containers where the imported soil is probably quite rich, and they are deep green but with only a few flowers. Uh-oh! I have some in the garden, too, that aren't growing that well but seem to have a bit of fungal damage. I'm worried that the soil in the containers has too much nitrogen. Growing like crazy, deep dark green, but maybe not many tomatoes.
Yes. Flowers and green fruit. Looks like more than I usually get, but I moved to this bed because my other garden didn't get enough sun, so take that with a grain of salt.
Michael Cox wrote:I can’t speak for peppers, but this year I planted tomatoes in the ground for the first time...
For the first few weeks some looked like your peppers, while others were deep green and thriving. A few weeks later they have all got properly established and are growing happily with vigour...
Planting this way was an experiment. I knew tomatoes like manure, but didn't know if they'd grow in it, without soil. So I planted two and waited. They were fairly healthy looking when I bought them, but they became darker green in a week or two. So we planted a few more. Same result. So then we finished planting. A few in the last round were kinda spindly looking, but there was like a gradient all the way from almost yellowish green to nice dark healthy green. The longer they were there, the greener and darker they got. It's why we figured they liked it in there.
I have two jalapeños in the other garden that look perfectly healthy. (Forgot to take a picture.)
It made me wonder if my soil has something in it that the manure lacks. So I scooped up a bunch from some mole hills in the pasture and put about a hand trowel and a half around each plant, mixed with some diatomaceous earth*. I also dusted them with the DE for bug control. I couldn't find my epsom salt, but it'll turn up or I'll get some, and I'll add a little of that too.
*Dr Redhawk once told me that DE can help plants to absorb certain nutrients from the soil, and that it's good for the microbiome.
Bryant RedHawk wrote:If you have some DE you might want to give the soil a light dusting, the silica will do some very good things for your microbiome and it will allow plants to draw in zinc and iron even with excessive quantities of P and K.
The only adjustment I see is in the red circle. It looks like the ear cups probably slide up and down on the wire. What I circled in yellow, is that the screw you referred to? I don't think that's a screw. Notice it always matches the color of the outer ear cup? I think that's cast as part of the ear cup, to let it attach and swivel. I think it's split so the halves can squeeze together to go through the hole, then expand and lock into place.
Lauren Ritz wrote:It really looks like nitrogen deficiency. The leaves at the top look better than the bottom, so probably not sulfur deficiency, and the yellowing appears to be the full leaf rather than being interveinal. Interveinal chlorosis is a symptom of other nutrient deficiencies.
Nitrogen deficiency--Total chlorosis (yellowing) starts on the top of the leaf and eventually the whole leaf is yellow, starts on older leaves
I suspect there's enough nitrogen in the manure. Is there another nutrient the plant needs in order to uptake the nitrogen? Maybe that's deficient?
My peppers and tomatoes are planted together. They're in a new bed I reclaimed from the yard by putting down 6" or so of leaves topped with 2-4" of sheep and goat manure of mixed ages. Later, the whole shebang got mulched with wood chips, probably around 2". The tomato cage runs mostly north - south, with two peppers on the east getting morning sun and two on the west getting afternoon sun. The tomatoes love it.
The peppers don't.
I'm hoping that they're just overwatered or have a deficiency I can solve by adding a little of my actual soil or by mineral amendment or foliar feeding with something organic. I'd welcome opinions. Left to my own devices, they'll probably get a few cups of soil each, a dusting of DE, and a foliar feeding with fish emulsion. I've got some mild chemical fertilizer, miracle grow and osmocote, but would really like to see what can be done without that.
Just following up:
I did finish covering those leaves with manure, and did plant tomatoes and peppers there. Turns out a sheep or goat's gut doesn't kill all the seeds. Meant to mulch it anyway. A nearby city is selling unscreened wood chips for $7 a yard. Right now they're BOGO.
One month since planting. Crowns still doing great, root cuttings only slightly behind. Doing great in three of the four locations where I planted. The only ones not up are under the wisteria. That's the only place where there is only the native soil, and the only place that's only been watered once.
Jessie Kelsch wrote:My husband is recovering from a stroke and for several reasons he watches a LOT of television. If it were up to me we wouldn't watch any... thankfully it's mostly documentaries, but not always. He needs me near him much of the time and so I have been wishing for something permaculture-related to put on the boob tube. Are there any recommendations for streaming services? (Netflix, Hulu, Amazon, CBS.)
Lots of permaculture on youtube. Paul Wheaton, Geoff Lawton, David the Good, Justin Rhodes, and Edible Acres to name a few. I bet those (and the recommended videos youtube will show when you watch them) will keep you busy for a while. Plus, I know Paul and Justin have additional, longer content for sale.
Auntie Bee wrote:I would love some bulbils, if you have any to spare. <3 I know it's been a year, but I figure it's about that time again.
I don't have any bulbils at the moment, but I expect to produce some later. You'll be welcome to some. Do remind me. (I usually set a reminder to do things on my calendar app, but since I don't know when the bulbils will come, I don't know when to set the reminder for.) I expect to have them in late summer or fall.
Matt Todd wrote:...or have any other suggestions to clean this up a bit?
How hard would it be to access electricity from there? Is there room for a veggie or flower or perennial bed? Or a hugel? I think a trash pump, a bucket with holes drilled in it, and optionally a used garbage disposal would let you remove the material from the pond, but not from the site (and also use the nutrients). Or you could pile it around a willow tree. (A new use for Paul's willow bank!)
I think it only smells bad because it's anaerobic. Putting it where the water can drain out, and either turning it to aerate or spreading it thin enough for oxygen to penetrate would probably get rid of the smell, probably in a day or so. Or pile it up, let the top become aerobic, and don't disturb it until it breaks down so you're never exposed to the anaerobic smell.
I think that relationships between people groups from different parts of the world would be better off if we saw that as the only distinction; we look different because our ancestors lived in different places, adapted to the conditions, and were more or less genetically isolated from other groups. We act or sound different because of the cultures we grew up in. The tones of our skin aren't related to our value as people, they're related to better survival in certain geographic regions. Darker skinned people tend to come from near the equator, and have better built in protection from sunburn, and possibly skin cancer than lighter skinned people. Lighter skinned people tend to come from areas farther from the equator, and can better produce vitamin D under the less direct sunlight.
I know that it is only noticed by a few people, but whenever I have to fill out anything that asks my race, I skip to "other" and write in "human". Now and then someone will mention a legit medical reason for the question: people group 'a' are more susceptable to disease 'x' than people group 'b'. I tend to answer that with "My skin's kinda pink. All of my known ancestry came from europe. Write whatever you think you need to."
I subscribe to a youtuber who 3d prints in resin, (seems like plastic) then pours liquid plaster over it. When the plaster hardens, he heats it upside down to melt out the 3d print. Then he has a plaster mold to cast a metal copy of what he printed. It's like lost wax casting, but with resin instead of wax. He mostly casts in silver, bronze and copper, but I bet it'd work with iron or steel if you could get them hot enough to melt. He's using professional equipment now, but in his earlier videos, he made a vacuum chamber and a foundry on the cheap.