I personally worry more about if my garden grows than making sure it is super organic. I would definitely use that horse manure if I had access to it.
The only concern I have ever had with manures is if it is not from my own animals. The owners might have dewormed them and the manure will then kill soil organisms until the dewormers work their way out of the animals system.
I think if you take that horse manure and compost it with woodchips for a year, it will make a great soil ammendment.
Sheep are herd animals and keeping one by itself will be stressful to it. So yes it will likely be loud or try to escape. A single sheep is not a good choice for being incognito. Even when they are not alone, ewes with lambs spend a lot of time calling for their lambs to follow them. Sheep will produce milk, meat and fibre, but no breed of sheep does all 3 well. The milk sheep will be skinny, have less robust lambs, and not so nice wool, some may have reasonably meaty lambs. The sheep with nice wool are mostly dual purpose as meat breeds, these will have just enough milk for their lambs. There are also strictly meat breeds, that have lots of lambs, not so nice wool, and just enough milk to feed all their lambs.
I think you need to decide on priorites to decide what livestock you want. If you want milk and meat, there are some small milking goat breeds, such as the nigerian dwarf, or kinder. Goats would be as loud as sheep. If you want fibre and meat, and a completely undetectable animal, angora rabbits would be worth looking at. Rabbits eat green stuff too.
I have cats but no dog. Coyotes however frequently wander through the yard. They kill cats whenever they can catch them. I have found that as long as cats have something nearby they can climb quickly, they can get to safety very quickly. I recommend having escape routes in the dog area. This can be trees, or posts, or whatever a cat can climb, and enough of them that there is always something close by. If the cats see a dog tunning at them, they should be close enough to something to scoot up to safety. The dogs barking should be enough to train them to stay out of the area, especially if they are up a post in the dog area.
When I was a kid a real treat for breakfast was french toast. Whole wheat bread soaked in egg a bit of milk and maybe vanilla and cinnamon, then fried. Top it with syrup or jam, you could probably even go with peanut butter. This still has a lot of sugar, but one piece of bread will soak up more than one egg. This is a protien boost in a tasty form that is a treat for kids and easy to make. So should be no fights on eating a healthier breakfast.
I second Thomas's opinion. You usually feel ticks crawling on you before they get a chance to bite. They will often crawl for hours before biting in my experience. I usually check myself over before going to bed every night during tick season. With this method I occasionally find one that has bitten me, but it has only been there a few hours. So it is never swelled up and gross. Also most tick borne diseases take a day or 2 to transfer from their saliva. If they get picked off quickly there is not significant danger. Your brothers best protection will be to avoid long grass and bush, then check himself for ticks every time he goes indoors, not poisoning himself to prevent ticks.
If he is really worried ticks can be tested for disease. Where I am health authorities like to monitor tick populations for disease, so it is relatively easy to get a bunch tested. It might not be the same where you are.
A lot of you guys are pretty fast at this stuff. When I butchered my own chickens, it took me close to an hour per bird. I was usually working alone, and my set up was definitely less than ideal. Just plucking took close to 20 minutes. I am kind of a perfectionist though, so that would make it take a bit longer.
If I were to try a larger animal such as a sheep, goat, or pig. I would plan the whole day to do it. I would set up a lot of stuff the day before, then start early. This will allow for mistakes and things to take longer than expected. There is a learning curve to these things and there is no point in trying to do more than you are capable of. It just leads to frustration.
A couple weeks ago, I picked the 3rd tick of the year off myself. I killed it and immediately called in my order for chicks. This summer they will be cute. Then they will give me eggs. Come next spring they will hunt down bugs. So I will be able to enjoy my beautiful outdoors with my wonderful animals.
Celia Revel wrote:A neighbor threw out the idea that it might be cost effective to raise our own beef between our two pastures. Following the basic axiom of celia revel that nothing is ever JUST.... as in we will JUST put a cow out there and let him have at it. My plea is for help by any knowledgeable about cattle to recommend a book that would get us in the right direction and keep the cow as comfortable and happy as possible. Books on doing this naturally and with heritage stock would be more than welcome. I am keenly interested in planting Native grasses and wonder which ones would be good in California. Im also interested in nutritional quality, and I know that some breeds have been tinkered with over the years and have lost various qualities in the process. Oh, and also, would the cow get lonely if it were the only one? Dumb questions, but maybe I need some information about that. I know goats will die of loneliness if left day on end by themselves. Thank You in advance.
The basics of what beef cattle need everyday:
Water, this is the most important nutrient, they need constant access to large amounts of water.
Salt and mineral. Cattle need salt, calcium, phosporus, and several other minerals in certain quantites. Most of these will be labelled as 1:1 or 2:1, this is the calcium phosporus ratio. A local feed store should have something formulated for beef cattle, this will probably be good enough if you follow the directions.
Feed, green growing pasture should meet the needs of any class of beef cattle. When the pasture is not growing you will need hay. Growing animals will need higher quality, look for lots of leaf, nice green colour, and legumes in it. A mature cow can handle lower quality. They will eat between 2-3% of their body weight in dry matter per day, plan for 3% of body weight.
When I worked with cattle, they would come right up to me while the herd was nearby. If one accidently got outside of the fence and away from the herd it would not let anyone within 50 meters. It would be terrified of anything and everything and likely to break fences. Those cattle needed to be in a group of at least 5 to be comfortable. Cattle who were not raised in a large herd would probably not be so herd bound, but that is my experience. Figure on at least 2 animals.
Non daily things cattle need:
Vaccinate, cattle need a clostridial vaccine. Clostridial diseases such as tetanus, botulism, and blackleg have spores in the soil. You cannot avoid exposure. You need to get this from a vet, and there might be other vaccines you need, talk to the vet and ask.
Recognize and treat illness and injury. Use the BAR acronym. Bright, Alert, Responsive, you cannot sneak up on a healthy animal. When it hears you, it's head should come up. It's eyes and coat should reflect light. It should walk normally when you approach. Have someone to call if it doesn't look right, this can be a vet or someone nearby with cattle experience.
Are you looking at breeding? Or just getting a couple young animals and growing them out to butcher weight?
If you are looking at breeding, which would be good if you get a heritage breed, you are looking at a minimum of 2 cows. Then either buying and maintaining a bull, expensive. Or using artificial insemination, which would be difficult to get an AI tech out for only a few cows.
If you mostly just want meat, I recommend buying a couple weaned calves off someone nearby. Breed doesn't matter as long as they are a beef breed. The main influence on the nutrient density of meat is what the animal ate, and even then, only the last ~6 months really matter. Keep them on grass until you can see fat deposits around the tail head. This will likely be when they are over 2 years old.
There is a beef cattle code of practice that lists everything cattle need. It is up to the person to figure out how to meet all the needs. There are multiple books, articles, and magazines about all that. I personally recommend Holistic Managment: A Framework for Desicion Making by Allam Savory. This is more about deciding how to manage your pastures, land and life though.
If you don't have enough grass for 2 full sized animals there are smaller breeds such as dexters that might work. Or you might have to look at sheep or something.
The most intensively I have seen cattle grazed was about 3.5 acres per head. This was after 30 years of improvement through planned grazing. That land is amazingly productive. Those cattle were moderate framed so running dexters on that land could probably be done at 2 acres/head. The cattle were fed bought hay through the winter.
I think on 1 acre you could have 2 dexters without damaging the land. You would need to do a rotation that allowed for complete recovery. This would require bringing in feed for them to supplement pasture. This would work with either dairy or plain meat. For dairy you would want to feed them while milking them, which most people do anyway.
I spent years working at a childrens camp. The kids would carry around a backpack with their stuff for the day. I had to tell them what to bring.
In a public place were they might get seperated from parents:
A bit of money
Contact information so parents can be reached quickly.
If you will be outside a lot:
Extra clothing because children are very good at getting wet or muddy.
A sweater in case it gets cooler.
The last thing is let the kid chose a toy or two, this will help keep them entertained and feeling secure.
A kid who is school aged should be able to carry this much in a backpack.
For a younger kid they should have:
Contact info for parents
A toy or two
Whoever is with them should have a bag with the rest of the stuff on the other list.
Two strand of electric does the trick for me. The top strand is nose height for the adults. The bottom strand is nose height for the fawns.
Both strands have flagging tape every 6-8 feet so that the deer come up and sniff the fence. They get a jolt and leave it alone. This works because there is lots of food outside the garden for them. The fence is enough of a deterant that they don't bother to jump it. When we did not have the bottom strand the fawns would walk under the top strand without seeing it. The does would then jump the fence because the fawn was on the other side. There is also no other electric fences nearby that they have developed the habit of jumping.
I wonder if you are giving him too much milk at one time. An ewe will tend to walk away after a lamb takes some milk, plus the babies usually have to compete with each other to get milk. If you are giving him all the milk he will take at a time it may be too much and upset his stomach. At that age he could also be getting milk scours, check his manure.
Is he also hunching his back up sometimes? It should be pretty level if he is comfortable. If it is hunched that is a sure sign that he has an upset stomach. He may just be trying to chew his cud though, spend some time with the ones that are with their mums. It may just be how baby lambs behave.
Shawn Klassen-Koop wrote:I grew up in the coldest city of its size in the world. Yes, I'm proud of that. And I highly respect anyone who lives where it is colder yet.
I'm looking for the kind of thing where you could be outside for a few hours, not just making a mad dash for the nearest building.
Soo, Winnipeg? Right? I grew up in a small town in North Central Sk. So a bit farther north and just as cold if not colder.
I also have a lot of unnatural material for winter clothing. Currently I wear a lot of fleece for underlayers, tightly woven cotton as an outer layer to break the wind, and wool socks and wool midlayers.
I think that your question of what can be locally grown for warmth has a best answer. Sheep. Sheep do very well on Canadian prairies. Wool wicks sweat away and insulates extremely well. For a wind breaking outer layer we can use leather. Sheep skin is thin enough that it is not overly heavy, unlike cowhide which is not great for daily wear.
Before white people came here, the first Nations People used Bison hides to keep warm and did fine. One of the most valuable trading items when people from Europe came was wool blankets, I think this says something about the value of wool.
I think the vegans need to stay inside though if they want to wear natural material grown in Canada.
Is your yearling in a pasture alone? That is the impression I am getting. If this is so she is probably stressed about being alone, cattle are herd animals and this could stress her enough that she refuses to eat.
If she is properly weaned so she does not try to nurse from momma cow you can just put her back in with the other two. She will be curious about the calf but should not hurt it. She will probably sniff it a lot and maybe try to play by running around and bucking.
If she is not properly weaned there are a few options. You could use a nose flap and put her back with momma cow. You could do a fencline wean system where she can be close to the others but unable to try nursing. If neither of those options work for you, you could sell her. If someone can mix her into a herd somewhere else she would be perfectly happy.
Your heifer is most likely a year old not 10 months. A cows gestation is 9 months same as a persons. It is incredibly difficult to rebreed a cow less than 3 months after parturition.
What I understand is that you want a dog with the energy to chase deer for fun. The size needed to make a deer run. A proper coat to be comfortable in summer and winter. It also needs to understand where home is and not run away.
A neighbor has a couple of pitbull mixes that do this, and have also guarded chickens. I know a lot of people who have had labs. A friend of mine found a puppy in a ditch a couple years ago, it does exactly what you are looking for.
Finding a dog that will chase deer and stick around home is not asking for much. I would suggest checking with a humane society or spca. Most of the dogs that will likely work for you will be labelled as a "lab mix" or a "sheperd mix" depending on colour. There is a high likelihood that these dogs will have no actual labs or sheperds in their back ground. The labels come from the colouring and size.
Ask if you can take rescue dogs for a walk to evaluate their personality. They should be friendly and playful to both people and other dogs. It should come when called, immediately when you have treats with you.
The other place to look is at local advertising. Someone nearby may have a litter of puppies to place. If the parents are large, energetic and friendly. Then the puppies will probably work for you.
Dillon Nichols wrote:I am guessing there is a point at which things are just to sparse, where the '5-24 hour grazing' area is so big and vegetation so spread out that the animal traffic damage outweighs the manure benefits.
Where this point is... not so sure.
Surprisingly enough it works the other way. On extremely arid land there is even greater improvement with livestock. Acording to Savory in extremely arid places the soil will form an algal cap that reduces the ability for rain to soak into the soil and seeds cannot germinate through it. In these places large ruminants need to be excited. This is easiest do do with salt. Their hooves will tear up the algal cap and allow rainwater in and seeds to germinate.
My soil does not form this cap (too much cold) so I cannot say from personal experience how necessary it is. There are lots of examples though of this being done and working.
You could keep a few sheep or goats, just for your own use. There would be some improvement if they are grazed properly. But with that small of a space in a desert I would probably stick to poultry. If you can have them in a mobile coop or tractor you can move them the same as you would ruminants, and get the soil improvement effects anyway.
Savory mimics the natural herding behaviour of wild ruminants. A large herd, the bigger the better, will spend a very short period of time in one place, anywhere from one hour to 5 days. During this time all grass is bitten off or trampled and pooped on. The herd will not return to that spot until the grass has completely regrown, this might be months later or even a year later.
The manure left holds a lot of good nutrients for the plants but it takes time for the plants to be able to use it. If ruminants return before the plants are completely recovered, the plants don't get the advantage of the manure and are weakened.
Soil type has nothing to do with it, Savorys' methods work great on my sandy soil. If goats are causing a problem it is because they are regrazing plants before they fully recover. The solution is to move them frequently, and not let them return for a sufficient recovery time. If this cannot be managed, then goats don't fit on your permaculture farm.
As far as I can tell the point of electric cars now is that a societal change is expected to take longer than electrical generation change does.
Currently people drive gas powered cars, to refuel requires a 10-15 minute stop at a gas station. Then we continue on our way. Large scale adoption of electrical vehicles will require a lot of changes. Gas stations will no longer have regular business of people stopping to fuel up. They might have to pay to put in charging stations. The sales of gasoline will taper off over several years. People will no longer be stopping quickly, buying a few things and going. Charging stations will become places people stay at for an hour at a time, so will be restaurants, libraries, places for children to play. Most people will charge their cars overnight at home, so this will not be a huge business for anyone. This will be a huge change for society and will take many years to accomplish.
The source of electricity on the other hand is a whole different thing to be changed. This is all about the companies providing electricity. Currently most electricity is sourced from non-renewable energy. While a small portion comes from renewable sources. Relatively few comapnies are in charge of producing electricity for a large number of people. The small number of people in charge of theses businesses can make changes happen much more quickly than is possible to do with our society as a whole.
Currently buying an electrical vehicle and charging from the grid will not cut your personal carbon emmisions by much, if any. But buying and using an electrical vehicle will support the companies who are developing the new technology needed. Driving it around will let businesses know that this is coming and they need to adapt for the future social changes. The mass social change is expected to take much longer than the relatively simple task of changing how electricity is provided.
About me, I am just your typical Saskatchewanian small town girl. Grew up in a small town, the dominant industry was agriculture. When I was little I thought all food came from the garden.
I watched a lot if people not make money farming so I went looking for a different way. I found some stuff on permaculture, that made a ton of sense. Then I found out about Holistic Management and did an 8 month internship on a ranch. Now I am figuring out how to make a go of it on my family farm.
I am single and straight, so if any guys are interested message me. I could always use more friends too so if you are in Sask also let me know.
In 2017 I experimented and raised a bunch of broiler chickens. I sold most, but I didn't manage to sell them all. Luckily I had lots of storage room in multiple chest style freezers.
Over the winter one freezer quit working. I ended up contacting the local friendship center and donating 12 chickens. A woman there was able to find 12 families that could cook and use whole roasting chickens that day. I got a donation receipt for them.
If you don't know where to find people who need the help I highly recommend contacting your nearest friendship center. The people running the place will know who needs and can make use of whatever you have to offer.
Another thought, many people don't know how to cook. And many poor people do not have the equipment to cook. If you are working with a church they will likely have a kitchen. If someone is able to do a parents and kids cooking class where they cook and then take the food home this would be extemely valuable to those in need.
I would suggest not introducing a novel endophyte fescue. It would be outcompeted by the kentucky 31 and disappear within a few years. The kentucky 31 endophyte makes this the toughest grass for the conditions present.
The toxin in the endophyte infected fescue works by constricting blood vessels. To manage cattle ingesting this there are 2 good options. Red clover contains something that dilates blood vessels. If cattle are grazing a mix of fescue and red clover the effects of the endophyte are minimized. Some cattle will be naturally more resistant to the effects of the endophyte. Cull hard for animals that do poorly on this pasture.
Watch animals closely in cold weather. The constricted blood vessels will make them more vulnerable to frostbite.
Introducing eastern gamagrass would probably be a good idea. It is very difficult to shade out legumes with tall grasses, esp vetch tends to respond by growing taller and using vines to support itself.
I like to read a website called on pasture which is all about pasture management one of the authors has published a lot on how he grazes cattle on kentucky 31
elle sagenev wrote:I brought home 2 AGH piglets last fall. One of them coughed and threw up, which caused me great concern. It stopped though. I figured maybe it choked and that was it. Now that it's cold this pig is coughing again. No throwing up this time. Is it because I feed them straight in the dirt? Or is this a BIG problem?
Do they also poop where you feed them? Pigs naturally root so eating some dirt should be fine as long as it is not contaminated with anything. My guess is you feed them on clean dirt.
If the other piglet is not affected it is probably not something contagious. There could be something wrong with its lungs that the cold triggers. If its condition does not get worse I suggest growing it to butcher size them butchering it. Don't keep it as breeding stock in case this is a problem it can pass on.
If it does not eat, drink, or gain weight find a livestock vet or someone with more pig experience to talk to.
You can usually find palm or palm kernel oil in highly processed foods such as; chocolates, cheesy spreads, most margarines, cheap ice cream, cheap processed dairy foods in general. Anything intended to keep skin or hair nice might have palm oil and palm kernel oil in it.
Start reading ingredient lists on these types of things and you will find it frequently. I have been trying to avoid it the last few years too.
Phil Grady wrote:i have geese and chickens, i'm not sure if i have the African or the Chinese, but their big. unfortunately they only produce a verbal warning when there are predators about. they run away as fast as the chickens do.
I am going to get chickens again this year. Last time I had chickens I had cornish cross, and kept them in tractors. This spring I will get layers. I want them to do more foraging than they would be able to in tractors.
I frequently have foxes and coyotes in the yard so to free range them I will need some sort of guard. I am thinking of getting a few geese with them. I know some people here have both chickens and geese so I would like input on a few things.
Protective ability: I know geese are supposed to defend their territory. The coyotes in my area hunt by themselves mostly and there are always lots of prey in the fields. Would an agressive acting goose be able to chase it away or just look like prey?
Diet: does anyone feed their geese chicken feed? I know geese need less protein than chickens, will they eat too much chicken feed if it is freely available? They would have unlimited access to grass in summer and probably hay in winter. Tell me about any issues with this you have had.
Breed selection: are there breeds of geese that will be more agressive about driving off predators?
Are there any other potential issues I have not thought of?
Get the pipes changed now instead of spring, if possible, so everything is done in one day. Tell the plumber that you flushed something you should not have so they know everything is blocked and bring the equipment they need to snake any drains. The guts might not have stopped in the pipes you want replaced.
Living without working plumbing sucks and waiting will not lower the price to get it fixed.
Good for you for butchering your own chickens. When I do them I throw the guts in my compost. My cats eat some and then coyotes come through and eat the rest. In a city the garbage would be the place to put them.
The article recommended soybean, canola, and cotton seed meal as garden amendments. Not sure about cotton seed but soymeal and canola meal are very commonly included in poultry feeds as a protein source. In garden soil feather meal would be a slow release source of nitrogen. Feather is mostly composed of keratin, a protein, it could be fed to chickens.
Too much fish meal fed to chickens makes the eggs and meat smell and taste fishy, in limited amounts it is a source of protein. If you do not mind the taste in your eggs it would be worth experimenting with if the price is right. It would be a source of nitrogen and trace minerals for garden soil.
Phosphorus and calcium need to be kept in the proper balance in living animals. Rock phosphate is a source of phosphorus. Gypsum is a source of calcium. Bone meal is a source for both. I don't know how well a chicken can utilize any of these sources. You could try it if you want. Assuming you have layers, watch the shell thickness and texture. If you have problems then you have problems with the calcium levels biologically available to your chickens.
Kelp and azomite would be good to offer for trace minerals.
Chickens will eat what they need as long as it is available. If their manure never leaves your yard than the minerals will slowly be cycled into your soil.
I have been doing my own research on sheep breeds to determine what breeds I would want. I haven't gotten any of my own yet though.
Purebred finns are supposed to average 3 lambs per ewe per lambing. This requires a careful feeding program to meet the needs of the ewes, i.e. they will need grain during late gestation and early lactation to prevent illness. Finnsheep are often cross bred to create an ewe with high prolificacy, but lower maintenance than the purebred finn.
Icelandics are supposed to average twins with every lambing. Iceland does not grow many grains so icelandic sheep should be able to raise lambs on pasture alone and maintain themselves and a pregnanacy with only hay, no grain.
Shetlands are much smaller than the other breeds, and are expected to have singles most of the time. They should be the lowest maintenance.
I would recomend crossbreeding, probabaly start with the icelandics as they are midway between the others in prolificacy and maintenace needs. Decide you want smaller sheep? Get a shetland ram and keep cross bred ewe lambs. Want more lambs? Get a finn ram and keep the crossbred ewe lambs. Want more milk? Try crossing in an east freisian.
I would skip the black welsh mountain simply because the other breeds are all shortailed sheep and the welsh mountain is not.
Note that while all these breeds are wool breeds. None of them produce a commercially valuable fleece. The wool from these breeds is only valuable if you have the skill and equipment to turn raw wool to a finished product.
Monty Loree wrote:Hello,
I live in Regina, SK … Zone 3
We can grow between June 1 and Sept 15.
I have been mulching like crazy. When it rains the mulch holds the moisture nicely, but when it dries out, it dries out the mulch and then it's hard to keep it moist even with tap water.
Last year, I planted into really nice soil.. lots of humus.... and it was so dry nothing really grew up...
I am certain that there are permaculture principles to learn... so I am asking for help on this...
It seems that on May 30, we need to hit the ground running, and have very limited growing time.. if we make mistakes the season is over quickly.
Any help would be appreciated..... thanks,
I live an hour east of Regina. So same weather.
Plant earlier. Some seeds can be planted before the end of april. Carrots, peas, lettuce, and spinach can all be planted into very cold soil and they use the moisture left from snow melt to germinate and start growing.
Corn, potatoes, and beans need warmer soil, in a sunny spot, you can probabaly plant around May 15th, feel the soil with your hand, it should be around 10'C when you plant.
If you grow tomatoes or peppers they need to be started inside and are typically safe to transplant on the May Long weekend. You do need to check the forecast for transplants before planting though.
The season also extends longer into the fall than you think. Many things do die in the first few frosts, but I have picked bouquets of sweet peas for thanksgiving gatherings. At my family farm thanksgiving company also usually assists in digging carrots, potatoes, and beets. The carrots especially do a ton of growing in the fall.
Keep mulching like crazy, this and zero till are the best ways I have found to hold moisture. The last two years have been excessively dry, so my garden has also been very disappointing. Lets hope 2019 has average rainfall.
A few things with watering technique. I use a gravity fed hose, the mulch is mostly not wetted with this. Any kind of sprinkler or mister would not wet soil, only mulch. Also watering in the evening tends to be more effective, I guess the plant has the night to use the water before the sun and the wind start sucking the moisture out of everything.
Matt Shakaleg wrote:Very interesting. Im pretty green regarding ranching let alone the regenerative method but would anyone have ideas on the most efficient way to aquire live stock. I have access to 125 achres in sask canada. Any thoughts are really appreciated
If you just want livestock for improving the land I would suggest custom grazing. Do some advertising and talk to local ranchers. You should be able to get paid about a dollar per day per cow/calf pair to keep them for someone else over the growing season. Early May till mid to late October is when cattle typically are grazing here in Sask.
Fence in as many paddocks as you can, each needs access to water. Shoot for a maximum grazing period of 5 days, and a recovery period between 60-90 days. Recovery period needs to be closer to 90 days in dry conditions, and a shorter recovery when grass growth is fast. On 125 acres you should be able to graze 15-20 cow calf pairs. What soil zone are you? That will make a difference in how many critters you can keep.
Cattle on grass tend to be pretty healthy. You need a way to catch and treat any sick ones, which will be mostly calves. You will probably need a catch pen and a head gate. Or a horse and rope, but that takes skill.
Sheep or goats are another option. The demand is way higher than the supply so the price is pretty good right now. These need much better fences and shelter. You can look in kijiji for ewes/does or search for breeders to start your own flock/herd. The upside is that you just need a catching pen to treat sick animals. No head gate, chute, or roping needed.
It is common practice to burn flax straw where I am. Flax straw takes far longer to break down than any other type of straw. It is not common practice to burn any other type of straw. Most of this burning is done in the winter when there is no risk of it spreading or in the spring before seeding begins.
Gilbert Fritz wrote:Could rye be planted in the Spring, grow till the weather heated up, be grazed or mowed, come back in the Fall, go dormant over Winter, and be harvested the next Summer, thus having grown for 18 months or so?
I know there are special spring planted rye varieties which go to seed that summer. I know standard rye planted in the spring as a cover crop will NOT produce seed that year due to lack of vernalization. But would grazing/ mowing allow it to survive through that first summer?
And if it did, would it have a significantly earlier harvest?
It should work. I know I have seen results from someone who planted winter rye, wheat or triticale 6-8 weeks before frost. It grows to ~6 inches in the fall. Then is grazed before snow falls. It was also grazed in early spring. The seed harvest was reduced with each grazing period, but the value of the forage was greater than the reduction of the value of the seed. This was done in Alberta and Saskatchewan. I will try to find the original data.
snow xu wrote:I like this forum and I can find a lot of interesting things here！
I have raised more than 100,000 broilers, laying hens. How to deal with the problem of manure has been bothering me, the smell of the farm is very big, and the neighbors are very angry about it.
I have thought of a lot of ways, including buying a manure separator, but the effect is not good.
I have consulted a lot of people and have not found a good idea.
Is there any good way?
This spring I accompanied my brother to the city composting facility. At this place city residents could drop off compostables, for free. There was a line up of trucks coming in dropping off mostly tree trimmings. There were people directing where to drop stuff off. There were many massive piles of partially composted material with large equipment being used to turn the piles. There were a few smaller piles of finished compost that were free to take by the truckload for city residents to use in their gardens. The space, people, and equipment used here are all paid for by the city in an effort to reduce land fill needs.
My first thought on seeing this place was that it would be a real chicken paradise. My second thought was that if there were chickens here the droppings would make for higher quality compost. My third thought was that the composting of mostly wood, carbon, would go faster with a source of nitrogen, such as chicken poop. My thoughts were that this place is doing good things, but chickens would make it better.
Is there a town or city that you could partner with to keep compostables out of a landfill? Could you provide space for compost piles to be made. Equipment to turn piles. Possibly more workers to manage a composting facility. A town or city might be able to pay you to take this material. Properly managed compost piles do not smell and could quickly break down poultry droppings.
If you can form this sort of partnership you would be paid to take carbon material, then sell, chicken, eggs and compost. This would be a real win-win if you can find a partner.
If you don't think you can be paid to take compostables you can probably get stuff for free by contacting landscaping companies and advertising at home and gardens stores.