I had a toy and a mini poodle. They weren't too bad about being in the garden but when I put in raised beds 1' high they almost never went in. I had to put up with them in the beds while I was making them, but a couple of 'No's taught them to stay out, so I had success.
Amit Enventres wrote:
Building scientists get all wierd about vapor barriers. In zero energy homes you: yes, want a vapor barrier over everything. In fact, you want it so tight and thorough no air can get through. In traditional housing thought you absolutely do not want a vapor barrier because houses are meant to breathe and such a barrier will trap moisture in your walls causing mildew and mold.
Additional research on green housing evaluating the air barrier affect of multiple coats of paint of various types shows paint (already applied to just about all housing stock) is an air barrier. This seems to blow the whole barrier = mold thing out of the water. This old thinking seems to expect, perhaps no insulation (or limited) and perhaps less mold resistant building materials and perhaps more gaps allowing air to travel through, I'm thinking.
In traditional housing you HAVE to have a vapour barrier, by code. It's on the inside, just inside the wall cover. This prevents moisture from passing through the wall cover and into the wall. If that moisture is able to get into the wall, it will condense at the point where the temperature gradient reaches 100% RH. If that point comes where there's batt or celulose insulation, you'll get condensation in the walls. If you've got closed=cell foam, the moisture can't condensate out. Once you get above about 60% RH, mould will start to grow. You typically need about 85% for Stachybotrys to start to colonise.
I don't understand the last bit about the paint and how the barrier = mould thing is blow out of water. Can you try to explain it a different way? Sorry for being dense.
This thread has helped me a lot, so thanks to everyone. My mom had another 'incident' a few nights ago and I decided enough was enough. I will try to help her but I'm not going to stay here anymore even if she doesn't get help. Just by realising that I can't help her if she doesn't want it and deciding I've done enough, I'm in a much, much better mood.
Mart, I used a programmable light switch, a decora style with a little screen on the switch. That way the water heater came on before I got home and was ready when I did. If you have an electric unit you'd have to use it with a relay.
I came to the same conclusion years ago, but just by feeling it for hot spots and figuring it was pretty well insulated. I never quantified it, and I accept that you lose more heat with a higher delta, but I never bothered with working it out.
Insulation gives diminishing returns and I figured the cost of adding more insulation would take years to pay back.
When I lived in an old farmhouse with an oil water heater I put the control on a programmable timer. I saved money by only firing it up once a day for showering, washing, and dishes.
Hi John. Welcome to Permies and congrats on the land purchase.
I was looking at something similar but, in the end, it seemed like a massive project for very little return. I may be totally wrong but my reading led me to believe that I'd need a very large pond to be able to take fish on a regular basis. In Canada it seems that it's best to have ponds at least 14-15 feet deep for overwintering.
I'd be interested in seeing what it would take to do what you're looking to do, but I think I'd rather use the space and money to raise chickens, quail or rabbits if I want protein production.
If all you want is protein, I think black fly soldier larva would work well, but you've got to eat 'grubs', so it may be a tough sell
I understand why James and Chris have that opinion, but my experience is that it can help if diluted.
I worked for a biologist who had a food and environmental lab. He had been adding hydrogen peroxide to treatment wells, sometimes in combination with nutrients but not always, in order to provide oxygen for the microbes that we used to bio-remediate. It worked very well.
I also did lab tests on several substances to see if they'd kill mould effectively. Below 1-2% (can't remember exactly) the peroxide stimulated mould growth, repeatedly and without fail. I don't think I'd ever use it for that, but I've seen it work first hand.
Marco Banks wrote:It's pretty stunning how much sap an old tree will produce if you tap it. And that's good, because you have to boil it down 98% to get syrup. So 50 gallons of tree sap produces 1 gallon of syrup.
Commercial operations use reverse osmosis filters to take a significant amount of that water out, leaving only the sugars that are then boiled down to the right consistency. It uses so much less fuel.
My silver maples averaged about 1.4-1.5% sugar, which would be good production from a sugar maple in a stand. My sugar maple averaged over 2.8% sugar, so I didn't have to boil off nearly as much water. The tree was over 60 and in a back yard, so it had a huge canopy.
I used to buy it from the Mennonites around us then smartened up and tapped the trees in my backyard. I had a huge, old sugar maple and two silver maples that I tapped. They gave me about 2 gallons of syrup every year. I had my daughter's friends come over, all about 6-7 years old, and had them put a tap in. I boiled off some sap and sent them home with tiny 100mL syrup jugs. We talked about the different sugar contents and I showed them how to use a brix meter. Great learning experience and I always loved it.
Alexis Richard wrote:ACTUALLY, I just found someone near me selling a few under-a-year Blue laced red wyandotte pullets.... I guess I'm fast-tracking my coop!
And miracle of miracles... a feed and seed near me has Ameracauna chicks!!! I'm so excited!
Ideally I don't want to spend that much all the time on pullets, but just to get started that's not too bad I bet!
Good point on the air, Wayne. Volume is much more accurate than height, but mass is probably the best way to quantify it, leaving out biodiversity. I've never quantified it, but I would guess that a compost pile is 50% air and compost may be around 10-20% air; just a WAG. If we weigh it before and after we can get a more accurate picture. Strictly speaking, in a lab environment, I'd probably want to look at the mass from a dry matter standpoint. How much dry matter is in the initial pile and how much is in the finished pile.
I'd get a couple that are laying now or RTL if you can, just to get started. I'd take anything that was laying and cheap, but just 2 (min), maybe 3-4. All you need it two. You can build a very small coop and run for them, feed them any greens, and eat great eggs. That'll get the learning curve started and get you hooked on your own eggs. After that, people will buy your eggs because you believe in them so much. Then you can get whatever breed (breeds, let's be honest) you want and add them to the flock when it suits you. I'll tell you from first-hand experience, it's much nicer getting something in return for your animal care efforts. It can be a long haul incubating or raising chicks until they're productive, but getting just 1 egg a day can put a smile on your face that makes taking care of the other 70 birds.
When I expanded my addiction to quail, I bought 3 laying hens along with 6 dozen fertilized eggs. I got 3 eggs a day, every day, for the 18 days of incubation and the 7ish weeks I waited for the new hens to start laying. Much nicer than when I waited for over a month to get my first egg from my RTL pullets. If you can't find laying hens, though, don't wait. Go ahead and get whatever you can and you could introduce some hens later if you found some.
I was in the EV industry about 15-20 years ago and I tested many different EVs at the time. Most were in the same vein as the vehicles Dave posted (thanks for that, Dave), but they obviously could not meet the safety requirements of standard vehicles.
At the time, several states toyed with the idea of allowing these EVs (most of which topped out around 50-60k) but, in the end, I think only a few made any concession and that was to allow them in gated communities. GEM car was the big winner of that, I think. Now, the EV and hybrid market is geared to your everyday Joe. The cars are designed to perform much like other cars, so the tech is hamstrung by huge weights and unnecessary power.
I think what you may be interested in, besides the vehicles that Dave posted, is something like the Kei cars in Japan. Here in Canada, we can import any vehicle that is over 15 years old, even if it failed to meet our standards. I occasionally see the little 3-wheel pickups. I think they'd be great for deliveries and that's something that I'd look to convert to electric.
A word of caution on 3 wheelers: They can be very prone to tipping. I've almost tipped a few 3-wheelers while doing trials, including the Sparrow, that was very low to the ground. If buying one, I'd make sure they've been designed to be stable. The tall designs with a short wheel-base and single rear wheel concern me.
Hi Jess, that's the worst part about winter chickens for me.
Most of my frozen eggs were cracked from expansion. Any that weren't were just collected before they can freeze. If the crack is dirty, I don't eat them, but if the egg is clean I'll give it a wipe (I don't wipe off the bloem on non-frozen eggs) and stick it (them) in the freezer. I use them for baking or omelettes and I've never been disappointed. I do peel them when frozen and then thaw in a bowl.
I don't worry about anything ferrous, including stainless.
Copper will leach and it's an anti-microbial, so it may harm the soil bacteria, but I'm not sure how much. It's something that we need to varying amounts and some animals need it as a supplement, so it's going to get pissed out all over anyway, so I'm not too worried about it.
I've also seen zinc used as an anti-microbial, but we need some of that too, and some people slather it on their skin, so I'm not too worried.
Aluminum oxidises (rusts) very quickly, so quickly in fact that you need to use AC current when welding it to disturb the oxidation to make a good weld, so no worries there.
Lead is an issue, so keep it in a bucket out of the rain.
Titanium and tungsten aren't an issue as far as I'm aware.
Beyond that, I'm not sure what other metals we might have on hand. Paint on any of them is a wild card.
Jennifer, I think what you're looking for is pretty similar to what most women and men here want or already have. My impression is that a lot of us here have a very similar outlook on most things, which I guess shouldn't surprise me.
My experience is that you can't change people, so you have to find someone who has the big things you look for and the stuff you don't agree on isn't an issue for you. People can change on their own, but it's very rare, but it doesn't mean that, with the right person and the right approach, they won't come around.
Jennifer Richardson wrote:
...pretty sure I’m going to be single forever, but luckily I don’t mind.
I doubt that (that you'll be single, not that you don't mind), but I know it can seem like that at times, especially for introverts. I find that I have to put in the effort to be open to a person to give them a chance. I usually don't bother with much on the first date beyond 'Are there any deal-breakers?' If not, it's worth a second or third date to see if there's any spark. People can be nervous as hell on the first date, so their true personality doesn't come across well.
If you're willing to travel, there seems to be a fair bit of activity in the singles area here. I know I would have been interested in several of the women who've posted there, but I can only work in the US or Mexico as an engineer and, while I could move to Europe, I'd have to jump through some hoops and I may be confined to England or Holland.
Devin Lavign wrote:Timothy, you might want to check out Norwood, I am pretty sure they are a Canadian own company. Why import a Woodmizer, or Alaskian chainsaw mill, when Norwood is locally made.
Yeah, they're only 3-4 hours from me. I did a lot of houses up in their area the last couple of years. I'm almost sure I'll end up out east, NB or NS, so I'll have to see what works when I'm ready for it. If I can find something local or in Maine, that's used I'd probably go for that.
From the south central part of our province to the north, we've mostly got unincorporated townships. That means there's no permitting process except for septic beds and electrical hook-up. You are required to build to the building code, but they will tell you that they would only inspect based on complaint, and that, if they can't see it, they won't inspect it, unless it's an official complaint from the cops, in which case you're already screwed, so having 13 outlets on a circuit isn't going to hurt you any more. I think a lot of the Uppie is like that.
If you don't have access to the above, there are some good points here about trying to make it work and some good points about being cautious.
edit: I do have to say that it's a very good idea to build according to the building code, unless you know what you're doing. There's a pathway of failures as a reason that it exists.
I'm looking at a similar use, Devon. I'm thinking of buying some wooded land and running pigs and chickens through it as I clear it for building materials and firewood. I'd like to start as cheaply as possible and then upgrade when I can. If the activity warrants it, you can always justify upgrading, but if I'm looking at a chainsaw mill or no mill, I'll take the chainsaw.
I would hope I can get a Woodmizer before long, but I also know that business doesn't always develop the way you want and, if another enterprise turns out to be very profitable, I'll be happy to putter along with a chainsaw mill.
William Bronson wrote:
If you could advertise a no kill retirement home, for a fee, or even for a subscription fee(!) you could get even more people to try it!
I love that idea. I've done a variant of that. I've bought spent hens cheaply, though most I've gotten for free from people who didn't want to butcher them but were OK if I did. Feed them well for a few weeks and they'll put on weight because they're not laying and it cleans them out of the other feed and improves the taste. For a couple of dollars max you can get a flavourful carcass around 3-3.5lbs. Stew meat and bone broth. If you get enough, feed 'em to the dogs.
Cristo Balete wrote:
Since I assume this audience here wants to help the planet, wants to keep things organic, safe, and help stop climate change
I completely agree; I want all those things. I don't, however, have much in the way of resources, let alone infinite, so I have to spend my cash very, very frugally. I prefer to scrounge and re-purpose materials, buy used where possible, and buy as cheaply as possible if buying new. If I'm buying new and I can find something anywhere for less than I can get it here, I'll take a look at it. I much prefer to buy from someone local, but many times I can't find what I want in my country at all and sometimes I can find it from someone in the US, but they won't ship to me. If I can find it locally, I'll pay a premium up to about 25-30%, because I'd like them to stay in business, but much more than that and I'll buy it from anywhere if I can be sure that I'll be happy with it and that it'll get to me. The reality is that almost all of the stuff we buy is made in Asia or Indonesia, regardless of where we buy it. I won't buy food of any kind that comes from China, and I prefer not to buy anything from them, but you can find good quality buys there if you put in the effort to research. I don't buy much period, and what I do buy is mostly stuff to grow plants or animals, so I don't have any qualms about buying quality items from overseas if it lets me do that and live as sustainably as possible.
Cristo Balete wrote:, one of the things I see happening on the West Coast is the massive shipments of goods brought on polluting ships, that don't hold up, items that need to be repaired and replaced much more often than quality goods, then go into landfills by the ton, only to off-gas and pollute as they break down under the soil, near our clean water sources.
Yep, there's a lot of that. It's a throw-away society now, but you're painting with a very wide brush. There are a lot of things that come from overseas that are quality items. I think we're also seeing a change in the international marketplace as overseas manufacturers are recognising that there's a market for well-made products and putting more of an emphasis on quality. When I was a kid, the Hondas and Toyotas that were imported were pretty crappy. They rusted out very quickly and were known to be junk cars. Then both companies addressed the issues and offered a longer warranty. People bought into it and now they make some of the best cars. I also drove a Hyundai Pony when I was young. It was such a POS that I swore I'd never buy one. Years later, they'd done the same thing as the Japanese mfgs and are much better cars. I even owned one and regretted it when it was hit.
Cristo Balete wrote:This article is about how the Mega ships/container ships are polluting the oceans, while leading us to believe that buying cheap quality items is good for us.
I think that buying cheap quality goods can be good for us in the right circumstances, but I understand what you're trying to say about rampant consumerism. What I don't understand is who, exactly, is "leading us to believe that buying cheap quality items is good for us?" I think we're doing that to ourselves, speaking to the whole, but I doubt many people here are overly consumerist.
I think that all we need to do is look for a comma. Instead of cheap quality tools, buy cheap, quality tools.
Yep. This is a situation where you can pick beauty over production and not sacrifice much. Most of the work is in caring for them, so I don't care if I get 1 less egg a week from a breed if I think they're beautiful. No one ever raises cornish x for their beauty and grace. I'll raise them for meat to sell because they're hands down the best for that, but for eggs you can just pick whatever tickles your fancy.
If you plan to sell anything you will have much more success if you're passionate about it. If you love the breeds you have, it will come across. You can also spread the disease by converting your customers to chicken keepers. You can then sell them coops and birds and it's a lot easier to sell cute animals. Then you have someone to feed your girls when you go away.
It depends, but likely not. If it's not completely composted, it will compost further, but it won't kick-start your pile.
The chicken manure is the right thing for getting it going, but you'll need it freshish. Straight chicken manure can be dissolved in water and then sprayed on the pile as you go to get it the nitrogen it needs, or you can add chicken litter with poop and straw or shavings. Build it at least a cubic yard and it'll heat up to around 170.
I've also used deep litter (litter that's been in the coop for a year) to put a 4-6" base in raised beds with soil on top. I started the beds in March and they composted in place. I put down weeper hose and mulch and I didn't fertilize all season except for dumping some rabbit poop on when I didn't have a spot for it. Best garden ever.
Mike Jay wrote:I get farmyard mutts from a homesteader nearby that does some deliberate breeding for a cold hardy dual purpose chicken. I value their ability to not die when it's -30F, to forage all summer and to have a few broody hens in every flock. They pay for themselves with egg sales and I like their multicolor eggs.
If you're having trouble picking a variety, get several and let them mix...
Not sure what you're market is like, but coloured eggs are great sellers. The Chanteclers I had laid pink eggs, the Auracaunas laid blue, I got green from the Easter eggers, an dark brown from the rest. Kids especially loved the coloured eggs, but adults did too. When I was giving my eggs to the neighbours, one of them told me that there was a new report on a lady in town selling blue and green eggs for $20/doz. Yep, $20/doz. We all know that's nuckin' futz, but people paid it. My neighbours were even happier with me after that.
If you can get $.50-1.00 more a dozen, or even the same price as others but you always sell yours, getting some coloured egg layers will definitely pay off. As a bonus, I really love the look of the Auracaunas. Plus, rainbow dozens look cool.
Cristo Balete wrote:One more thing about always ordering equipment/parts over the internet from foreign countries....they get shipped to the US in ships that use the worst possible diesel fuel on the planet. It pollutes the most, it floats on top of the water as it is used. And we get a belt, a chain, whatever part off Amazon or some site, one small thing adds to the terrible pollution. Then it gets delivered by a truck run on diesel fuel. Neighborhoods these days have diesel trucks coming through, to each house, day after day after day. How can that be good for the air where the kids play and we have windows open? We create the market for products that have a downside.
What's the point of driving an electric vehicle when we create a demand for vehicles using diesel to jump in use to the point that it starts affecting the planet we live on?
First of all, much (most?) of the equipment and parts we use isn't made in the US, so you don't have a choice if you want/need it. Ships use the worst possible 'diese'l on the planet because it isn't useful for most other applications. I've never heard ship fuel referred to as diesel, only fuel oil or heavy fuel oil. It's so viscous that it has to be heated to flow. I would also expect that an ocean freighter, for all the fuel it uses, is one of the most fuel efficient ways to move goods.
I would say that most products have a downside, but I think that the way I use the products more than makes up for the cost to the environment in the medium term, let alone the long term. If I'm faced with buying a 3/4" solenoid valve here for $75 or one from China for $25 with shipping, I feel that the environment can take that $50 hit so that I can set up an automatic watering system for my veggie garden that precludes me buying veggies that are trucked in and grown using fuel. I'll make up for it pretty soon. Add to that the fact that the $75 solenoid comes from China anyway and it's not even a question.
Being able to buy less expensive items from China allows a lot of us to do what we do. I'd love it if everything I need could be bought in my country for the same price, but many things you can't even get here.
I'm also not sure what the point of driving an electric vehicle is. It costs more energy to produce than a diesel vehicle and I'm not convinced that you can make up for that over the life of the vehicle.
Alexis Richard wrote:
I was looking into getting a small trailer for my car but my friends keep saying I'll fry the transmission. My listed tow capacity is 1000 lbs, but that's still their opinion. What's yours?
Oh it'd pay for itself fairly quickly in that way to be honest. There was so much lumber on the side of the road the other day.... I almost cried because I couldn't take it hahah.
TSC sells a folding trailer that weighs 260lbs, leaving 740lbs for cargo, though the trailer is rated for twice that. If you always kept the load to under 800lbs, I think you'd be just fine, and that can be a lot of cargo. If you need to move more than that, you can make more trips or rent a truck, but free stuff at the side of the road is usually less than 800 lbs. To me, the ease of loading and unloading, plus the capacity for large items makes it worth while, even if you are hard on the tranny, which you shouldn't be if you're within the limits. You are going to want to make sure your breaks are up to stopping the additional load.
You may also be able to get a larger tranny cooler installed. Most towing packages offer larger tranny and engine coolers, but they can be added later. If it were me, I'd just get a light (250-400lb) trailer and live with it.
I've got a Honda CRV, with a rated towing cap of 1500lbs. I did some digging and the European models are rated at 1500 KGs, or 2.2 times more that the North American model. Turns out that Honda de-rates the cap for the NA market due to legal claims; if they say 1500 lbs and you go over that, you've got no case. I've trailered about 4000lbs with the CRV, though only twice and only because I had to, but I didn't have any issues. The way you drive is also a big factor with a trailer.
So, I'd say get a trailer and pull manageable loads. If you find it isn't working, sell the car and buy something else, preferably a Japanese vehicle, but you'll be able to get started and, if you do have to do repairs, you're still going to be ahead with all the stuff you can get with a trailer.
Just FYI, you can fit 3 telephone poles into a CRV if you cut them up a bit and take out the back seats. You could probably get 4 in if you cut them into small chunks. In a lot of ways I liked my minivan better than my pickup. If you can get it into the van, it's covered and better for moving fragile things.
I originally bought Chanteclers as they're the only Canadian breed, were bred for our winters, are dual purpose(ish), and because there aren't a lot of them. They have a pea comb, so they aren't as prone to frostbite, which is important to me as I didn't heat the coop. They are supposed to lay through the winter with no extra light, but I found I had to supplement the lighting, which wasn't a huge surprise as 9 hours of daylight just doesn't cut it for any breed, I think. Anyway, I was all set with Chanteclers from two different breeders so that I had different genetics and all my chickens were bred for our winters.
Then I ended up with a bunch more chickens of various breeds. Some because my daughter wanted them, some Auracaunas because I wanted blue eggs, and some because I got them free/cheap. In the end, I found very little discernible difference between any of the heritage breeds. They all laid the same, dressed out similarly (a big disappointment with the dual-purpose Chants) and the ones with huge combs only got a little frostbite, even down to -40 on any scale.
So, the next year (this is where you get in trouble) I bought more chickens. I'm half dutch, so I got Welsummers and Barnevelders, some Easter eggers, and a couple more breeds that I can't remember. Many of the breeds I got were supposed to lay between 180-200 eggs a year. I got 5 eggs a week from all my chickens, without fail, for 3 years, letting them molt twice in the fall, which is 260 eggs a year. I fed them well, let them free-range until I had fattened up the local coyote, hawk and bald eagle population, then I gave them a big run instead.
I also used my chickens. I made them prep new garden beds by fencing in small sections for a couple of days, then moving them. They pretty much destroyed any offal I had from butchering rabbits or quail, as well. Some of them turned out to be pretty good mousers, too, so that's great. I did sell the eggs for a while, but ended up giving them away to my neighbours when I moved downtown to a semi-detached. Chickens were illegal in the city ($5K fine), so I bribed the neighbours with eggs so I could have my gardens, chickens, rabbits and quail.
So, in the end, I found that there wasn't a whole lot of difference between heritage breeds, from a production standpoint. They all laid 5 eggs a week like clockwork and dressed out between 2-3/4lb to3-3/4lbs, not including neck or giblets. The dual-purpose was at the high end of that, on average, but I never got close to the 10 and 8 lbs for roos and hens (liveweight). I suspect that some of this was due to genetics, and some due to free ranging. They ran around like idiots most of the time, burning off calories, so they may have kept more weight on if confined to a run.
My takeaways on getting chickens:
2. If you want meat birds, get cornish X or a heritage-based meat bird that won't grow as quickly but is easier to keep.
3. If you want to go into egg production, get egg specific breeds.
4. If top production isn't your goal and you want them to forage, just about any heritage breed will be fine.
5. Get breeds that appeal to you, for looks, behaviour, or place of origin.
6. If you want friendly chickens, Orps or Brahamas are nice and there are other breeds just as friendly. Some breeds like to be petted.
7. This should be first, but make sure you have EVERYTHING sorted out before they arrive.
8. Ready to lay hens aren't. Maybe it's because people think they start laying at 18 weeks, but I've found my heritage breeds took 24-26 weeks. I've also been sold 8 week hens as 'RTL', but I knew they weren't even close.
Hi Devin, thanks for the post. It seems that most of the responses are people saying stick to the name brands, which is a bit of a surprise to me.
I also like the name brands but I'm not a fanboy of any of them. I know that they are good quality, but I've also found good quality tools in other brands. Like you, I've usually found the name brands give the best return but that's not always the case.
I used to work with a bunch of maintenance guys who all bought Snap-On tools. Every week the Snap-On guy would come and the guys would get giddy, then go in and not only spend their tool allowance, but often a large part of their paycheck. One of the guys had a wife who worked at Canadian Tire. He bought all of his tools there because they had a lifetime warranty, were much cheaper yet similar quality to the Snap-On, went on sale often, and he also had 10% off because of his wife. I worked there for a couple of years and there was no discernible difference between the two brands, except that the Snap-On tools were 3-4 times more than the CT brand. To top it off, one of the guys had a Snap-On socket wrench break. When he took it to Snap-On, they told him that the tool was 25 years old and that the lifetime for a socket wrench was 20 years, so he was out of luck. He switched to Canadian Tire after that!
Like you, I know it's usually best to buy the best tools, but I don't become blind to cost effectiveness. I've bought many "off-brand" tools in my life. Some are every bit as good as the name brand tools, and some are definitely inferior, but were much more cost effective. I've bought some really cheap, kinda crappy tools over the years because I was only going to use them once or twice and they were cheaper than used. Often, with these, I've had to spend up to an hour going over them to make sure everything is tight and aligned, but they can do the job. I once bought a tile saw, new, for $20 on sale at a local surplus store (my favourite store ever!). I knew it was crappy, but I only had a bathroom and hearth to tile. That was over 15 years ago and I've done several more tiling jobs with it and still use it in combination with my other tile saw that I got for bigger jobs. I actually think I like the $20 one better.
I'm going to be getting a chainsaw soon and I've been worried about the price. I'm going to give these a shot, when I get there, because I'll be stretching my money as much as possible on start-up. If I got a season out of one, I'd be happy because it will have allowed me to get through a year, allow me to save for a better one, and give me time to look for used. If it's still working fine, I'll probably buy another as a spare.
I think that these could be great for casual users or to get started on a budget. If the reviews are accurate, and there's no question to me that the reviewer is much, much more experienced with chainsaws, these saws will probably hold up just fine for years.
I've used an Echo chainsaw (an off-brand here in Canada) and it was crap, total crap. We used it for two days before buying a Stihl again, so I understand why some people won't give other brands a chance, but I also burnt out TWO Milwaukee 10" circular saws in very short order. I'm usually happy with their tools, but they shit the bed with that one. It should have been 240V instead of 120V@15A, or make it a 120V@20A tool instead. So, if name brands can have lemons, off brands can have diamonds, especially if they rip off the design
Hi Alexis. The bad news is you're probably crazy, but the good news is that it's the best kind of crazy.
My advice to anyone is to try to make a go at whatever they love to do, so it's great to see that you're doing that. Most people you talk to about it will think you're nuts. One of the things I really hate about people is how many (most?) of them try hard to discourage anyone doing what makes them happy. I don't even talk to my family about what I do or want from life. Just ignore it and do your thing.
I'd suggest looking for a small, possibly foldable, trailer for your car. Buy used (buy everything used) and get some help checking them out if you need to. You can probably pick up a trailer for a few hundred dollars and it will make it much easier to get materials home. You can probably pay for the trailer very quickly by picking up free stuff that you couldn't have taken advantage of before.
Best of luck with everything. I'll make sure to check out your blog.
Mike Jay wrote:Thanks Timothy, great information! Now, what if the dump site is just barely above the water line and on the edge of a boggy/swampy area? I can't really dig down before it gets too sloppy to dig. The water is likely leaching away stuff (gentle downstream direction is a lake). I guess I should just call a lab and see what they recommend. It's one of the few wet and clayey spots with nearly full sun on my property so it would be a great spot for some elderberries, currants and other water lovers. If the water is safe.....
That's beyond my competency, sorry. I sure like Marco's suggestions and I'm going to look up Rufus Chaney myself. I would guess that most farms have had several types of pollutants over the years and I think bio-remediation is a great strategy for dealing with it.
Tyler Ludens wrote:It's a tough situation for sure. My dad has Alzheimer's and I'm his primary caregiver. Fortunately he has a kind and cheerful personality.
One important thing I have learned is that one can't expect a person with Alzheimer's to learn anything. No matter how trivial it is, they just are not able to learn to change their behavior at this point in their lives.
The bane of my father's existence right now is his walker. He's had it for over a year now but he didn't use it when he was more with it. Now, it's like a piece of alien technology. He knows he should use it, all the staff and the residents remind him to, but he can't figure the damned thing out. He can turn around and sit on it, but when he gets up he'll try to drag it behind him. If it's in front of him he can't figure out where to put his hands, so you have to place them for him. Once he's going with it, he's good. As soon as he enters his room, though, it literally ceases to exist for him. He takes his hands off and tries to walk through it. Every. Single. Time.