Here is my sawbuck. Not old fashioned but it works for me. Scavenged, angled roughly 1x4 aluminum tubing, 4 foot length the channels form a v to hold my logs. Have a 2x8 wood top plate to convert to a sawhorse. It holds pipe too and have used it as a redundant ground when welding tube.
Placing the IBC totes In the educational greehouse there will be four rows of beds with totes. To Keep track of watering needs/use for different types of bed construction. A hugel bed, a self watering bed, a contained hugel bed (a hugel bed in a lined pit experiment), and a conventional bed. There are conventional perimeter beds. We'll pull all the bunch grass in the green house and use it as the local landscapers do for walkway perimeters. The grand plan is to develop some figures for water usage and production results.
I'm putting in some wheelchair accessible planting beds at a park greenhouse, rectangular bed that allow wheelchairs to slide underneath the bed. But now I have seen this "lazy susan" design and think it has some possibilities. This would reduce the size of site prep by only requiring a small footprint for the wheelchair and not having to create access all the way around the bed.
How about using panel clamps from one hoop stay to another and using that framework to make your pipe jack. Basically, it would create two parallel purlins and you would just use a small portion of the now created frame. Wiggle wire on the new purlins or around the pipe jack framed portion would prevent sags.
My brother and I went fishing the other day at a local lake. We rented a boat and were killing it one fish after another. My brother takes a piece of chalk out of his pocket and puts a big x on the bottom of the boat. I asked him what he was doing. He said, "I'm marking this spot so we can come back". I replied" What?, how do you know we're going to get the same boat?"
I've never used sand so I can't say that that is the problem. I just lay the weed barrier on topand tucked it between my coils of convoluted tubing. I just used the same planting mix on top of the tubing.
The sail maker sewing palm idea might be better than something stuck on the end of my thumb. Could still use the thumb, stays attached to the hand so you wouldn't have to fumble for it and you wouldn't drop it in a precarious stretch, Good idea. I could replace the needle pushing pad with an HDMW forked tongue.
Just thinking out loud here. Rather than go to the effort of installing the pipe in the bed, why not redirect the overflow. Wouldn't soluble nutrients exchange with overflow water? Would the interface of pipe and water retaining membrane be a weak point for leaks in the system?
One of the problems with trapping is that it can be indiscriminate. Not a problem if it is a survival issue. However, the use of leg stops, and intelligent placement is prudent. I don't think I'd be setting snares in a suburban area. I have destroyed illegal bear snares in the woods around here. Snares are not the most humane or legal way of trapping in some instances.
Mechanic work in the dirt let alone mud is never any fun. The luxury of a lift or pit to comfortably work under a car makes it so much easier. My European mechanic friends say with your description sounds like a linkage issue, so that is where they would start. Getting the car into a known gear and observing the play, slack, movement of the linkage. I hope it is an easy affordable fix.
It's hard to pinpoint just where the linkage play is coming from without actually having hands on. The Saab transmission itself is pretty robust. From your description I'm still leaning towards the linkage. The many Youtube videos show how to set the transmission into a known gear with the use of a lock pin. Once you get to that point fiddle farting about you might be able to see where there is excessive play and pinpoint the linkage/bushing in question. Regardless you will at some point have to set the transmission into a known gear. If it were my Saab(sob) I would begin there, and wiggle things about.