Everything worked when I purchased the hugul micro doc. Would suggest indicating that upon purchase you will receive an email with more info and a download link. I hadn't realised that I should be looking for an email that I could download the video from. I had actually been wondering if there was a way for me to download the video that was made available to me in the forum that had the purchase link.
i payed through paypal with no issues. then i had to scroll down and found that the video was now available. will this video be available for me to view indefinatly or is there a way i can download it now to watch later? i began to watch it just to make sure that it does work and it does but i dont have time to watch the whole thing right now.
And another hopefully better one. I have played around a bit with the configuration and this seems to work the best. It works really well surprisingly though I'm not entirely sure why. I thought I would have a dueling chimney problem but it doesn't even though I'm beyond the 1/3 length of the heat riser length by four inches at least
so honored to speak to you. thank you for sharing so much of your experience publicly. if it wasnt for your forum and ernie and erica"s book i wouldnt have been able to build this heater. i checked out the detection device and it says it is a carbon monoxide alarm. sorry for the confusion and thank you for your time.
ok so i have an update and a question. the heater has been working pretty awesome at heating the house and i still havent even built the mass. so that being said i am very happy with it. we did have some smoke back trouble after extending the pipe. i found that extending the feed by one layer of bricks and then capping the top off with two bricks kinda acting like a cover and then leaving the brick out in the front of the feed as the air intake solved this for the most part except when we would load too much fuel in the feed it would block the burn tunnel and we would get smoke back. i also found a couple places where the pipes were pitched backwards or near level and i adjusted that yesterday so that there is more of a rise toward termination. seems to be working better just from that small change. i still will keep the "cap" on at night just to be sure there is no potential smoke back as it has been so effective at reducing that issue. i know this isnt ideal and wouldnt recommend to anyone that they build a rmh with smoke back without knowing the danger and understanding the risk.
whenever there was smoke back it is usually due to human error but the room for error is much greater because of this design. i think the main issue is i pushed the limits on how long the exhaust should be. i could easily shorten it but am curious as to whether just sealing the core with cobbish (right now the core is still basically just fire brick and the clay slip has broken so the most of the joints are taking in air) and adding the mass will help with the issue of smoke back. Does anyone else think it will help? i wonder if the mass will actually have a negative effect and it get worse. anyways if it does i will just have to shorten it (dont really want to because i want maximum heat exchange).
my question is i have yet to tape all the joints mainly because when the exhaust was shorter i didnt think it was necessary because the joints would be air intakes(which isnt ideal but not hazardous to health) rather than places i would be concerned for air leaking out. i could even take a cleanout cap off and watch the air rush past the opening though it would cause smoke back at the feed. when i extended the exhaust i did become more concerned about this issue of potential leakage from the seams but am wondering if that is a real concern now.
i wanted to know if it was a real problem so i kept most of the joists untaped and have kept a co2 detector in different places around the heater and the detecter has never detected a single ppm. is there something i am missing? have never seen any smoke come out of these opening either. is there other gasses that people are concerned about and thats why they tape all the seems? i guess im just unsure as to why people tape all the seems when i cant find any evidence of it being a problem with my system that isnt really that wooshy.
this documentary was very good. we just finished watching it with the kids for homeschool and i had chills quite a few times. it doesn't teach you anything about permaculture but I felt it was a good look into how we humans have messed up our environment and how we need to be more considerate of how we live which made me keep thinking about permaculture being the solution. overall i thought it was good history lesson on the use of pesticides and chemicals. does anyone else have any other good documentaries in mind that would be educational for the kiddos
there is one down fall to this design that stands out to me right off the bat is that to feed the heater you will have to lean over the mass to see in side which i really do not like but i think i will figure something out when it comes time
ok so its time for an update. im pretty excited to share this!! the exhaust of my rocket heater (no mass yet lol still working on that) has been extended from six feet to 30 feet not counting the turns theoretical length. im pushing the limits when you add the turns but the way it is designed i believe increases my limits a bit and am curious to hear what other peoples thoughts are on it. so i have counted three to five pumps total throughout the system depending on whether you count where it wraps the fire box as one big one or one for each side of the fire box. plus there is another extra one at the end of the exhaust because it is almost on top of the exhaust coming right out of the manifold and then as usual there is the thermal siphon in the barrel. which when explaining it a friend suggested that the thermal syphon was two pumps in one which i though was a good point but i still only count it as one.
please feel free to make recommendations and share your thoughts enjoy
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Unfortunately there is only so much that can be done with inspectors and bureaucracy when it comes to damaged infrastructure like septic. The biggest issue here, from the inspector's point of view is health. You have to be able to convince him that a different option might be even healthier than the previous system. That said, you may not be able to convince the inspector in this regard, without really hard evidence. He might be the sort of inspector that will completely refuse to look at alternative ideas. So there's that; which right off the start is a pretty big potential hurdle. You could try to explain what you envision, but without some kind of credentials or... major outlined plan, the inspector would definitely laugh at you.
Other than the septic issue, and the in-bad-shape house, and the potential of roundup poisoning your likely GMO corn field, your canvas seems fine. If you are within a couple hours of a city where you can gain potential future students easily enough, then you are even better off. Are there no other out buildings?
Considering your stated issues:
A) Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. I can't say that it will be worth it, but it might be. It is actually a better teaching tool to start with crappy infrastructure and make it bountiful than to start with the ideal and have it easy. Be sure to take lots of pictures and notes so that you have this tool available. These places deserve to be examples of potential rehabilitation.
I'm assuming that since you have a septic system and a house that there is water on site. How much can you use?-more on that in the following points.
1.) Primary Consideration: Research a composting toilet system. Buy the humanure handbook. Consider a small outbuilding sealed composting toilet system outside your barn, sharing a wall... accessed by stairs both from the loft and the ground floor, and pray that you can convince the building inspector of it's safety. Lend him the book. Get an understanding of greywater (this is non-septic water from sinks, laundry, shower, bath), and consider a system that works for your location.
2.) Is the barn in good shape at least? Could you portion off part of it in the spring, dismantle the house, and rebuild it more efficiently inside, maybe, the loft of the barn?
3.) Buy a large sack of field peas (organic is best, but whatever you can afford...) to plant early in the season in the corn field to get microbial nutrients/nitrogen back in the system. Irrigate if possible to get the peas established. Buy a scythe, scythe stone, and perhaps the scythe book and practice proper scythe technique on spare time.
4.)Consider a field mix that is rich in diversity, including nitrogen fixers like clovers and vetch and broadleaf plants like chicory, dandelion, annuals like barley and oats, and annual greens like mustard and radish, and herbs like dill, oregano, and cilantro. When the peas are starting to flower, broadcast this mix in the living system, and then scythe the peas down. Irrigate if you can. After this you might not need to irrigate nearly as much.
5.)Plant a garden between the barn and your house, if that works with solar aspect, if not consider the best solar aspect and make a garden (small enough to be manageable), and focus attention on paths/garden beds that span the area for patterns of movement... example: I'm going to the barn to bring this, or get that and there is an unwanted weed, I'll pull it, and figure out what it is, and if I can eat it later. I'm on my way to the field, and I see that this bed needs more mulch (note to self).
6.)Harvest the rain off your barn.
That's all I got so far.
Thank you for you advice I think we are in a good location for students. we are 20 inutes from three decent size towns and then cincinatti and columbus are an hour away which are really big cities. There are only two buildings on the property right now and we are in the process of moving our other manufactured home onto the back lot by the pole barn. was thinking of connecting the pole barn to the manufactured home and making half of the pole barn into living space. There is a shed we will be moving along with the MHome that is about 13ft by 8ft. The Mhome is 66x14 ft.
I felt like we got a pretty good deal on the land but i dont know from a permaculture point of view since i am so new to it. The section with the barn on it was 22k and the portion with the house was 25k. There is five acres all together.
There are actually two wells and two septic tanks on the site since there used to be another home back by the pole barn. The leach lines from the septic system has been on my mind alot because they take up a large portion of the property. is it unwise to plant things over top of these lines? I would thing it would be good fertilizer but there is gravel under the lines and I don't know for sure how deep they are. also was thinking it might be bad for the plants since the humanure hasn't went through much of a composting stage. I dont know how much water i can use from the wells but the neighbor says he has never had his go dry and he uses it to water his garden.
The pole barn is in decent shape structurally but there is no loft. the roof is supported by a truss system and the the bottom of the trusses are about ten feet from the ground. but we could use the other home to live in though we were thinking of renting it out to get some extra income while working on this place.
I know from the over head picture the corn field looks bare but that is an old pic. The field is covered in lush weeds which i think alot is clover. Thats good right? Should i Still spread pea seeds and then do the field mix thing? Is the field mix for food harvest or does it serve another purpose?
I like that idea about having the garden btween the barn and the house. we travel there alot lol. So it would be really cool to walk through a garden all the way there.
Eddie Conna wrote:I use regular laundry soap. Plants don't seem to mind. From what i've read, the old soaps that were damaging to the environment aren't made that way anymore, but i'm not entirely sure of that.
The drain line is similar to that of a septic leech line. Just dug a 2 foot deep trench, filled it 1' with gravel, put in a perforated pipe, and then covered it with dirt. Been doing fine for years. I did the same thing in a previous house I owned, and decades later, the system is still working fine.
O wow that seems so simple. I will probably be able to put that in next year. What area do you live in? What is your soil like if you dont mind me asking
As for "grey water recycling". When I redid a house I had, I put all the drain lines EXCEPT the kitchen sink and toilet into a grey water system.... which was basically a perforated pipe run along a line of hedges about 1' underground. Those hedges immediately went nuts, and are huge now, because they get all the sink, shower, and clothes washing water. But it was easy to do because I had a raised foundation and could climb under the house and easily access those pipes.
What do you use for washing your clothes? I imagine it is something other than normal laundry soap. We have tried home made laundry soap but my wife says it just doest get the clothes as clean as she would like. If i have the laundry water hooked to a grey water system i dont want to put chemicals into my plants root system. What would you suggest to use for laundry soap? Also i cant spend the extra money on the seventh generation stuff or any other of the fancy stuff lol
Congrats on the purchase. Don't be so quick to think you need to bail or settle. You don't have to do everything at once, take your time.
Regarding the distribution box. A distro box in a septic system isn't all that complex. It's merely a box where on line comes in, (from the septic tank) and multiple lines go OUT, (to the leech field) to "distribute" the waste water. The distro box should be level, so water flows evenly into each leech line.
If it's NOT level, water will flow more into one line or another. Not really a big deal.
Septic systems are expensive because most people don't want to deal with them... because they are "icky"... so plumbers and septic companies can charge a fortune for what an average homeowner with basic skills and knowledge can do.
Find a company that sells septic components, get a new box, and dig out the old one. put the new one in, and your distro box problem is solved.
If there's an issue with the leech lines, those can be replaced easily as well. A leech line is built by digging a trench several feet deep. put in 2 feet of 3/4' gravel, then a perforated pipe with the holes facing down. The leech lines should have a very slight slope to them, about 1/4" per foot or so. That way water flows downhill. Add another 6 inches of gravel over the pipe, then cover with dirt.
Leech lines and septic systems should be placed where vehicles will NOT be driving over them, as the weight of vehicles over time and compact the soil, and crush the system. It's possible your box got wrecked when someone drove something over it.
I'm confused how an official would know the leech lines are "likely to fail" since there is no easy way to inspect them. (unless of course the field has bene dug up) That seems like someone basically talking out their arse, as many officials like to do. The ONLY way to know if a leech line is failing is if the following is happening:
1) The system is backing up into the house AFTER having been pumped... meaning water is NOT going INTO the leech system, (which could happen with a bad bistro box.)
2) Water is rising to the surface in the leech system area. If that's the case, then the leech field is either plugged, OR over saturated. In that case, it's POSSIBLE the ground has been "oversaturated" and a new leech field is needed. Not a big deal if you have 5 acres of flat land, plenty of room for a field.
If water is rising to the surface near the septic TANK, then water isn't getting into the leech field.
Of course leech lines should be far away from lakes, rivers, water sources, wells, etc, to avoid contamination, and they should be placed in soil that will allow the water to soak in. Areas with lots of rock and clay aren't great, but can work depending on how porous they are. A soils test would determine the suitability for such a system. If you know the general soil makeup in your area, that may not even be required or necessary.
I've built septic systems for a few thousand dollars where septic companies wanted TENS of thousands. Spend some time on google, look up the basics of a septic system, and you will see how simple and easy there are.
Of course if you're going to go to a composting toilet system, that's all unnecessary. HOWEVER, if a working septic system is required by officials, you can always fix your system easily, then bootleg a composting system in. Many people will do that.
Feel free to ask specific questions about the septic system if you wish. But from what I've read based on what you wrote, your "problem" isn't that big of one... if you're a little bit handy.
Here are my questions for you:
1) how does the official know your bistro box is failing/broken?
2) what makes them think the leech field/system is about to fail?
3) any info you can share specifically about the system that you know would be helpful in diagnosing your issues.
just want to quickly say you guys are awesome and thank you so much for the quick responses. I had two more messages before i finished replying to the first one and didn't even know it. I am glad to be told to relax as i have felt a bit overwhelmed with all that needs to be done. I really want to learn all i can to make this place sustainable in the future but there is so much to consider. I feel pretty confident about replacing the Dbox thanks to your reassurance and will be making calls to find one and replace tomorrow. i thought it seemed simple but when officials get involved i get a lil nervous doing things myself. i thought about pouring concrete into a form to make one myself. Do you think that the inspector would be ok with that?
We got a letter in the mail and in the notes from when it was installed the inspector noted that half way through the installation the homeowner who was installing the system himself got injured. They didn't finish the project until the next spring and the septic tank floated out of its hole in the winter. it also said something about tieing lines together in an attempt to salvage system. due to these factors the inspector at the time warned the homeowner that there was a high likely hood of failure of the system in the future.
the inspector looked into the dbox during his inspection and found that it was broken is how he knew it was broken. he said it looked like someone had ran over it. the previos homeowner also put a pool over top of the leech field and the inspector said that i have to remove the pool. a small part of the field goes under our driveway
Congratulations on your land purchase, and on embracing permaculture! You're in good company here.
I think that the community here on Permies.com will be happy to help you with your projects, but we will need some information from you.
a) Where do you live?
b) What is your climate like?
c) What is your average rainfall?
d) Do you have an overview map of your land? A Google image works well.
e) Are there any trees or other native plants on the land?
f) What are your goals? Do you envision being self-sufficient in food? Food forest? Ponds?
g) Do you want to raise animals? What kind?
h) Are there any bodies of water near you? Rivers, streams, lakes?
i) Do you have neighbors who farm? What are they growing?
Any other information you have about your property, and your future goals will help us to offer information that might be helpful to you.
I can commiserate with your septic/plumbing problems - we are going through the same thing. There are some really good threads about grey water and black water systems. This my favorite - packed with great info - Greywater & blackwater systems These are alternative systems, so they might not be allowed where you live. It's worth looking into though.
Again, if you supply us with more info, we can start sharing some ideas with you about how you might proceed.
Wonderful!! I'm so happy to have a response already and i am happy to hear i am in good hands Ok so i will just go down the list to answer your questions and if there are details i am leaving out or am not giving a very good answer please let me know and i will try my best to correct.
A) I live outside of Leesburg Ohio 45135
B) I am on the edge of zone 5 and 4. I believe it would be considered a cold climate. we have hot summers but rarely hitting 100 farenhieght like maybe a few days a year. winters get below zero sometimes but i think the average is like 20 degrees
C) average annual rainfall of 39.23 inches, I'll see if I can attach a graph of monthly averages IECC moisture regime is A (whatever that means)
D)I attached a screen shot from the county auditors page and both parcels are mine. At the end of the drive way is the pole barn 24x48 ft. Next to the loop in the driveway is our house 1700 sq feet. The house is a double wide. there are two wells and two septic systems on our land. if needed i can draw up something to show where those are located. the pond by the driveway is dry now and has been since we first looked at the property in august.
E) There are some very small evergreens randomly planted near the house. there is a thin tree line at the very back of the property with some large mature trees. The black locust is the only one i knew for sure what it was because of the knarly thorns sticking out of it. the front around our house is all grass except for the evergreens. Back by the pole barn is a mix of different weeds. There is alot of clover which makes me happy.
F) My vision is a system that will provide an abundance of food for my family and friends and neighbors. Maybe even a community garden of sorts but instead it would be like a food forest possibly. I would like to have an out reach to help people and show case permaculture at the same time. A pond is a possibility but would be alot of work but would be willing to do the work if it is necessary though.
G) We love animals but am back and forth because of the being tied down are still undecided. Will almost definitely get chickens as they are not as big of a commitment. What chickens are best for egg laying without being lazy? Have some experience with chickens but not in a permaculture design. If we got anything else it would be a milk cow and maybe a pig or two every year
H) No substantial bodies of water within a mile
I) The farm land around me is corn and soy bean which we are surrounded by on almost three sides. our neighbors had small gardens with the normal veggies
PLease let me know of anything thing else that can be helpful that i have left out and thank you for the info about grey water and septic systyems
We just bought 5 acres in southern Ohio. It has a 1700 square foot double wide on it with 24ft. by 48ft. pole barn. We bought it a couple months ago before i got hooked on Permaculture. I am very new to Permaculture and lack understanding in many ways. What i have learned so far suggests to me that this is the way the world ought to be thinking and i want to be an example for those in my area. I dream of this land we bought becoming a tool for the expansion of Permaculture. The thing I am concerned about is whether or not it is a good piece of canvas. It used to be a corn field. It is very flat. One of my questions is how hard would it be too make it productive. Would it be better to sell this and look for a different layout. I know any place can be transformed but I am wondering the amount of work it would take.
I have 5 kids and the house on this land is in great need of attention. I have trouble finding the time to watch all the videos and research materials that i need to to be able to design this property correctly and effectively. I really have just newly came onto the Permaculture scene and need as much dense information as i can possibly get as time is limited. I want to teach my kids also as we home school and I believe this would be awesome for them. My oldest son is very into gardening and I believe he has the makes to be a great inventor.
I have even considered paying someone to come out and design or consult, but resources are indeed limited. It was hard to spend the money on the course but I feel like it is worth the investment though I am worried I dont have the time to make the most out of the resources that will be available during the PDC. I have went to part time to be able to spend more time with the family and focus on more important things (relationships). The system of consumerism grieves me and am looking to break free. It has been my heart for a long time to have a homestead and live off of our own land.
I dont know what options I have and am basically reaching out to let anyone know who might be interested that I have a basically blank slate and am open to whatever is best for the advancement of Permaculture (hint hint wink wink Geoff if you are reading this: my land is your land if you have any desire to make it into a Permaculture research center ) or something else for the greater good.
P.S. sorry for any blundering and babbling as I am typing this with a great amount of pressure due to all the things that need done to this house and land. On that note the distribution box to the septic is broken and septic leach line system was noted by the health department that it could fail soon because the installer cut some corners. I had a deadline of today to fix the D-box but the inspector seemed kind and understanding. If anyone has an idea to a better system that would be great. Would like all the things i do from now on be with a Permaculture approach but I am so new to this I have no idea where to start. I imagine as long as i tell the inspector my plans to remedy the situation he will increase the time limit.
Thanks for your time believe me i know how valuable it is,
Anonymous wrote:We drink our rainwater, unfiltered and no chemicals added. Nothing tastes finer We're a family of four and all the locals do the same as we have no other source of water. Obviously we bathe in it too.
In rural Australia water tanks catching water from the roof is the norm. I get the feeling it is less common in the US for some reason.
does anyone know what types of roofs are common in rural Australia? I was considering drinking the water off our roof put we have asphalt shingle roof and was worried about the chemicals from it. Would this be a bad idea to do with this type of roof? If so is there a solution?
what do you think would be better use for long term heater: a perlite clay mix cast riser using a 8 inch duct for the inner diameter and putting a 7 inch and 6 inch pipe together to get a 13 inch duct for the outer diameter compared to half fire bricks set on there side and wrapped with the rock wool i linked?
So I have somewhat settled on my plans for the core. I have been somewhat back and forth on some ideas and was unsure which way I was going to build this which is why I had left alot of details out concerning my plans.
What I'm thinking of doing for the insulating factor of the core is I'm just going to dump sand around since it's too cold to make cob now. And when I get to the manifold I will form some cob to make that transition with a good seal.
I'm a bit nervous about working with cob since I haven't a lot of experience so I'm going to keep a close eye on the manifold or maybe just pour some concrete around it so I know it will stay sealed. I will run it full blast and take a temp reading of the manifold before I pour concrete around it to make sure the cob is thick enough that it doesn't get to hot for the concrete.
Do you know what temps concrete will do well under?
Glenn Herbert wrote:As short as your mass is, you would be much better served by a bell than a duct. The space formed by a 55 gallon barrel cut in half lengthwise and placed flat side down will give enough volume for the hot gases to linger and give up most of their heat. Connect the manifold exit to the bottom end of the half-barrel, and the chimney exit from the bottom of the other end of the half-barrel. The hot gases will rise and give up their heat, and only the coolest will sink and exit to the chimney.
You appear to have a good spacing under your core and mass to protect the floor from the heat.
Awesome!! Thanks for the quick response. I'm pressed on time which is why I'm going to continue with my original plan. Right now we are heating with kerosene 😕 I'm glad you think the space and insulation are sufficient. That was a big priority in my plans. What spacing between riser and barrel will get the best radiant heat from the barrel? I was considering the Peter batch box design and how the riser is nearly a barrel length shy from the top(technically bottom) of the top barrel. He said it was to give quicker heat into the area which is what I am looking for. I can't go that big because of the ceilings but was thinking of raising the barrel a few more inches or even a foot more than the recommended 2 inch gap. Thanks for all your help
So I was wondering if this was stupid. I think it was a good idea but obviously I'm asking because I rather hear from someone with more experience than me that it will be ok. I have two clean outs in this system and I pointed them both up because the mass though short and small compared to many will be a pebble style. I thought that would make an easier access and like the idea of having a couple hot spots to set water. Also was thinking of even connecting the two tees. The thought is to capture the hot gases and radiate heat from this inline loop. And as the gases cool they drop and be whooshed out by the secondary pump and the heat riser thermal syphon pushing it out. The primary reason I believe this will work is because my exhaust is so short and straight there will still be plenty of thrust in the system to move the cooled gases from the inline loop out of the chimney and terminate the home safely. Please let me know what you guys think. I'm kinda riding on the example of the way the Chinese heated there stone floors as shown in the cob mass heater DVD
Not sure what other details would be useful to you. Ummmm let's see. Ah ha...The manifold design I am attempting is a barrel stacked on top of another barrel that has been cut to fit just over the 48" riser. Will cut it to fit with a 2 inch gap between heat riser and barrel. Do you think that is a good gap between heat riser and barrel. The barrels will be connected together with the clamp that keeps the lid on. I am hoping to seal that with a fire place gasket. Would it be ok to use construction adhesive to hold that gasket in place when I put the barrels together. I figure it doesn't matter if it will continue to hold with those temps. I just want it to hold long enough to put the barrels together. For the manifold I was going to use one of the connections they use for the return air in HVAC ( rectangular on one side and fits pipe on other side, has a 90° turn also). is there a better connection you would suggest for an amateur. I am unskilled in the use of cob and masonry. I am a dryer vent technician so I feel very comfortable working with duct and have alot of tools for that material. But I am willing to do something different if it is suggested. Still hoping to have some great revelation for the manifold to deal with fly ash and CSA. Thank you for your help and time
Yes my plans were to heat the majority of the house with it. I didn't realise the six inch system wasn't enough. I'm really glad you told me. I was planning six because I had salvaged some six inch galvanized pipe that was about to be trash. But I would much rather spend the money to get 8 inch if it makes that great of a difference.
The chimney liner is metal and round. Not sure what you mean about it being inside or out. I don't believe it is exposed on the out side though it is on an exterior wall.
The crawl space has a cement block retaining wall installed all the way around the perimeter. The insulation is in "the belly" of the manufactured home. Which means it's attached to the under side of the home with a poly membrane. There is no added insulation to keep the crawl space from freezing. I don't know if it does freeze under there we just bought the place about a month ago. I kind of doubt it does since it is sealed off from the out side so well.
Ok it was suggested to me to document my progress here so here we go... bare with me as time is something i don't seem to have a lot of so pardon my crappy typing skills and lack of grammar and spelling. BTW "Grammarly" app is an awesome tool to cover the tracks of those who don't use proper English or spelling. So we just bought a double wide manufactured home 1700 square feet. i am planning to install a rocket mass heater in it near the kids bedrooms and kitchen in the living room. there is an existing chimney in that room that i will be exhausting through. i am planning on running a six-inch system. the chimney liner is 8 or ten inches so i will run the 6 inch pipe through the center of that chimney liner and pour perlite in the space between the two pipes to insulate the exhaust and prevent in competing air flow issues. for the floor i was planning on fastening three 2x8x12s together with 3-inch screws and four lag bolts and then sticking those perpendicular to the floor joists the span of the heater right down the center under the heater and bracing the support beam with cement block. will place solid blocks as footer dug down maybe a foot below the surface of the crawl space. there will be four of these support pillars spaced evenly apart. i am using the diagram out of the book for a six-inch system. the bench will be different though. the exhaust will be shorter than what's recommended to be on the safe side of back draft perimeters. i am using fireclay slip for the mortar joints of the fire box. using clay perlite mix for expansion joint around the firebox and then cob on top of that. the bench will be cob also. the whole unit will be lifted off of the floor to give a four-inch air gap using cheap bricks i bought from home depot spaced about 12 inches apart. next level from the floor will be four inches of perlite clay mix on top of 7/16 cement board used for tile installation. i was going to wrap the cement board with aluminum foil also to maybe give a lil extra help. this was a really important part of the planning for me. i want to be very sure that heat will not be reaching our wooden floor in most extreme conditions. that is all i can think right now and im getting ready to head out the door to go work on this right now as it is getting increasingly cold and our fireplace really SUCKS. please let me know any concerns if you would like to offer any advice i would be most grateful as this is my first build. im apprehesive to even say its my first build because i can imagine the ridicule i may recieve for doing it in my home. but i bought i fire extinguisher and carbon monoxide detecter and will be running under very close watch and will shut it down at the first site of danger. we are not living at this place yet either but will be soon. i will be happy to talk to anyone even on the phone if you would like. 5134649814 this is number i just set up specifically to recieve calls for this purpose. it will forward to my cell phone. please feel free to call any time before 11 oclock pm eastern time
Aaron Dailey wrote:I really want to build a rocket mass heater in our new home in the next week because weather is getting cold fast and i want to purchase this book so i can build a heater by following the advice of those who know better rather than trying to make one myself. the problem i have is i really would like the physical book for when i am doing the project it would be way better. but i was wondering if i purchased the physical book if i could have the pdf to study on til i get the book in the mail.
Hi Aaron, welcome to the forums! Don't worry about asking silly questions, we all have to start somewhere, and everyone's pretty friendly around here
To answer your question, I think what you would have to do is to buy the digital version and the digital version of the book - since it's intellectual property, you'd have to purchase it from the creators, Ernie and Erica. Honestly, if it were me, I'd sooner pay for expedited shipping than buy both the digital and physical versions - you may be throwing away money on shipping, but if your reasoning is that you want to study it asap, I would just spring for faster delivery
I hope that helps, and I definitely suggest started a thread in the rocket mass heater forum to document your progress and ask for feedback from the community, once you get started. You can also leave a review of the book here in this thread to help other people decide if they want to buy it.
Thank you for your response. Thats a great idea to post a new thread. im not to savvy with forums and dont have alot of extra time but i will try to do that and be as thorough as i can in documenting.
Hello, I apologize if my question is dumb. I just finished listining to a pod cast that talked about how annoyed you guys are by dumb questions and how annoying people are that ask questions that have already been asked. I really hope im not doing that right now. I have spent time in the forums but they are so vast and I am in a bit of a pinch. We have just bought some land with a house on it. The house does not have any heat except a fireplace and a furnace that is rated for half the size of the home. and the fireplace SUCKS the heat right out of the house. we were planning on moving our trailer to the property and living in it while we fixed the other up. well long story short is there have been a few setbacks and we are not going to be able to stay in our trailer that has heat. i really want to build a rocket mass heater in our new home in the next week because weather is getting cold fast and i want to purchase this book so i can build a heater by following the advice of those who know better rather than trying to make one myself. the problem i have is i really would like the physical book for when i am doing the project it would be way better. but i was wondering if i purchased the physical book if i could have the pdf to study on til i get the book in the mail. Thank you for your time and for all your guyses help with what you have made available in the forums. i have learned so much just by reading the forums but i dont feel confident enough to build my own RMH. would like to just have all the dimensions layed out for me to follow step by step.